PNjunction wrote: »
Wow - no offense, but this is pivotal and I have to use all caps:DO NOT FOLLOW THE VOLTAGES LISTED IN THAT LINK FOR YOUR LIFEPO'4S - THEY ARE FOR A DIFFERENT LI-ION CHEMISTRY
Once again, I'll point out a great REAL-WORLD thread that describes in great detail how to do it with the chemistry we ARE using:http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/lifepo4-batteries-discussion-thread-for-those-using-them-as-house-banks-65069.html
I can see that this has quickly devolved into a technical p*ssing match between real-world hands on, vs someone who doesn't actually own a bank of his own. Until you have one, all we'll end up doing is throwing links at each other, which does lurkers no good.
It is for this very reason, that most real-world users try to avoid armchair-engineering squabbles and eventually go silent. Although that might be to the relief of the crowd.
mcgivor said:@OffGridMarty This site http://nordkyndesign.com/assembling-a-lithium-iron-phosphate-marine-house-bank/ which is devoted to marine applications though the fundementals remain the same, I found to be very helpful when I began, it contains most of the information needed, well worth reading.
offgrid me wrote: »
For anybody that has a problem with an older Trace SW/SW+ or DR-series, contact this guy using his web form on his site:http://www.phantompowerservices.com/
He'll get it working again.
I think this is the one
Below is a list of companies that can repair the old Trace inverters.
I suggest Sunpumps.
Old black trace inverters
Northern Arizona Wind and Sun
Blackcherry04 wrote: »
Here are the parts you need, only you know if they are cost effective.http://inverterservicecenter.com/Inverters/Inverter-Repair-Parts/Xantrex-Repair-Parts/SW-5548
The problem is buying components is you don't know what the problem is and if one thing went bad what else did it take out. You buy it on a one way trip, if it's doesn't work you eat the cost. I'll take a new one with a warranty and sleep better.
greensolarelectric wrote: »
I repair/refurbish SMA Grid tie inverters. I offer a 6 month warranty on all repaired inverters. And i offer a 1 year warranty for a additional $50
Most repairs cost from $200-$600.
jclothi wrote: »
How did your situation work out, regarding the failed swr 2500? Did you find a repair service?
If not, I can help you. I am retired but I will help people (only) that are financially squeezed (and screwed by sma!) and simply will be unable to get back on line, otherwise. Why cant they understand that there is good will to be had in providing support? Anyone with your experience may be expected to never buy another sma product, huh!
jclothi -at- attglobal.net
Compuhans wrote: »
I have been repairing various solar inverters for people who had a inverter go bad that is out of warranty, usually they can be restored to where years of life are added to the unit.
I fix Sunnyboy 1800 2100 2500 3000 4000, Xantrex , Power One Aurora and PV powered ( and likely others if they came across my workbench)
Only in case of catastrophic burnout do I tell them to throw them out.
Contact Dean at abneysolarelectrix.com for SW & SW+ repair and testing, Oldest Trace repair center in the NW.
verdigo wrote: »
I found these old DOD videos on YouTube . I'm pretty sure I seen these in my Army days, and thought they might be useful for some here.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjYePMNOQXw [How AC Generators and Motors Work]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXQzUhORgKM [How DC Generators Work]
Specific Gravity vs Applications
1.285 Heavily cycled batteries such as for forklifts (traction).
1.260 Automotive (SLI)
1.250 UPS – Standby with high momentary discharge current requirement.
1.215 Geral applications such as power utility and telephone.
As mentioned earlier, the specific gravity (spgr.) of a fully charged industrial battery, or traction battery, is generally 1.285,
depending on the manufacturer and type. Some manufacturers use
specific gravities as high as 1.320 in an attempt to gain
additional Ah capacity, but at the cost of a shorter cycle life.
...Higher Gravity = vs Lower Gravity =
More capacity / Less capacity
Shorter life / Longer life
Higher momentary discharge rates / Lower momentary discharge rates
Less adaptable to "floating: operation / More adaptable to "floating" operation
More standing loss / Less standing loss
Specific gravity = single-cell open-circuit voltage - 0.845 (example: 2.13v – 0.845 = 1.285)OrSingle-cell open circuit voltage = specific gravity + 0.845.
The lighting & grip website has been
revamped, but I found the generator page. It's basically talking about
cheap inverter generators having square and mod sine output, and that
even PSW inverter and conventional generators, seeing strangely reactive
loads instead of "old style" restive loads, are unable to provide sine
waves and the loading distorts the waveform (much as I have experienced
with my new small robin/subaru/hatz genset) it's very interesting and
should be required reading.http://www.screenlightandgrip.com/html/emailnewsletter_generators.html#anchorSquare Wave Generators
Dave Angelini said:The arrays harvest need good static mpv and dynamic. There are plenty of cases where one controller fails to do this right. The article below was from 2010 when we were field testing the first 600v mppt. The shade tolerant feature was pretty amazing and it worked well in moving clouds.https://us.v-cdn.net/6024911/uploads/editor/37/fpqzmxmhly43.pdf
cow_rancher said:mike95490 said:I seasonally get iron in my water, and need to remove it before the main filtering. jonr said:You can oxidize (various chemicals or ozone or air) and then let it settle out in a holding tank. As jonr said, oxidation is the usual method i.e. bubblier in a storage tank with a pressure tank beyond that... "Main Filtering" what are you filtering out, whole house filters are normally not needed, they reduce the flow too much, and require maintenance. This is a Solar site so I see no conflict in sending you to another site https://pumpsandtanks.com/index.php , good unbiased experts there unlike another well known plumbing site, Speedbump is our resident expert and I own the site and won't try to sell you anything, besides I have nothing to sell.Rancher
mike95490 said:I seasonally get iron in my water, and need to remove it before the main filtering.
jonr said:You can oxidize (various chemicals or ozone or air) and then let it settle out in a holding tank.
Graham Parkinson said:Regarding UV LED disinfection:My dear Alma Mater, University of British Columbia, Physics Department has spun off a startup company called Acuva that markets 250-280 UV Led water treatment systems. Several of our off grid neighbours have also purchased these high quality, efficient units and we can recommend them:www.acuvatech.comAdvantages over traditional fluorescent tube UV sources include instant startup (using flow sensors), long life (no changing tubes every year) no need for solenoid flow interlocks to prevent untreated water flow during warmup, low standby draw (mA).If you use these units, that would reduce your need to expand your solar system!
Regarding UV LED disinfection:
My dear Alma Mater, University of British Columbia, Physics Department has spun off a startup company called Acuva that markets 250-280 UV Led water treatment systems. Several of our off grid neighbours have also purchased these high quality, efficient units and we can recommend them:
Advantages over traditional fluorescent tube UV sources include instant startup (using flow sensors), long life (no changing tubes every year) no need for solenoid flow interlocks to prevent untreated water flow during warmup, low standby draw (mA).
If you use these units, that would reduce your need to expand your solar system!
First: I will categorically state that almost every early Concorde battery failure that we see is from undercharging. Undercharging is the enemy and always has been forever. Undercharging can include too low of an Absorb voltage, too short of an Absorb time, too low of a charge rate and not reaching 100% SOC often enough. Way behind undercharging on the list is high temperature. Overcharging is rare to the point of being almost non-existent.
Second: It is MY opinion that Concorde has gradually ratcheted up their support of “conditioning” because customers are so afraid of “over charging” their batteries, that they undercharge them. MOST people do not read (or perhaps ignore) the fact that Concorde batteries must be charged at the Absorb voltage until they are only drawing one half of one percent of the battery bank C/20 rating. Simply put, 0.50 amps per 100 AH of battery capacity.
Dropping to Float before reaching this point is a form of undercharging and will cause sulfation. Their manual also provides suggested Absorb time settings to be used as a starting point to fine tune. Two hours is minimum for very shallow cycling and four hours for deeper cycling. Remember that “end amps” is the key and that lots of Float time brings strings into balance. We often read the internet megaphone about overcharging AGM’s. Think about a typical 1200 ah bank. At 100% SOC, the entire group of 24 batteries is only drawing 6 amps! I assure you that it will take a very long time to cook them. Especially when the sun goes down with great regularity.
There is much, much more to discuss, but I will say that if our battery banks are charged per the manufacturer’s instructions, equalizing is not required for the first 5-7 years. Yes, it is a slightly destructive process, but less so than sulfation!
OK that was wordy! But go ahead tell me what I missed!
I had a similar situation in 2017. My 2017 Aliner came with the Dometic 10.15k BTU Cool Cat air conditioner/heat pump. Dometic states that the locked rotation amps is 50.0 amps AC (120v). Running the Cool Cat required two Honda 2000 generators in parallel. I was able to measure the actual amp load over 3 test runs as requiring: Approx. 2 amps to start running the fan for about 30 seconds; then the compressor would start/surge to 44.1 amps (approx. 5300 watts peak for about 0.5 seconds); and then taper off to about 9 amps for the rest of the cycle. It would then drop to 2 amps on fan only until another cycle begins. My solution was a smart/soft start capacitor from MicroAir.net. I had it installed by my local RV shop (good thing too since the directions for my unit were wrong). It allows me to run my A/C with a single Honda 2000. It doesn't start as quickly but ramps up within 45-60 seconds. I wish I had know about this solution then - it would have saved me buying a second generator that I no longer need.
mcgivor said:Can't say for sure but it would appear that the cell is damaged if the voltage reading is zero, have you checked the meter on the other cells to prove it's working? One of the fundamental cautions when parallel connecting a number of cells is to ensure the voltage of all cells are within 0.005V (5mV) it is important to have a meter capable of measuring millivolts as 0.01V is not acceptable, meters will have a certain error some as much as 5-10% and that could represent a large difference in state of charge, When this caution is ignored the result is the balance of the cells will dump massive amounts of current, perhaps thousands of amps, into a single cell if it's state of charge is lower, which has the potential to cause a dangerous situation, or at very least just ruin the cell.Take the time to study extensively from sources other than You Tube, the video linked has misinformation not to mention bad practice, this link http://nordkyndesign.com/assembling-a-lithium-iron-phosphate-marine-house-bank/ is a good place to start but don't limit your education to a single source.