The input and Battery fuses on the Kid Controller are 40AMP....so I switched my 30A fuse between the controller and battery to 40AMPs...same result with overheating and the Kid failed. To answer Estragon:The Rebulk and absorb voltages were set to battery specs. I have a 3000 Watt GoPower inverter, and run two freezers on it. The freezers are rated at 5 and 7 amps respectively. Yes, 3 strings of 24V. Midnight Solar is sending me a new controller...and I am going to buy an automotive quality fuse to the batteries.Thank you for the inputs.
waynefromnscanada said:Re: Using 32V car fuses in 24V PV systemsIn my opinion a few volts won't make a lot of difference. I know of one case where they were used on a 1Hp 240 VAC motor that didn't have internal overload protection. Added after having motor re-wound several times. After that, only the fuse blew if the motor got stalled. That said, the current was already limited to what the windings would pass before burning up. On a more serious note, I nearly had a fire with the combination of one of those 30A fuses and it's plug in holder, where there was continuous 20A or so current. Seems a resistance built up between the fuse blade and the holder clip. Melted the holder, blackened the fuse leg, ate part of the blade away with arcing, still the fuse didn't blow! When I found it by accident when checking voltages and discovering a drop where there shouldn't have been any, the whole mess was welded together. Had to cut it open to see what had happened. After that, I soldered the wires directly to the fuse blades and have had no more problem. Used to have similar electrical problems with 12 volt motorbike systems years ago, at points where the wires were crimped into connectors. Just something to consider.
I think I'm going to buy an Outback FlexMax 60 and abandon trying to use Midnite Solar products....Thoughts?