solar panel out put conversion to amps

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Comments

  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    Thanks I said it is an in line fuse but it is actually a 30amp inline breaker
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    These are what I have for a breaker
  • mcgivormcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 2,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Do you have a link to the specifications? 
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery bank 
    900W  3 × 300W No name brand Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah FLA 24V nominal as a backup system. 
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergencies and welding.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    No I was looking on line but nothing (except they say 12v)  I use them now but I am only putting about 15v through them. When I go to series I could be putting close to 60v through them on the input side that is my concern will they handle the higher voltage???
  • mcgivormcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 2,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If only rated for 12V, I would highly suggest looking into something rated for the appropriate voltage, the picture appears to be an automotive type circuit breaker, there are much better alternatives, such as Midnight, as an example, don't cheap out on protection, it can cost more by saving money...such as lives, be safe
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery bank 
    900W  3 × 300W No name brand Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah FLA 24V nominal as a backup system. 
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergencies and welding.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    I know your right so I will look into breakers I am spending $700CDN for a new Outback FM60 so I do want it protected.Is there a box out there I can buy and add a circuit breaker to the input side before the controller? I may be able to use the inline ones I have now on the output side as the voltage going to the batteries shouldn't be any higher that say 15v-16v when I equalize my batteries. Am I correct in my thinking?
  • mcgivormcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 2,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 2018 #38
    As mentioned, Midnight has all that is required to make a safe installation, by no means am I promoting their product, in fact I have nothing produced by them, but they are an excellent resource who deals in solar related products, visit their website 
    http://www.midnitesolar.com/
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery bank 
    900W  3 × 300W No name brand Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah FLA 24V nominal as a backup system. 
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergencies and welding.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    mcgivor what do you think of this I can buy it here in Canada. I was thinking a 10amp or 16amp on the plus side into my FM60 and a 40 amp going to my Battery. 
  • jonrjonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭✭
    edited March 2018 #40
    > Am I correct in my thinking?

    If your thinking is to use a 12VDC rated breaker at 15-16VDC, I would say no - do it right.    On the other hand, 12V nominal in the automotive world often means up to 15-16V.    I see similar breakers rated at 24V and these would certainly be OK.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    No here is what I meant to post in previous post  https://solarenergydc.com/collections/types?q=Electrical Parts
    I was thinking a 10amp or 16amp on the plus side into my FM60 and a 40 amp going to my Battery.  These are rated for 250 VDC


  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 8,068 ✭✭✭✭✭

    i took a midnight 6pos combiner box, cut the buss bar in half for 3, PV channels and used the extra spaces for other breakers. Some may say don't mix PV & battery in same box, but if you are neat about it, why not.
    the dingus in the lower right is a midnight surge suppressor.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • EstragonEstragon Registered Users Posts: 3,127 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @mike95490 - I have pv and 48v battery in an e-panel, which is really just a bigger box. I have 12v pv and battery in a big baby box, which is definitely just a box.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    Thank you what size breaker should I use into my FM60 MPPT and out to my Batteries? 420 watts in series to MPPT controller.I was thinking 15 amps in and 40 amps out to Batteries.
  • Raj174Raj174 Solar Expert Posts: 650 ✭✭✭✭
    @rake1
    It depends on the wire size. The breaker protects the wire and the wire size is determined by the maximum current calculated for the connection. In practice we use the largest wire that is practical. For example you may use a #8 wire minimum from the charge controller to the battery at 35 amps, but a #4 would be recommended to keep voltage loses to a minimum. A 45 to 50 amp breaker will be sufficient for wire protection in either case. The inverter and loads are unknown so can't determine that one.

    Rick 
    3600W PV, MNE175DR-TR epanel modified, MN Classic 150, Outback Radian GS4048A, Mate3, 54.4V 207AH LiFePO4 no BMS, 4500W genset.
  • EstragonEstragon Registered Users Posts: 3,127 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is also the circuitry and connections in the controller itself to consider in breaker sizing. Personally, I'd go with the largest wire that will physically fit in the controller to minimize voltage drop, and size the breaker based on controller manufacturers recommendation.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • PhotowhitPhotowhit Solar Expert Posts: 4,782 ✭✭✭✭
    rake1 said:
    All panels are close to the same VMP 22.38, 21.9,  22.4  IMP 7.03, 7.54, 9.02   125w 135w and 160w MONO Distance from array to battery bank about 40 ft. Battery bank voltage is 12 volt Temperature range of location winter -15 max summer maybe 90F the od day, but average maybe 80F.

    You are reading your panels info incorrectly, Your panels voltage is likely VOC rather than VMP, Don't know if you are doing the same with your IMP. If you were correct your smallest panel would be 21.9 volts x 7.03 amps = 154 watts.

    Your current running through the string will be limited by your weakest panel. so basically your maximum potential array capacity will be 3x your smallest panel of 375 watts.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Prosine 1800 and Exeltech 1100, 660 ah 24v ForkLift battery. Off grid for @16 of last 17 years. Assorted other systems, and to many panels in the closet to not do more...lol
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    Dam your right I had a pic and the whole thing and still read it wrong VMP 17.9,17.9 and 17.8 VOC 22.38,21.9 and 21.6 IMP 7.54,7.03 and 8.94 (135w 125w and 160w
  • jonrjonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭✭
    edited March 2018 #49
    3x smallest panel watts isn't exactly accurate - because when you operate a panel at less than Imp, the voltage of that panel rises.   So it's closer to (an example, I don't have the curves):   18.5x7.03 + 17.9x7.03 + 20x7.03 =  396 watts (vs 125x3 = 375w or parallel ~= 125+135+160 = 420w).  And even this isn't right since a MPPT won't pick the lowest current (7.03 in this case) but something higher (Imp is not a limit).
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    Interesting thank you So I am still trying to figure out the breaker into the MPPT and the breaker out to Batts. As mentioned I was thinking 10 amp-16amp in and 40 amp out what does everyone think.
  • EstragonEstragon Registered Users Posts: 3,127 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The maximum breaker size for the series string should be listed on the panel spec label.  15a is typical  The controller output breaker size should be specified in the controller installation manual.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • jonrjonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭✭
    15A and 50A sounds right for worse case conditions plus de-rating - assuming the wires can handle more.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    Yea I was thinking 15amp in and 40 amps out to Batteries. My FM60 can put out 60 amps but 420 watts I believe I will be maxed at around 30 to 35 amps
  • jonrjonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭✭
    420W/10.5V = 40A.  50A with de-rating.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    jonr where do you get the 10.5v from
  • jonrjonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭✭
    From the lowest voltage that the battery terminal might be.
  • rake1rake1 Solar Expert Posts: 170 ✭✭
    Got ya that is what I thought you meant thanks
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