Solving a bad battery connection on a car.
softdown
Solar Expert Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭✭
This battery was disconnected for three years and charged on a regular basis. Its health is still acceptable.
Reconnected and found that I needed to scrub/sand/clean the positive connection every time I sought to start it. And it got worse each time. Had to scrub/sand/clean it after it sat for ONE hour.
Now no amount of scrubbing/sanding/cleaning will create a connection that allows the engine to turn over. Though radio etc have always worked fine.
I’ve never dealt with this phenomena. Seems very odd. Anybody know what is likely happening?
First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
Comments
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Sounds like the Battery is going weak/failing... And mostly starting on battery surface charge(?).
I have a daily driver car with a ~5 year old battery... Getting weak, but still starts car (mild climate, San Francisco area).
A pickup that had a 6-7 year old battery that was hardly driven, but on full time maintenance charge with this charger:
https://www.batteryminders.com/2012-12-volt-desulfating-battery-charger-worldwide-use
Has a "desulfating mode" that seemed to work OK--Although, I would not push desulfator vs just getting a good quality "float" charger.
Have several Battery Minders of this type, and one did fail after 5+ years--Second and third are still going fine.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Seems logical. We’ll see how it responds to a truly full charge. If that works - time for a new battery!First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
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Truly full charge made no difference. Recently tested ~600CCA which should be plenty for a 302CID engine. Guess I’ll try a different battery still.First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
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Did you clean the cable end too? Probably you did, but you didn't mention it.Sol-Ark 12, 3 Pytes V5 100ah batteries, currently six REC 420w panels installed. Ten more panels waiting to be installed.
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It sounds like the battery itself may still be fine, but the positive terminal or cable likely has internal corrosion or damage that’s causing a high-resistance connection under load. That’s why small things like the radio work, but the moment the starter needs real current, the connection fails even after cleaning. Often the corrosion travels inside the cable under the insulation, so it looks clean on the outside but can’t carry amperage. At this point the best move is to replace the positive cable or terminal entirely, because if cleaning no longer restores a solid connection, the metal is probably too compromised to reliably carry starter current.
Exploring renewable energy for remote travel & eco-tourism.
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I had a “high end” stereo installer wire up a second battery for my truck. It failed miserably due to the fact that the installer used CCA cable instead of pure copper.I learned to do all of my own wiring after that.Off-Grid in Terlingua, TX
5,000 watt array - 14 CS 370 watt modules. HZLA horizontal tracker. Schneider: XW6048NA+, Mini PDP, MPPT 80-600, SCP. 390ah LiFeP04 battery bank - 3 Discover AES 42-48-6650 48 volt 130ah LiFePO4 batteries
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