Why do east facing panels really outperform west facing?
Panels follow roof contours. House is not exactly south facing. Pretty close.
Southern array performs great except for summer months. Panels at 42 degrees to maximize winter production.
East and west panels at 10 degrees. Racks were included with main south facing racks. Free.
The west panels are simply 180 degrees from east panels.
I never get more than 8.5 amps from three 5.2 amp panels at high, sunny location. West Side disappointment.
37 degrees latitude.

Comments
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Temperature. Unless they are covered with ice or snow. Then they are about the same.Off Grid. Two systems: 1) 2925w panels, OB VFXR3648, FM80, FNDC, Victron BMV-712, Mate3s, 240 xformer, four SimpliPHI 3.8; 2) 780w, Morningstar 30a, Grundfos switch, controller and AC/DC pump, 8 T105. Honda EU7000is w/AGS. Champion 3100. HF 4550, Miller Bobcat.
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Looks like you have plenty of room for a ground mount that faces south.
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For several days I had not production from the westerly panels at all. Bad MC4 connection going to the wires going to the CC. Messed around with it and got power. But unsatisfactory power.
Could a poor hand made MC4 connection be lowering production by about 50% or so?First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries -
If 3x parallel wiring, then one bad connection will kill output by 50%.In general, a bad connection will overheat, burn the connector, and or melt the contact housing.Connectors don't have the ability to dissipate waste heat without damage (unless current flow is very low).-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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BB. said:If 3x parallel wiring, then one bad connection will kill output by 50%.In general, a bad connection will overheat, burn the connector, and or melt the contact housing.Connectors don't have the ability to dissipate waste heat without damage (unless current flow is very low).-Bill3X serial wiring. It does seem like production is at ~50%.~126 volts.I could point a remote thermometer gun at the connections I would think.First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
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This is frustrating. Are you too old to keep doing this stuff?
A thermo gun on a hot roof during production?Off Grid. Two systems: 1) 2925w panels, OB VFXR3648, FM80, FNDC, Victron BMV-712, Mate3s, 240 xformer, four SimpliPHI 3.8; 2) 780w, Morningstar 30a, Grundfos switch, controller and AC/DC pump, 8 T105. Honda EU7000is w/AGS. Champion 3100. HF 4550, Miller Bobcat. -
I do have a typo there... Intended to type 2x for 1 open connection giving you 50% harvest...
Since you have parallel connections... Open a breaker per string or cover a couple panels, etc.. and see how much the output drops per string.... They should all drop equally, if connections (and panels) are OK.
You could also get an AC+DC Current Clamp meter and measure the current of each string -- Again looking for equal current flow if all OK.
Lastly, how do you "know" that your output is down by 50%... From what I have seen over the years (with my Grid Tied System), the "nominal" current flow is proportional to amount of light hitting panels (pretty close to actual sun--i.e., if sun is down by 50% do to clouds, shading, etc., then current is down by equal amount).
Also, need to be more specific if your are 50% of Power (Watts=V*I), voltage, or current... Seeing 50% to 70% of Watts is pretty much standard derating from "Standard" to "real life" solar performance.
Parallel strings--Then variation in voltage can change current flow dramatically (I.e., 2x strings at "normal voltage" and one string with a bad panel/shading at less than normal, and current fall dramatically).
You have a battery based system... Also array harvest is based on on both available sun, and controller "needs" (battery state of charge, loading, etc.)... Obviously, this is not a "single variable" equation.
Which is why I suggest the per string measurements of current first (by shading or current clamp meter). If all are equal current (parallel strings to a single controller), then more than likely "all is normal".
If you have one poor performing string, then you need to do things like disconnect/shad the 2x good strings, and measure voltage/current of the poor performing string. Likely lower voltage is possibly a bad panel. Near zero voltage would be a bad connection, etc. Then per panel tests (voltage/current shorted/into test load, etc.). Again looking for comparison with "known good performing panel vs questionable panel").
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
That’s a pretty detailed setup! Sounds like you’ve optimized for winter performance nicely. Any plans to tweak the west array to boost output, or are you keeping it as-is for balance?
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Yes I seek to boost production from the west facing panels.cleancurrent002 said:That’s a pretty detailed setup! Sounds like you’ve optimized for winter performance nicely. Any plans to tweak the west array to boost output, or are you keeping it as-is for balance?
Hence the thread.
First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries -
MaybeJRHill said:This is frustrating. Are you too old to keep doing this stuff?
A thermo gun on a hot roof during production?First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries -
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I like Bill's suggestion that the battery may be at a better SOC in the afternoon, thus demanding less power from the PV.Does the PV output increase if you introduce a large load in the afternoon?By all means, test the current flow in the west PV leads to see if they are equal.Sol-Ark 12, 3 Pytes V5 100ah batteries, currently six REC 420w panels installed. Ten more panels waiting to be installed.
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Off Grid. Two systems: 1) 2925w panels, OB VFXR3648, FM80, FNDC, Victron BMV-712, Mate3s, 240 xformer, four SimpliPHI 3.8; 2) 780w, Morningstar 30a, Grundfos switch, controller and AC/DC pump, 8 T105. Honda EU7000is w/AGS. Champion 3100. HF 4550, Miller Bobcat.
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Mike will take care of your roof mount problems.
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The west facing panels are now almost useless it seems. Could be that it is because the batteries are now fully charged by ~11am. Or it could be that east and west panels perform poorly during the cold months once a certain latitude is reached. They should still be fine closer to the equatorial latitude region.I keep seeing ~ 1 amp total from the three western panels. Almost useless. Again, the batteries are fully charged pretty early.First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
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If your batteries are fully charged you can at least benefit From your loads being covered by the West facing panels
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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My west facing panels slightly outperform the east facing. I believe its on average weather related.

23.16kW Kyocera panels; 2 Fronius 7.5kW inverters; Nyle hot water; Steffes ETS; Great Lakes RO; Generac 10kW w/ATS, TED Pro & Emporia System monitoring -
East-facing panels usually look like they outperform west-facing ones because of how solar production lines up with real-world conditions, not because the panels themselves are better.
In most locations, mornings are cooler and clearer, so panels operate more efficiently and produce cleaner power earlier in the day. In the afternoon, when west-facing panels should shine, you often get higher temperatures, haze, or cloud buildup, all of which reduce output. Heat alone can knock a noticeable chunk off panel efficiency.
There’s also the usage and system side of it. Many systems start the day with empty batteries or higher demand, so east-facing panels immediately get “used,” while west-facing panels may be producing when batteries are already full or the inverter is limiting output.
So east panels don’t actually make more energy overall in a perfect lab scenario—but in real life, cooler mornings, weather patterns, and system limits often make them appear to outperform west-facing panels.
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My system has two panel banks one facing southeast and the other southwest. As you'd expect, the southeast bank does the heavy lifting on the summer but is hobbled by trees once late September arrives. A possible plan will be to reorient the southeast bank to due south as in its present orientation I don't get full sun until about 12:30pm.Island cottage solar system with approximately 2300 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 32nd year.
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