Supply for 60 amp shore power connection

In general, all major metal objects should be tied together with green wire ground bonding (frames, gas and water plumbing, electrical boxes and conduit, etc.). This is the common method for safety grounding. And allowing the use of breakers only on the "hot leads" of a battery bank/AC wiring (sine wave/utility power with common return wire/neutral bonding). There are various grounding/shorting/failure modes where a single breaker on the "hot or positive" wiring and no over current protection on the return wires (negative, AC neutral), can cause over current and over heating of return wiring.

Earth grounding (ground rod, ground plates, etc.) are, more or less, for lightning and static charge grounding. If you have no lightning in the area and no tall insulated metal structures (antenna masts, solar panels with frames, etc.)... You can get way without earth ground connection (i.e., mobile equipment, RVs, cars, etc.).

Earth grounds are generally not "great" electrical connections (25 Ohms is NEC minimum resistance for a "good" ground connection). Earth grounding does not really play a big role in "safety grounding" other than lightning and static charge dissipation.

If you have, for example, AC power (or battery) going from your house to an out building/well pump, and such--You put local ground rod/plate at the building, and run a 6 AWG (12 AWG-14 AWG can be used) from the the outbuilding ground rod back to the main ground rod at the home. This ties the two together electrically and will allow a short circuit from AC hot to ground at the out building to shunt current back to the source (main home panel) and trip the panel breaker.

If you do not run a heavy copper ground wire from the out building back to the main home ground--You run the risk of (for example) a Hot to metal electrical box short energizing the box with rspect to ground. The 25 ohm ground rod connection to earth does not pass enough current to trip the source breaker (120 VAC / 25 Ohms = 4.8 amps-- Not near enough to trip a 15 amp panel breaker--Leaving the metal "ground to ground rod" objects electrified with respect to other grounds--I.e., electrical box "hot" with respect to well casing).

There are other reasons for earth bonding (the earth ground is the other half of a typical radio/transmitter antenna, some florescent tube fixtures "start" better when chassis is grounded, certain flame detection circuits on spark ignition stoves do not work if not neutral bonded to earth ground)--But for most people, these are 3rd level grounding issues.

I am not very worried about bringing a 6 AWG ground wire from a remote ground rod to the main ground rod of a home bringing in lightning energy into the home. Lightning energy will only follow a 6 AWG 10-20 feet or so--Past that, it will find a different path to earth (higher "impedance" to high frequency current flow).

What I suggest not doing--For example, the green wire ground (and even the +/- from the array from your roof mounted solar panel brought down into the middle of the home. This is bringing lightning energy into your home. Run the solar ground directly on the outside wall down to the ground rod (outside the foundation of the wall). The +/- array enters the home through a metal transition box on the side of the home (with surge supressors if you are in lightning prone area, metal box grounded to ground rod). This provides a path for lightning to earth ground without going into your home (high frequency current--including lighting strike energy--always want to go as far away from the center because of the generated magnetic field). One example of this is the "skin effect" of AC current flow--The current wants to flow in the "skin" of the wiring.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect

There are a lot of rules for all of this--Lightning and safety is a very complex subject. The above is just a 50,000 foot view of the very basics. There are times when NEC and Good Lightning Control guidelines are in a bit of opposition.

-Bill

RVs actually become a bit complicated if you want to follow the "AC ground bonded neutral" standard. When plugged into the AC mains at the home/trailer park, the Neutral Bond is done at the main AC panel outside the RV. When running from internal Generator or AC inverter, the ground bonded neutral is done by the local RV itself (the genset may provide the AC neutral bonding and/or the AC inverter may provide the Neutral Bonding). Typically a transfer switch/relay or two is used to implement the AC neutral bonding when AC power is transferred from external to internal AC power.

A good way to reduce the chances of shock (for AC power) is to use GFI protected outlets.

-Bill

A GFI outlet is a good safety measure--If you have a MSW (modified square/sine wave AC inverter), it is possible that you will get false trips with a GFI (the MSW waveform can cause the false trip of the GFI).

One GFI outlet can be wired directly to the inverter output/first outlet on the branch circuit, and you can connect the wiring from that GFI output terminals to the rest of the outlets and you will get GFI protection on all of those downstream outlets too.

I suggest you do not use one GFI outlet (or GFI breaker) to protect all AC wiring if you have AC lights and outlets. If you trip the one GFI, it will plunge you into darkness. Two GFI circuits, one for outlet(s), and a second for AC lighting, will leave the lights on if an outlet trips.

The Wizbang Jr. shunt, as far as I know, is designed to integrate only with some Midnite solar charge controllers. The Wizbang has a digital data output and (at the present time?) does not integrate into any stand alone battery monitors/other brands of charge controllers (the shunt is a standard unit--It is the analog to digital converter board that makes it a Midnite only device).

Regarding the 70 amp breaker--Looks like it will be fine. As always, read the instructions/specifications for the breaker. Sometimes they have limitations (must mount on vertical surface) or other requirements that you can trip across.

-Bill