I suggested no diodes for a 12 volt system...i dunno what to tell you guys because ive seen an increase in my voltage since i installed them. Voltage i need to charge the last 30% of the battery. ( it was my initial problem for this thread, i couldnt get past 12.4) If you rememver the panels were facing SE and had them at 21° which was a mistake since im in the forest. Ill add pictures of what we built today. Now all 32cells are facing full south at 45° and are on hinges so I can bring them to 68° during summer.I just need to figure out what to do with the 36cells 100w. I like to keep it butbi read on an other thread it might not be a good idea to have a panels facing annother direction
I am available for custom hardware/firmware development
If you have an increase in voltage with the diodes, you may have a very leaky panel.Or it just got a way lot colder outside. Actually, it could could be possible to solve this problem in the summer and use a PWM with a cheap ebay boost or buck converter. Depends if the panels are in series or not. Set the output voltage to the maximum voltage needed to charge the batteries. This would only be a couple volts more. I'm doing this right now heating water from a 30V panel to 80V on a water heater at power point. I've been going to write a how to making any cheap PWM controller into one that performs nearly as well as a MPPT model for only a $10 outlay.
NANOcontrol Seeing and believing. I dunno what you mean but it works while it didnt before i do those changes. Was cloudy af again today and made it to 13.4v. I couldnt even get past 12.4 then.Dont worry brother i tested them before buy them last summer. All in parallel, added a blocking diode to each one
You still want to get (ideally) closer to 14.75 volts (~75F), or at a minimum of >14.2 volts for multiple hours per day (several time a week).-Billyeah but it was cloudy today all day. Even then i managed to go from 12.3 to 12.7v(after few hours of dark) battery is full at least an wont freeze or sulphate. Thats pretty good for a cloudy day in the forest.when im lucky enough to have a couple hours of real sun it will reach 14.2 14.5 for 2 hours then go back down to 13.7. But roght now without the 100w, it doesnt quite do it but im going to install it soon. I just re installed the 32cells 3 days ago and wanted to see how it went before investing more time. I installed a blocking diode on the 100w and gonna mount soon. Renogy wanderer has 3 stage charge bulk, boost and float. Plus equalization every 28days.Manual doesnt give voltage to expect but so far i figured that the float/bulk is 13.1 to 13.7v. The boost would be the 14.1 to 14.7v. And equalization 15 over. Has to be said that Im running on the 130ah battery alone for now. If all the modification are a success I will put back the 210ah bank. Hopefully i will find an other 48w next summer for cheap to fill the 400wmp on the charge controller (1x 100w plus 5x 48w = 340w at the moment ) and get a better C-rate on my system.
Read post #73 again, your batteries are not fully charged, the voltage needs to be higher, 13.7V is not a bulk value, it's a float voltage in cold climates at best, you are destroying your batteries, if they ate not reaching 14.7V daily if discharged overnight. This point has been mentioned multiple times, if you don't get them fully charged, they are doomed, textbook chronic undercharging.
What are the specific gravity, SG readings ? That will reveal the truth, voltage is a poor method of estimating state of charge, a battery that has little to no capacity left, can still have voltage which appears good. Do you have a hydrometer? an essential tool when using flooded batteries.