I need help please. Emergency R&R SI6048

Trukinbear · October 2020

I've got a problem. I've got an SMA Sunny Island SI6048 that has been replaced under warranty... well, the replacement is here, I've got to do the actual removal and replacement. I really need to be able to R&R this unit with everything else in situ, and will be in the dark for the duration of this process.

It is mounted, hanging on a hook attached to a MidNite Solar backplate with a matching MidNite Solar E-panel below and two MidNite Classic 250V charge controllers to the left. Installation was - the plate went to the wall, the hook (SMA's plate) went to the plate, the SI6048 was hefted (it's 143 pounds) up onto the hook by two really big dudes who don't work for me. Then the E-panel was mounted below the Si-6048 and wired in, along with the 2 charge controllers. Attached to the conduit, to a box, and passthru to the outside panel.

I as you can probably well imagine, don't want to do this in the reverse order unless I really, really have to. I need to figure a way to R&R the SI6048 without removing/unhooking (except the inverter/charger) the E-panel. I asked MidNite Solar (in their forum) and was told they put a 2x6 between the inverter/charger and the E-panel, but I guess they forgot they built this with .5MM clearance minimum and along the sides an average of 1.5MM above what might as well be a knife-edge when you are talking 143# above it - a real finger amputation hazard.

That leaves the two handle-etts up top in the vents, and maybe the front lip of the bottom of the inverter/charger but I'd rather have it hefted into place with the cover on, so scratch that... maybe a nylon strap under it and some D-rings?

Does anybody have an idea?
I need help, the clock it ticking for the return of the old unit (still in use) to SMA or I'll owe for the new one - less than 2 weeks left.

Thanks in advance!
Bear

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6024911/uploads/editor/t6/dtowcfbijnnm.jpg

Trukinbear · October 2020

Hmmm, I wonder if removing that top front plate on the E-panel might provide enough clearance for a couple of hands?

Vic · October 2020

Trukn,

From the pics, it is not really to get a picture of what is above the Si.

Could you use a lever hoist, block and tackle, connected to something above the Si, like some ceiling member. Use a strap under the Si, to connect to the lifting device, or, possibly a ratchet strap to do the lifting, too ... I do not (or, perhaps cannot) see what is the big deal.

There must be site-specific things that are an impedance (?).

Back to the woodwork. Good Luck, Vic

Trukinbear · October 2020

Nothing above to lift from. My issue is the lack of clearance with the bottom panel. It went up with 2 big dudes who could get under it, this way (up and down) will have to be via the 2 handles at the top which are 6' above the floor. A hand underneath would lose fingers, I was thinking maybe 3 feet of 3-inch strap and some 'D' rings might give them something lower to lift with. IDK I don't see how unless I find a couple of NBA draftees this is going to work, has to go straight up to above the E-panel, out in front of the E-panel, then go to the wall 6+' up, and straight down. Either way I've got to pay these guys for travel time (we're remote) and a couple of hour minimum. If they drop it, as they say - I'm el screwd-o.

Trukinbear · October 2020

Lifting by the upper handles from the floor to over 6 feet up would seem to involve some sort of maneuver in the middle.

Trukinbear · October 2020

Along the sides, you can see that gap is no larger than the machine screw head in the photo, and at one point you can just barely see light thru the gap. Next to that, you could almost get something under it, but if you notice the bottom of the Sunny Island is curved downwards almost touching the upper cross-member of the E-panel. The one coming down I don't mind them doing it with the cover off which might give them some small handhold in the front, but the big yellow cast aluminum cover that I really want to be in place before anybody so much as touches the new one curves to follow that curve at the bottom into the E-panel. The E-panel would not safely support the weight of this unit should it miss the hook, and they have no room just to come up from the bottom until they just passed the hook - this way they've got to pass the hook some 12-18" away from it then go horizontally over to the wall, and down to the hook. I'm just having trouble visualizing how two people will do this.

Trukinbear · October 2020

Going up without the E-panel it was a simple clean and jerk, with the unit against the wall/plate, and the two guys squatted, stood up then got under it and hefted it above the hook. The clearance is too tight to put it on the hook while at an angle allowing 4 hands underneath then letting it swing to the wall, this will have to go to the wall and down.

Trukinbear · October 2020

It all fits closely together. The countertop to the right removes with three latches and serves as the cosmetic portion of the cover for the battery some 30ish inches out of frame to the right.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6024911/uploads/editor/qu/whost9r2fsi6.jpg

littleharbor2 · October 2020

I know that the grid tie models this size allow you to slip a pipe through the vent holes and it becomes a double handle. still need a couple people unless you are really strong.

mcgivor · October 2020

You could use wooden wedge shims, the kind found at hardware stores used when installing door frames, keep adding and tapping into the gap until the hook is cleared, that will take care of the dead weight narrow access problem.

Trukinbear · October 2020

mcgivor said:

You could use wooden wedge shims, the kind found at hardware stores used when installing door frames, keep adding and tapping into the gap until the hook is cleared, that will take care of the dead weight narrow access problem.

Thanks, I'm afraid my real issue will be in the other direction - installation of the new one.

mcgivor · October 2020

Then reverse the process put sufficient shims on top of the e panel to clear the hook then remove them slowly to lower whilst someone maintains pressure against the back plate. This is something I've done when installing motor control centers to align bolt holes.

Trukinbear · October 2020

mcgivor said:

Then reverse the process put sufficient shims on top of the e panel to clear the hook then remove them slowly to lower whilst someone maintains pressure against the back plate. This is something I've done when installing motor control centers to align bolt holes.

The E-panel is affixed to the backplate with 4-#8 sheet metal screws and itself weighs over 50#, I wouldn't trust it with another 143# on it, and if it fails it has all kinds of potential for calamity, not to mention was over $1000 and has another $1500 in electronics inside of it.

mcgivor · October 2020

The shear strenth of 4 #8 screws is ~400 lbs. enough of a safety margin I would think.

Trukinbear · October 2020

And the strength of the self tapped screw holes in the mild steel backplate? I appreciate your suggestions, but at that point I'd have right around half my annual income, and my fingers on the line. I think the E-panel would fold like origami - 143 pounds on those two little thin blades of sheet metal, IDK.

mike95490 · October 2020

Any way to thread rope thru the vent holes on the top, and hang it from ceiling ?

or, install 2 of the front cover strews, with big washers, and a cable and hang it from 2 screws ? The look possibly too small, and I might go with trying to thread rope thru the chassis - maybe use a giant 2' long zip tie as a probe to fish the rope thru with ? Any internal parts that might get ripped off a PCB when the rope tightens up ?

mcgivor · October 2020

Trukinbear said:

And the strength of the self tapped screw holes in the mild steel backplate? I appreciate your suggestions, but at that point I'd have right around half my annual income, and my fingers on the line. I think the E-panel would fold like origami - 143 pounds on those two little thin blades of sheet metal, IDK.

Definitely not a one man job, perhaps it would be better to remove the E panel to gain better access as shortcuts often slow you down and you don't want to injure your fingers or back for that matter.

wellbuilt · October 2020

I used a bucket and 2 small step ladders to hang my out back flex power one by my self .

Lifted the whole unit on to the bucket , then up to a 3’ step ladder then on a 4 ‘ ladder and pushed it to the wall
I used 4 small lag bolts in to 3/4 ply wood to hold it .

My out back weights 100 lbs +

Trukinbear · October 2020

I've removed as many obstacles as possible, fashioned a lifting bar to thread thru the top, and have 3 guys showing up at 3 tomorrow. Wish me luck - I'll take pictures.

littleharbor2 · October 2020

Trukinbear said:

I've removed as many obstacles as possible, fashioned a lifting bar to thread thru the top, and have 3 guys showing up at 3 tomorrow. Wish me luck - I'll take pictures.

So does a 3/4" or similar pipe fit through the vent area as I suggested? The inner louvres look a bit different than a grid tie version.

BB. · October 2020

Best of luck and take care.

-Bill

Trukinbear · October 2020

Ready to shut down as soon as I'm sure my guys aren't no-shows!

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6024911/uploads/editor/4d/k37gymarlw61.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6024911/uploads/editor/o9/gbxuvjwy0ij5.jpg

Trukinbear · November 2020

Whew, finally over and just in time as darkness falls. For the system shutdown, we used this opportunity to fully test the Rapid Shutdown System - it disconnected the solar panels, turned off the generator, turned off the Inverter/Charger, and disconnected everything from the 986Ah 48V battery well within the 30 seconds required. After I turned off the voice announcements it made noises that sounded like a zombie gasping for air every few minutes until everything leveled out - kinda disconcerting until you figure out where it's coming from.

I need help please. Emergency R&R SI6048

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