Outback Inverter Tripping

Tess
Tess Registered Users Posts: 1 ✭
in Off Grid Solar & Battery Systems #1
I have a new offgrid solar system. I created a 48 volt battery bank using 4 each, 100Ah, LiFePO4 Battle Born batteries wired in serial. I'm using an Midnight Solar epanel stretch for Outback equipment. The epanel uses a 175 Amp battery shut off for inverter (MNEDC175) for my configuration of Outback VFXR3648A Inverter/charger and FX80 Charge Controller. My battery bank is 9ft from epanel with 2/0 cable. In the middle of the 9 ft run I have wired a 48v battery switch which honestly doesn't appear very sturdy. 
My Charge Controller functions fine, displays about 53v for the battery bank and all the connections up to the 175 amp battery shut off are testing at 48 volts nominally. The Charge Controller will continue to function normally until I turn on the 175 Amp switch opening the connection to the inverter. Then everything goes dark. I can turn back on the Charge Controller again and it will function normally again until I switch back on the Inverter. The inverter during these tests has no loads. It doesn't appear the inverter stays on long enough to register errors in my Mate 3s.
Also, this shutoff of the inverter and subsequently the charge controller happens whether the PV array is on and feeding the charge controller or not.
I have replaced the battery switch for the battery on the positive battery connection and upgraded the bus bar for the negative to a stronger bus bar in the battery shut off box.
My other concern is a pre-wired battery positive connection with lower ampacity rating from the input to the 175 amp inverter switch that feeds the battery positive to the charge controller but that is functioning fine as long as the inverter switch is set to off. The 175 amp inverter switch is specified for my configuration.
Can someone provide some input on what I might try to isolate the issue? ... or have other suggestions?
I can provide the image of the epanel if that is acceptable here. I'm very frustrated with Outback's caliber of support. They took weeks to answer a simple, previous question. 
Tagged:
· Share on Twitter

Comments

  • wellbuilt
    wellbuilt Solar Expert Posts: 763 ✭✭✭✭
    #2
    I’m no expert but I have the same equipment  ,  
     First I would   Isolate the inverter  You could power up just the inverter and see if it works , then add components AC out see if it inverts . 
      I had a  problem with a double ground that would pop my inverter breaker , I believe there was a green ground wire in the inverter that need to be moved so there was only one common ground . It’s under the top cover 
    Out back  flex power one  with out back 3648 inverter fm80 charge controler  flex net  mate 16 gc215 battery’s 4425 Watts solar .
    · Share on Twitter
  • wellbuilt
    wellbuilt Solar Expert Posts: 763 ✭✭✭✭
    #3
    I have a flex power one system out back 36 48 there  is a quick start guide the shows the wiring clearly maybe this could help . 
     
    Out back  flex power one  with out back 3648 inverter fm80 charge controler  flex net  mate 16 gc215 battery’s 4425 Watts solar .
    · Share on Twitter
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #4
    Something  isn't right.   I admit to not understanding/following your description of the wiring.  Photos are always welcome.

    I did a couple diagrams of my E-panel wiring for another forum, so someone could understand the flow;


    This is the path into the E-Panel and out to the Charge controllers(2 arrays);
    + is red
    - is blue/gray


    I was showing the path from incoming from the array, so it shows arrows out to the battery, but of course it's DC current and the energy will go where needed. The inverter draws from the system. 

    Also this is a photo while I was wiring the system, There is no AC breaker yet or Neutral - Ground bond.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
    · Share on Twitter
  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    #5
    Just a thought, when an inverter is initially turned on the capacitors demand a high momentary current which may overwhelm the battery's internal BMS. You may want to ask Battleborne, they seem very willing to help, a 3.6Kv inverter is not small in comparison to the limited battery capacity, the initial inrush may, or may not be the cause of the problem.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
    · Share on Twitter
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #6
    Does the epanel have GFP breakers on the pv input?
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
    · Share on Twitter
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #7
    I'll take "Initial Inrush" !

    To test that theory, wire a high power light bulb (like a +100w halogen bulb) and place that across the switch, or area you are making that final 48VDC connection.  The bulb will limit inrush amps till the caps charge up, and when the bulb dims down and goes out, you can make the final connection and then remove the bulb & it's wire.   If it was Inrush, and still works, the bulb did the trick.

    If the system faults again, time to keep digging.  I'd start at the 9 foot long 48VDC run,
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

    · Share on Twitter
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #8
    It could be inrush, but would that pull Vbatt low enough for long enough for the CC to shut down (and apparently not log an error)?  

    IIRC, the FX does a POST (power on self test) for several seconds before normal operations begin.  Do the leds on the unit flash and fan test run before it shuts down?

    When swapping boards on one of mine a few years ago, it seems to me I tested it on the bench using some dry cell lantern batteries in series, and it got through the POST process with just those forpower.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
    · Share on Twitter

Categories