Should I buy OE laptop power supply?

softdown
softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭✭
in Off Grid Solar & Battery Systems #1
15" laptops both started overheating one week. So I use a 17" Acer laptop now. The power suppy is always warm and frequently hot. Gets hot from playing Monopoly or watching videos. Almost hard to handle hot. Third market power supply - most likely one of the cheapest available via Ebay. 

Never occured to me that a third party power supply could be a significant energy vampire. But I keep noticing that it often gets hot. 
First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
· Share on Twitter

Comments

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,641 admin
    #2
    Put a Kill-a-Watt meter on the power brick. See what the standby losses are (my newer laptop supplies seem to draw zero watts when unplugged from the computer or the computer is fully charged and off.

    Getting Hot... Even the OEM ones I have get hot when the computer is charging and/or running processor intensive loads. And I have to be careful that the power bricks are in good airflow (not under any clothing/blankets/etc.).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
    · Share on Twitter
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #3
    What is the AC power feeding the brick ?  Pure sine wave I'd expect only to get warm/toasty

    Mod sine from a inverter it could get hot enough to melt     All depends on the design, transformer-less or something else
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

    · Share on Twitter
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #4
    It might be interesting to compare DC output amp rating on the 3rd party vs OEM, also check that the output voltage matches. 

    Thinking the DC plug may fit in the input jack, but may be less conservative output spec or something.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
    · Share on Twitter
  • jonr
    jonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,386 ✭✭✭✭
    #5
    I found that a cheap replacement power supply was less efficient and produced more heat.  

    I am available for custom hardware/firmware development

    · Share on Twitter
  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭✭
    #6
    mike95490 said:
    What is the AC power feeding the brick ?  Pure sine wave I'd expect only to get warm/toasty

    Mod sine from a inverter it could get hot enough to melt     All depends on the design, transformer-less or something else

    Power comes from Outback FlexMate. 

    And last time I played Monopoly it didn't warm up two degrees. So thats not it. 
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
    · Share on Twitter
  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭✭
    #7
    BB. said:
    Put a Kill-a-Watt meter on the power brick. See what the standby losses are (my newer laptop supplies seem to draw zero watts when unplugged from the computer or the computer is fully charged and off.

    Getting Hot... Even the OEM ones I have get hot when the computer is charging and/or running processor intensive loads. And I have to be careful that the power bricks are in good airflow (not under any clothing/blankets/etc.).

    -Bill
    Laying on a bed, sheets can wind up on the power supply. Three dogs coming and going as well. I'm the pack leader. 

    The battery is weak so I imagine it charges a lot. Battery replacement is something to consider. It discharges 10% every night while sleeping in standby. 
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
    · Share on Twitter
  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭✭
    #8
    Bought a low energy Windows 10 then forgot the password. My draconian security measures often stymie - me. 
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
    · Share on Twitter

Categories