solar power not getting past controller

BJ_OR · July 2016

I have set up 6 100 w (12volt) Grape Solar GS100 panels flat mounted on the roof of my Motorhome Via parallel connection + to+ all six are in pairs so three separate wire runs to rooftop combiner box using buss bars again still parallel. This has a single rune down to the Shunt -side and a catastrophic fuse on the + side then to the controller via a cut off switch. I also have a tm2030 monitor and a sc2030 controller... I previously had a Morning star 45 pwm that I had trouble with overcharging (sending about 16 volts to the batteries ) that I couldn't get to stop.(That's another story) I wanted to go with the bogart controller so i just changed. So after that set up on what I have .... my problem is this

All worked great until the bedroom mechanism cut the phone cable control wire to the TM monitor. I rerouted and replaced the cable.

the monitor works but wont see solar volts and neither will the controller show any amps flowing to the Batteries ..either connected to the monitor or not (removed the phone line com cable for stand alone sc2030 operation). . I replaced the controller( I have another place to use it. ) thinking something was wrong with it but i get the same results. The monitor works great showing the inverter charger amp input etc

I have a voltmeter that shows 20.+ give or take volts at ea panel separately. (normal?) and at the combiner on the roof and at the on off switch and at the controller input .. until I turn the controller on it cycles then shows no voltage in. Basically the reading when on is the battery current Volts and the Monitor shows no amp change. Ralph from Bogart suggested the controller was showing no solar input and that the panels might be the problem He suggested that I try connecting the panels directly to the battery and look for amp use drop and I did so with 2 of the panels and saw a immediate drop in the amperage draw on the batteries.

At this point my limited Knowledge is stumped. I've pulled panels one by one thinking one was a problem ,I've checked wiring to insure its correct, It has to be in the panels,but All 6? How do I check the panels other than what I have done. Any other Ideas ??

DConlyGuy · July 2016

the voltage seems ok on your panels , the sc2030 controller says it can use 540 watts of solar at 12 volts, im not sure how the extra 60 watts your putting into it would effect it. for me i have a trusty old analog amp meter to check amps when the digital stuff seems to not work, may want to get one and see if you are really getting amps or not

Raj174 · July 2016

The only thing I see that could be suspect in the PV input line is the fuse. If it's good it should show continuity with no load, but if it's blown it will never carry a load. I also can't see how the monitor line would be related to a PV input problem.

bill von novak · July 2016

BJ_OR said:

IAny other Ideas ??

Temporarily jump around the controller (i.e. remove controller and connect solar directly to battery) while the panels are in the sun. Measure voltage at panels; should be slightly (.1 to .5 volts) higher than battery voltage. Measure current with clamp-on meter; should be significant. Don't do this for too long as you will overcharge the batteries if they are close to full charge.

If that works, then the problem is inside the controller.

BJ_OR · July 2016

Thanks the 600w is over by a bit but they are flat mounted and the controller will take the over and and limit it as I understand it.
I have jumped the controller but I will do some more measurements, as soon as I get full sun ( current location is a problem with that)
3 separate controllers fail to pass the power so it has to be a panel problem. Could they all have been fried somehow ? I had ea pair line fused 15 amp but pulled them to see if that effected the results.

BJ_OR · July 2016

Also if this fails I'm totally at a loss ... Are there any Rv solar companies ( Rv) in Florida that anyone recommends ?

Photowhit · July 2016

I suspect you just need someone who knows solar, Where in Florida are you? I know people around Tallahassee who might be able to direct you to someone, Daoubt Al at Simpler Solar systems is still working, but someone there might help, if it's still in business.

Key West to Pensacola is over 800 miles...

westbranch · July 2016

this might seem simplistic,BUT, please go through each of the different tests you have done and write them out for us...And what you did , step by step, so that we can be aware of any issues that might have been missed.
Particularly, did you power up the controller before the PV???Oh is your combiner Fused between strings?

hth

BJ_OR · July 2016

Currently traveling but will describe in more detail asap

BJ_OR · July 2016

Quickly
Yes there were in line fuses (mc4 )15 amp on each string of 2 panels I removed them at one point thinking the fuses had failed. Also a 60 amp fuse on the combined input after the combiner there is also a 100 amp fuse on the battery line out from the controller , near the battery .
I used a cut off box as a on off switch so battery to controller and Pv to controller are controlled by the same pull bar. Both power in and out are at the same time. I did that thinking I could isolate the controller in one action

vtmaps · July 2016

BJ_OR said:
I used a cut off box as a on off switch so battery to controller and Pv to controller are controlled by the same pull bar. Both power in and out are at the same time. I did that thinking I could isolate the controller in one action

I don't know if it is the cause of your problem, but most controllers need to be connected to the battery for a few seconds before they are connected to the PV.

--vtMaps

westbranch · July 2016

westbranch said:

this might seem simplistic,..........................
Particularly, did you power up the controller before the PV???

hth

that may well be the problem, as VT said..... Simultaneous connection could well confuse the CC....

littleharbor2 · July 2016

I'd think, in any sophisticated MPPT charge controller, i.e.; Midnight Solar, it would be best to allow it to boot up for a minute or so before hitting it with the PV.

BJ_OR · July 2016

I'll wire it for that this weekend when I get some time however it's worked for the last year with both sides being powered at virtually the same time. But it does make sense to try it that way. Here's hoping

BJ_OR · July 2016

Got a few minutes so set it up with a separate switch on the Pv side ... Batteries first then the Pv a minute later .. No change in fact no lights or reaction until the Pv is turned on

littleharbor2 · July 2016

If you get nothing when the batteries connected sounds like an issue with 1, the batteries or, 2, connection problem or, 3 a bad controller. If you show 20+ volts at the controller connection points that would indicate an open circuit condition. My guess is that your CC has bit the dust

westbranch · July 2016

BJ wrote: All worked great until the bedroom mechanism cut the phone cable control wire to the TM monitor.... Hmmmmmm

This probably was effectively A SHORT CIRCUIT event, no telling what happened......

Vic · July 2016

Just a drive-by comment;

Most MPPT CCs will not tolerate a short on the PV input terminals (ie PV+ to PV--, or the common ground connection).
Think this situation can damage the FETs ...

Assume that the "TM monitor" could possibly be a TriMetric (?). So if the PV input terminals are always 0 volts, is it possible that the PV input leads from the PVs got shorted during that "bedroom" event? A DC Clamp Ammeter, measuring the current flowing in the PV input cable, in good sun, might help diagnose (parts of this may have been covered previously).

FWIW, Good luck, Vic

BJ_OR · July 2016

Will check however I'm using a pwm bogart controller actually 2 of them ! The old one and a new one fresh out of the box and also a Morningstar 45 pwm I had prior ...... both that weren't part of the monitor control wire cut and yes a trimetric ( that controls the sc2030 .. The reason I switched from the Morningstar )

Vic · July 2016

BJ_OR said:

Will check however I'm using a pwm bogart controller actually 2 of them ! The old one and a new one fresh out of the box and also a Morningstar 45 pwm I had prior ...... both that weren't part of the monitor control wire cut and yes a trimetric ( that controls the sc2030 .. The reason I switched from the Morningstar )

Hello BJ_OR,

Sorry, had read this Thread .. Discussion ... some days ago, and had forgotten about your PWM CC, but then saw the reference to "any sophisticated MPPT CC" and went off on a Secant ... sorry.

Good Luck! Vic

scrubjaysnest · July 2016

When the wiring was repaired to the Trimetric was something missed wired? like shunt wiring, PV(battery2) etc?

BJ_OR · July 2016

The shunt wiring was cut along with the phone cable control wire sc to the meter. The shunt wiring is pretty straight forward .. Match the colors so I don't think other than The moment it was cut there was any other event.
I have two older 13 year old original panels on this 13 year old motorhome that went to a heliotrope controller .. I replaced the old heliotrope with one of my sc 2030 controllers that wouldn't work in my new system and it works great It lights up the solar power indicator light and is sending out 5-6 amps to the batteries. Controllers work fine.
As soon as this heat wave in lets up , I'm climbing up on the roof pulling the wires and rewireing the system 1 panel at a time.

solar power not getting past controller

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