Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan wrote: »

Most mini split inverters can run at 130% for 10 minutes for faster response.
So if you are turning the unit on and the temperature differential is more than 5-8 degrees the unit will ramp to 130% but the amp draw should still be at or below nameplate amp draw.

I'm not sure what my problem is, but it seems like the Sanyo would be happier using 220v or under.
I think when it's defrosting and the house cools off a bit, there is a problem
at the end of the defrost cycle. It calls for larger (than normal) increase in temperature.
And if the line voltage happens to be up around 252 to 256 volts,
the processor doesn't notice and starts the stepping routine,
just like it was plain old low voltage.
The higher the wattage gets, the faster it increases. Seems like a non-linear positive feedback loop.

Last December, it got up around 3kw before we could cut it back, and
over-pressure blew a pin-hole in the copper. Overnight, all the R410a leaked out.
That unit is now stored in my garage..

This is from my manual.

22.5 Amps times 254v = 5.7kW.. That seems like a lot of power for a unit
that should be using 2.484kw at max heating..

LucMan · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Sounds like you had an overcharge, non condensible's, mixed refrigerant, or contaminated oil issue. I doubt that the hole was a result of high pressure, more likely excessive vibration from compressor overload. I'm not familiar with the Sanyo but the other brands have high , low pressure and high amp draw cutouts for just that purpose. I'm sure the Sanyo also has these safety controls.
The R 410A units are really finicky with any system contaminates.
The electrical safety controls are all rated at AMPS not watts.
All units are rated at + - 10% for voltage.
208/230=187-253v acceptable range.

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan wrote: »

Sounds like you had an overcharge, non condensible's, mixed refrigerant, or contaminated oil issue. I doubt that the hole was a result of high pressure, more likely excessive vibration from compressor overload. I'm not familiar with the Sanyo but the other brands have high , low pressure and high amp draw cutouts for just that purpose. I'm sure the Sanyo also has these safety controls.
The R 410A units are really finicky with any system contaminates.
The electrical safety controls are all rated at AMPS not watts.
All units are rated at + - 10% for voltage.
208/230=187-253v acceptable range.

I've been considering problems with the refrigerant. Since both units were filled in China, on 09/09. (per their labels), they might have pumped in some bad mixture.?. (or too much for 20' linesets etc).
From what I've been able to glean from Sanyo USA and dealer support, it's not likely.
Since bad refrigerant hasn't been a problem with other Sanyo 24KHS72 installed from the same batch.

I realize that the ratings are in AMPS, but since my voltmeters are showing
me the line voltage, and the power meters are displaying watts, I can
get a pretty good idea of the approximate amps being drawn.
(The calculated amps are very close to what I've seen on the clamp-on Amp meter).

~~~

"All units are rated at + - 10% for voltage.
208/230=187-253v acceptable range"

At 8AM this morning, the AC line voltage was 128.5 volts.
So, that puts about 257 volts on the Sanyo.
By 8:30AM, the voltage was back down to 126.

Because of my experience turning up the heat and getting power surges,
I suspect that 257 volts might be too much for the Sanyo to handle.
(Maybe anything over 245v will cause this particular unit to act up).

I think one reason is the direct AC to DC conversion.
The extra high DC voltage is switched into the compressor motor,
causing it to draw more current, using more power and spinning like crazy.

Another reason could be the firmware. A call for more heat,
under many difference conditions, causes the power use to go up in discreet steps.

Like 10-20 watt steps every 2-4 seconds. (Sort of like a soft-start).
(The exact step/watt rate is unknown, due to my slow sample rate).
Over a minute or two, the power normally increases by 1000 to 2000 watts.
Which isn't a bad thing. Since it stays there for a short time (20-30 seconds)
and steps right back down to near what it was before. Or a bit higher.

The problem starts, when the unit is already using 950 watts,
and it starts stepping up towards an additional 2000 watts.
Pretty soon, it's up around 3kw and headed for a over-pressure or over-load reset.
It seems like there too little feedback to the controller.

It looks as if, it were not for the High pressure switch and the over-load relay in the main AC input,
the motor will RPM itself to death.
(Bottom wires on the diagram).

Cheers,
Rich

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan wrote: »

I doubt that the hole was a result of high pressure, more likely excessive vibration from compressor overload.

The leak was just above the compressor. I think it was just under this clip-on tube, which is tack-soldered on the other side.
(You can see lube under the cable tie, and streaks of lube on top of the insulation disc on top of the compressor).

Which is located just above the compressor.

It might have not been the high pressure as you say, but vibration,
causing a thin crack. It was a very slow leak. Located by pumping
nitrogen into the loop and listening carefully with a sound probe tube.

The tubes have little weight packs that seem to be vibration dampers.
The small ones are wrapped in light brown (packing?) tape.
But a couple of big flap style weights have no tape. In the center and left.

Here's a pic of the new one (during spring cleaning). I count 3 large untaped weights.

With all these add-on dampers, I wonder if there is some kind of vibration problem with this model?

Or, maybe these dampers are commonly seen in mini-splits??

Anyone else seen these before?

Thanks,
Rich

LucMan · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Many companies use the same compressor for different capacities, just use different firmware to run the compressors faster for the additional capacity.
They can run at 6000 rpm, not a problem for a rotary unless you have an internal unbalanced condition .
I have never seen the insulation wrapped on the lines like that before on any unit, usually insulation is just used on the thermistors or where condensation is a problem or where chafing could be a problem.
It is possible that you had the wrong control board installed at the factory resulting in your high RPM problem. The compressor can handle the additional RPM but your other components are not up to the higher capacity.
It wouldn't be the first time that happened. That's why there are warranties.

Hey you know what they say you take the cover off they all look the same!;)

Dave Angelini · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

My point about the heat mode is that it uses more energy (as the specifcations confirm) and I never program it for more than a 2 degree differential. This means someone must be home and be the brains for this during winter conditions.

We live offgrid and the summer is never a problem with clouds like it is in winter. The heatpump just runs when there is solar. Some day there may be a way to automate this. Time to go get some Christmas cheer! Good Luck with your anomaly!

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Dave Sparks wrote: »

My point about the heat mode is that it uses more energy (as the specifcations confirm) and I never program it for more than a 2 degree differential. This means someone must be home and be the brains for this during winter conditions.

We live offgrid and the summer is never a problem with clouds like it is in winter. The heatpump just runs when there is solar. Some day there may be a way to automate this. Time to go get some Christmas cheer! Good Luck with your anomaly!

I put mine in C mode and just go up 1 degree C at a time.
I didn't like the odd way their conversion was done around 70F.
The native mode of the system is in Centigrade.

We have two over-wattage alarms on our power monitors,
but I hate bouncing out of bed to turn down the Sanyo at 3AM (or even at 8AM)..
I have a big day tomorrow, so I'm going to shut off the Sanyo tonight,
and spend a few bucks on oi, until morning.. :grr

I see there might be a way around this anomaly..
Found a neat family of parts on Ebay today..
Search on "Veris Industries Hawkeye 708 Current Status Sensor".
Take a look at their PDF data.. Looks like something I need..

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

I tend to think they put 3 ton firmware in my 2 ton unit.

But, I wonder if the problem firmware is located in the outdoor unit,
or the indoor unit (which sends commands to the outdoor unit)..
I've wondered about those boards.. Is there a dip switch or jumpers
that allow it to be used on difference size (BTU) units??
Or even any numbers on the chips that would give us a clue?

~~

I only see a couple of short sections of insulated copper tubing.
I'm a newbie to this stuff, but I have to say that I've never
seen much insulation on the tubing in the old style window ACs..
Just a bit on the car AC units I've looked at..

~~

What do you think about all the vibration dampers??

Normal or not?

Thanks,
Rich

Edit: 12:30 Dec25 2010
I read something interesting in the users guide last week..

•High Power Operation
If not in Auto Operation, the unit operates at
maximum output for 30 minutes, regardless of the desired temperature.
The fan speed is 1 step above “High”.

That got me wondering how 'Auto Operation' mode would work in the dead of winter.?.
It would inhibit High Power operation.. Which is nice..

But, will it do anything to inhibit the normal 'Fast Heat Boost' (installed for impatient Americans)??

So, I'm trying out Auto Mode operation this morning.
So far, it hasn't peaked over 1600w.. I'll keep watching it and report on any problems..
I hope it doesn't switch to Cooling when the sun comes in and warms us up..
That might not be possible, if the outdoor thermistor is checked,
to see if Cooling mode is even possible..

I think Auto, is the mode used when these units are used in Server rooms..

LucMan · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

XRinger wrote: »

I tend to think they put 3 ton firmware in my 2 ton unit.

But, I wonder if the problem firmware is located in the outdoor unit,
or the indoor unit (which sends commands to the outdoor unit)..
I've wondered about those boards.. Is there a dip switch or jumpers
that allow it to be used on difference size (BTU) units??
Or even any numbers on the chips that would give us a clue?

~~

I only see a couple of short sections of insulated copper tubing.
I'm a newbie to this stuff, but I have to say that I've never
seen much insulation on the tubing in the old style window ACs..
Just a bit on the car AC units I've looked at..

~~

What do you think about all the vibration dampers??

Normal or not?

Thanks,
Rich

Edit: 12:30 Dec25 2010
I read something interesting in the users guide last week..

•High Power Operation
If not in Auto Operation, the unit operates at
maximum output for 30 minutes, regardless of the desired temperature.
The fan speed is 1 step above “High”.

That got me wondering how 'Auto Operation' mode would work in the dead of winter.?.
It would inhibit High Power operation.. Which is nice..

But, will it do anything to inhibit the normal 'Fast Heat Boost' (installed for impatient Americans)??

So, I'm trying out Auto Mode operation this morning.
So far, it hasn't peaked over 1600w.. I'll keep watching it and report on any problems..
I hope it doesn't switch to Cooling when the sun comes in and warms us up..
That might not be possible, if the outdoor thermistor is checked,
to see if Cooling mode is even possible..

I think Auto, is the mode used when these units are used in Server rooms..

Auto mode controls the compressor frequency and the indoor fan motor speed according to the temperature setpoint. All these units are designed to give the least amount of temperature swing in the room. A correctly sized unit will run at a speed sufficient to maintain the setpoint with the least amount of energy consumed. On the older style single speed compressors the compressor would cycle on an off to maintain setpoint, using max power.
The inverters are designed to be left at setpoint and not turned on or off.
I don't believe they are auto switchover from heat to cool, at least the Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Daikin are not.
I recommend using the auto setting for max overall efficiency.
It should not go to boost mode unless the unit is undersized or it is extremely cold, if left running in the auto position.
The ratings on these units are on the low side because the labs that test them still use the criteria for the single speed units.

The firmware would be in the outdoor board. Check the part number on the board and compare them to the correct part numbers for each size unit. The part numbers are printed on the boards and may have to be removed to read. On the Fujitsu units the part number is only 1 number off between the 24 & 30 board.
No capacity dip switches on the units that I deal with.
The Fujitsu units are limited to 10 min. at 130%, they have no boost setting and rarely go to the 130% capacity.
The vibration dampers sound like an after the problem fix to me.

In Japan these units are already obsolete, everything is going to CO2 refrigerant with ultra high COP and EER's.
We will start to see them in a couple of years. The US is always the last to get the leading edge equipment.

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan wrote: »

Auto mode controls the compressor frequency and the indoor fan motor speed according to the temperature setpoint. All these units are designed to give the least amount of temperature swing in the room. A correctly sized unit will run at a speed sufficient to maintain the setpoint with the least amount of energy consumed. On the older style single speed compressors the compressor would cycle on an off to maintain setpoint, using max power.
The inverters are designed to be left at setpoint and not turned on or off.
I don't believe they are auto switchover from heat to cool, at least the Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Daikin are not.
I recommend using the auto setting for max overall efficiency.
It should not go to boost mode unless the unit is undersized or it is extremely cold, if left running in the auto position.
The ratings on these units are on the low side because the labs that test them still use the criteria for the single speed units.

The firmware would be in the outdoor board. Check the part number on the board and compare them to the correct part numbers for each size unit. The part numbers are printed on the boards and may have to be removed to read. On the Fujitsu units the part number is only 1 number off between the 24 & 30 board.
No capacity dip switches on the units that I deal with.
The Fujitsu units are limited to 10 min. at 130%, they have no boost setting and rarely go to the 130% capacity.
The vibration dampers sound like an after the problem fix to me.

In Japan these units are already obsolete, everything is going to CO2 refrigerant with ultra high COP and EER's.
We will start to see them in a couple of years. The US is always the last to get the leading edge equipment.

This Sanyo has three Auto items you can select.
1. Auto flap. Points the air flow down when heating and up when cooling.
2. Auto fan. Controls the indoor unit's fan speed.
3. Auto Operation. Enables the unit to automatically switch back and forth
between heating and cooling operating modes.

I've never used Auto Operation mode before, Just manually selected
the heating or cooling icon with the operation mode select button.
But, it's on Auto now.. Just to see what happens.
The temperature has been about 25F the last 10 hours. (As a big storm rolls in)
We might get to see a defrost run later tonight. I've set one of the monitors
to beep at 1kW, so we can watch what happens. or maybe see the tail-end of the cycle.

When it's in the mid-20s out, and the den doors are closed, the unit normally
cycles between 500-600w and idles at 40-50w for short periods before
resuming 500-600w.
But, with the den open after a cooling night, the power kicks up to an average of 800-900w, when few if any idle segments.

When it's above 32F, it will use 440 to 480w between longer idle segments.
I think it might be sized correctly for our house, without the den..
The den is loaded with windows and can pretty cool overnight.

Last summer, it cooled the house with hardly any effort. Low power use
and longish idle runs. Even with the den doors open, it just sipped watts..

I noticed the line voltage wasn't very high this morning. No one going to work and shedding load.. (My theory).

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan said "The firmware would be in the outdoor board. Check the part number on the board and compare them to the correct part numbers for each size unit. The part numbers are printed on the boards and may have to be removed to read. On the Fujitsu units the part number is only 1 number off between the 24 & 30 board."

Thanks for the motivation. I've been meaning to check out the board
in the unit stored in the garage.

I know it's got the right diagram (with it's number) glued on top of the PCB assmby,
but I need to remove it, so I can see if it's really the 8FA-0-5181-21900 board.

What worries me, is the firmware. They don't use big EPROMs with labels on them anymore..
It's all locked away inside somewhere..

LucMan · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

XRinger wrote: »

LucMan said "The firmware would be in the outdoor board. Check the part number on the board and compare them to the correct part numbers for each size unit. The part numbers are printed on the boards and may have to be removed to read. On the Fujitsu units the part number is only 1 number off between the 24 & 30 board."

Thanks for the motivation. I've been meaning to check out the board
in the unit stored in the garage.

I know it's got the right diagram (with it's number) glued on top of the PCB assmby,
but I need to remove it, so I can see if it's really the 8FA-0-5181-21900 board.

What worries me, is the firmware. They don't use big EPROMs with labels on them anymore..
It's all locked away inside somewhere..

I'm assuming Sanyo swapped out the outdoor unit for you under warranty. Can't beat that. Sometimes that is the easiest solution on these units to keep the customer happy. It's easy to get 8 hours labor on these to troubleshoot and make a repair. Some have 3 boards in them, sometimes all the boards are damaged when there is a short.
Are you having any problems with the replacement unit?

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan wrote: »

I'm assuming Sanyo swapped out the outdoor unit for you under warranty. Can't beat that. Sometimes that is the easiest solution on these units to keep the customer happy. It's easy to get 8 hours labor on these to troubleshoot and make a repair. Some have 3 boards in them, sometimes all the boards are damaged when there is a short.
Are you having any problems with the replacement unit?

I think this one has the one main board.. I'll have to get some pics
to document the installed board(s), so I can check the numbers out
with Sanyo tech support.

I'm having the same problems as before. The system wants to run away
at high power. Zoom up to the 3000 watt range..
At least I think it's the same problem.

Right now, it's 18.3 °F /w Blowing Snow
Windchill: 7 °F
Humidity: 59%

And the Sanyo was using about 900w to maintain 22C..
I turned it down to 21C and it's running at 650-700w now.
Seems a little high. But maybe the wind is affecting it, badly..
Line voltage is okay tonight.. 124v & 248v right now.

LucMan · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

3000 watts is not out of range for your unit. 250v x 12amps= 3000 watts= max power.

XRinger · December 2010

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

LucMan wrote: »

3000 watts is not out of range for your unit. 250v x 12amps= 3000 watts= max power.

It's 12.0A x 230V = 2760w.
The Sanyo as a load is, 230/12.0=19.16 ohms.

When our voltage jumps up to 256v/19.16 ohms =13.36A x 256v=3.4kW..

Anyways, this one must be pretty rugged, because I think it was up to
3.6KW a while back. Just for a few seconds.
Now that I have a 10A breaker, I hope it will shut down before 3kw+...

XRinger · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

I've been able to circumvent the the power surge problem.
I've assembled a sensitive adjustable circuit breaker that can drop the power
to the Sanyo for a few cycles, allowing it to restart..

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/appliances-gadgets/1490-diy-230vac-adjustable-power-limiter.html#post12575

I think this kind of adjustable circuit breaker might be very useful to off-grid people
using mini-splits or other ACs. Since it can limit the max power drawn by
the connected load.

Cheers,
Rich

techntrek · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Remind me, your problem happens when you are in Auto, right? Have you tried forcing it to a fixed speed to see if the surge happens there?

XRinger · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

techntrek wrote: »

Remind me, your problem happens when you are in Auto, right? Have you tried forcing it to a fixed speed to see if the surge happens there?

I've been using Auto mode again. It seems to make no difference in the
frequency of the power surges during the winter.

We had another defrost cycle this morning at 6AM. Not too cold out either.
My Auto-Breaker had trigger once and the second ramp went to 2kw
and then settled back to 490w and ran normally.

Dave Angelini · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

XRinger wrote: »

I've been able to circumvent the the power surge problem.
I've assembled a sensitive adjustable circuit breaker that can drop the power
to the Sanyo for a few cycles, allowing it to restart..

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/appliances-gadgets/1490-diy-230vac-adjustable-power-limiter.html#post12575

I think this kind of adjustable circuit breaker might be very useful to off-grid people
using mini-splits or other ACs. Since it can limit the max power drawn by
the connected load.

Cheers,
Rich

I am not getting the jist of this Rich. Can you please say it in other wording! I have such a different model Sanyo and my lowest outside temp is almost never below 30F so I have never had any problems (knocking on plastic wood) Thx!

XRinger · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Dave Sparks wrote: »

I am not getting the jist of this Rich. Can you please say it in other wording! I have such a different model Sanyo and my lowest outside temp is almost never below 30F so I have never had any problems (knocking on plastic wood) Thx!

The power surge problem that my Sanyo has had since day-one is discussed above (I think).
And, I've heard of a few others (very few) that have seen the same bug,
but in smaller BTU versions of the Sanyo ASHP.

Anyhow, this gizmo is a self-resetting circuit breaker.
When the Sanyo goes nuts and starts to ramp up towards 3.6 KW,
the qizmo shuts off the juice at about 2300 watts..
It quickly turns the power back on, and the Sanyo comes back up, starting at low power.

The gizmo is controlling the max wattage the Sanyo can draw..
And, the Sanyo restarts in a civilized manner, without any bangs and bumps..
(Like it does when the over-pressure or over-load in the outdoor unit engage).

Before, if I wanted it warmer, I would have carefully click up 1 degree on the remote.
Otherwise, it might head up towards 3.6KW land.
Then wait a while before clicking up another degree..

The same crazy power surge happens after each Defrost cycle too.
When the dew-point is close to the temperature, I hated waking up 2 or 3 times a night,
to the sound of an alarm going off.. Get up, turn off the Sanyo, restart it.. :grr

It's easy to demo the problem. Just hit the "High Power" button on the remote..

Dave Angelini · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Thanks Rich!

I guess I would not know if the smaller Sanyo's do this as we only run when the sun is out hence the day temp is above 30F. I do see the amps increase in high power mode but my unit times out and only runs for 10 minutes. I see normally 7 to 9 amps 120vac and maybe 11 amps in high power..

It is great for heating but all this rain has made March pretty much a woodstove heat source.

Is your Gizmo for resetting the power adjustable? It does sound interesting for another use I have in mind...

XRinger · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

The current sensor is good for 1 to 135 amps AC.

http://cgproducts.johnsoncontrols.com/MET_PDF%5C241034518.pdf

Mine has 4 turns inside the core, so I think it's good from about 0.25A to 33A.
It's got a 10-turn pot for adjusting the set-point.

I was thinking it might a very useful device for watching the power use
of my Sanyo and switching to my solar-backup system when heating
demand was low.

Normally, when it's sunny, my heating system is using less than 500w.
So, if I could automatically switch it from grid to my back-up source,
whenever the power was less than 500w, I could save a few bucks..
(We could do the same trick in the summer with cooling).

That's why I'm interested in learning if my Sanyo Mini-split minds running off MSWaves..

XRinger · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Dave Sparks wrote: »

Thanks Rich!

I do see the amps increase in high power mode but my unit times out and only runs for 10 minutes.

It is great for heating but all this rain has made March pretty much a woodstove heat source.

Yeah, they put HP mode on a timer, so as not to run it at max for too long.

I run my Sanyo in the rain, since my little snow shed keeps water from dripping down in front of the air-intake..
I ran a foam strip under some spare siding along the wall, to join the little roof to the house.
The lattice on the sides seems to slow up the big snow drifts, keeping them away from the air-intake.

I works pretty good, even in heavy rain. If it's real cold, it will eventually frost up and go into defrost mode.
I think heavy rain when it's in the mid 30s is the problem range..

Dave Angelini · March 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Thanks Rich,

I have the same sort of "a roof" to keep the second story snow from sliding off and maybe doing damage. I bet the unit would work on a an MSW inverter (sines are pretty cheap now) and if I ever have enough time I hope to see what the average DC voltage is that the iinverter is making.

It would probably keep my up late if I knew that I had an mppv already there and did not need the conversion loss. Like I said when I have time...

cdre · July 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

These AC's seem like they are awesome.... Can I run one on a 1200 watt generator?

I've got a 40' 5th wheel trailer in Belize, and I'll be working out of that trailer for about a year while I wait for my house to be built... Thinking of sectioning off the trailer with an accordion door and running one of these AC's in my workspace for 5 hours a day or so. Very small area with 2 windows (which will leak just a little). Poor insulation.

I'm thinking to run the AC on low while powering it with a 1200w (1500 peak) Champion 4 stroke generator. I'd like to also run my laptop, IP phone and router (about 130w total) concurrently.

Gas is expensive in Belize (about $6/gal) so assuming I run this setup for 5 or 6 hours a day, I want to size the generator to maximise the economy. I always heard that you burn 50% of the load at idle... so I'd not want to run a 3500w generator for the 600 or so watts I expect to use. Hence the dainty genset.

Any thoughts?

cdre · July 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

That said... is there any reason I couldnt run it on one of these? A xantrex 600w true sine inverter? This might bring a panel or two into the equasion...

http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1206/dp/B002O5P8BA

BB. · July 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

I agree with you--Running a typical genset with 0-50% load burns (almost) the same amount of fuel (gallons or liters) per hour...

Somebody has measured their Sanyo (?) at something like 300 watts or so on low (no startup surges to speak of)...

Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

And, can you justify a Honda eu2000i which runs 9-10 hours on a gallon of fuel at 1/4 load (1,600 watt full load, 400 watt 1/4 load)? 120 VAC in north America--but I think they have a 230 VAC version too (non-north America?).

The Sanyo (and a few others) will run on 120 VAC--The rest (some some with upwards of 26 SEER vs 16? for the Sanyo) run on 220 VAC... What is the common AC voltage for your area?

But, at 300 watts (on low)--You could throw up a few solar panels and reasonably prices TSW inverter--Away you go!

-Bill

cdre · July 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

BB... always good for a quick response. Thanks!

I was thinking of a solar expansion to run the AC, but I'm already maxed out with a 300w array and my 25amp BlueSky charger on 4 T-105s wired for 12v... My next step when the house is done is to go to a very large 5000w array and a 48v bank. I'd rather not do a half install on my trailer and put use on batteries I'd want to incorporate into a larger bank later... As you well know, solar systems dont lend themselves well to incremental upgrades.

There may be a way to set something up separately, but for now it's good to know I can burn just over a hundred dollars worth of gas a month and have AC.

cdre · July 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

Oh... and we run US style 120... I'll likely just ship a sanyo split unit and the genset down. (Cheaper than buying locally)

techntrek · July 2011

Re: Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

If you must stick with a genset, you'll get the highest kw per gallon if you combine it with a battery bank. Gensets get their best efficiency running near 100% capacity so size your genset to not only run a mini-split, but also a charger to charge your batteries. Even factoring in charging and inverter losses you'll come out ahead.

Sanyo mini split AC (inverter/variable speed)

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