Fridge Upgrade Question

I am thinking of upgrading my 7 cu.ft. propane fridge to an electric at my remote camp.
I currently run a 5 cu.ft. fridge made out of a freezer without any issues, what I am wondering is
if it is better to go with a D.C. fridge, or an AC fridge, and if AC, should I get an inverter type,
or just a standard fridge?
I am looking for about a 10-11 cu.ft. so that it will fit in the location of the propane fridge.
Thanks...
T
I currently run a 5 cu.ft. fridge made out of a freezer without any issues, what I am wondering is
if it is better to go with a D.C. fridge, or an AC fridge, and if AC, should I get an inverter type,
or just a standard fridge?
I am looking for about a 10-11 cu.ft. so that it will fit in the location of the propane fridge.
Thanks...
T
Comments
Or you can buy an expensive 12/24 Volt DC refrigerator, and a 150 AH @ 24 volt (or 300 AH @ 12 volt) battery bank, no AC inverter. No frost free. The DC refrigerators have almost starting surge current.
There are (in the USA) some Inverter based refrigerators becoming available... But for the most part, these are relatively large and are "nice/fancy" models that are frost free. In other countries, there are smaller/simpler inverter fridges available.
With the DC refrigerators, there have been issues getting service, if required, and (in decades past), some issues with quality of the units.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/dc%2520refrigerator?NCNI-5 DC refrigerators at Homedepot 10-13 cuft models and others
I am not sure I would say a DC unit is that much more energy efficient as they are not using the energy rating system of Energy Star (i.e., a 13 cuft unit is rated at ~600 WH per day or 219 kWH per year vs ~1,000 WH per day or 365 kWH per year) in a hot room, door opening/closing, etc.... The DC fridges are rated 587 Wh/ 24 hrs (set to -11˚C freezer/+4˚C fridge performance in a +25˚C ambient).
There is the option of using a converted chest freezer as a fridge (change out the thermostat or add a plug in unit that can be set to 32-40F. Chest fridges can get down towards 250 WH per day--But they still have the 600-800 VA starting surge
It is the starting surge and running the defrost heater that adds to the higher power (Wattage) needs (something like 500-600 Watts for a defrost heater, and around 600-800 VA for compressor starting surge, the ~20 Watts to run an AC inverter 24 hours per day for AC fridge) all add up. And you still need the larger AC inverter and battery bank to support the surge (and larger solar array).
If the solar power was just for the refrigerator and random power for a few other things (LED lighting, RV style water pump, cell phone charging) and weekend/summer usage--I probably would still strongly consider the DC fridge.
If, however, you can/need more power and have the room/sunlight/etc. to run an AC fridge--The AC fridges are also cost effective, and the "extra" 120 VAC power is mighty handy and easy send longer wire runs for remote LED lighting, remote water pump, etc.
-Bill
Second system 1890W 3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.
5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
I would suggest buying a standard 120 volt AC fridge and a suitable solar system to power it. The apartment size fridge (mine is 11.5 cubic foot) is cheap common and could be easily serviced or replaced if need be. In Canada, my Insignia fridge cost $450 whereas a 12/24 volt DC fridge costs $1800 (!) and does not defrost.
How large of a solar system?
1000 watts minimum 2000 watts better.
Inverter size? Get a 1500 watt inverter or maybe up to 2500 watts pure sine or modified sine. The Insignia fridge has run for two years now on my old Trace modified sine inverter telling me that an upgrade to pure sine is not a pressing requirement.
1500 watts will run one of anything you can plug into a standard duplex outlet. And has a modest "idle" current draw.
And regardless if the fridge is running or not, you can cut boards with a Skilsaw, brew coffee, run a TV, pump water or whatever.
Interestingly, I could have sold my old propane fridge 6 times. There are still people that want them. But about all you can say is that they require no electricity and that they are silent. They are expensive to run and require periodic cleaning and defrosting.
That issue with chest freezers is why my dad switched from chest to uprights. There is no simple solution. I don't see how a prepper is ever going to use the food at the bottom on a chest freezer since said prepper seeks a full freezer.
Then again the whole idea is being prepared for disaster - a lack of food. If that day comes I don't think being 10 years old is going to prevent consumption to stay alive. Freezer burn is easily removed anyway - a minor inconvenience.
I have a bad habit of eating the food I just bought. Others say that also comes naturally to them.
or generally better?
Just bought an inverter fridge by Daewoo several days ago. Deciding how to transport it 220 miles right now - without laying it on its side. Could use box truck or pick up truck or stand it upright on those "cargo shelfs" that fit into trailer hitches and have an ~300 pound rating. With straps to the roof cargo rack. Thinking pick up truck right now.
Good products should have a 4.4 star rating, or better, in my experience. Full size fridges almost never seem to enjoy 4 star ratings at Amazon.
I have no expertise but am inclined to think that inverter refrigerators are better due to being more efficient. But not radically so.
Then start it up, and let it run for only a minute. and let it stand a couple more hours to let even more oil get back to the compressor. The pressure it builds in that minute, helps force more oil back to where it belongs (in the compressor )
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
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The unusual amount of problems with Amazon fridge sales indicates that people do not let the fridge stand after all the jostling around. I would bet on that.
While remodeling my house.
Put it in the window waited 24 hours. Working great.
6 230ah GC @36 volts
18 amp accusense charger. 3650 champion
I am finding that a chest freezer with external temp controller works quite well - if one has two top baskets for ease of retrieving a soft drink etc. Setting the milk on the compressor keeps it cold - with my chest freezer anyway.
By buying two chest freezers, each with two baskets - I got three baskets for the fridge conversion. It works quite well and uses only .25 kWh/day. 1/6th of my 18 cu ft fridge with defrost capability.
But I have had problems programming a popular external controller - both times. Perhaps I buy discounted controllers (returned - possibly defective?}. So I use a very simply controller now.
One former member here glued plastic sloped "gutters" on the sides below where the evaporator coils were attached, and directed the condensate to the drain--Kept the bottom of the freezer from becoming a swamp.
I used to use a chest freezer as an environmental chamber... Put a muffin fan or two inside and they helped keep temperatures stable throughout the chamber. (in this case, probably power the fans from the temperature controller so they they only run when the compressor runs.
-Bill
The duct between the fridge and freezer sections was completely blocked with ice. Warming the fridge up with contents removed fixed it. This ice is not visible and took nearly four hours to melt. Fridge now performs as new. Nothing like this mentioned in the manual. Something to check if you have problems with your fridge.
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,
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