Anybody use these AlumiConn connectors?

Photowhit

I'm wiring up my New/used MS4024 inverter and I realize I have pretty much butchered my E-Panel lite to a DC box.

This inverter has 2 hots wires out which are in phase. but I don't have a AC hot bus bar in my E-Panel any longer. Since this is a major increase in inverter power, it's doubtfull I will be using the full capacityso I'd like to bod the 2 in the inverter and then run a single wire to a 30 amp breaker and out to the sub panel. There is a strain relief on the outside of the inverter, but I'm reluctant to just use wire nuts. I purchased these Alumiconn 3 port connectors. It doesn't appear to be any caution as to max current, so I'm good with USE-2 wire and it's limits?

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/f5/f5363a24-b60e-409f-86a5-222ef03300e8.pdf

In the end is this even something I should worry about? It appears themain reason is for higher pass throuogh wattage if connected to a grid in a standby type operation.

I haven't read about Neutral ground switching, but it appears at a quick glance that the inverter will recognize and connect or disconnect the neutral ground bond internally, so I shouldn't have to the connection area. Sorry, it's late and I haven't read through that yet.

BB.

I have used a bunch of the AlumiConn connectors in a condo that was wired in the early 1970's with aluminum wiring to put copper transition pigtails on the aluminum wiring.

Short of replacing all of the old aluminum wiring in the condo, this appears to be one of two methods that seems to provide a reliable (and "safe") method to terminate (old style) aluminum wiring. Generally, you would put the one or two aluminum "feed wires" in the AlumiConn connectors and a copper pigtail that would be used to connect to a copper rated outlet/etc... You use a torque screw driver to property tighten the "bus bar screws". 10-15 inch-lbs torque depending on material and wire awg (15 inch-lbs for all copper wiring):

https://inspectapedia.com/aluminum/AlumiConn_Installation.php#Torque

So far, the AlumiConn connectors are working very well (no issues so far).

The other is a specialized crimping system that uses COPALUM Connectors. Last I heard a few years ago, the training and crimping system is quite expensive, and you may only be able to rent the crimp tool (goes back to home base for inspection/rebuilding).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminum_building_wiring#Aluminum_wiring_upgrades/repairs

While the AlumiConns are very nice "bus bar" alternative to wire nuts--And Aluminum/Copper rated "purple" wire nuts are temporary fixes only--I am not sure why you would use AlumiConns on a copper only wiring system...

As far as I know, wire nuts work fine with copper/copper wiring systems.

-Bill

mcgivor

Haven't used those exact ones, but have used Burndy in the past, excellent product, everything we used needed to be CSA or UL listed.

It appears that one is rated for 300 18-10 Al or 9 Cu so should be good for 30A

mike95490

I have used some, and they are tin plated (or supposed to be) Tin is the same color as aluminum. When torque right, they work well

Photowhit

Yes that was my understanding as well, thinking it would make a nice alternative to a standard bus bar, sort of a floating insulated busbar.

I can wire it out side and then set in to the terminals. Once the strain relief in tightened down, there's not going to be much movement.

Tecnodave

I use a different brand of those for connecting live utility wires at 200 amps and 120-500 volts , better insulated. Most are tin plated aluminum and are pre-filled with anti oxidant. Legal for that use. Typically copper inside aluminum connectors don't fail if installed right. It's the aluminum wires that expand more and cause problems, Are you trying to use these on the inverters AC output? The transformer in the MagnaSine has an unusual wiring scheme and you cannot parallel the secondary windings if you have an PAE or AE variant of the MS4024. My MagnaSine is a split phase unit the MS4024AE, an earlier version of the PAE, The transformer inputs AND outputs cannot be connected togather, they must be 180 degrees out of phase! Not connected to two different sources and not using 2 of 3 phases of three phase power...... Very unusual is they can input 120 only and output 120/240 when in pass through. It's like using a Outback or Trace Autotransformer, it's built into the AE and PAE inverters.

When using the set screw connectors I tighten them, then 15-20 later tighten them again. When finishing the job, I tighten them again. Probably bigger than you have there, mine are $65 for three connectors for 2/0 wire. These are much safer for the live work installer using insulated T-handle Allen wrenches. Safety trumps cheaper connectors!

Tecnodave

@Photowitt

Let me know exactly what inverter you have, I have done several MagnaSine inverters both single phase and split phase , I understand them!

DO NOT BOND THE OUTPUTS TOGETHER if you have the split phase units. You will let out the magic smoke

MagnaSine uses the same bypass relay in all their units it is a double pole double throw relay. It is rated 30 amps per pole......so if you have a 120 only variant I.e. The MS4024 Yes parallel both input wires and both output wires t o get the maximum pass through power. The manuals are online at wind-sun under the listing for the model that you are using, I have all relevant manuals for the MS models on hand, I have never used the MM models.

david

Photowhit

This is the single phase version of the MS4024 (no 240), No problem connecting the output unless you will use The grid or a generator passing through the unit, the it limits the loads. These are tinned copper, max wire size 10 gauge.

Tecnodave

@Photowitt,

I should go back and verify once again, I just installed a MS2024 and I did parallel the inputs and outputs, you cannot connect a single phase unit to split phase power........there is only one winding on these units......not center tapped. The same winding is used both for the power input and power output! The relay isolates the two (input and output) .

Same with the split phase, only one double winding, common both to inverter mode and pass through / battery charging mode. In the split phase units you need to use both inputs and outputs , one for each phase! That is how they get 240 volts out with only one leg hot in (120 volts only). I haven't seen that in any other inverter, Outback does not do that, don't know about Schneider, Maintain systems with Schneider's but never had an issue with the inverters, almost bought one from wind-sun, but didn't, waiting for Rosie the Inverter.

I will PM you my phone number, call me if you are not sure about anythin, CALL ME! , I don't like the smell of smoke!

david

Wheelman55

Photowit. Try these. I’ve found them at Home Depot and Amazon. I’ve used the replacement inserts alone when connecting fine stranded to busses. Keeps the fine strands in a bunch.

https://www.amazon.com/Polaris-Insulated-Connector-Fine-Stranded-Conductor/dp/B00CTYPXBG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Polaris+Grey+4+wire&qid=1555207557&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/Grey_series.pdf

Photowhit

Thanks for the Suggestion @Wheelman55, I used these or rather just one of these. I didn't have any too finely stranded wire, I used some USE 2 - 7 strand and THHN single strand, So I could stay color coordinated, then used black hot, neutral and ground from some 3+1 THHN 10 gauge to carry to the E-Panel. I went to grab some 2+ground but couldn't find my 'stash'...lol. Guess having an un-used red hot isn't to code...

I may pull it apart and redo it some time soon. I had thought I should really repaint the inside of my power center as the Kilz mold resistant primer is starting to mold a bit after 7 years.