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ldizzel

Positive terminal one charge controller melted 2 batteries warm 2 batteries warm any ideas of causes

Estragon

A short circuit?

mcgivor

A loose connection either on the PC board or a terminal not tight enough are possible causes, the batteries would get warm dischargeing into where the heat was being generated. What size of a system do you have, dose the controller have load terminals, If so are they being used, when did this happen, whilst charging? .

Estragon

In the meantime, I highly recommend disconnecting the circuit.

Photowhit

ldizzel said:

Positive terminal one charge controller melted 2 batteries warm 2 batteries warm any ideas of causes

System specs, settings, battery types, pictures...

ldizzel

It happened  during the equalization stage I'm assuming As I only caught the tail lead of it when I got home Is a small a battery bank 75 W each charge controller was a 80 am MPPT capable 

ldizzel

8 battery bank75 each running 12v  System

mcgivor

Any overcurrent protection,  fuse or circuit breaker 

ldizzel

Most definitely the charge controllers toast When I touch the lead  For the batteries the terminal literally fell out

mcgivor

Sounds like a pc board failure, but without seeing, this is merely speculation
.edit  You have 8 12V batteries in parallel? 

ldizzel

No

Photowhit

ldizzel said:

No

System specs, settings, battery types, pictures...

ldizzel

Unfortunately not yet could a bad cell in the bank done this we only have 6 100w panels hook up 

Estragon

Yes, break the circuit,and figure it out later.

ldizzel

12 amp 600ah bank 600w panels  Vert a Max 3000 W Pearsinwave inverter 80amp cc 

westbranch

Were any of the wires/cables burnt?  If only in one place that is the most likely place you have a loose connection and it heated up !

Like this...

ldizzel

ldizzel

Yes 8 in parallel

ldizzel

Have 24  75ah each  batteries but do not have the panels to sustain them

ldizzel

Sorry guys I'm new to this trying to figure it out 

ldizzel

Ya just that one wire the pos to the bat

Photowhit

Okay with a quick search, you would find this is NOT an MPPT type charge controller. Reviews on Amazon, where the seller has updated there description to PWM.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749K6BYN/ref=asc_df_B0749K6BYN5393082/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0749K6BYN&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064505516&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14373563873442639055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023543&hvtargid=pla-379688682455

This guy does a video of it and describes his experiences;

https://youtu.be/UOWfNjxgZPQ

It looks like there is some information on setting up the charge controller here;

http://solarpowerheaven.us/sun-yoba-80a-lcd-solar-battery-regulator-charge-discharge-controller-12v-24v-with-usb/

It does say that it's "12V/24V Automatically distinguish voltage" which means you must hoof up the battery first before the solar panels, so it can determine the correct charging voltage.  It does say panel voltage to 48 volts. a low number for a 24 v capable MPPT type charge controller.

You don't tell us how your array (panels) were hooked up? All in parallel? I suspect you had them at least 2 in series? Other wise it would be hard for the array to create enough voltage and current to over power the battery bank.

Do you have a link to a manual?

ldizzel

I do appreciate it. I guess you get what you pay for LOL

mcgivor

Agreed, it's a fake MPPT of questionable/low quality, no inductor, mosfets relying on interference contact with "heat sink" back panel , poor soldering on minimal pc board, it's not surprising it failed. There should be laws to prevent the sale of misleading equipment, this could have resulted in a fire, or worse.

@ldizzel  Sorry about your misfortune, there are much better alternatives, perhaps this would be a good time to re design your system, many members will be helpful in getting the right equipment as well as offering suggestions on protection, conductor size and so forth. Having 8 parallel batteries is a recipe for disaster, if not configured correctly, I would suggest starting a new discussion, with a list of all current equipment, without  the fried controller, giving as many details as possible, panel specs, battery specs, load information. We all started at the beginning made mistakes, learned from them and pass information aquired  to those who need assistance.

Photowhit

If you bought it from some place that has  reputation to protect, I'd shoot for a return. I f you bought it on eBay, They have great protection for buyer! Particularly if they gave you bad information!

ldizzel

Do you have a wire  Diagram for the 8 batteies or better yet how many can I hook hook up with only 6 100w panels 
12v batteries  75ah each I have 24 all tgether 

ldizzel

The one I used Said perfect droll the one on top  is this good  or badbad

mcgivor

Read all about parrallel batteries in the link below, very useful information 
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

BB.

It appears that the bus bar connections overheated... That can be from improper torquing of the screw, loose screw, or if a little water dripped/condensed on the connection and corroded.

After you install your wiring, going through a month later, and again a year later, to retorque the connections is a good thing.

I cannot tell from the pictures, but it is possible that there is a design issue with the bus bar screws...

How much current do you usually pass through the cabling?

May be simply too much current (power) through the wiring and overheating the "weakest link" (the binding screw terminals).

For example, if you were running a 2,000 Watt load and 12 volt inverter:

• 2,000 Watts * 1/0.85 ac inverter eff * 1/10.5 volts battery cutoff = 224 Amps

And I like to derate NEC spec'ed wiring by 1.25x (0.80):

• 224 amps * 1.25 derating = 280 Amp branch circuit (wiring and fuse minimum)

That would be (ideally) a minimum of 4/0 cable:

https://lugsdirect.com/WireCurrentAmpacitiesNEC-Table-301-16.htm

And is approximately a 1/2 inch in diameter of copper:

http://www.southwire.com/ProductCatalog/XTEInterfaceServlet?contentKey=prodcatsheetsub19

This is serious copper wiring...

I don't think you can draw that amount of current/power from your battery bank (to run 2kWatts for a few hours, you would need at least a 800 AH @ 12 volt flooded cell lead acid battery bank).

Anyway, more or less, 1,200 to 1,800 watt AC inverter is about the maximum I would suggest for a 12 volt battery bus voltage... It takes too much copper to manage the high current needed for larger inverters (and keep the voltage drop low from battery to inverter--  ~0.5 volt at max current load maximum recommended allowed drop)..

-Bill

ldizzel

I know everything worked perfectly fine then one day I came home Charge controller was on 14.4 thats When it Burns up

ldizzel

 whatever went wrong was caused by the equalization process Not necessarily by but during