3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

pbartko
pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
I'm starting this thread to document the installation of a 3.36KW Grid Tied PV system I just started installing on our home. I've been planning this system now for approx 6 months and am just beginning the installation. I expect the project to be completed within 1-2 months. I’ll only be working on it weekends and a few evenings. I'll post updates here as I complete aspects of the project and will include photos.

It all began last summer when we decided to take the solar plunge. After looking at what is involved to design and install a PV system, I decided to give it a try myself. I estimated the project to cost $15,000 for all the hardware. Looking at the rebates and tax incentives really made the decision a no brainer. Federal tax credit of 30% takes off $4500. Our state of Maryland offers a solar grant of $4100, and our local county will reduce our property taxes by $2500 for one year. This brings the net cost for our system down to only $3900!

PV watts estimates our system to produce approx $600 of electricity to our electric supplier Baltimore Gas & Electric (BGE). We will also be generating 4 RECs a year that we can sell. The system will have a payback time in just a few short years.

It took 4 months for the state of Maryland to award our solar grant. There were delays due to Maryland using Federal Stimulus $$’s to fund the program. I finally received the grant in Jan. and then proceeded to start ordering the components. There are no suppliers in our area so most everything except for some of the basic electrical supplies, were ordered off the internet and delivered to our home.

Looking back on the delay, it actually was good for me. It gave me more time to learn and spec out the system. I feel much more confident in the design and components I’ve selected than I did a few months ago.

Next, I’ll describe the design of the system and components I’ve selected.

Please feel free to comment, I look forward to everyone’s feedback as I go along.

Thanks,

Pete B
«1

Comments

  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    System Design is as follows:

    Our home faces due south, with the front of our roof at a pitch of 20degrees. Our latitude is 39degress, however PVwatts indicates that this won’t affect system output much. We will be generating peak amounts in the summer when the afternoon sun will be normal to our panels. We will conversely generate less during the winter months. Our electric company BGE will install a new net metering meter. We can build a credit with BGE for up to one year to offset future usage. You can only receive credit up to the amount of electricity you use. If we generate more, we won’t get paid for it. That won’t be a problem, our household is all electric. We will actually only generate approx 25% of our annual electric use. I’d like to put a system larger than 3.36kW, but our roof is small and will not accommodate more panels.

    I will be using a single string of 16 Evergreen 210Watt panels. They will have an Voc=365VDC, Isc=12.2amps, Vmp=293VDC and Imp=11.5amps. They will be mounted on Unirac Rails and fixed to the roof using Eco-Fasten’s Green Fasten flashings. A Sola Deck combiner box will feed the electricity down into the attic. From the attic it will run through conduit into the attached garage. I’ll be mounting the Grid Tied Inverter to the wall in the garage next to an existing 60 amp subpanel. I’m going to use a 3000Watt SunnyBoy Inverter. I haven’t purchased it yet. I’d like to get one of the new high frequency models they are advertising. It has a much larger LCD display, built in Bluetooth and is also half the weight of their standard Inverter. According to SMA it will be available sometime in March. BGE requires us to have an external disconnect on the outside of the house. That will be mounted on the outside wall of the garage. Electricity will then be backfed into a 20amp breaker in the subpanel. A Sunny Beam will wirelessly monitor the system performance in the house.

    housewithpanels.jpg
    I’ve drawn our house and system up in CAD software to guarantee no issues when installing. Here you see what it will look like when installed on our home. It also helped with getting our local Home Owner’s Association’s approval.

    Next, I’ll start showing the install of the Green Fasten mounting feet / Flashing.

    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Yesterday, me and my son did the layout on the roof. We measured and determined the location for each of the mounting feet on the roof.

    After talking with the building inspector, I was surprised to find that our county does not currently require a building permit or inspection for solar panels mounted to you roof. He said that it will likely change this summer when they are changing some of the rules. I do need to get an electrical permit and inspection. That will be done by my electrician.

    While talking with a local solar system installer recently, he mentioned several repair jobs he was currently involved in. This winter in Maryland has been brutal, dumping 5 feet of snow in some areas. He has seen several systems fail from the weight of the snow. The evergreen panels can be installed with load ratings between 30-60lb/sqft depending on where you mount them. I’ve decided to mount the panels to give the maximum 60lb/sqft load rating. This requires being very precise with the location of the rails. They have to be mounted with an error of less than 1 inch. So we took our time and very carefully marked each mounts location. I was worried about having trouble locating the center of the rafters for drilling the lag bolt pilot holes. However, it was actually pretty easy just using a hammer and tapping the roof. I was able to locate them quite well.

    Photo of chalk marks

    Today I installed two of the four rows of mounts. Unirac's system designer indicated that for my system I would require mounts with a maximum spacing of 5 feet. Our rafters are 2 feet on center, so I am installing the mounts on ever other rafter (4 foot). I like the Green Fasten mount because it includes flashing and is triple sealed with rubber gaskets. I didn’t want to take the risk with just mounting L brackets to the roof and caulking them. These mounts need to last 20+ years and I don’t want any roof leaks from the 28 holes I am placing in it.

    greenfoot.jpg
    Here is the Green Fasten Foot

    greenfootmounted.jpg
    Here it is mounted to the roof

    rowsoffeet.jpg
    Here are the first two rows

    That’s it for today. This week, me and my electrician are meeting with the county electrical inspector to review my plans and get a permit. Wish us luck!

    Thanks,

    Pete B
  • newenergy
    newenergy Solar Expert Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    I can't really tell from the pic, and haven't used those particular flashing/mounts (but I've used quickmount which is similar), but I suspect you are supposed to get the flashing deeper into the shingle, perhaps by putting it under the shingles you are currently on top of and cutting them (the shingles) where necessary for the L bracket.

    The question is, in that gap between the shingles, can water get in and under the flashing?

    I'm sure you used sealant underneath and it probably won't leak, but if there is that spot, I'd either put sealant in the gap or even get a small roll of flashing and cut it out and get it under the higher shingle and covering that gap.

    thegap.jpg
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    it's even hard for me to tell how far up those go into the shingles above, but if it doesn't go farther up than the top of that gap it will almost certainly leak. he may have been better off putting it into the middle of the shingle above it if that is the case.
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    The flashing does go up under the shingles beyond the tab notch. Water can not get in under the flashing. Just for good measure, I also installed a ring of Geocell Tripolymer sealant around the pilot hole under the flashing. The tabs of the shingles are also sealed back down since I had to break the seal to get the flashing up under them.

    Pete B
  • newenergy
    newenergy Solar Expert Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Cool. That should be good then, or at least it would probably be good in California. I don't know about what snow and ice do to a roof.

    Keep posting and don't be discouraged if people are really critical. We mean well.

    Your layout looks good (around here the fire department wouldn't let you get that close to the ridge) and I like your choices for equipment.
  • solartek
    solartek Solar Expert Posts: 69 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install
    pbartko wrote: »
    System Design is as follows:
    <Lots of good design information snipped>

    I’ll be mounting the Grid Tied Inverter to the wall in the garage next to an existing 60 amp subpanel. I’m going to use a 3000Watt SunnyBoy Inverter. I haven’t purchased it yet. I’d like to get one of the new high frequency models they are advertising. It has a much larger LCD display, built in Bluetooth and is also half the weight of their standard Inverter. According to SMA it will be available sometime in March. BGE requires us to have an external disconnect on the outside of the house. That will be mounted on the outside wall of the garage. Electricity will then be backfed into a 20amp breaker in the subpanel. A Sunny Beam will wirelessly monitor the system performance in the house.

    Pete,
    Your electrical interconnection will not be code compliant. Using a 20A backfed breaker in a 60A rated sub panel violates NEC 690.64(B)2.

    Scott
  • newenergy
    newenergy Solar Expert Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install
    solartek wrote: »
    Pete,
    Your electrical interconnection will not be code compliant. Using a 20A backfed breaker in a 60A rated sub panel violates NEC 690.64(B)2.

    Scott

    If it's a 60A feeder breaker on a 60A panel, he could downsize that to 50A.
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Thank you solartek and newenergy, you are both correct. Because I am backfeeding into a 60A subpanel in a residential setting, I can only exceed the bus bar ratings by 20% or 12A. That limits me to 72A total. But if I switch the 60A breaker in my main panel to 50A, I'll limit the current to 70A (2A below the limit).

    Thanks for catching my oversight.

    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Inspection of the load center in the garage this evening indicates that it is actually rated for 125amps. There is a 60amp feed off of the main breaker panel to this load center located in the garage. So, as it turns out I won't be close to violating NEC 690.64(B)2, as the combined 60amp feed from the main panel and 20amp feed from the pv array will only be 80amps in a 125amp load center.

    thanks for the advice,

    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Update on progress,

    Yesterday my electrician and I met with the local electrical inspector. Ran through the plans with him to see if we need to make any changes. Only two minor issues came up.

    First the location of the AC disconnect. Inspector was concerned with it being located on opposite side of house from the meter. I had already contacted BGE to ask about this. They said that they prefer it to be near the meter but it can be located in another readily accessible area as long as I place a placard at the meter clearly indicating the disconnects location. Inspector was happy with that.

    The second item was the type of conduit used for the DC conductors from the roof down to the DC disconnect located on the inverter. I was planning on using flexible MC but he wanted conduit. Not a problem.

    I've attached a PDF of the electrical schematic to this reply.

    I was concerned about the weather. It is supposed to rain for the next 3 days. I didn't want my chalk lines to get washed off the roof. I worked yesterday evening and finished installing all the mounts. Next it is onto installing the rails (after the rain).

    Thanks,

    Pete B
  • newenergy
    newenergy Solar Expert Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    On the single line the SMA3000US should have L1, L2, N, and equipment ground coming out of the AC side.
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Well the rain finally stopped this morning. This afternoon, I was able to install the Unirac mounting rails on the L feet I installed last week. The Unirac rails are 7 ft long (I ordered them less than 8 ft so they are UPS shippable) and I needed to lift them up onto the roof. I decided to bundle them together into groups of four rails and lifted them onto the roof using a rope. That went smooth and didn’t require as many trips up and down the ladder.

    railfootcloseup.jpg
    The rails are mounted to the L feet using a stainless steel bolt, washer and nut. The bolt head slides in the rail slot but doesn’t turn, making it easy to tighten the nut with a socket wrench.

    splicebar.jpg
    Splicing bars are used to connect adjacent rails to each other. The splicing bar is an extrusion that slides in the rail slot and it attaches using four stainless steel self drilling screws.

    railrows.jpg
    Here you see all four rails mounted.

    Next step will be to lay the grounding conductor and attach to the frames. I hope to get that done sometime this week.

    Thanks,

    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    We are making progress. Between last evening and this afternoon, I installed the Soladeck combiner box and the gound wires on the roof.

    I decided to use a Soladeck because of the integral flashing. First a small section of the roofing shingles are cut to make way for the box. Then I marked the hole location for the conduit that will be mating to the box from inside the attic. Then I removed the box, drilled a hole for the conduit and replaced the box. The box is then screwed down and I used Tri-polymer sealant to hold the shingles back down.
    soladeckopen.jpg
    Photo of open Soladeck, note the Delta lightning surge protector and the touch safe fuse holder.
    soladeckclosed.jpg
    Photo of closed Soladeck.
    layinlug.jpg
    Then I mounted a layin ground lug on each 7’ section of the mounting rails. I used a #19 drill bit to predrill the hole for the 10-32 ground screw. The layin lugs are the plated copper ones with stainless screws (not the aluminum ones, don’t use those, the copper wire will cause corrosion).
    rowsofground.jpg
    Starting at the combiner box, I ran a single 6AWG bare copper conductor along each rail and then over to the neighboring rail in a serpentine pattern. I finally ended back at the combiner box.
    splitnut.jpg
    I connected the end of the ground wire to the start using a split bolt. This gives a short two paths back to the combiner box.

    Next the fun begins, we actually mount the panels to the rails. I’ll also begin running the conduit from the combiner box, through the attic, down into the garage.

    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    It took all afternoon but I have one row of panels installed. With the help of a friend, we lifted the panels up onto the two story roof. I didn’t like the idea of carrying the panels up an extension ladder. These 210Watt panels are large, 40”x65” and are difficult to get a good hold on. I rigged up a pulley at the top of an extension ladder. I clamped two pieces of wood to the ladder approx 6 ft below the pulley. I hooked two steel S-hooks into mounting holes on the edges of the solar panel frame. Attaching the rope to these S-hooks allowed me to lift the panel up the ladder by pulling the other end of the rope. Once the panel reached the top of the ladder, it was held in place by the two pieces of wood clamped to the top. It was a very safe way of raising the panels onto the roof.

    Once on the roof, we mounted the panels to the Unirac rails. I used Unirac’s drop in, top mount clamps. They have a T-bolt that drops into the T-slot on top of the rail. The clamp is then put onto the bolt and held in place with a nut. Since the bolt and nut are stainless steel, Unirac recommends using anti-sieze compound on the bolt threads to prevent galling. I placed anti-sieze on each bolt before threading the nut on. For grounding the frames to the rails, I used Unirac’s grounding clips between the panel frames and mounting rails.

    endclamp.jpg
    The end of the row starts with end clamps.

    midclamp.jpg
    The middle of the row gets middle clamps that clamp neighboring frames.

    row1panels.jpg
    Here you see the first row mounted.

    Lastly, we used UV rated zip ties to strap the conductor cables to the mounting rails. I had planned on using stainless steel loop clamps, but quickly realized it would not work. The loop clamps only hold a single cable. In order to prevent the cables from touching the roof, I needed to loop them. I would have had to use 6 loop clamps per connection just to hold the cables. And mounting them after the panels were in place would be next to impossible. I resorted to using zip ties. I’ll make it a point to check on them each year when I am cleaning out the gutters.
    cableclamps.jpg
    Here you see the cables strapped to the mounting rail.

    Hopefully next weekend we will have the final row installed.

    Pete B
  • audredger
    audredger Solar Expert Posts: 272 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Thus far that looks like a well thought out and professional installation. You should be proud! Keep up with the good work.
  • newenergy
    newenergy Solar Expert Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Looks great. Can you take some pics of the ladder/pulley set up?
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    I had to take the ladder assembly back down for the week. I'll take some pics when I set it back up on friday to install the rest of the panels.

    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    As promised, here are some photos of my ladder rig for raising the solar panels up to the roof. To begin, I extended the ladder and flipped it over to the back side.

    ladder3.jpg
    Here you see a photo looking up at the ladder. I put some tape along the edges of the ladder for the panel to slide on. This prevents the aluminum ladder from scratching the panel frame.

    ladder5.jpg
    I have mounted a pulley at the top rung.

    ladder4.jpg
    In order to create a ledge for the panel to rest on at the top, I bolted two wooden extensions onto the lower ladder section. When the panel reaches the top, the bottom if its frame will simply pop onto the top of the wood extensions and sit there.

    ladder6.jpg
    At the bottom, two steel S hooks are tied to ends of a rope. A pulley is attached to the center of the rope. The S hooks hook into holes in the back of the solar panel frame.

    ladder1.jpg
    A rope is tied off at the top of the ladder, next to the mounted pulley. It runs down the ladder, through the pulley at the solar panel, and back up the ladder. It then threads over the top pulley and back down behind the ladder. This double pulley system gives a 2:1 mechanical advantage, making it easier to pull up these large panels.

    It works great and is safer than carrying panels up a ladder.

    Pete B
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Thanks for the photos !!
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • drees
    drees Solar Expert Posts: 482 ✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Nice! Looks a lot easier than lugging a 40+lb panel on one arm/shoulder/head while climbing a 2-story ladder.
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Yeah, It works great. I got the idea from a roofing contractor. He had a rig attached to an extension ladder to raise bundles of singles up to the roof. His was actually powered by a small motor and had a shelf. You place the bundle on the shelf, hit a button and zip, up the ladder it went.

    My rig isn't motorized, but it I prefer it that way. I'm lifting very valuable panels and prefer to do in a very controlled fashion. Motors tend to be very unforgiving.


    Pete B
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    This morning a friend helped install the last row of panels on the roof. It all went very smoothly, much easier than the first row. Once the first row is installed, the top row of panels can rest against the bottom row during the installation. Actually, we placed a 1/4” spacer between the two rows as suggested by Evergreen to allow for expansion. We also found it easier to loosely pre-install the plastic cable clamps on the rails before placing the panels down. This eliminates a lot of fumbling later underneath the panels (helps keep the skin on my knuckles).

    row2panels1.jpg
    Here is a photo of all the panels mounted on the roof. We took care to install the grounding clips under each frame clamp, use anti-sieze compound on the stainless steel threads and torque them down to 10 ft-lbs as suggested by Unirac.

    row2panels2.jpg
    Here is a photo from the opposite corner. You can see the Soladeck combiner box in the far top left corner.

    soladeckopen2.jpg
    The Soladeck combiner box has three cord grips at the bottom. From right to left is the: panel ground, string negative conductor, string positive conductor. Testing the open circuit voltage (Voc) yielded 354VDC. According to Evergreen Voc max should equal 365VDC, pretty close! I placed a wire nut on each panel conductor to protect them until I make the final hookup to the inverter wires.

    cableclamp2.jpg
    Also, last week I used some plastic cable ties from a big box store. They were pretty thin in cross-section (50lb rated), I doubt they would last long. I found some Heavy Duty ones (120lb rated) at Fastenal. I replaced the ones I installed last week and used the new heavy duty ones on this row.

    That is it for now. Next is running conduit through the attic, down to the garage. That will have to wait until we get back from vacation for a week.

    Pete B
  • BajaGringo
    BajaGringo Solar Expert Posts: 40 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Very nice and clean looking setup!
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    I’m back from vacation. We had a wonderful time in sunny Florida.

    This morning’s weather was perfect for working in the attic, cool and cloudy. I spent the day running conduit down from the combiner box on the roof to the garage. All conduit is 3/4” EMT. It was slow going because of the tight quarters in the attic. I had to measure, go downstairs and cut and bend some conduit and then go back up and test fit several times. I also ran the conduit in the garage and mounted the AC disconnect on the outer garage wall. Here are some pictures.

    conduitattic1.jpg
    Here is the conduit attached to the combiner box on roof. I added a crossbrace between the rafters to restrain the conduit.

    conduitattic2.jpg
    Conduit runs down into a dead space above a stairwell.

    conduitgarageattic.jpg
    And turns into a junction box mounted in the garage attic. Conduit then runs down the wall, into the garage.

    ACdisconnect.jpg
    This is the AC disconnect mounted on the outside of the garage.

    The inverter I ordered (Sunnyboy 3000US) will be delivered next week. I ran most of the conduit along the walls inside the garage but could not finish the runs without the inverter. I’ll take pictures of the conduit inside the garage after finishing it next week. Then it’s on to pulling wire!

    Pete B
  • drees
    drees Solar Expert Posts: 482 ✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Looks good! I might suggest adding at least one more clamp on the EMT doesn't hurt to help keep it from moving around should someone decide to grab it while climbing through the attic. I would like to see a mounting point every 3-4 ft or so at least (I'm sure there's a NEC code for that that a pro might know of!)
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    i know staples for romex are at least every 3 feet. not too sure of conduit.
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    I received the Sunnyboy 3000US Inverter Yesterday. Today, I mounted it on the wall and finished the conduit runs into the Inverter. The only trouble was the weight of the inverter. It is just under 90lbs. But it was fairly easy to install. Just mount the supplied bracket to the wall studs and then lift the inverter up, onto the bracket.

    inverterandconduit.jpg
    Inverter is on the top, with DC disconnect below. Left conduit will bring in DC wires from the combiner box on the roof. Right conduit connects to a junction box. Conduit on right of junction box goes to AC disconnect outside. Conduit from left of junction box goes to load center.

    Tomorrow I will finish connecting the conduit to the load center and begin to pull wires. Can’t wait, the system is almost finished!

    Pete B
  • newenergy
    newenergy Solar Expert Posts: 291 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    "EMT shall be securely fastened in place at least every 3m (10 ft). In addition, each EMT run between terminations points shall be securetly fastened within 900 mm (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other tubing termination."

    There are a few exceptions. The support rules for EMT are pretty lax and you should probably do more than is required.
  • pbartko
    pbartko Solar Expert Posts: 37 ✭✭
    Re: 3.36kW Residential DIY GT system Install

    Yesterday I completed the conduit run into the load center.

    Between yesterday and today, I completed all the wiring. My son and I pulled the DC wires up to the roof and the AC wires in the garage. It wasn’t easy pulling 10AWG gage wires in the ¾” conduit, but we managed. I installed a new 20 amp 2 pole breaker in the load center. Connecting all the wires was the last step. The system should be ready for commissioning. Before that, I’m going to have my electrician come back and look over the system to make sure everything is correctly wired before throwing the switches.

    invertercomplete.jpg
    Here is a photo of the finished inverter.

    loadcenter.jpg
    Here is a photo of the load center with the conduit run. Need to do a bit of drywall repair to finish.

    After the checkout by the electrician and commissioning, we can schedule the electrical inspection.

    Pete B