Charge Controller won't go into Float.

Ok, so I recently returned to my Old Controller to monitor my Batteries. The C40, doesn't have the Meter.
It's a Coleman/Sunforce 30A Digital. I Hydrometer every cell, all showed "Full" 1 Battery was a little down but well into the Full.
Everything was good, showing 15-20A charging. Topped up to "Float" on my Generator before bed time. 13.8V, settled to 13.5v by 11:00pm. Controller lights off.
I woke up at 5:00AM, and it dropped to 12.8v Everything shut off? The Controller was showing "Charging" even before Sunrise, But only @ 0.1a
I watched it Everything shut off until 11:00, it eventually got to 14.7V and 5.0a, Never hit Float?
So, I don't understand Why it can't exceed 5.0a and 14.7v?
It's a Coleman/Sunforce 30A Digital. I Hydrometer every cell, all showed "Full" 1 Battery was a little down but well into the Full.
Everything was good, showing 15-20A charging. Topped up to "Float" on my Generator before bed time. 13.8V, settled to 13.5v by 11:00pm. Controller lights off.
I woke up at 5:00AM, and it dropped to 12.8v Everything shut off? The Controller was showing "Charging" even before Sunrise, But only @ 0.1a
I watched it Everything shut off until 11:00, it eventually got to 14.7V and 5.0a, Never hit Float?
So, I don't understand Why it can't exceed 5.0a and 14.7v?
Comments
Second system 1890W 3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.
5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
The voltage when charging will be higher than resting voltage to allow the current to flow from the panels to the battery bank. Here's some info on lead acid battery charging;
Sounds like you have been using a car hydrometer, perhaps with colored beads? If you have one with a colored range, and it's in the good range (green) it doesn't necessarily fully charged. While starting Specific gravity differs between battery brands, most are 1.280-1.300. The charge controller can't 'see' the capacity of your battery bank, but it can see the amps passing through it. It can also not see the battery bank capacity. They will often switch to float when they see a minimal amount of current flowing to the battery bank.
So what is the size of your array, size of the battery bank...
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
I am only running 400w Array, Batteries Vary (I know) 2/ 105Ah 12v are 3 years old, 1/ 105Ah 2 years old, 1/ 1 year old and 2/ 230Ah 6v added this year.
I was gifted a Xantex C40, which I hooked up and set at 13.6 Float/14.5 Bulk. It ran 2 weeks before switching back to the Coleman/Sunforce, for the Meter vs Blinking LED. The C40 would get to Solid LED @ 14.5v so that also makes sense. https://sunforceproducts.com/products/30-amp-12-volt-digital-solar-charge-controller/
Now I know that my Array, doesn't meet my Battery Storage (weekend Usage) but I am planning adding a second Array, and building towards that. Also my Charger (just a Battery Charger that starts when Generator is running) has a Equalization Mode, but not capable for this much battery amperage.
So my next Steps are, Check Tuesday Night, to see if the system reached Float. Friday Night, Isolate the lowest, Hydrometer battery and run an Equalization on that one only. Saturday Equalize the second 3yo battery. and see where I stand.
or
Can I just run a lengthy Equalization on all of them? Or a Shock Cleaning @ 80A Engine Start feature on 1 at a time?
So I disconnected and charged separately my 2 Oldest and suspicious Batteries, Everything checked out on the Smart Charger without it switching to Equalize to attain "Full Charge".
Both days I was at the Cabin to monitor the system were High Sunlight Days, charging 20A, but the Controller went as high as 14.9V, still never went to Float. Even when the only draw was the Inverter (fridge compressor wasn't running).
So I am thinking this.
The only changes from a Working State were "The 2 New 6V Golf Cart batteries added. And The Old Charge Controller with Meter was Reconnected"
Should I check the New Batteries? or Is the old Charge Controller Messed Up?
The Adjustment pots of the C series chargers were a source of problems in the mid 1990's. Not much chance of making this obsolete charger do more than what you have done. If you measure the end amps and it is less than 2% of your 20 hour rate of the battery, it is full.
After that you are just boiling water unless it goes to float.
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This CC is s Coleman Branded SunForce, PWM 30A. It has the readout, I don't have a Meter for the C Series yet.
And yes the Batteries were Boiling at that point.
Ok here is a Thought.
Run my current Array to the C40, possibly add an Amp Gauge to the input. Run the C40 to the Batteries. Disconnect the Array from the Coleman, but leave the Coleman hooked to the Batteries for a Volt Meter. How does that sound?