Using a propane generator to charge batteries

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Lois
Lois Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭✭
Our home uses the electricity grid for our supply of power.  We have many times in the winter when trees blow down causing power outages for hours even days.  We own a golf cart and could bring the batteries in when winer arrives.  We could then use the batteries to store power which would be usable during a power outage. We have the charger to recharge the batteries once they are drained and the power is restored. WHAT WE DO NOT HAVE IS HOW TO  THE CHARGER  WITHOUT THE USE OF A GOLF CART. I would like to know what the process/connections  would be to create a connection in the house that would allow us to recharge the batteries when our 6000 watt propane generate its running.  The generator is outside.  We run it for shot periods of time to cook and run the freezers an fridges. We use led lights during outages unless the generator is running.  THE BATTERIES ARE NEEDED TO RUN OUR WASSER PUMPS WHEN THEE GENERATOR IN NOT RUNNING. WHICH ALLOWS THE WOOD FIRED BOILER TO HEAT THE HOME.  Our temperature at this point would be 0 to  minus 5 celsius. We have 5 Wasser Pumps type GDP15-65F which are single phase. 115V, 60 Hz,IP44, TF110 degrees centigrade Close H, 10uf.  There is also a table that  reads 111- P1(W)100- 1(A) .9 then 11 - P1(W)70- 1(A) .7 and I am guessing level 1 - P1(W)55- 1(A) .5 PLUS a controller which reads - Taco - SR504, 4 zone switching relay, with no other information printed on it. My questions are 1) HOW TO CONNECT THE GENERATOR TO THE BATTERIES TO RECHARGE THEM 2) WHAT TO PURCHASE TO CONNET THE BATTERIES TO THE PUMP CIRUIT.  We have a small portable FUELESS generator which we can be fully charged in 1 hour but it will only run the heating system 1 hour which is  not enough.  My husband has wired in cord so we can plug the pump system into the portable generator. If this helps it could also be used to plug the fully charged batteries into the system.  Does anyone have any information as to how we could achieve this?

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  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    What I understand you are describing, is essentially a large UPS system, like a computer would use.

    For simple circulation pumps that consume small ( less than 100w each ) this might be affordable.  If there are larger pumps, things start getting more expensive quickly.

    Do I understand correctly, that you have a 48V golf cart ?   How  do you normally recharge the cart?

    You can obtain a 48V inverter, that you can connect to the golf cart, and then plug the boiler system into it.

    If you use a plug in charger for the golf cart, simply plug that charger into the generator when its running. Beware of the total load the generator can power, a 48v charger can consume a lot of power

    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Welcome to the forum Lois,

    In general, it is a good thing to start with understanding your loads. For example, a Kill-a-Watt type meter is very helpful. Plug your AC load(s) into the meter, measure the average Watts (power requirements--Like Miles per Hour). And measure you loads as they operate (hopefully, on a cold day for 24-48 hours, such as when you need to run the heating while the Mains are out)--Watt*Hours -- sort of like Miles Driven.

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=kill+a+watt+meter

    There are "whole house" energy meters too--Here is one example:

    https://www.theenergydetective.com/

    Say you have 5 water pumps that take 0.9 amps each @ 115 VAC, and run for 12 hours per day. And guess that the rest of the system (electronics, fan, etc. that run the boiler) takes another 2.0 amps (pure guesses, just to show how the math works):
    • 5 pumps * 0.9 amps * 115 VAC * 12 hours per day = 6,210 Watt*Hours per day (pumps)
    • 2 amps * 115 Amps * 12 hours per day = 2,760 Watt*Hours per day (balance of system)
    • Total = 8,970 WH per day (that is a lot of energy)
    Lets guess your Golf cart takes 6 volt @ ~220 AH batteries of some sort... To run the above load for 1 days with 50% maximum battery discharge (for longer battery life), the minimum number of batteries needed would be:
    • 8,970 WH per day * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/24 volt battery bank * 1/0.50 max discharge = 880 AH @ 24 volt battery bank.
    Or, the number of 6 volt @ 220 AH battery required would be... 4x 6 volt batteries in series (for 24 volt bank) * 4 parallel strings (for 880 AH), or 4s*4p= 16x 6 volt @ 220 AH golf cart batteries...

    In general, that is probably a) many more batteries than in a typical golf cart, and b) many golf carts are wired not natively wired for 24 volt operation.

    The above is a bunch of guesses, and may be wildly wrong... But on the surface, it would appear that such a battery system to run a radiant heat system of your size would not be very practical--Relatively large battery bank, does not use your "native golf cart" batteries optimally, and you may be better off just running the heat, refrigerators, etc. on the genset using your normal schedule (may be six hours in the morning and six hours in the evening)... And make a much smaller AC power system that can run your LED lighting, LED TV, cell phone charger, perhaps an RV Water pump (if you pump from a cistern or similar), etc...

    A "small" battery+inverter system may run 1,000 WH per day (1/8th the size of the mythical radiant heat system) during "quiet times). and use the genset to recharge the battery bank during the morning/evening.
    • 1,000 WH * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/12 volt battery bank * 1/0.50 max discharge = 196 AH @ 12 volts
    • or 2 series * 1 string = 2x 6 volt @ 220 AH "golf cart" batteries for a 12 volt @ 220 AH battery bank
    Such a system with a ~300 Watt AC inverter would let you have enough AC power for LED Lighting and odds and ends, and just continue to run your 6 kWatt genset for your main loads.

    An alternative would be to look for a smaller AC genset if your average loads are much less than ~3,000 Watts (most gasoline/propane gensets are most efficient at 50% or larger rated loads--Below 50%, the fuel flow remains close to 50% as loads drop to 25% to near 0% loads). Oversizing a genset can be a real fuel hog.

    Generally, Solar (and genset) supplied AC power is something like $1 to $2+ per kWH vs whatever your utility rates may be (typically $0.10 to $0.40 per kWH--Those high rates are usually found in Hawaii and California--You are are up in BC Canada area?).

    Conserving power (and fuel usage) during off grid operations can save you a bunch of money. May not be a big deal for a couple days of winter outages--But for Weeks+ at a time, besides the simple expense of fuel (6 kW propane genset may take something like 1-2 GPH of propane--Just guessing), the cost of fuel and fuel storage is more of an issue:
    • 1 gph propane * 24 hours per day * 14 days = 336 gallons of propane for 2 week outage
    A much smaller eu2200i Honda gasoline genset may run your home on 2-5 gallons of gasoline per day vs the (again guessing) 24 gallons of propane (or more) per day. And there are propane conversions for some of the smaller generators.

    Add storage and delivery issues (getting truck, typically higher costs during winter for fuel, etc.), "freezing" the propane take (if pulling vapor from tank in cold weather, smaller tank... Can drop propane pressure to zero PSI at times)--All come into play here.

    I am sorry I did not answer your question directly... Really need to understand your power needs first to do a paper system design first, then figure out what hardware is needed to run it.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    FWIW, I can run a 4 zone + heat exchanger pump system and an on-demand propane water heater for an infloor radiant system off a 12v 300w PSW inverter like what Bill mentioned. 

    This inverts the DC battery power to AC for pumps etc:
    https://www.solar-electric.com/morningstar-si-300-115v-ul-inverter.html

    This charges batteries using generator AC power:
    https://www.solar-electric.com/dls-45.html


    Obviously, your system may differ, and metering it with a kill-a-watt or whatever would be a good start.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • Lois
    Lois Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭✭
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    Wow thank you all very much.  Yes I do live in BC Canada.  I have 6@6volt Golf Cart Batteries. = 36 Volt System available for storage. If I understood Bill correctly that should run my 4 zone radiant heat system for ?? 24 hours then I could run the generator to recharge the batteries. I had planned to make good use of the 6000 was buy cooking and or running the fridges and deep freezers while charging the batteries,  I hope that would work.  If I understood the scenarios It would seem plausible that running the generator twice a day for 2-3 hours should recharge the batteries, keeping the radiant heat flowing for a 24 hour period and allow us some warm food.
    Recharging the batteries - I could haul the batteries up stairs, replace them into the golf cart and plug the golf cart into the generator twice a day.  That would definitely work to charge them, however, I am not sure how long it takes to charge them.  Does anyone know that? The other thing I thought of I could buy a used wiring harness from a golf cart repair place.  I am positive that would work and be very easy.
    My biggest concern is that I have no I idea how to connect the charged batteries to the radiant heat system.  Sure wish I could see pictures of this type of set up.  I have seen many for whole house requirements, but I think I looking for something less complicated.  I know this is a patch job situation, but it may only get used 3-4 times a winter.  
    So what I have available to use is 6@6 volt batteries.  If I carry them in to the basement then I need a way to connect them to the charger which I could plug in to a wall outlet being supplied with power by the generator to recharge them while the generator is running.  And I need a way to connect them to radiant heat system.  Like I said we have a cord  wired into that system.  I need the information from the batteries to the inverter then to a receptacle into which we will insert the wall plug//cord mention before.  
    The other concern I have is could I harm the batteries with the 6000 wt generator?  
    As you may have guessed I am doing research for my Husband, Once I think I have found the solution he my still have a few questions.  I hope this is ok with you folks.  Thanks again for all the time you spent replying to my post.  I really appreciate it.

  • 706jim
    706jim Solar Expert Posts: 515 ✭✭✭✭
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    Batteries generally don't do well with heaters. Not for any extended time anyway. I think that hauling 6 GC's upstairs would get old fast.....
    Island cottage solar system with 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter, Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller 8 Trojan L16's. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge. My 30th year.
  • Lois
    Lois Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭✭
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    Yes Jim I agree, I dread the thought of hauling batteries up and down stairs but it would be better than being cold.  Having had a few hours sleep, I think I need to re-phrase my information.  Assuming the 6@6 volt batteries I own, connected in series to for a string, would run my 4 zone heat pump system, assuming I run nothing other than the radiant system, and assuming I can buy a harness to connect my charger to the batteries once they are in the basement, WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST INVERTER TO BUY AND WOULD I NEED TO BUY ANY OTHER COMPONENTS?  
    WOULD IT BE BETTER TO TO RUN ONE 36 VOLT STRING OR 2 @18 VOLT STRINGS?  I do not understand the difference. ie pro and con for 1@36volt or 2@18 volt.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    One of the issues is that 36 Volt Solar/Inverter systems are pretty rare... 36 volts used to be common for mid-size boat, but today not so much.

    So, finding a 36 Volt AC inverter is a bit more work. The higher end solar charge controllers can be programmed (generally, as I recall) for a 36 volt bank... But then finding a 36 VDC battery charger is a bit rare too (but, you obviously have a 36 volt cart, so you should already have a 36 volt charger--But need to know more about the specifications first to see if compatible with your application and genset).

    Typically, you would "install" the battery bank, AC battery charger, AC inverter all together "downstairs". Ideally, you want to keep the battery bank >~40F, for optimum storage capacity. Although, flooded cell lead acid batteries can cycle to near 0F pretty well, just a reduction in apparent Amp*Hour capacity being so cold (Fully charged FLA batteries freeze something like -80F. Full "dead" FLA batteries freezer near 32F--So you do need to keep the batteries something like 50% State of Charge or higher, and/or keep them "warmer" so they don't freeze and get ruined, cracked cases, etc.).

    706Jim's comment about batteries and heaters is, I think, more directed to "electric/resistance/hot wire" heaters. Your power is for a few smaller pumps for a radiant hot water system, and that is not as big of issue.

    Generally, a deeply discharged FLA battery bank can take 8-12 hours to fully recharged. However, if you discharge less, and have a large enough AH rated battery charger, you can fully recharge them in 6-8 hours.

    But, in any case, you do not need to "fully" recharge FLA batteries every day... If you cycle them (in your case) daily even between 50% and 80%+ state of charge on daily genset use, that is fine. And wait to "fully charge" until your utilty power is restored.

    We are kind of shooting blindly at your system until we know how much every, per day, your system will use. If you can get by with 2-4 6 volt @ 200 AH "golf cart" batteries, you probably would be better off installing them permanently in the garage/basement/crawl space/etc. Install the AC inverter and AC battery charger there too (with enough space to check the electrolyte level in the batteries once per month).

    And only run your "backup" 120 VAC to point of use (heating pumps, perhaps some lighting circuits (LED ceiling lights) and TV/Cell phone/laptop/networking 120 VAC power receptacles (you can even setup your garage battery system to automatically switch between utility power and inverter power very cheaply/easily. Do not plan on running your DC Battery bank wiring more than than 5-10 feet... low voltage DC Battery buses are higher current and need very heavy copper wiring to keep the voltage drop low.

    A good example of a home made battery backup power system (and its evolution from simple small project to something larger) is by poster 2ManyToyz. Scroll 1/2 way down his website for the solar/battery projects (lots of pictures):

    http://2manytoyz.com/

    And, I suggest you that you get some sort of Kill-a-Watt meter (Amazon link above) and measure the actual amount of energy you want to use. Once you have that information, then the paper design of your system can begin... .And you can do the tradeoffs of using batteries from your golf cart, or making a separate battery bank.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    +1 on measuring the loads, both point in time (watts) and over time (watt-hours per day).

    One possibility would be a voltage converter on the 36v cart bank to a more common inverter DC voltage.  Need to understand loads first though.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • Lois
    Lois Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭✭
    edited February 2020 #10
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    Thank you all for responding to my post.  I have been away and I had to order a meter in order to answer some of your question.  To re-cap.  I have at my disposal 6-6v golf cart batteries.  I do not  have use all of them or I could purchase more.  I have a golf cart charger which I could wire in for charging them.  I have a 6000 watt propane generator for charging the batteries. I only need them when we have power outages, as I run a wood fired boiler to heat my house.  Should the power go out when the boiler is loaded with wood, my boiler could go into an overheat situation while my house freezes! not good.  I ran a 24 hour test, with night time temp at -4, daytime and +4.   the meter read, 118 Volts, 60 Hertz, Watts 179m PF9.95.  I have 3 zones, when 1 is demanding the the system uses 1.53 A, when 2 zones are demanding 2.37A and when 3 zones are demanding 3.10A, which is 4 @.8amp pumps. In 24 hour test I ran I used 4.98KW.  Is it feasible to fun this heat/pump system using a 24 volt battery combination, and if so about how long would the batteries last?  I realize this would depend of the ???strength of the batteries (new or old) and the charge.  Would  a 48V system be better, run my system longer, or should I abandon this idea all together?
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    I'll post my watt hours comparison chart for batteries.  5kwh is not huge, 8 golf cart batteries wired in series for 48V, would experience 50% discharge in one day,  If you ran a 2-3kw generator 12 hours for charging and loads, you could get by with a 24V system of 4 batteries.




    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,824 ✭✭✭✭
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    Hauling batteries up and down a staircase would really be fantastic exercise. I'd give it low marks for safety however. 

    I probably got thrown off by the all the data. But I'm guessing a 24 volt system would suffice for the "power down" situations that you have back up power for. 
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
  • Lois
    Lois Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭✭
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    Softdown solar expert, We would only carry them up and down stairs once per year.  I know that would be  a drag but it seems like a good solution given the fact that we only have 6-8 power outages per winter win 2-3 of them lasting than 6-8 hours. I think my next job will be to go to golf cart wreckers to see if we can get the female wiring harness (within golf carts) and 2 more batteries.  Once we have this done and our 8 batteries/48 volt system in place, what would you recommend I buy as an inverter? 
  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,824 ✭✭✭✭
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    Lois said:
    Softdown solar expert, We would only carry them up and down stairs once per year.  I know that would be  a drag but it seems like a good solution given the fact that we only have 6-8 power outages per winter win 2-3 of them lasting than 6-8 hours. I think my next job will be to go to golf cart wreckers to see if we can get the female wiring harness (within golf carts) and 2 more batteries.  Once we have this done and our 8 batteries/48 volt system in place, what would you recommend I buy as an inverter? 
    I think Outback and Schneider are both great. There are some here with more experience than I. I'm kind of tight - not sure I would buy top of the line for power outages. What do you guys think? Referring to the old regulars here....
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
  • mountainman
    mountainman Registered Users Posts: 439 ✭✭
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    (Imho)   when I  bought my 4 gc batterys
     I used the hand cart from  the truck to the shed maybe 50 feet. Lead is heavy Batteries are awkward.  Id Hate  to slip on the stairs while carrying  a container of acid.
    Would it be possible to leave the batteries in the golf cart?
     Some times for just back up
    A small generator is a simpler cheaper way.
    2kw array 6 345 q cells  make sky blue 60 cc
     6 230ah GC @36 volts 
    18 amp accusense charger. 3650 champion 
  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,824 ✭✭✭✭
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    I might be way off, I'd estimate a 32F lead acid battery to lose 25% of its capacity and 50% at 0F. You can leave them in the cold as opposed to lithium which kind of dies below freezing in my experience. You have a garage?
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
  • softdown
    softdown Solar Expert Posts: 3,824 ✭✭✭✭
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    Lois said:
    Softdown solar expert, We would only carry them up and down stairs once per year.  I know that would be  a drag but it seems like a good solution given the fact that we only have 6-8 power outages per winter win 2-3 of them lasting than 6-8 hours. I think my next job will be to go to golf cart wreckers to see if we can get the female wiring harness (within golf carts) and 2 more batteries.  Once we have this done and our 8 batteries/48 volt system in place, what would you recommend I buy as an inverter? 
    This says you have 2-3 outages/year lasting more than 6-8 hours. I'd just run the essentials off of a genset for that. Or the existing GC batteries as well. 
    First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with  FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries
  • Lois
    Lois Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭✭
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    Written by - softdownsoftdown Solar Expert Posts: 2,896 ✭✭✭✭ 
    I might be way off, I'd estimate a 32F lead acid battery to lose 25% of its capacity and 50% at 0F. You can leave them in the cold as opposed to lithium which kind of dies below freezing in my experience. You have a garage?

    Yes we have a work shop but it has no heat in fact we leave the doors open most of the time for convince of getting to the tools etc.  I know batteries cannot be left in the cold, so my husband keeps them hooked up to a battery charges all winter. I had no idea how heavy they were!!!  One thought was to move them into the boiler room which is beside the garage, only about 10 ft to cary and place them, then push the golf cart into the garage by hand or with a Quad.  The boiler room would keep them warm.  I see other batteries in there when I go to put wood in the boiler.  If we did this I would still need a second charging harness.  If we left them in the cart in the garage, we could keep the charger attached until a power outage occurs, then make some quick adjustment connecting the batteries to the inverter and to the boiler.  Dave says this is doable.  Just a quick note our power outages are caused by falling trees which take down the power lines, often in multiple places.  Depending on the severity of the storm, it take time to get to get the lines repaired.
  • mountainman
    mountainman Registered Users Posts: 439 ✭✭
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    If you go 24 or 48 volts you're gonna need another charger. And if you decide to go 48 and add 2 more Batteries they should be of the same brand and amp hour capacity. 
    It's usually not a good idea to add new to old Batteries.
    2kw array 6 345 q cells  make sky blue 60 cc
     6 230ah GC @36 volts 
    18 amp accusense charger. 3650 champion 
  • wellbuilt
    wellbuilt Solar Expert Posts: 763 ✭✭✭✭
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    Well, if your golf cart was 48 volt it would be easy to park your golf cart in the shop by a power inverter installed on a wall Permanently and bolt power leads to your GC then just run a cord to your heat system but that is not the case.
            What I would do is just get a small generator to run your heat and a few lights.when the power goes out .
      I used a small 200$ champion 1800 watt generator to power lights radio tv and small tools  at my place for 3 to 5 days at a time 15 hrs a day.
      I would use 5 gallons of fuel on a 3 day weekend .
        I heat with a wood stove so I did not use power over night but I could of run 24hrs a day. 
     If your power went out 8 times for 24 hours you would be under200 hrs 100$ a year in fuel .
    a small Honda generator would burn less fuel and be quiet and more dependable 

    Out back  flex power one  with out back 3648 inverter fm80 charge controler  flex net  mate 16 gc215 battery’s 4425 Watts solar .
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Leaving the Batteries+charger+AC inverter etc. in the garage / basement (hopefully, >~45F as warm batteries have more apparent capacity), and just run the 120 (or 120/240 VAC) power from the garage to the house AC main panel. And use either a manual or automatic transfer switch to power your "critical" circuits.

    It is much easier to wire 10-15 Amps of 120 VAC, then to transfer batteries and/or wire long distance low voltage DC power long distances (such as batter bank to AC inverter).

    https://www.homedepot.com/s/generator%2520transfer%2520switch?NCNI-5 (manual transfer switches)
    https://www.solar-electric.com/pomaxpmautrs.html (auto transfer--Just start the genset or AC inverter and relay will transfer 120 VAC power)

    The Honda euXXXXi family of gensets are very quiet and can be very reliable (should last >>2,000 Hours with oil changes). An eu2200i or eu3000 would probably run your home on 2-3 gallons of gasoline per day.

    Some of them can be converted (change to a "syphon type fuel cap" to draw fuel from an external fuel tank. For short term power outages (suggest less than a couple weeks a year), generators are generally a better solution vs solar/battery banks.

    If you have natural gas or propane, getting a compatible genset saves the issues of getting, storing, and persurving gasoline (or even diesel).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset