Where can I get (if they exist)

garynappi
garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
in Solar Beginners Corner #1
I want an elegant way to connect the MC4 connector from the PV panel to the MC4 wires that go to my controller. 

I really don't want to tie wrap the cables to the aluminum wall bracket. I would think a 2 in / 2 out passive (no fuses or electrical components inside) junction box with MC4 connectors that can attach to the frame of either the panel or mounting bracket would be a common need?

Is it that I'm using the wrong search term or is a product like this unavailable? I guess I "could" just wire the cables down to the controller directly to the PV wire box (still tie wrapping the cable to the frame) but I'd rather not do that.

I've seen scads of combiner boxes with breakers for multiple panels, but nothing for one PV to the down cable.

Next Q... For outside / unprotected (no structure nearby) battery storage it seems as if there is nothing available I can find to house my battery. 


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  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    #2
    Can you provide a bit more detail, like a simple line drawing depicting what you want to do?  Tony
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  • garynappi
    garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
    #3
    Sure, I just do not want to connect the PV wires to the down wires that go to the controller and fasten them to the frame with tie wraps. I'd like a solid "box" with two in two out no active devices in it that I can screw to the back of the PV panel's aluminum frame..  

    Like this:




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  • garynappi
    garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
    #4
    Maybe something like this Bud box / combiner with MC4 connectors?

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  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    #5
    Why not get a MC4 extension cable double the length of PV to controller, then cut in half using the male and female ends to connect to the panel.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
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  • garynappi
    garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
    #6
    mcgivor said:
    Why not get a MC4 extension cable double the length of PV to controller, then cut in half using the male and female ends to connect to the panel.
    I can already do that. Those wires will be loose and exposed. Whatever box I wind up with the wires need to be in pvc conduit. 
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  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    #7
    Any weather proof J box will work, mounted to the rail, or under the panel.  That said,you could also pull the MC cable through a pipe and terminate it under the panel through a weather proof connector.  

    Tony
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  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #8
    FWIW- They do  make connectors to hold  the wire along the edge of the aluminum frame.

    They come in 2 or  4 wire and sized for PV wire or  USE2 wire. They look like this;

    Image result for solar panel management wire

    Search solar wire clips or solar wire management...
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
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  • littleharbor2
    littleharbor2 Solar Expert Posts: 2,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #9
    Sounds like you need a combiner box. That is unless you are planning on running PVC conduit for every panel. Don't know why you would want to do that except running conduit from panels to a combiner for aesthetic reasons where the backside of the array is plainly visible.

    2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old  but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric,  460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.

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  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    #10
    I'm a little confused as to the rationale too, MC4 connectors are weather proof, more so than a junction box, but to each their own I guess.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
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  • garynappi
    garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
    #11
    garynappi said:
    mcgivor said:
    I'm a little confused as to the rationale too, MC4 connectors are weather proof, more so than a junction box, but to each their own I guess.
    Because from the junction box it WILL have conduit. I have a problem with wild vermin that will eat through the cable... Is that OK with you?  I hope so if not, TB at least you're not confused any longer. 

     Oh, and P.S, the PV is going to be on my south wall over my patio, loose wires will look sorta trailer park no?





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  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #12
    I would probably use panel wire clips for the MC4 leads to big enough waterproof boxes to hold the connectors and any extra lead wire, attached to racking, and conduit thereafter.  I'm assuming the racking is fixed (no tilt adjustment).  Personally, I'd be reluctant to drill box mounting holes in the panel frames, and would rather clamp boxes  to rack legs/standoffs/whatever.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
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  • garynappi
    garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
    #13
    Thanks Estragon. photowhit and littleharbor2, that's exactly what I was looking for... constructive suggestions. I found an appropriate combiner box and clips. 

    Much of the problem for newbies is finding purpose built solutions not knowing what terminology to use in search queries.

    BTW, the box will be mounted to a semi custom built aluminum wall mount that is articulated like an elbow to lower the angle of the PV to the lower winter sun location on the horizon. There's plenty of space for the box to mount the box. 





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  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #14
    So when wiring from panels to mounts, you'll leave enough slack for tilt adjustments? 

    Don't ask me why I ask. :(
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
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  • littleharbor2
    littleharbor2 Solar Expert Posts: 2,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #15
    In a typical roof mounted fixed array pest control would be addressed with a perimeter barrier of some sort.  I think the original confusion arose from not knowing the intended purpose of the conduit.

    2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old  but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric,  460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.

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  • garynappi
    garynappi Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭
    #16
    Estragon said:
    So when wiring from panels to mounts, you'll leave enough slack for tilt adjustments? 

    Don't ask me why I ask. :(
    It wouldn't move much if I didn't. That small section of wire is going to be wrapped with tough nylon wire wrap. I used extensively it in all of my Jon boat wiring over the years, and nothing has bitten through,vibration on the water has not rubbed it raw it and there's always slack to make wiring repairs or mods. 

     


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