Need Advice "new off grid system"

Ok, I found the Voc Temperature Coefficient for those panels. It's -0.262%/deg C. That's actually not too bad. I didn't check my math multiple times, but my first cut indicated that using the PT-100 with a 248V limit, you could run 3 panels in series per string, so four strings. The Hyper Voc wouldn't exceed the limit of the charge controller until you got to -54.47 deg C (-66.05 deg F), which is unlikely even at 10,000 elevation.

Like I suspected, if you used the MPPT60-150 you would have to run all the panels in parallel, which wouldn't even give you enough voltage at Vmp on the input of the charge controller to give adequate charge to your 48V battery. In addition, you would be carrying almost 60 amps (Imp at STC) from the PV to the charge controller, so you'd need some pretty hefty wire.

Steve

After re-reading my response, I think I need to be more to-the-point:

The Xantrex / Schneider MPPT60-150 cannot be used with those panels and a 48V battery bank. It simply won't work.  Consider the MidNite Solar 200 or the Magnum PT-100, and connect panels in series to get enough voltage for an MPPT controller to be able to effectively charge a 48V bank.

After reading a bit about these panels, something isn't sitting well. What is "hybrid tunnelling junction technology". Is that different than a regular p-n junction? Sounds to me a bit like vapourware that gets government money to make a cheap panel in a misguided effort to make a panel that competes with chinese panels for long enough for principals to cash out. Man I'm getting cynical!

There's something to be said for staying with one brand for control and monitoring. I don't find it to be much of an issue having a mix though, and the classic200 is less money.

With either the Classic 200 or the Magnum PT-100 you would be fine with one controller and those panels. If you used 6 strings of 2 panels each, you would have a total Vmp to the charge controller of 155V, and total current of 31.9A. You told me in a PM you were hoping to do two arrays of 6, so you'd have half of that current from each, or around 16A. That would be pretty manageable in terms of wire to the charge controller. 

On the other hand, you could wire three of the panels in series based on the Hyper Voc calculation I did. That would mean two strings of 3 in each of the two arrays. Then you would have a total Vmp to the charge controller of 172V, and Imp total of 10.6A from each of the two arrays. 

My guess is that the MPPT efficiency for your 48V battery bank might be a little higher with the strings of 2 panels than with the strings of three, but either should work well. The wire losses with the lower current strings of 3 may make the efficiency a wash between the two (6 strings of 2 vs 4 strings of 3). 

Anyway, since you already have the panels but not the charge controller, keep the panels and go for either of the other two charge controllers.  I personally prefer the idea of going with the Magnum if you are getting the Magnum inverter. That way when something goes wrong you can contact one vendor and they won't be pointing fingers at each other.

The wire you'll need depends on which of the two configurations you choose: 6 strings of 2 panels, or 4 strings of 3 panels. It basically comes down to the current (Imp). You lose power due to the very small resistance in the wire. The more current, the more resistance. The only way to make the resistance lower is to use bigger wire. There are on-line tools for the loss on the wire, but the calculation is really easy using the NEC table. Let me know which of the two configurations you want to use, and I'll tell you what wire you need from each of your two poles.

As for wiring things together: You'll probably want a combiner box on each pole. It isn't strictly needed if you only have 2 strings of three panels on each pole, but you may want one anyway with breakers to shut off each string separately. That will be useful if you need to troubleshoot the array.  So those combiner boxes will allow you to have one positive and one negative from each pole into the house. You're going to need a breaker panel of some type at the electronics. You would need a breaker on the input to your charge controller, and one on the output. In your case, you can just make it two breakers on the input (one for each pole), and tie them together on the charge controller side.

Well, I think I found what @Estragon is talking about, and the graphs seem to indicate no change in efficiency, if I am interpreting them correctly.

So, I'd say go ahead and do strings of 3 panels in series. On each pole, you would have two such strings, which come together at a combiner and go into the electronics on #12 wire or larger.

I think you are probably right @Estragon, although I couldn't figure out that graph that clearly. Looks like output volts is the amps divided into the watts. Not sure what it tells me.

I knew I had seen something though, and here's the page I managed to find: https://www.homepower.com/input-voltage-controller-efficiency  It basically says that a 4-to-1 ratio of input voltage to output voltage is 0.5% less efficient than a 3-to-1 ratio. In the OP's case, he's looking at about a 3-to-1 (172.5V to 58V) vs a 2-to-1 (115V to 58V). I'm guessing it is less than 0.5% difference, so I think he is fine either way. Go for the lower cost wire!