Building a Skoolie

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Comments

  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    mcgivor said:
    For roof mounting with the dimensions given you could get 4× 250W panels, loose  the front hatch add one more.
    The rooftop is prime real estate, if you go with a deck, some panels on the side, over the windows which can be tilted up when parked, will shade the windows like an awning. Have the roof panels tilt to the same side and this would be the sunny side of the bus when parked.

    Seems to me side mounted panels could be easily set up to pivot up and over to lay flat on the roof, although upside down, when traveling, and tilted anywhere around up to 270 degrees to the side windows of the bus. You would need to get creative with the tilt support but you would have the ability to set about any angle you want when stationary.
    Actually  I was thinking on one side, pivoted on top, drop down over the windows whilst on the move, with an adjustable prop to angle for optimization when parked, this  way there will be some harvest whilst on the move, if the sun is on the correct  side. Has anyone any knowledge regarding an altenator that could charge a 48v battery? if there is a need,  a solution usually exists, somewhere, this way the battery could be charged on the move.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You may be able to find a 48v alternator but may be expensive. There will be more choices at 24v and lots at 12v. At 12v you could probably just add an isolator if your existing alternator is decent output.

    48v is rare in mobile/marine applications, though some automakers are looking at dual 12/48v systems so maybe more choices in future. For now though you may want to rethink 48v.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    At the very least, you get a alternator house to replace the diodes for higher voltage, or just hope the stock voltage holds out, and  run the regulator (on your house alternator) up to 48V. 
     Worst worst case, install a 2nd alternator, and small battery, and power an inverter to run a 48V charger
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • oil pan 4
    oil pan 4 Solar Expert Posts: 767 ✭✭✭✭
    An alternator can not develop 48 volts at idle.
    So it would likely only charge while driving down the road.
    My DR44G truck alternator turned into a welding alternator. It can only develop 30 volts at idle speed at full armature power.
    This is a heavily modified automotive alternator that has external rectifier that develops almost 90v.
    I have a plan to turn this into a 48v battery charger at some point.
    An automotive alternator can be used to charge a 48v bank it just needs to be modified.
    Some automotive alternators have rectifiers that can take 48v, but this appears to be the exception and not the norm.

    Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.

    Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.

  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    oil pan 4 said
    :
    An alternator can not develop 48 volts at idle.
    So it would likely only charge while driving down the road.
    My DR44G truck alternator turned into a welding alternator. It can only develop 30 volts at idle speed at full armature power.
    This is a heavily modified automotive alternator that has external rectifier that develops almost 90v.
    I have a plan to turn this into a 48v battery charger at some point.
    An automotive alternator can be used to charge a 48v bank it just needs to be modified.
    Some automotive alternators have rectifiers that can take 48v, but this appears to be the exception and not the norm.
    How about using a permanent magnet alternator like the ones used on wind turbines?
    http://www.hurricanewindpower.com/48-volt-permanent-magnet-alternator/
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • oil pan 4
    oil pan 4 Solar Expert Posts: 767 ✭✭✭✭
    Those don't have have voltage regulation and they are not designed to spin at normal alternator speeds.

    Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.

    Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.

  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭



    oil pan 4 said:
    Those don't have have voltage regulation and they are not designed to spin at normal alternator speeds.

    A MPPT controller can take care of regulation and pulley size could control rotation speed
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • oil pan 4
    oil pan 4 Solar Expert Posts: 767 ✭✭✭✭
    edited December 2016 #39
    If the alternator over speeds and makes too much voltage it will fry the controller, then what mppt controller can stand under hood temperatures?
    Alternator voltage regulators that go under the hood are rated to around 200°C.

    Then where do you think you are going get alternator and crank pulleys that will take the 1 to 3 alternator over drive down to more like a 10 to 1 reduction?

    I would use a conventional alternator modified for higher voltage. Since I already know it works.

    Anyone who wants to waste time and money trying to make a wind turbine PMA into a higher voltage automotive alternator is more than welcome to.

    Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.

    Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.

  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Wouldn't suggest mounting the controller in the engine compartment and reduction is possible with a little thought. Just ideas, not trying to argue the point, have read on Morningstar site that the MPPT could be used as a regulator but not PWM.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    mcgivor said:
    Wouldn't suggest mounting the controller in the engine compartment and reduction is possible with a little thought. Just ideas, not trying to argue the point, have read on Morningstar site that the MPPT could be used as a regulator but not PWM.
    It can e used as a regulator on a power supply or a battery.   But an alternator is a different beast, and maybe if it's configured for WIND mode instead of solar, it could work without killing the alternator.   But I worry that trying to lug down an alternator with a MPPT controller, would not be good for the alternator.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    mike95490 said:
    mcgivor said:
    Wouldn't suggest mounting the controller in the engine compartment and reduction is possible with a little thought. Just ideas, not trying to argue the point, have read on Morningstar site that the MPPT could be used as a regulator but not PWM.
    It can e used as a regulator on a power supply or a battery.   But an alternator is a different beast, and maybe if it's configured for WIND mode instead of solar, it could work without killing the alternator.   But I worry that trying to lug down an alternator with a MPPT controller, would not be good for the alternator.
    Yes you are correct it was an MPPT controller that can be used with a power supply, not PWM. Anyhow I think I have gone off on a tangent from the OP'S questions with oddball ideas, perhaps it's better to rewind to his solar needs for now. So rewind with the altenator option edited out.
    mcgivor said:
    mcgivor said:
    For roof mounting with the dimensions given you could get 4× 250W panels, loose  the front hatch add one more.
    The rooftop is prime real estate, if you go with a deck, some panels on the side, over the windows which can be tilted up when parked, will shade the windows like an awning. Have the roof panels tilt to the same side and this would be the sunny side of the bus when parked.

    Seems to me side mounted panels could be easily set up to pivot up and over to lay flat on the roof, although upside down, when traveling, and tilted anywhere around up to 270 degrees to the side windows of the bus. You would need to get creative with the tilt support but you would have the ability to set about any angle you want when stationary.
    Actually  I was thinking on one side, pivoted on top, drop down over the windows whilst on the move, with an adjustable prop to angle for optimization when parked, this  way there will be some harvest whilst on the move, if the sun is on the correct  side.

    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • sasquatters
    sasquatters Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭✭
    edited December 2016 #43
    Hello again guy. I have decided that without a doubt I am going to go with one of these two refrigerators. Leaning more towards the Fisher & Paykal one because it is shorter.

    LG - LBN10551SW

    $719
    5’7”
    10 cu. ft.
    430kwh/yr

    Fisher & Paykel - RF170BRPW6
    $1749
    5’6”
    17.5 cu. ft.
    454kwh/yr

    I was watching this video earlier and they plug their refrigerator into a kill-a-watt meter. The refrigerator turned on at 93w but then quickly went down and hovered around 50-60w. Their refrigerator is a Haier Bottom Mount using 428kwh/yr.

    Comments? Does it seem like I will still need a 3000+kw solar setup?
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Please be aware that the consumption /yr decreases yearly(?) on each new model made, it is mandated by the government(s).  There are 3 tiers IIRC... We got a GE 18 cu ft top freezer fridge  with 319Kwh/yr  in Sears 2 years ago... don't know what they might be down to now...
    That height constraint may be a killer...  good luck
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 2016 #45
     sasquatters said:
    Hello again guy. I have decided that without a doubt I am going to go with one of these two refrigerators. Leaning more towards the Fisher & Paykal one because it is shorter.

    LG - LBN10551SW

    $719
    5’7”
    10 cu. ft.
    430kwh/yr

    Fisher & Paykel - RF170BRPW6
    $1749
    5’6”
    17.5 cu. ft.
    454kwh/yr

    I was watching this video earlier and they plug their refrigerator into a kill-a-watt meter. The refrigerator turned on at 93w but then quickly went down and hovered around 50-60w. Their refrigerator is a Haier Bottom Mount using 428kwh/yr.

    Comments? Does it seem like I will still need a 3000+kw solar setup?


    Whatever the choice the consumption based on annual Kwh rating are all close, it comes down to personal preferences regarding size, dimensions, needs and brand reputation. With real life experience my refrigerator as the only load, same Kwh rating, with an inverter self consumption of 0.4Kwh per day (2000 W inverter, no sleep mode) and regular useage, open close, has a consumption of 1.6Kwh per day average, tracked over a 2 week period, including all system losses.This figure could be reduced if I went with a 300W inverter with sleep mode as it is an inverter type refrigerator, no inrush on start up, you would need a larger one as none of the models listed appear to be, so a larger inverter is needed, say 1000W but this is only for the refrigerator, no other loads.

    So combine all other loads, time of use and come up with a Kwh figure add 30% for safty margin, add that to the refrigerator demand and a calculation of battery capacity and array size can be caculated, taking into consideration depth of discharge and days of autonomy etc. There are smart people here who can help but they all need numbers to work with.

    Comments? Does it seem like I will still need a 3000+kw solar setup?
    Think 3Kwh was meant.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • sasquatters
    sasquatters Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭✭
    I am still unsure what numbers you are referring to. I though I have given all requested information.
    Thanks.
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    One number we don't know is the starting current for the fridge. Inverter type fridges ramp up slowly, but most ac fridges have a large surge current to start the compressor, and the inverter has to be able to handle the surge. Unless otherwise stated a fridge in the US is likely that latter type. A 1500w pure sine wave inverter with decent surge probably.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Assuming an effciant refrigerator uses 1000Wh per day or there about, the compressor would be somewhere around 100W, so based on that, the inrush may be in the region of 9A for a few milliseconds, any reasonably good quality 1500W PSW inverter should cover that.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • sasquatters
    sasquatters Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭✭
    The Haier Bottom Mount fridge that I mentioned above, when plugged in for the very first time started at 90w and quickly (within a minute or two) worked its way down to 60w
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Haier linked doesn't say, but looks like it could be an inverter type. "Fast cool" feature sort of suggests variable speed. Non-inverter start would like be much higher than 90w.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    The Haier Bottom Mount fridge that I mentioned above, when plugged in for the very first time started at 90w and quickly (within a minute or two) worked its way down to 60w
    What was used to measure the wattage, my observations when testing an inverter refrigerator was that the current ramps up to a maximum then tapers down as the setpoint is reached, using a clamp on ammeter. When set to inrush there was no capture, if a  Kill-a-watt meter was used perhaps it took the inrush into account and averaged the watts, have never used one so have no idea off its sampling rate or how it calculates it's measurement, someone who has had experience with one may be able to shed some light on that.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    To answer my own question I did a little research, it turns out that the Kill-a-watt cannot take the inrush current into account, the initial higher reading of 90w is probably the initial higher load during pressurieation and once stable drops to 60W. FWIW
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2017 #53
    Estragon said:
    Haier linked doesn't say, but looks like it could be an inverter type. "Fast cool" feature sort of suggests variable speed. Non-inverter start would like be much higher than 90w.
    To measure the half second starting surge you need a $400 Peak Hold Amp meter.   Or a 200w inverter and then you find it won't work.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    mike95490 said:

    Estragon said:
    Haier linked doesn't say, but looks like it could be an inverter type. "Fast cool" feature sort of suggests variable speed. Non-inverter start would like be much higher than 90w.
    To measure the half second starting surge you need a $400 Peak Hold Amp meter.   Or a 200w inverter and then you find it won't work.
    Which is exactly what I did, using a $400 peak hold ammeter on an inverter refrigerator , no inrush, the current increased slowly as the compressor reached its maximum for fast cool, about 150W, then dropped to a level to maintain the setpoint, around 60W. So I highly doubt the Haier is an inverter unit, but is an efficient  unit none the less.The issue is the inrush and a 1500 plus watt PSW  inverter of reasonable  quality  should  be sufficient.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • Horsefly
    Horsefly Registered Users Posts: 470 ✭✭✭✭
    Just for what it is worth, I don't think you need to spend $400 to get something that will catch the inrush current. I bought this one from Amazon to find the inrush on my well pump (discussed in another thread):

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019CY4FB4

    It has a min/max setting which was able to catch the inrush every time.

    Off-grid cabin: 6 x Canadian Solar CSK-280M PV panels, Schneider XW-MPPT60-150 Charge Controller, Schneider CSW4024 Inverter/Charger, Schneider SCP, 8S (25.6V), 230Ah Eve LiFePO4 battery in a custom insulated and heated case.
  • sasquatters
    sasquatters Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭✭
    So far it definitely seems as though a 1500w inverter will be used.

    Has anyone see the products from GrapeSolar?
    http://www.grapesolar.com/docs/GS-S60LSQ-285-PR.pdf
    http://www.grapesolar.com/docs/GS-P60-265-Fab2.pdf

    They seem like really high efficiency panels.
  • sasquatters
    sasquatters Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭✭
    It's been a while but I have found some information.

    Fridge. - 454kwh/yearly (24 hrs)
    8x Light bulbs - 9w (5 hrs not all on at once)
    Modem - 11.40w (24 hrs)
    TV - 54w 135w max (5 hrs)
    LP Water Heater - 10w (24 hrs)
    Computer - 12w - 18w on load - 60w when charging
    x8 Light switch - 0.59w
    x16 Outlet - 0.75w

    I called our electric company today and they said that we average 4kw a day. This is with the TV on for 15 hours (for work), PC, and server running 24/7, old decrepit water heater, and an older refrigerator.

    Hope this helps more.
  • sasquatters
    sasquatters Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭✭
    bump?
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What is the question?
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter