Solar Powered Deep Freezer Fridge
WolfMT
Registered Users Posts: 21 ✭✭
Here is the plan:
15 Cubic foot Freezer Converted to Fridge
1000w Pure Sine Inverter (Tripp Lite)
320w Solar Panels
4 each 6 volt batteries
no charge controller yet
looking at 30A controller MPPT
Any thoughts??
15 Cubic foot Freezer Converted to Fridge
1000w Pure Sine Inverter (Tripp Lite)
320w Solar Panels
4 each 6 volt batteries
no charge controller yet
looking at 30A controller MPPT
Any thoughts??
Comments
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For a standard fridge/freezer--The 1,000 Watt inverter may or may not reliably start the compressor--Typically, 1,200 to 1,500 Watt is recommended for reliable compressor operation.
And, we do not know how much energy the freezer will use as a refrigerator... Just to be relatively conservative, lets guess 500 WH per day. 2 days of storage, and 50% maximum discharge (longer battery life) on a 12 volt battery bank:- 500 WH per day * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 2 days storage * 1/0.50 max battery discharge * 1/12 volt battery bank = 196 AH @ 12 volt battery bank
Suggest 5% to 13% rate of charge for battery bank--And 10% or more for full time off grid (vs weekend/seasonal system usage). The solar array for such a battery bank would be:- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.05 rate of charge = 452 Watt array minimum
- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.10 rate of charge = 903 Watt array nominal
- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.13 rate of charge = 1,175 Watt array "cost effective" maximum
Then there is sizing array based on energy usage and by season... You did not say if this was for backup power, full time off grid, inside or outside, generator backup, other power usages (LED lighting, cell phone charging, laptop computer, etc.)... A nominal system design would look like (assuming Missoula Montana):
http://solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.htmlMissoula
Measured in kWh/m2/day onto a solar panel set at a 43° angle from vertical:
Average Solar Insolation figures
(For best year-round performance)
Normally, toss the bottom three months (assume generator use for bad weather--And for a refrigerator out on the back porch, energy usage may fall in freezing weather), pick February as "break even month":Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2.66
3.75
4.71
5.12
5.13
5.41
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 6.11
5.90
5.20
3.93
2.86
2.37
- 500 WH per day * 1/0.52 off grid system eff * 1/3.75 Hours of sun per Feb day = 256 Watt minimum array (Feb break even)
- 500 WH per day * 1/0.65 daily power usage * 1/0.52 off grid system eff * 1/2.37 Hours of sun per Feb day = 624 Watt array minimum (12 months per year)
So--Without knowing much about where you are located, if you will use genset for winter/bad weather, etc... At this point, I would be suggesting a ~903 Watt minimum array (note, solar math is not that exact.... I am using 903 Watts so you can see where I am pulling the numbers from -- Anything within ~10% is pretty much "exact" in solar power estimate).
And possibly a larger AC inverter (1,200 Watts minimum)... It is possible that your 1,000 Watt Tripplite will work fine for you--I just do not know.
Also, with a 903 Watt array--You will have lots of extra power for much of the season...- 903 Watt array * 0.52 off grid AC system eff * 3.75 hours of sun (9 months of the year) = 1,761 Watt*Hours per day
Your corrections/questions about my guesstimates?
-Bill
Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Bosch A+ fridge and freezers work perfectly on small inverters. Draw about 90w a day depending on use.5kVA Victron Multiplus II, 5.2kW array, 14kWh DIYLifepo4 bank, all grid-tied.
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When using solar, it's usually best to buy the highest efficiency appliance possible. So in the case of EU rated appliances, I'd buy A+++. In the US, something Energy Star rated.
Consider buying the freezer somewhat larger than needed (it doesn't add much to the energy usage) and then fill all the unused space with water jugs. This should allow turning it off for significant periods (perhaps 3am to 9am), saving some wear on the batteries and generator.I am available for custom hardware/firmware development
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My brand new 14 cubic foot Danby freezer showed a 220 watt start up surge for ~1/2 second. Things have changed.
However...wattage while running varies a bit. Didn't expect that. Up to 80 watts while running. Only had it a week.
First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries -
BB. said:For a standard fridge/freezer--The 1,000 Watt inverter may or may not reliably start the compressor--Typically, 1,200 to 1,500 Watt is recommended for reliable compressor operation.
And, we do not know how much energy the freezer will use as a refrigerator... Just to be relatively conservative, lets guess 500 WH per day. 2 days of storage, and 50% maximum discharge (longer battery life) on a 12 volt battery bank:- 500 WH per day * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 2 days storage * 1/0.50 max battery discharge * 1/12 volt battery bank = 196 AH @ 12 volt battery bank
Suggest 5% to 13% rate of charge for battery bank--And 10% or more for full time off grid (vs weekend/seasonal system usage). The solar array for such a battery bank would be:- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.05 rate of charge = 452 Watt array minimum
- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.10 rate of charge = 903 Watt array nominal
- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.13 rate of charge = 1,175 Watt array "cost effective" maximum
Then there is sizing array based on energy usage and by season... You did not say if this was for backup power, full time off grid, inside or outside, generator backup, other power usages (LED lighting, cell phone charging, laptop computer, etc.)... A nominal system design would look like (assuming Missoula Montana):
http://solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.htmlMissoula
Measured in kWh/m2/day onto a solar panel set at a 43° angle from vertical:
Average Solar Insolation figures
(For best year-round performance)
Normally, toss the bottom three months (assume generator use for bad weather--And for a refrigerator out on the back porch, energy usage may fall in freezing weather), pick February as "break even month":Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2.66
3.75
4.71
5.12
5.13
5.41
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 6.11
5.90
5.20
3.93
2.86
2.37
- 500 WH per day * 1/0.52 off grid system eff * 1/3.75 Hours of sun per Feb day = 256 Watt minimum array (Feb break even)
- 500 WH per day * 1/0.65 daily power usage * 1/0.52 off grid system eff * 1/2.37 Hours of sun per Feb day = 624 Watt array minimum (12 months per year)
So--Without knowing much about where you are located, if you will use genset for winter/bad weather, etc... At this point, I would be suggesting a ~903 Watt minimum array (note, solar math is not that exact.... I am using 903 Watts so you can see where I am pulling the numbers from -- Anything within ~10% is pretty much "exact" in solar power estimate).
And possibly a larger AC inverter (1,200 Watts minimum)... It is possible that your 1,000 Watt Tripplite will work fine for you--I just do not know.
Also, with a 903 Watt array--You will have lots of extra power for much of the season...- 903 Watt array * 0.52 off grid AC system eff * 3.75 hours of sun (9 months of the year) = 1,761 Watt*Hours per day
Your corrections/questions about my guesstimates?
-Bill -
I already have the Freezer/Fridge so buying a new one is out of the question.
-
still looking for an mppt controller.
-
BB. said:For a standard fridge/freezer--The 1,000 Watt inverter may or may not reliably start the compressor--Typically, 1,200 to 1,500 Watt is recommended for reliable compressor operation.
And, we do not know how much energy the freezer will use as a refrigerator... Just to be relatively conservative, lets guess 500 WH per day. 2 days of storage, and 50% maximum discharge (longer battery life) on a 12 volt battery bank:- 500 WH per day * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 2 days storage * 1/0.50 max battery discharge * 1/12 volt battery bank = 196 AH @ 12 volt battery bank
Suggest 5% to 13% rate of charge for battery bank--And 10% or more for full time off grid (vs weekend/seasonal system usage). The solar array for such a battery bank would be:- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.05 rate of charge = 452 Watt array minimum
- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.10 rate of charge = 903 Watt array nominal
- 480 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.13 rate of charge = 1,175 Watt array "cost effective" maximum
Then there is sizing array based on energy usage and by season... You did not say if this was for backup power, full time off grid, inside or outside, generator backup, other power usages (LED lighting, cell phone charging, laptop computer, etc.)... A nominal system design would look like (assuming Missoula Montana):
http://solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.htmlMissoula
Measured in kWh/m2/day onto a solar panel set at a 43° angle from vertical:
Average Solar Insolation figures
(For best year-round performance)
Normally, toss the bottom three months (assume generator use for bad weather--And for a refrigerator out on the back porch, energy usage may fall in freezing weather), pick February as "break even month":Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2.66
3.75
4.71
5.12
5.13
5.41
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 6.11
5.90
5.20
3.93
2.86
2.37
- 500 WH per day * 1/0.52 off grid system eff * 1/3.75 Hours of sun per Feb day = 256 Watt minimum array (Feb break even)
- 500 WH per day * 1/0.65 daily power usage * 1/0.52 off grid system eff * 1/2.37 Hours of sun per Feb day = 624 Watt array minimum (12 months per year)
So--Without knowing much about where you are located, if you will use genset for winter/bad weather, etc... At this point, I would be suggesting a ~903 Watt minimum array (note, solar math is not that exact.... I am using 903 Watts so you can see where I am pulling the numbers from -- Anything within ~10% is pretty much "exact" in solar power estimate).
And possibly a larger AC inverter (1,200 Watts minimum)... It is possible that your 1,000 Watt Tripplite will work fine for you--I just do not know.
Also, with a 903 Watt array--You will have lots of extra power for much of the season...- 903 Watt array * 0.52 off grid AC system eff * 3.75 hours of sun (9 months of the year) = 1,761 Watt*Hours per day
Your corrections/questions about my guesstimates?
-Bill -
Without the board, you probably would. Golf cart batteries work pretty well really. Especially is you can keep them charged, cool, and using thick cable seems to help.
Thanks Bill! I have four 6 volt batteries, i went with cheep batteries because I figure I will ruin first set any way.
First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries -
What size array do you want? Specific panels? Long or short cable run from array to charge controller+battery shed?
Do you want simple or computer logging or even Ethernet?
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
320 watt plan to add one more 160 this year
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20 feet from panels to batteries
-
I currently have 2 160w panels no logging short wire runs batteries in entry way
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Your batteries may be dead in a couple months if you don't have the panel power. Then you lose what you have in the freezer/fridge. December is coming.....short, cloudy days. Try to put the freezer/fridge in a cold area. I'd add that extra panel asap.
First Bank:16 180 watt Grape Solar with FM80 controller and 3648 Inverter....Fullriver 8D AGM solar batteries. Second Bank/MacGyver Special: 10 165(?) watt BP Solar with Renogy MPPT 40A controller/ and Xantrex C-35 PWM controller/ and Morningstar PWM controller...Cotek 24V PSW inverter....forklift and diesel locomotive batteries -
What is the Vmp/Imp rating of the panel(s)?
-Bill
Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
softdown said:Your batteries may be dead in a couple months if you don't have the panel power. Then you lose what you have in the freezer/fridge. December is coming.....short, cloudy days. Try to put the freezer/fridge in a cold area. I'd add that extra panel asap.
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Your choice is to run your panels in parallel for charging a 12 volt battery bank (use PWM or MPPT), or run two (or more) in series with an MPPT controller.
Say you want 3x panels in parallel at 26 amps for 20 feet with 1% to 3% voltage drop. Using a basic voltage drop calculator:
http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=1.296&voltage=18.5&phase=ac&noofconductor=1&distance=20&distanceunit=feet&eres=26&x=62&y=16
6 awg:
Voltage drop: 0.41
Voltage drop percentage: 2.22%
Voltage at the end: 18.09
2 awg:
Voltage drop: 0.16
Voltage drop percentage: 0.86%
Voltage at the end: 18.34
You can see that is pretty heavy copper cabling... If you instead put 3x panels in series (2 is really recommended for MPPT--A bit less MPPT controller heating/losses):
http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=13.17&voltage=55.5&phase=ac&noofconductor=1&distance=20&distanceunit=feet&eres=8.65&x=50&y=11
16 awg:
Voltage drop: 1.39
Voltage drop percentage: 2.50%
Voltage at the end: 54.11
12 awg:
Voltage drop: 0.55
Voltage drop percentage: 0.99%
Voltage at the end: 54.95
So--An MPPT controller will allow you to use much less copper for your wiring run (probably 14 AWG or heavier wire recommended for mechanical strength).
A nice 30 amp MPPT charge controller (not cheap @ $290):
https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-solar-kid-mppt-solar-charge-controller.html
And a simple 30 amp PWM charge controller ($90)
https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-solar-brat-pwm-solar-charge-controller.html
Notice the besides saving on the costs of copper at higher array (and battery) voltages (higher voltage means lower current)--The charge controllers are typically rated for a maximum current... On a 12 volt battery bank, you are looking at a ~480 Watt maximum array with 3x panels (in series or in parallel) and a 30 amp controller. With a 24 volt battery bank, the same controllers will manage a 2x larger array (~960 Watts--Or a bit more for MPPT).
Doing a couple of paper designs to see what works best (price/performance/needs) for you. With PWM controllers, you are typically limited to "12 volt" (Vmp~18 volt) panels on a 12 volt battery bank. With MPPT you can use "Grid Tied" panels with Vmp~30 volts or higher on the 12 volt battery bank--"GT Panels" are around 1/2 the cost per Watt vs "12 volt" panels... Spend less on solar panels (and wiring) and spend more on MPPT charge controller(s)--You need to do a paper design to see what works best for you.
Typically--Less than 400 Watt systems work out fine with PWM controllers. And >800 Watt arrays, typically MPPT charge controllers end up being a better choice.
-Bill
Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Yes i plan to slowly expand the system so a 30A MPPT Controller is in the picture /
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