Question about amp draw
doghouse
Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭
Hello all,
I have a question about battery amp draw.
If my potential battery says.... 6 volt battery, "Min @ 25 Amps / 914" does this mean I can draw 25 amps for 914 minutes? I am looking to draw 4.5 amps @ 460 watts for 14 hours (12 volts). I'm trying to size my battery bank around the intended draw.
Thanks for your time.
I have a question about battery amp draw.
If my potential battery says.... 6 volt battery, "Min @ 25 Amps / 914" does this mean I can draw 25 amps for 914 minutes? I am looking to draw 4.5 amps @ 460 watts for 14 hours (12 volts). I'm trying to size my battery bank around the intended draw.
Thanks for your time.
Comments
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What is the device you are trying to run, and the specs?
How will you be recharging?
Are you running a 6 or 12v system, device?
Are the Amps / Watts you are figuring at 6 or 12 volts?
This can vary with battery type, manufacturer, etc.
Here is a general explanation from a battery site.
In order to get an AH rating, the battery that is being tested has to be drained down to 0 over the course of a specified amount of time. The amount of amperage that it took to get it down to zero, over that specified amount of time constitutes the AH rating. Because of the Peukert effect (aka, The faster a battery is drained, the less overall amperage is available), if you discharge a battery over the course of 100 hours, the AH rating looks higher that if you discharge that same battery over the course of 1 hour. So, there has to be a standard. For deep cycle batteries the standard rating is 20 hours. So, if a battery has a rating of 100AH @ 20 Hr rate, then that battery was discharged over 20 hours with a 5 amp load. Starting batteries on the other hand, are typically rated at 10Hr rate, because they are used faster, so the 20Hr rate is not as important. So, that weird 20Hr rate that you see after the AH rating on batteries, that tells you that the rating in question is the realistic, common rating; rather than an over-inflated number to make the battery look better than it really is.
You can read more about it in many posts on this forum, it's covered in painful detail by some of the experts here. Hopefully my simple answer is a good start. Read more on it here
Here is an interesting test a fellow did on a Deka to test the 20hr rate to claims and compare it to a yellow top.
http://bapollo.com/ev/deka9a34.html -
Hi Thanks for the reply,
I'm trying to design a new battery bank with better batteries for more power and lighter weigh. Currently I'm leaning towards a bank of 4 US battery US RE L16 XC2 in a 12volt system. At 400lbs it's a substantial weight and I don't want to over power the system. On the site it says that "Minutes of Discharge @ 25 Amps: 915". So I'm trying to figure out what that means.
What is the device you are trying to run, and the specs?
I'm trying to run a climate right A/C unit 5000btu 460 watts 4.3 amps through a xantrex ms 3000 inverter on a 12volt system. It needs to run for my sleep period at least 10 hours and possibly for 14 depending on my days off.
How will you be recharging?
Three kyocera 130 watt solar panel through a blue sky 2000e charge controller, and to boost it a 100 amp alternator off my 1991 kenworth semi truck.
Are you running a 6 or 12v system, device?
the entire system is 12volt
Are the Amps / Watts you are figuring at 6 or 12 volts?
12volts
The system is mobile, and on a semi truck. I use it for no-idle power supply year round, so it runs the A/C in the summer and in the winter it only needs to run a block heater and tv-dvd player.
I've had the panels/charge controller/inverter for 8 years, but the weak parts of the system are the batteries and the actual A/C unit.
Attachment not found.
The solar panels raise and lay flat depending on the height of the load or if I need to put them directly in the sun for more power.
Thanks for your info. -
Be aware that your 4.3 @120 volt load, becomes nearly (including inverter losses) a load of 50 amps on your 12 volt battery bank. 50 amps by 14 hours = 600 AH. Also that your bank should never be permitted to be drained below the 50% full mark, and actually, for good life, not lower than the 80% full mark. So you'll need a battery bank of at least 1200 AH.
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Battery specs are not very linear and you can bet the spec of 914hrs at 25A is about as good as it gets and you can't extrapolate that to other draws very well.
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It sounds like 6 Trojan L16's would do the trick if you can reliably recharge them. But you are once again over 600 lb (118 to 128lb each).
A/C sucks lots of power.
Island cottage solar system with appriximately 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing due south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 31st year. -
Battery specs are not very linear and you can bet the spec of 914hrs at 25A is about as good as it gets and you can't extrapolate that to other draws very well.
Think that the "914 hrs" is a TYPO. Reserve time is in MJNUTES @ 25 A ... FWIW.
doghouse, you might want to consider a "quiet" diesel generator. That would be lighter, realize that the noise of even a quiet genset might drive one batty when trying to sleep.
You are thinking about powering a fairly heavy load. And seems to me that you will not have enough PV to recharge the battery on many/most days, even at 10 hours of discharge on the batteries, and so on.
Just a drive-by post, FWIW Good Luck, VicOff Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes. 25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel, Honda Eu6500isa, Eu3000is-es, Eu2000, Eu1000 gensets. Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum. -
I came to the 6 L-16 conclusion also. I don't mind the weight, I hardly ever even haul over 25,000lbs, so I have a lot of room to carry the extra weight. I just didn't want to have 1,200lbs of batteries on a mobile vehicle, seems like too much could go wrong.
I had a quiet diesel (over $6,000) it was unreliable junk. Now I carry a Honda eu2000i that runs on propane and I use that to help on really hot days. -
Ok, now the doghouse name makes sense. Have you considered a 24V system, and / or a DC Air Conditioning system. The 2nd being a way to substantially cut your power requirements. Just might be a good time to anyalize what is out there, that can keep you comfortable and use less power.
Here is a company that makes a lot of different units, this particular one might do the job.. http://www.dcairco.com/product/truck...ir-conditioner.
A little video advertisement - entertaining. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa4g2...ature=youtu.be
Power Consumption 100% duty cycle
720 Watt
Power Consumption 50% duty cycle
360 Watt
Voltage VDC
12 - 24 -74 Vdc (other voltages on request)
A couple of other considerations, the efficiency of the panels 8 years ago may be quite a bit less than those available today, the same goes for the solar controller possibly. It might be worth reviewing that. Obviously you spend a fair amount of time on the road, as well, so there is a chance to fully charge the batteries. How has the system held up on it's own charging your configuration presently. -
Yeah Doghouse, I love these cabovers.
I'm building another one from the ground up with a larger sleeper/w a slideout. Lots of room to add more panels and get more power.
I looked into that 12/24 volt unit a few years ago, and the price being $1,800 to $4,000 depending on the dealer makes me shy away from a unit like that, also where to get it repaired. When a unit costs that much it scares me away. There is no reason for it to be that expensive. I have spent (wasted) a bunch of $$$ over the years on this project, and when it comes to high dollar stuff like this unit, I worry about how well it will work.
The system I'm using now has 6 -12v deep cycle group 24 batteries from Walmart. It will run my A/C unit for 5 hours before the bank draws down to 11.5 volts, at which point I break out the Honda genny and run the A/C and a battery charger. The next day I flip the switch on my dash and transfer the amps from my truck alt. (76 amps) to give the bank a good charge to top them off (until the light on my blue sky controller starts blinking at 14.5 volts) and then repeat the process as needed. So far the batteries have lasted 1 year (last summer was hot and they held up pretty well) and look like they might make it through this summer, but time will tell when I get to Tucson in August. Good thing is I just go to Walmart and get 6 new ones in one day and start off fresh for $400.
I'd like to go the 6 L-16 route, since the system was designed to charge that amount of lead, but I need to make sure that an investment that large will last a few years.
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I actually think your pretty close, I would plan on letting the batteries go to 50% when needed, you will have charging pretty quick and reliable from the truck engine with the solar more as back up. Most of this depends on the duty cycle of the A/C which will be difficult to figure out since ambient temps will vary so much. Also a big factor is how long since and how much heat will come from the engine cooling off.
I ran a window unit pretty much the same as what you're looking at on 4 - 6 volt golf cat batteries, they lasted 5 years 4 summers running an A/C in a well insulated cabin 10 x 16 built in the shade. I think with such a small space you will have a no more than a 50% duty cycle so figure 280 watts an hour with the inverter and minor loads. You will draw slightly above the 1/20th the battery capacity is rated. I don't deal the discharge ah crap, but most L-16s start at about 340 amp hour capacity so 4 in parallel and series should give you @700 ah 12 volt battery bank. figure a 280 watt load would be 280watts / 12 volts = 23.5 amps used each hour. The actual peak load will be 500+ watts(42+ amps) which will bring the batteries down faster than the amp hour rating which is done at 1/20th capacity.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Hello all,
I have a question about battery amp draw.
If my potential battery says.... 6 volt battery, "Min @ 25 Amps / 914" does this mean I can draw 25 amps for 914 minutes? I am looking to draw 4.5 amps @ 460 watts for 14 hours (12 volts). I'm trying to size my battery bank around the intended draw.
Thanks for your time.
Just a general guideline: A battery that lists Reserve Minutes (number of minutes that it can sustain a 25A drain) is generally not a pure deep discharge battery optimized for RE use.
If it also has a CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) figure you can be sure that it is not a deep discharge battery intended for long cycle life.SMA SB 3000, old BP panels. -
Yeah Doghouse, I love these cabovers.
I'm building another one from the ground up with a larger sleeper/w a slideout. Lots of room to add more panels and get more power.
I looked into that 12/24 volt unit a few years ago, and the price being $1,800 to $4,000 depending on the dealer makes me shy away from a unit like that, also where to get it repaired. When a unit costs that much it scares me away. There is no reason for it to be that expensive. I have spent (wasted) a bunch of $$$ over the years on this project, and when it comes to high dollar stuff like this unit, I worry about how well it will work.
The system I'm using now has 6 -12v deep cycle group 24 batteries from Walmart. It will run my A/C unit for 5 hours before the bank draws down to 11.5 volts, at which point I break out the Honda genny and run the A/C and a battery charger. The next day I flip the switch on my dash and transfer the amps from my truck alt. (76 amps) to give the bank a good charge to top them off (until the light on my blue sky controller starts blinking at 14.5 volts) and then repeat the process as needed. So far the batteries have lasted 1 year (last summer was hot and they held up pretty well) and look like they might make it through this summer, but time will tell when I get to Tucson in August. Good thing is I just go to Walmart and get 6 new ones in one day and start off fresh for $400.
I'd like to go the 6 L-16 route, since the system was designed to charge that amount of lead, but I need to make sure that an investment that large will last a few years.
Just some food for thought here..
As far as servicing goes, I would inquire at a dealer. AC service should consist of cleaning, testing and possibly charging, any AC outfit should be able to handle that. It doesn't seem like there should be much servicing involved. I know expensive stuff can be scary, but my experience has been you truly get what you pay for. That is particularly true with stuff you want to last for a while. You can't expect to pay walmart prices, and end up with something designed to last a long time. That's not saying you can't get decent stuff at walmart, it just is not where I would be shopping for batteries for a system like this. Say 1800.00 on the low end for a unit you can get 10 years out of cost you 180.00 a year. A small price to pay if it is (and I am not claiming it is) for comfort and efficiency. Especially if you are not having to piece together additional equipment like inverters and more storage to power it. Just some thoughts for your consideration. When pricing it out, figure the expected lifespan.
Sometimes the reason things are more expensive is that more engineering, and better quality parts go into it, and the cost is higher as a result. Sometimes there is a rediculous mark up. Try to analyze it based on your actual needs, as well as the quality of the gear first, then worry about the price, and finding the best deal on it.
You will pay more for nice batteries, but if you use them right, and feed them right, they should last a while. Here are some decent batteries worth having a look at.. http://www.fullriverdcbattery.com/battery/DC400-6 The documentation for good batteries or lack of it, should give you an indication of who deserves your hard earned dollars. If a company has done the R&D and gives you good data to make decisions with, that is where I prefer to spend the money. Say you buy 4 sets of your 400 dollar batteries, which don't last long, or 10 years out of a decent set, which are more efficient and do a better job. The money comes out the same, but you've saved a lot of hassle.
If you were able to build the system on 24V for example, and run it that way, that will substantially reduce the amperage, and the size of the wire required. Some of the gurus here probably would have ideas on how to marry the two if it were worth considering before final decisions are made.
I've spend some time in years past in a few cabovers. Are you running a HAM or CB? I know anything that goes on a rig needs to be top notch stuff, as everything will take a beating beyond the comprehension of someone who hasn't spent time around a truck. -
I'd think gettting a small 1Kw honda inverter generator would be the BEST way to keep the system up. Can't use Lithium batteries, because they don't like being recharged when they are frosty. So Lead acid, battery charger, miini-inverter generator would be the way to do it, and save on battery replacement costs every couple years. L16's may not like being shaken on roads and may not give full lifetime cycles. Large plates, small supports.Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Hey Doghouse,
I was just reading this thread... if this is installed on a semi truck and 12v then why why why would you charge with solar? Just charge it off the main alternator. You will want to regulate the charge a bit so the alternator doesn't get overloaded, but even a trickle charge would be so much faster than a solar panel. It sounds like you drive right after sleeping. A setup like this would be virtually maintenance free and recharge you faster. And it won't affect gas mileage in any noticeable way. -
First, because I love to play with solar. And second because the panels serve multiple purpose.
1.When I'm shut down for a 34 hour restart in a no idle state the panels charge during the day and run the A/C while the battery bank runs the A/C at night for the first 5 hours so I can get through the hottest time.
2.The panels on the roof raise and lower depending on the height of the load on the trailer. Right now they are fully up to a height of 13 feet helping the aerodynamics and improving my fuel mileage.
I don't like to put that kind of a load on my engine alt. (and run the risk of a breakdown) when the sun can do it for me while I drive. I'll boost it with the alt. but will not engage it until the meter gets above 13volts.
As far as maint. free, the panels,and charge controller have been 100% maint. free for 8 years. And my truck alt. is going on 10 years old with no problems. -
Well if it's fun I can't argue that Good luck.
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