Generator Shelter Plans

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

If it is close enough to buildings, you probably do not want it to burn, so fire proofing is important. If it is far from everything, then burning the shed will not harm anything.

There was couple threads here where Chris Olson (can't find them right now) described how he built the shed, and his shed were insulated and also incorporated heating to pre-heat the generator before starting. He said his generator started fine at -35C. At any rate, it is not very pleasant to find out that your generator cannot start when it's -40C outside, more so in the middle of the night.

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

For whats it worth and I don't know any of the circumstances a Honda EU 2000 has been said to get Ice in the crankcase breather tube and blow all the oil out on extended runs in very cold weather. You might want to research it, I have read about it several places. There is plenty of heat that could be recycled off the muffler.

http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Honda_EU2000_Generators/conversations/topics/8482
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Re: Generator Shelter Plans

northerner wrote: »

It will be within a few feet of my building, so I may consider fire proofing. I would tend to think that the risk of a fire, particularly with NG is quite low.

I also believe that the cold temps won't affect the operation, running on NG, as it would with gasoline or propane. I may consider insulating with that foil backed fiberglass, and I could build walls and floor out of concrete board if need be.

My cabin is in an area that has MANY forest fires (unfortunately intentionally set by the hunters) each year.
Anyone who builds now generally uses that cement board on both the inside and outside of their structures (with insulation inbetween) and metal roofs. If you take your time on making the cuts on the inside walls, the cement board can actually look real nice when painted. Almost a woodgrain effect and helps to prevent fires on both the inside and outside.

Another option that a friend did was have one of those built-on-site metal storage buildings installed and then framed the inside with metal studs and insulation and the painted cement board on the inside as the finished walls. It looks really good and is about as fireproof of a structure as you can get. And the cost of the metal building, considering they come and set it up, was about the same as framing one yourself (considering your labor has a value) and the entire 30'x60' building was erected in under 2 days.

I know this is overkill for a shed, but I was just mentioning this because of the "fire-proof" and "insulation" factor that also applied to our cabins.

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

northerner wrote: »

I had a closer look at my EU 2000 today and noticed it has the cold weather kit installed which includes the small 10 watt heating element and insulated cover for the breather tube pipe. So appears that cold weather kit is now included on the latest units, sold around here anyway.

My guess would be the specifications for units sold in Canada are probably different, I guess it all depends when they changed and if it's some kind of gray market unit. Just like Cars, people in the USA would have a hard time believing that some cars there don't have A/C as standard.

I looked at a new one I have , same rubber tube. It's a couple months old, manufactured in February 2013. Does your's have the New big Fat gas cap thats tethered ??

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

northerner wrote: »

Not sure what you mean by that, as I haven't seen any previous models, but does measure about 2 1/2" in diameter including the knobs. The gas cap does have a shut off switch, which I do believe opens and closes a vent to the tank.

The New cap is at least 3 " and it has a plastic piece ( tether ) that sticks down into the tank so the cap cannot be removed from the generator.

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

I have a Honda 4500 w. generator just outside the house. I built a small shed for it from some galvanized metal panels someone gave me, I think from an old chicken house, something like that. The floor is concrete, as is the back wall [up against a hillside]. I used 2 x2 lumber for framing, and that will burn, but everything else, roof included, is the metal siding. I can open the top [lid] of the shed for extended generator run times, though it might not be needed. I left air vents at the tops of the end walls, and the front is a tri-fold door I can block open. So heat is not a problem for the engine. I also made the shed long enough to have a place to put my small air compressor in there, four feet or so from the generator. We have a PV-powered home, and I don't run the compressor off the PV but, rather, the generator. The shed cost me a few dollars for the Portland in the floor, a few deck screws to secure the steel panels to the framing, a few cheap hinges and latches. I don't know the shed dimensions: maybe three feet tall and a couple deep, long enough to house both the generator and compressor with some space in between. I used to keep oil and gasoline for the generator in there, too, but decided that having combustibles next to the running generator would be bad news if for some reason the generator caught on fire, so I've moved them to another shed.

I did not incorporate noise reduction, the thing is located back of the house and isn't a problem. I do like the other poster's suggestion of lining the inside with backer board or the like, I might have to think about that one. Mine is not quite fire-proof, those 2 x 2s would burn, though not much fire there.

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

I put my generator inside a suncast GS2000 shed. It has 12 rectangular soffit vents for it to breathe through. Have an exhaust kit to keep it from getting to hot inside.

Re: Generator Shelter Plans

northerner wrote: »

One important consideration when building a generator shelter is to make sure there's no blow back from the exhaust back into the shelter, as this will affect the available oxygen for the air intake and thus the generator output. This is particularly important if the shelter is relatively small. I found it best to open up one entire side (of a small shelter) to properly expel exhaust gas and to have good sized air intakes on the opposite side! In my application, I have a shelter that is about 2 feet wide by 4 feet long and close to 3 feet high. I originally had a 9" square opening to expel exhaust from my Honda EU 2000, and found there was gas blowing back into the shelter. This lowered my output, both on gasoline and natural gas by about 10 to 15 %! An extension of pipe on the exhaust is not recommended either. Best to have it running in the open us much as possible.

Why not to add to the exhaust pipe and route it to the outside? If you use larger pipe, this shouldn't affect the generator's backpressure.