Laptop Charging Station for Schools

Arrow
Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
Hi everyone!

I'm very new to the Solar game and though I've done some preliminary research on this I know I must be missing something and I'd love to hear what you have to offer.

I want to build an outdoor laptop charging station so we can have classes outdoors. I want to hook up four 150W solar panels to a charge controller which will charge and protect my battery bank (I'll use a boat battery or a few scooter batteries connected in parallel). These batteries will also be connected to an inverter that can output the sort of wattage that 10 or so laptop computers will need to operate.

My laptop is old and requires 90W but newer computers generally require half that power. So a 12V, 50Ah battery bank should be able to sustain 8 to 12 laptops for an hour. And if the sun is shining and the panels are feeding 600W into the controller, it should maintain itself pretty much at steady state (minus inefficiencies and losses).

Is there a fundamental flaw in my thinking? (Where) will I need to put fuses and diodes to protect my system? Do I have to worry about wire gauge?

Thanks for your help! I look forward to your responses.

Comments

  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    Welcome to the forum.

    I have to ask: what is the purpose of this project? Educational demonstration?
    It isn't very practical for a couple of reasons; it's pretty hard to use a laptop outdoors in bright sunlight and they generally have their own batteries in them that will last a couple of hours anyway.

    To that end it may be a good idea to look at the DC requirements of the laptops you plan on powering and see if you can't skip the inverter stage altogether; some will run off 12 VDC, albeit perhaps requiring a specific "car adapter".

    A laptop running full out tends to be a 35 Watt load. Some more, some less. Very important to know which/what you've got. A dozen such would be 420 Watts +/-. That just misses on being able to be supplied by one of the best small inverters available (which is 300 Watts).

    Before you talk about fuses and wire sizes (99% certainty there won't be ay diodes involved) you need to get firm numbers on how much power you need to supply. Otherwise you're just guessing at everything and that is bound to be disappointing.

    A couple of other observations: 600 Watts of panel will take up a fair amount of space. Mounting needs to be well thought-out. Boat/scooter batteries may work for demonstration purposes but they won't last long-term.

    If you've got the computers in question, spend $30 on a Kill-A-Watt meter and see what kind of power they really draw, both in use and while charging the built-in battery. You might be surprised.
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    Welcome to the forum.

    I have to ask: what is the purpose of this project? Educational demonstration?
    It isn't very practical for a couple of reasons; it's pretty hard to use a laptop outdoors in bright sunlight and they generally have their own batteries in them that will last a couple of hours anyway.

    To that end it may be a good idea to look at the DC requirements of the laptops you plan on powering and see if you can't skip the inverter stage altogether; some will run off 12 VDC, albeit perhaps requiring a specific "car adapter".

    A laptop running full out tends to be a 35 Watt load. Some more, some less. Very important to know which/what you've got. A dozen such would be 420 Watts +/-. That just misses on being able to be supplied by one of the best small inverters available (which is 300 Watts).

    Before you talk about fuses and wire sizes (99% certainty there won't be ay diodes involved) you need to get firm numbers on how much power you need to supply. Otherwise you're just guessing at everything and that is bound to be disappointing.

    A couple of other observations: 600 Watts of panel will take up a fair amount of space. Mounting needs to be well thought-out. Boat/scooter batteries may work for demonstration purposes but they won't last long-term.

    If you've got the computers in question, spend $30 on a Kill-A-Watt meter and see what kind of power they really draw, both in use and while charging the built-in battery. You might be surprised.

    Thanks for the quick reply! In fact, I'm looking at more of a permanent installation. We already have a gazebo structure in an outdoors park, so I think that roof space and glare shouldn't be a problem. I think 600W should take about 5 to 6 m^2 and we've got that kind of space.

    Of course you're right that laptops have their own batteries, but it could derail a class if students completely lost power. But since like you say they don't all need to be plugged in all the time, perhaps a smaller setup that can support a half dozen laptops and can use a smaller inverter is preferable. What is that 300W inverter you recommend?

    Students will all have different laptops, so I think it's best to guestimate an average power use and leave some wiggle room. The DC to DC adapter solution is interesting but if most computers have different power needs, I don't think I'll risk it.

    Why wont boat or scooter batteries last long-term? And what is a better battery solution?

    Thanks!
    -Trevor
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,631 admin
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    I believe Marc is talking about the MorningStar 300 watt TSW 12 VDC inverter:

    http://www.solar-electric.com/mosu300wasiw.html

    It is really a nice unit for your needs (includes some a low power 'search' mode and a remote on/off input).

    Regarding batteries--For lead acid type batteries--Looking for Deep Cycle type. 6 volt @ ~220 AH "golf cart" batteries are pretty cheap in many places and should last something like 3-5 years.

    You can start your battery research with these links:

    http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
    http://www.batteryfaq.org/
    http://batteryuniversity.com/

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • ggunn
    ggunn Solar Expert Posts: 1,973 ✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    It isn't very practical for a couple of reasons; it's pretty hard to use a laptop outdoors in bright sunlight and they generally have their own batteries in them that will last a couple of hours anyway.
    FWIW, some laptop screens are significantly brighter if they are running off the power supply instead of batteries.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    ggunn wrote: »
    FWIW, some laptop screens are significantly brighter if they are running off the power supply instead of batteries.

    This is true. Most of them reduce brightness on purpose when using battery to conserve power.

    If the set-up is based around a couple of GC2 batteries as Bill mentioned you'd have about 1.2 kW hours of AC power available (not including contribution from sun) and you'd only need about 400 Watts of panel to charge it.

    If the set-up will use the Morningstar inverter @ 300 Watts then it could be based on the idea of being able to supply 300 Watts steady for 4 hours. That's roughly 25 Amps * 4 hours = 100 Amp hours. At 50% max DOD that's a 200 Amp hour battery bank. Curiously the GC2's are around 220 Amp hours. And again 400 Watts of panel could about supply the 25 Amps (25 Amps * 17.5 Vmp = 437 Watts) even on a PWM type controller.

    But you've just hit that MPPT threshold! Look at this:
    Three 140 Watt Solartech panels @ $275 each + ProStar 30 Amp PWM controller @ $115 = $940
    Two 215 Watt Kyocera panels @ $246 each + TriStar 45 Amp MPPT controller @ $410 = $902

    The second array & controller option listed there is slightly more Watts and slightly more charging power too. And if Rogue would get their new 30 Amp MPPT controller shipping that would be even cheaper.
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    Hi again! I like a lot of these suggestions. It turns out that the needs and roofspace I have lend themselves more to a 360W supply system, like you're talking about with a 220Ah deep cycle battery, and then I'll probably use a 300W inverter to limit the draw and keep the the battery from depleting.

    I still have a few questions:
    1. I'm putting these panels on a gazebo-type structure with one roof facing SE and one facing SW. Since all my panels are angled 45 degrees away from south, the maximum I can get out of them is 0.707 of the maximum rated value, correct? So if I have 510W of panels (255W on each face), the maximum I'll get is 360W at around noon, correct?
    2. If I have two types of panels, one pair supplying 5.43A each at 37.7V and the other pair supplying 4.15A each at 18.1V, and I put the smaller panels in series to double the voltage up to 36.2V, what is the effect on the efficiency? Will I get close to 5.43A + 5.43A + 4.15A = 15.01A?
    3. Does the situation with the two different angles from the sun have an effect on the Voltage throughout the day? And would MPPT then be better? Or does it only affect current, and can I save on buying a cheaper 30A PWM charge controller?
    4. I'm having some trouble finding generic information on charge controllers. Will it be okay to run a 30A charge controller to charge a 12V battery with nearly 360W of input? It seems rather close to the maximum operating amperage.
    5. Can I put everything I need (except for the panels, of course) in one box, creatively and safely displayed as an educational tool? I'm talking combiner box, charge controller, battery, DC disconnect, inverter -- the whole kit! And how big would that box need to be? Do I need special ventilation? I was hoping to bury it in the center of the gazebo with a glass roof.

    Thanks!
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    After some further research, I'm seeing that MPPT might be necessary to step-down the voltage from 36V or 38V to the 12V battery. Is that correct?

    Also, some sites are telling me that for small, low power PV systems, a combiner box may not be necessary. If I can connect my panels directly, I can save space and money.
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    Arrow wrote: »
    1. I'm putting these panels on a gazebo-type structure with one roof facing SE and one facing SW. Since all my panels are angled 45 degrees away from south, the maximum I can get out of them is 0.707 of the maximum rated value, correct? So if I have 510W of panels (255W on each face), the maximum I'll get is 360W at around noon, correct?
    Actually the amount of wattage will usually be closer to the panels Normal operating Cell Temperature value (NOCT) which tends to be around 75-80% of the panel rating done in standard Test Conditions(STC) so "normal" use I would use this number to start.

    I shallow roof with panels mounted SE and SW could both be near max during Summer when the sun is high in the sky and less in the Winter when the sun is lower in the sky. but you do have the general idea.
    Arrow wrote: »
    2. If I have two types of panels, one pair supplying 5.43A each at 37.7V and the other pair supplying 4.15A each at 18.1V, and I put the smaller panels in series to double the voltage up to 36.2V, what is the effect on the efficiency? Will I get close to 5.43A + 5.43A + 4.15A = 15.01A?
    With the panel voltage that close 37.7 and 36.2V your not loosing much, but this is charging voltage for a 24 volt battery bank and would require a MPPT type charge controller to efficiently charge a 12 volt nominal battery bank.
    Arrow wrote: »
    3. Does the situation with the two different angles from the sun have an effect on the Voltage throughout the day? And would MPPT then be better? Or does it only affect current, and can I save on buying a cheaper 30A PWM charge controller?
    When producing meaningful current the voltage will be close to the rated VMP of the panel, heat/cell temperature will reduce the voltage. To use a PWM charge controller on a 12 volt system, you would want panels with a VMP of around 17.5volts. They are still available at reasonable cost per watt, I'll PM you some links later today.
    Arrow wrote: »
    4. I'm having some trouble finding generic information on charge controllers. Will it be okay to run a 30A charge controller to charge a 12V battery with nearly 360W of input? It seems rather close to the maximum operating amperage.
    You may run higher than this during cool fall and winter times. I wouldn't risk it, unless your charge controller caps it's production or can be limited.
    Arrow wrote: »
    5. Can I put everything I need (except for the panels, of course) in one box, creatively and safely displayed as an educational tool? I'm talking combiner box, charge controller, battery, DC disconnect, inverter -- the whole kit! And how big would that box need to be? Do I need special ventilation? I was hoping to bury it in the center of the gazebo with a glass roof.
    The batteries and the charge controller need to be in separate compartments, the out gassing of batteries is corrosive to metals, and potentially explosive. You will also need to service the batteries, adding water from time to time, checking every couple weeks or so.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    Photowhit wrote: »
    The batteries and the charge controller need to be in separate compartments, the out gassing of batteries is corrosive to metals, and potentially explosive.

    A very fine point.... the out gassing is hydrogen and oxygen and the hydrogen is explosive. What is corrosive is the sulfuric acid mist that gets carried out of the battery by the outgassing. The mist can be minimized by Water Miser battery caps. Photowhit is quite correct... do not put the controller in the battery box, even if you do use water miser battery caps.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    I'm a little worried about all this gassing and mist around students. I've read that AGM batteries are safer (if more expensive). If I build a physical divider between the battery and the rest of the system (say, out of wood), could I put them in the same 3ft x 2ft below ground display with a glass ceiling?
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    Photowhit wrote: »
    Actually the amount of wattage will usually be closer to the panels Normal operating Cell Temperature value (NOCT) which tends to be around 75-80% of the panel rating done in standard Test Conditions(STC) so "normal" use I would use this number to start.

    I shallow roof with panels mounted SE and SW could both be near max during Summer when the sun is high in the sky and less in the Winter when the sun is lower in the sky. but you do have the general idea. With the panel voltage that close 37.7 and 36.2V your not loosing much, but this is charging voltage for a 24 volt battery bank and would require a MPPT type charge controller to efficiently charge a 12 volt nominal battery bank.When producing meaningful current the voltage will be close to the rated VMP of the panel, heat/cell temperature will reduce the voltage. To use a PWM charge controller on a 12 volt system, you would want panels with a VMP of around 17.5volts. They are still available at reasonable cost per watt, I'll PM you some links later today.You may run higher than this during cool fall and winter times. I wouldn't risk it, unless your charge controller caps it's production or can be limited. The batteries and the charge controller need to be in separate compartments, the out gassing of batteries is corrosive to metals, and potentially explosive. You will also need to service the batteries, adding water from time to time, checking every couple weeks or so.

    Thanks for the info! I think in that case I can change my panel configuration. Instead of two nominally 185W and two 70W panels, whose NOCT would definitely be too high for a 30A charge controller, I'll just go for two 205W panels with NOCT of 148W, 5.43A at 34.4V. Then I'll use a 30A MPPT charge controller to charge a 24V 200Ah AGM battery. I don't think I'll have to worry about maxing any of the components out. I doubt the panels will ever get close to their theoretical combined maximum of 410W, given their configuration and the high temperature. They might hit 360W on especially sunny days, but I'll look for a charge controller that can handle it somehow.
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    If I'm using MC4 connectors, which are rated to 20A and 600V, do I need to use a DC disconnect? My system never gets close to those values!
  • NorthGuy
    NorthGuy Solar Expert Posts: 1,913 ✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    Arrow wrote: »
    If I'm using MC4 connectors, which are rated to 20A and 600V, do I need to use a DC disconnect? My system never gets close to those values!

    Yes, because you may need to disconnect it. Disconnecting an MC4 connector under full power will most likely produce lots of sparks and destroy the connector.
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    NorthGuy wrote: »
    Yes, because you may need to disconnect it. Disconnecting an MC4 connector under full power will most likely produce lots of sparks and destroy the connector.

    Correct. And even if you cover the panels with a blanket, MC4 is not a good choice... they are not meant to be connected and disconnected repeatedly. Anderson makes some connectors that are designed to be used repeatedly.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools

    There is no reason why you should have to disconnect and reconnect panels repeatedly. They do not have to be turned on and off. There is no reason they would be disconnected while under power either, as it is simple enough to drop the power by removing the load (the batteries, which should have a disconnect on them). Mine have been disconnected once since install, in order to replace the roof.

    You do not need a disconnect on a solar array unless prescribed by law.

    If you have a circuit breaker on the whole array that is a sufficient disconnect, no matter what anyone says. We are not talking about switching on and off like a light here. You have to understand the function of a circuit and what components are needed and suitable. You wouldn't expect a switch to be used as a breaker nor vice versa.
  • Arrow
    Arrow Registered Users Posts: 11
    Re: Laptop Charging Station for Schools
    Photowhit wrote: »
    Actually the amount of wattage will usually be closer to the panels Normal operating Cell Temperature value (NOCT) which tends to be around 75-80% of the panel rating done in standard Test Conditions(STC) so "normal" use I would use this number to start.

    I shallow roof with panels mounted SE and SW could both be near max during Summer when the sun is high in the sky and less in the Winter when the sun is lower in the sky. but you do have the general idea.

    I think I misinterpreted what you meant by this. Did you mean that rather than the STC 510W of the sytem, I should actually start from the NOCT value, and expect to get about root(2)/2 of that value at an angle of 45 degrees? Or did you mean that even though my panels are facing SE and SW, I can expect a pretty consistent power output close to the NOCT value?

    Thanks!