I need a hand to get this correct

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  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    If you are building a rig from scratch, boating centers have several high efficiency compressors/cold plates, and you build your own fridge, and insulate it yourself. Now if you can get the vacuum insulating panels they use in some energy star fridges....
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • icarusicarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    The difference between the EX 1000 and the EU 1000 is the difference between a 1968 Toyota Corona, and a 2009 Prius. They will both take you down the road at 70 mph, but the Prius will burn ~1/3 the gas, be much quieter, and (probably) weigh less).

    The Eu 1000 does weigh 29#. I shipped a EX 1000 to a member here a year of so ago, and it weighed over 50# to ship.

    Tony

    PS. The Eu 1000 nearly can't be heard 25' from the building, even with the opposite side windows open.
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 32,800 admin
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    FYI: one cold plate mfg. (don't know anything about the vendor).
    Classic Air Cooled 12 Volt Cold Plate System
    • Pre-charged with environment-friendly R134a refrigerant
    • Refrigerates up to 5 cubic feet
    • Easy to install as no water pump or through-hull required
    • Can be installed in any well ventilated space
    • Runs an average of 4-6 hrs per day to keep the cold plate fully frozen
    • Draws 6 amps while running, current consumption average 30 amps [amp*hours?] per 24 hour period, after initial freeze-down.
    Cold plate size: 16"H x 10"W x 2.5"D (40.6 x 25.4 x 6.4 cm)
    Condenser unit size: 12"H x 12"W x 8"D (30.5 x 30.5 x 23.3cm)

    That is not bad:
    • 30 AH * 12 volts = 360 WH per 5 cuft... (0.35 kWH per day)
    As Mike suggests--Build your own foamed in fridge/freezer to fit the spaces available, and throw a cold plate system in there. Will operate at up to 45 degrees off level.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Tony, I did check on the weight of the Eu over the EX, Yes mine i guess is old , about 2 weeks of life support it has done , (Not for us , were semi self) Half weight ..


    Now whats this inverter word that there throwing out there, another buzz word ?

    Is this unit spinning a DC generator and using the commutator to produce DC then there inverting it to AC ?? I did a hows stuff works and wikkie out , stuff we know due to transistors switching a DC to AC .

    Either way , there 1/2 weight.

    Now mikes suggestion for the Boat fridge is great , ONLY thing , i have lived this life with my boat , and a fridge ..They work , BUT the maintenance / vibration leaks /ETC , kinda like a junk ac system in a car. B.O.A.T is break open another thousand , and that could be time as well as $.
    Best suggestion so-far is the 3way cooler , and if need be a 220 heater replacement to 110 , while on the South American area's..

    I also look at it this way , if the fridge / cooler pooches , buying another without have to come all the way back to the shop with such an elaborate system.

    Try to find stuff in the places were not use to can be very hard.


    VT
  • icarusicarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    As I understand it, the inverter generator produces DC,and then electronically inverts it to AC. By doing this, it doesn't rely on the rpm of the generator to keep the phase right, but rather it does it with the inverter. The benefit of this is that the generator can "dial down" it's rpm to suit the load, only running up to full rpm as needed. This results in considerable fuel savings as well, as much of the fuel in conventional portable genny is used just to keep the engine at 3600 rpm to keep it at 60hz.

    My Eu 1000 runs the 20 amp Xantrex True Charge (as well as the whole house except the vacuum cleaner, while at near idle speed.

    I am not in Auz, but in NW Ontario. Lot of friends down under though.

    Did you see the link I posted about the Dometic portable 3 way fridge?

    Tony
  • stephendvstephendv Solar Expert Posts: 1,571 ✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Nice project! I don't see why you would need a generator though, you already have one in the form of the car's engine + alternator. You may have to beef the alternator up a bit and could then install a split bank system to first charge the starter battery and then your auxiliary bank.

    I can understand that an RV with more space and that will spend more time parked might need a dedicated gen like the honda EU's. But the land cruiser is a much smaller vehicle and space is at a premium - why waste it on another internal combustion engine, when you already have one? I'd guess that you'll spend a lot more time driving the thing than being sat stationary in some camping spot, so will have more opportunity to charge by engine than an RV.

    Marine electrics manufacturers stock bigger alternators and split battery systems, e.g.:
    http://www.victronenergy.com/battery-isolators-and-combiners/ and
    http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/products.html
  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct
    I can understand that an RV with more space and that will spend more time parked might need a dedicated gen like the honda EU's. But the land cruiser is a much smaller vehicle and space is at a premium - why waste it on another internal combustion engine, when you already have one?
    The land curiser engine, @ 4 cyl or whatever, at 3,000 RPM, to spin a 90A alternator (1200W @ 12V) is VERY inefficient, and will burn a lot more fuel, and auto alternators are really rated "peak watts" because as they heat up from load, they loose a lot (50% loss) of capacity. Thus, a special purpose genset that can provide 4x as much power for the same gallon of fuel, is worth it, in fuel not needed to be carried for the transport engine.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • stephendvstephendv Solar Expert Posts: 1,571 ✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    If your land cruiser is idling at 3000rpm, there's something wrong with it ;)
    I agree the stock alternator might not cut it and may need to be upgraded. I'm guessing at the OPs usage scenario, but I would think that he would spend quite a lot of time driving this vehicle which means optimal use of the engine alternator. With a split bank charging system he could mount a switch in the vehicle to turn alternator charging on or off.
  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Idleing car engine, at 800rpm or whatever, does not spin alternator at either a high enough speed for much output, or effective cooling. I doubt at idle, you get more than a couple amps in any car. So to get appreciable electric power, you have to have rpm's up into the upper mid range, where the alternator can cool itself, and produce output. Pulley ratio needs consideration, you have to be able to redline the engine, and stay below the alt's self-destruct speed, and at idle, not run the battery down. Specialty parts can aid this, but you won't be able to sustain output at idle. While cruising, big loads are fine, but I thought there were going to be parked times, and solar may not be able to keep up with it.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Automotive alternators don't produce their maximum output at idle.

    The biggest advantage to having a stand-alone gen would be if the truck battery were dead (for whatever reason) you could charge it up. Redundant power sources are good if you're in the middle of nowhere.

    The inverter gens have two sets of windings: one for the AC out and one for the DC out. I suspect the circuitry is more about adjusting frequency relative to the engine speed. It does say don't use AC & DC simultaneously, although that is probably due to the strain on the engine trying to supply full output to both windings.
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 32,800 admin
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Remembering that this is a Diesel Land Cruiser with, probably, a 3,600 RPM red-line--Setting up an engine powered alternator (perhaps one designed for a boat) would be OK for this application.

    Zena (don't know anything about them)
    Balmar Alternator (good brand?)

    Balmar FAQ:
    Typically, when an alternator is working at full output, it will require approximately one horsepower for every 25 amps it produces. As such, a 100-amp high-output alternator will re up to four horsepower to operate.

    Assuming 12 volt battery--FAQ did not say (15 volts charging).

    Also saves having to carry around gasoline/petrol for the genset. And, I am not sure there is a small diesel genset is practical for his needs.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • bryanlbryanl Solar Expert Posts: 175 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    re: "Is this what you are recommending:" -- thanks for the link to Boliy -- not recommending but suggesting. The experience of friends (small sample) indicate it does as well as the Honda or Yamaha but is considerably lighter for the power output.

    A 3kW genset that a 'retired gentleman' can get into the back of his pickup truck without a ramp and winch makes for a definite plus. The weight is a significant issue. The output capacity is needed to run the A/C so the dog stays cool. It is one of those things many people find out they need often by (expensive) trial and error. (many buy too small at first).

    re: "the need to have a get set running to charge the battery's is ridiculous." -- Change the perspective to that of a proper backup for inconvenient circumstances and conditions, or perhaps to that of insurance. Then it may not be so ridiculous.

    A mobile operation, especially in the boonies, requires a careful balance of options, redundancy, and backup to reduce surprises and unpleasant situations.

    I think the inverter gensets are bit more complex than described here. I am not sure but I think they gain weight savings with many poles and other tricks. What the Boliy does to gain increased efficiency in the inverter, I don't know but it does seem to gain nearly 10% in electrical output for a similar sized engine compared to its competitors.

    For the fridge, check the threads here on the Energy Star models. There are some good cost, energy, and capital analyses in those threads with a discussion of options.

    Take a look at the Earth Roamer for how some others have met these challenges.
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 32,800 admin
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    The Honda eu family (as I understand the schematics and description) uses a 3 phase alternator in the flywheel (probably a lot like their motorcycle engines). Then there is a "black box" that takes the 3 phase wild frequency in--probably converters it to high voltage DC--then inverters that with a (what should be) sine wave inverter.

    The high voltage DC conversion allows them to operate the engine at (hopefully) the most efficient speed for needed power (in Eco Throttle Mode) for lower power outputs.

    I agree with Bryan that the more you operate >50% output rating--the less efficient the eu inverter / genset becomes vs just a well designed alternator based genset running closer to 100% rated load.

    For the most part, my loads are at the lower end of the rating curve (home emergency power, no A/C or well pumps, etc.)--so the quiet and low(er) fuel usage at lower power usage is worth the extra expense to me.

    Your mileage may vary.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • icarusicarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    The Honda EU series loses weight by more closely integrating the engine and the genset. For example, the EX series hondas have a independent engine, that is completely separate from the gen end. The EU series for example can't be separated from the engines in the same way. They don't have a flywheel like a EX, but use the gen end as a fly wheel. http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/80457230-honda-eu1000i-generator-service-and-repair-manual

    Tony
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Gents - Gents
    3000 rpm is almost red line. :D

    Yes the diesel land crusier at 800 rpm with a Bosch alt , can produce 100 amps , 1000 rpm and full alt test it can push 140-150 and its rating is 160 .
    It would burn up at that load , plus ..

    I am going to have split banks , One battery just for the Diesel , My own relay timed circuit for bring in the Truck / diesel / alt charging on to the House battery's.

    Its the House battery's solar and fridge systems I'm inquiring about.
    This diesel / truck / generator thing has been addressed.
    If i find i need a gen unit , ill buy one. BUT !! Solar and less power wasting is the way I want to go.

    This line : But the land cruiser is a much smaller vehicle and space is at a premium - why waste it on another internal combustion engine, when you already have one? I'd guess that you'll spend a lot more time driving the thing than being sat stationary in some camping spot, so will have more opportunity to charge by engine than an RV.

    I really don't want to go to any KOA or Motorhome / trailer parks if i have to.
    This Landcrusier was picked because you can get Toyota parts almost every where NOW. Ford,Dodge and Government Motors would be impossible to find parts in Europe / Africa / SA. That said , if we find a spot to hang-out and spend a few weeks to a month , it would be great , NOT to fire the diesel up , or make noise.. I know this can be done..

    Nascar , loud cranked boom music , bug zappers :p won't be packed in the LC.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Mr Tony

    Was pulling your leg on being from down under ..Been on the lakes in your neck of the woods years ago.
    Great info on the inverters , I'll go play with one , and see.
    As with your question : Did you see the link I posted about the Dometic portable 3 way fridge?

    Yes , and i do believe we will be going that way. If it breaks , buying a replacement is a much better way than ever trying to get a Zerk-Wazta in Argentina..

    Im sort of also in the bush for getting my type of stuff (weird to most) .
    Since i'm doing a roof mounted Solar PLUS , trying to find the correct Ampholl style of plug to go between roof and cabin is also going to be fun. We have a Military Base here for the catalogs , and its my trade.

    Next week Im going to call there contact numbers and see if i can get one shipped ,Either to me in Canada, or my usa house.


    VT

    Edit for Mr Bryan, i have a few more from friends that have done this, but can't seem to find there link.

    :http://www.alaska-bis-feuerland.com/

    VT
  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct
    CDN_VT wrote: »
    Yes the diesel land crusier at 800 rpm with a Bosch alt , can produce 100 amps

    I think you best verify this before you proceed. Seems impossible to me. Start it up, load it down, and check in 10 minutes. Not even sure a belt can pull that much horsepower.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct
    mike90045 wrote: »
    I think you best verify this before you proceed. Seems impossible to me. Start it up, load it down, and check in 10 minutes. Not even sure a belt can pull that much horsepower.

    Not a problem for a belt. It's really only about 2 HP. The question is; at what RPM is this set-up designed to reach peak output? You'd be amazed at the variations available in the motor/alternator world.
  • icarusicarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    While the RPM of the alternator is related to the battery, depending on the size of the pully , it is not always a 1/1 ratio. Smaller driven shieve relative to the driving sheive of course yields higher rpm, and vise versa. Problem is, what happens if you speed up the alternator at idle, and then you run the vehicle engine nearer it's red line than idle. Alternator would then spin too fast?

    Tony
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct
    icarus wrote: »
    While the RPM of the alternator is related to the battery, depending on the size of the pully , it is not always a 1/1 ratio. Smaller driven shieve relative to the driving sheive of course yields higher rpm, and vise versa. Problem is, what happens if you speed up the alternator at idle, and then you run the vehicle engine nearer it's red line than idle. Alternator would then spin too fast?

    Tony

    Depends on how much you over-drive the alternator. On a diesel, with its limited RPM range, this probably won't present a problem even at 50% OD. On a gas engine ... you might get into trouble with the bearings wearing out too quickly (they are permanently lubed and therefor meant to spin at a certain maximum RPM over a certain period of time).

    On the whole, the simplest, safest solution is to install a larger capacity alternator. For any given RPM it produces more (potential) current up to peak. Remember it only uses more HP if it has to produce more Amps (essentially). Your PS pump will draw more power.
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    My max RPM is High Idle Governed at 3600.

    That is huge noise and useless running there. I only did that rpm once while checking the setup of governor , after a little tweaking and overhaul of the fuel pump.
    Normal idle hot = 600, with throttle on warm up 750-800 , but can go to 1500 with no problem .

    Normal driving is 1500-2200 is the happy sounds of the engine / turbo/boost/ fuel usage etc. the power band of this diesel.

    Alt is from a 2007 euro SUV with all the power goop. Its red line is 6800 , and Ive been there on a electronic / slectronic automatic transmission checking shift up , waiting for the rev limiter to respond.

    SUV Front crank serp pulley is 6" / 15 cm and the spraged alt pulley is 2.25" / 6cm ..
    I was more concerned about leaving a piston than a spun field winding.

    And yes , i have done a loaded test with a VAT40 and a Midtronics units . That is one reason i have picked this alt. I have removed the regulator that this one came with , replaced it with the same type for the model , but without LAN computer control. In normal use from just the load of the SUV , with full blower , radio (infotainment system) yelling , DVD's playing (rear entertainment systems) , and Air Cond. / lights with the truck sitting for 10 mins in bumper to bumper LA freeway traffic and the electric fan in 100% duty , ALT output is 80 -100 amps @ idle in gear.

    With that there is not a good chance that charging house and truck main battery could sustain a alt pushing 100 amps for 10 mins .

    With the idea of using the propane fridge in camping mode has really lightened up the power requirements from the house battery's.


    There's another question , who has has experience with the AGM style of batteries ? I was thinking of using 4 of these , 1 truck 3 house. so far.

    VT
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Sounds like you're good to go in the alternator department. Even if it were the stock unit @ 100 Amps, it is unlikely the vehicle would ever really need that much output. The extra needed to Bulk charge the house bank could probably be included in the over-all rating. Usually you wouldn't need more than 40 Amps max for that, so ... Normal stock alternator @ 60 Amps peak plus max current requirements for secondary bank @ 40 Amps = 100 Amps. It'd be different if the truck itself wanted a 100 Amps to begin with. And let's remember this isn't the primary charging source; you can shut down all the 'extras' and devote charging to the house bank when needed.

    AGM's for the house bank is a good idea, as they are low maintenance and non-spilling/gassing so can be put most anywhere. They're a bit pickier about charging than FLA's. Also not so good for starting as they're not designed to produce sudden surges of large amounts of current.
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    CDN_VT

    Sorry you didn't understand what I was explaining. I shan't try to elaborate as it is likely to only confuse things further.
    __________________
    'Coot aka Marc

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~edit
    Understood.


    Thanks for the solar advice.

    VT
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    CDN_VT

    Sorry you didn't understand what I was explaining. I shan't try to elaborate as it is likely to only confuse things further.
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Got Panels ,controller ,inverter ordered ..

    AGM's picked up on-route.

    Thanks
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Went with this setup
    Added a Morning star 300 inverter

    Fridge is the DC unit only

    Plus some remote temp sensors , AGM battery's.

    More than enough I'm hoping ,Just shy of Tig welding :p

    I will do a setup here @ the ranch for testing ..
    Ive downloaded Mr Guppys software program just to see.. Winter should be the hardest test, but fridges aren't required as much as hot coffee / chocolate ..


    VT
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Well I'm into testing mode of the system BEFORE i hard weld / bolt it on to truck / camper.

    Im up at the 55* lat wet coast testing the panels / controller / fridge all wired in temp mode , and sitting in a green house for over one month.
    Fridge is keeping cold -3 is the lowest i've pushed it . The MS mppt every morning has a yellow medium light on the batteries(2 -lead acid large) ,till about 09:30 then its green.

    Using the SC-View_SunSaverMppt interface with the serial to Mobus connector I see all the info right then and there.

    Using the MS View , NA-DA for any real info , besides connecting and the getting involved in areas not safe YET {(Coil on/off Toggles) all instructions in microsnot legaleze , or so it seemed}..

    The help file on the MS-View is ?? Not really helpful for me.

    How do you get the MS-mppt unit to spit out is info into the MS-view program enough to see when the charging occurs, load requested , equ has been done ETC.

    I bought the stuff so far to learn the basics from. The SC-view is great for a quick look at , but i would like to see more before I start adding lighting loads and then music / DVD (all the way up to welding :) .

    I have not added the sure sine 300 to the package yet ,so far panels ,MS mppt controller ,2 battery's and the 12v DC fridge (1/2 full of water jugs) in a green house thats warm in the day and 5c coldest at night , plus very overcast in the month testing.

    VT
  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct

    Worked Well on Sure sine , lights plus the fridge / freezer for ICE @- 5c .

    The Panels on driving will now be flipped into the rack for protection of wind flex. (thats the killer of the panels) The bit about taking off from a few panels with 4 tonn truck , NaDa.

    External gens or whatever that was said to take, I can't see , Fire Diesel , 160 Amp alt , More than ever needed.


    Testing was fun , I broke one panel on speed @ 150Kms with breeze.

    I wish I bought a acreage with a stream , next is power the Ranch.

    VT
  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct
    CDN_VT wrote: »
    ......

    I wish I bought a acreage with a stream , next is power the Ranch.

    VT

    With a stream, you also need drop for hydro. I have 1,200' of creek frontage, with about 4' drop from one end to the other. I'm putting in hydro from pond overflow, to the creek, about 40' drop with a 4" pipe, will only give 200W.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • CDN_VTCDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: I need a hand to get this correct
    mike90045 wrote: »
    With a stream, you also need drop for hydro. I have 1,200' of creek frontage, with about 4' drop from one end to the other. I'm putting in hydro from pond overflow, to the creek, about 40' drop with a 4" pipe, will only give 200W.

    True , but 24 / 7 / 364 .0000025.

    Sun has many more factors.


    Im 100m / 300' over datum , 1/2 Km from the salt chuck , on a bluff / side of mountain, 10+ hectares ranch.
    Underground Aquaphor water runs out of bluff like your seen waterfalls.

    VT
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