Not measuring/getting full wattage
photonboy
Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
Folks,
I have a victron 30 Amp mppt charge controller that I am using with a folding 200W panel (100W per panel).
I am measuring ~ 20V and 5 amp on the cabling going into the charge controller, but the controller is only measuring ~105 W (~15V & 7 amps). Any thoughts on the disparity? I will likely in either case put the panels in series versus parallel for the next round of experiments?
Appreciate the help.
Chris
Comments
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Numbers look exactly like what they should be. The MPPT controller is acting like a transformer, taking the raw higher voltage solar input, and transforming down to the voltage the battery wants. As the voltage gets transformed down, the charging amperage is going up. This is exactly as it is supposed to be.BTW, if you utilized an older PWM controller, the battery would drag the voltage of the panel down to that of the battery, and then only the 5A coming in from the panel would go back out to charge.System 1) 15 Renogy 300w + 4 250W Astronergy panels, Midnight 200 CC, 8 Trojan L16 bat., Schneider XW6848 NA inverter, AC-Delco 6000w gen.System 2) 8 YingLi 250W panels, Midnight 200CC, three 8V Rolls batteries, Schneider Conext 4024 inverter (workshop)
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Thanks for the fast reply MichaelK, but the app shows both the solar input and what is actually being " transformed" and going to the battery. I would expect the solar input to measure close to what I am getting with my multimeter, and the battery input to be the "transformed" value. In either case I am about half of the wattage of the panels?
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photonboy said:I am measuring ~ 20V and 5 amp on the cabling going into the charge controller,
Solar panel rating under Standard Test Conditions (STC) is based on a 'flash' test were the solar cells never heat up. Once left in the sun panels produce closer to NOCT Normal Operating Cell Temperature values. These tend to be around 75% of the STC. Some manufacturers even post the info on the back of the panels or in their spec sheet. Here are 2 examples;
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
How are you measuring with your multimeter? Open circuit voltage, VOC, and short circuit current, ISC, are not the true output of the panel.
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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Just to be clear...
- 20 volts * 5 amps = 100 Watts into the charge controller
- 15 volts * 7 amps = 105 Watts out of charge controller
Actual power transfer should be something like 85-95% MPPT controller efficiency:- 100 Watts in * 0.9 (approx MPPT eff) = 90 Watts out
More or less, first approximating, solar panels+controller losses are closer to 76-77% of their rated STD (standard test condition) output on a hot sunny day, around solar noon, panels pointing directly at sun. 75-77% is the "best" you will typically see on a warm day in full sun.- Power = Voltage * Current
- Vmp (voltage maximum power) falls as the panels get hot (Hot day, full sun, Vmp can drop to almost 80% of Vmp(std)
Lastly, as batteries become charged, their voltage rises and they "accept" less current. I.e., if your battery bank is at 15 VDC (sounds a bit high), then the charge controller should be regulating at ~14.75 volts and the battery accepting less than full charging current.
For Lead Acid batteries--They (more or less) accept full charging current at less than 80% State of Charge... Above that level, they accept less and less current (even though there may be more solar energy available).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
There are other "inaccuracies" that can get into a system too... The standard digital volt meter (i.e., cheap type) does not always accurately read voltage and current. They assume "clean" Sine Wave or DC power.
There are True RMS reading meters (Root Mean Square) which are more accurate when measuring "noisy" DC voltage and Non-Sine Wave AC voltages...
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/electrical/what-is-true-rms
When trying to get down to 2% or better accuracy--There are lots of things that "get in the way" of better accuracy. Besides the right tool for the right job--$$$ and calibration, etc. are also issues (and don't overlook weak or near dead batteries in a DMM either).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
This hasn't been mentioned, but 20V going into the controller indicates the panels are nowhere near operating at power point which would be closer to 17V in sun. That clearly indicates the charge controller is not asking for all the power due to batteries nearing full charge.
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NANOcontrol said:This hasn't been mentioned, but 20V going into the controller indicates the panels are nowhere near operating at power point which would be closer to 17V in sun. That clearly indicates the charge controller is not asking for all the power due to batteries nearing full charge.
OP, definitely wire the panels in series with your mppt controller and be sure to test in good sun, shadow free and properly aimed panels.2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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A common mistake folks make is not realizing if the load demand is not there the PV charge controller will back down production to just meet the battery charging and AC load power demand.
When a PV charge controller backs down power output it allows array voltage to rise above normal Vmp point to allow the panels to absorb unused PV power.
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