Please help me design and purchase my setup

ZebraStripes
ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
edited July 2019 in Solar Beginners Corner #1
I'm unsure of where to even begin (So much information), so I am just going to outline what I know and hope that you guys can help me out here.

  • I live in Puerto Rico. I want to design and build a hybrid solar setup (Grid tied + battery) with the end goal being to be off the grid entirely because our electric company is complete crap and penalizes solar users (With additional penalties coming soon). Idiotic, but it is what it is. I realize going fully off-grid is probably not a reality, just due to storage needs and prices, but it is something I would like to aspire to down the road.
  • I have an 8kw propane generator currently hooked up to an automatic transfer switch. I would like to retain this generator.
  • My (Flat, cement) roof receives almost no shade during the day. Only in very early mornings (Before 6AM) and late evenings (After 5PM) do I not have full direct sunlight on my roof, at least right now.
  • We currently use around 350KwH/month. However, that number is with us only using our AC's (Mini splits) during the hottest of nights. Ideally, we want to start using them more (Constantly) in order to dehumidify the house. They would be set quite high (76-78) - we just have a lot of humidity in this location and would like to remove some of it.
  • I intend on replacing our mini splits, as they are old and inefficient and two of them are broken. I intend on going with Wifi/google assistant enabled units in order to hopefully maximize their efficiency by scheduling them to run during optimal times and conditions.
  • We have a 1HP well pump. I am considering replacing it with a low/no surge well pump, and possibly even to power it via DC. We have a cistern on our roof and my thought is that we could pump to it during the day with the solar pump, and then via gravity feed or low powered submersible pump, provide water to the house at night. This is irrelevant for the solar discussion, but just to provide an idea of what path I'm headed down.
  • I have enough roof space for approximately 24 panels in a neat grid. I can add approximately 6 more to another section of my roof.
  • I really like the looks (And reviews) of Victron Energy's stuff. I like the idea of the all in one systems (Like the Sol-Ark) but I worry about repairing them in the future.
  • My loads: 1HP well pump, DC motor ceiling fans with LED lights, 2xLCD TVs, refrigerator, deep freezer (Not purchased yet, but plan on doing it soon), 2xlaptops, networking equipment (Router, switch, modem, access points)
  • Right now, I preliminarily am looking at the following: VE Color Control GX, VE Quattro inverter/charger, VE 250/100 MPPT, VE BMV-712, VE Lithium batteries
  • Our 240v loads are: Well pump, mini splits. We have propane dryer, propane range, and solar water heating.

So, with my entire life story laid out, here are my questions (For now)

  1. Where do I start with this system? What do I need to pick out first?
  2. How do I determine which inverter/charger I need? I think the 48/10000/140-100/100 but I really am only basing that on the size of our genset. 
  3. How many MPPTs do I need? I think this is determined by the watts we're generating, right? So if I have > 5800w of panels, I would need two of the VE 250/100 MPPTs?
  4. VE lists their Lithium batteries as 12.8 and 25.6V. I'm assuming then that wiring two of the 25.6V batteries in series gives me what is essentially the same as 48V. IE their "25.6" V is the same (In essence) as a "24"V from another manufacturer?
  5. What else am I missing / not considering?

I have tried to get quotes from local companies but it has been very difficult, so now I'm just going to do it myself. I am quite familiar with AC systems and have done some DC wiring (Boats). IE, I'm not scared of the project, and intend on doing it right. I just need help figuring out all of the pieces. It's hurricane season and I'm itching to get this going ASAP.

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Figuring out loads is generally the most important (but often overlooked) first step.  It appears you have a decent grasp of this, which is refreshing.

    At >10kwh/day, and looking to increase that, you're getting into a fairly large system.  As air conditioning is a major load, now would be a good time to firm up the design for that, and to consider whether increasing insulation etc might be practical to keep the sizing of solar reasonable.

    Knowing your design loads are (eg) 15kwh/day, you then decide how much storage is needed to run those loads when little/no sun shines (night, gloomy weather, etc.).  Typically 2 days is considered reasonable off-grid, day 3 you start the generator to charge and support loads.  In your case, this would be 30kwh.  At 48v nominal, that's ~625 amp-hours of usable storage.  Lead acid is considered ~50% usable, so about a 1300ah@48v bank.  For that size, I'd use 24 individual 2v cells.  Lithium is more like 80-90% usable, so more like 700-750ah (note some lithiums are rated for usable, not total capacity, with the in-built BMS keeping it in the usable range).  Some are limited in their ability to be put into series strings and/or paralleled.

    Once storage is determined, the next step is proper charging.  In PR, you likely get good sun (you might want to check for your location at something like pvwatts.nrel.gov

    If you have (eg) 6hrs of average daily full sun equivalent, take total pv wattage x 6 x 75%.  24 panels at say 300w is 7.2kw x 6 x 75% is ~32kwh/day.  This would just about cover charging a two day charging deficit at 15kwh/day, but loads on the third day would mean it might take a day or two more to catch up.

    7.2kw ÷ 48v charging is 150a, so two 100a charge controllers.

    One downside to big inverters is they tend to take a lot of power just being on.  If it takes (eg)50w and is on 24hrs, that's 1.2kwh, almost enough to run s full sized fridge.  One way to minimize these losses is to run multiple inverters stacked in parallel, so only a master is 'lit' and slave units stay in sleep mode until required by loads.  Some inverters can also be series stacked for 240v loads.

    Lots to think about, but I'd suggest starting with the air conditioning design and any available conservation measures.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2019 #3
    How deep is your well,  do you really need the 1hp pump ?  Can you get enough water with a 3-wire 240V 1/2 hp pump ?

    I ask, because the fancy, expensive DC pumps, if / when they fail, will be several days to get a replacement.  But every pump shop has gear for standard AC pumps.


    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    Thank you for your well thought out reply. Very helpful! I've done enough reading that now everything is starting to jumble together, so talking it through with someone is very helpful.

    We actually want to get solar going before the ACs are done, primarily because using them isn't an urgent matter but reliable electricity is. Do you know of any resources that describe how often and how long mini splits tend to cycle their compressors on? It's difficult for me to know what to expect when I don't know how often they run.

    One idea I had (And please tell me if this is completely idiotic) was to go ahead with my panels, battery bank, etc... and stay connected to the grid and simply use my panels to offset the cost of running the ACs all day. Then, after a month or so, I'd have a good idea of how much energy we are looking at, and could scale up the array and / or battery bank as needed. Is that stupid / would I end up wasting a ton of money doing it that way? I can't see any real downsides.  Unfortunately, this type of construction doesn't lend itself to insulation. It's a concrete block shell - There is no insulation anywhere, and adding it would be pretty expensive because you're basically talking about furring out the walls, insulating the void, and then covering them with drywall. 

    Regarding storage - I was looking at creating a bank of 4x200ah lithium batteries (https://elementzenergy.com/producto/lithium-battery/?attribute_pa_model=lifepo4-battery-12-8v-200ah-smart) which I was thinking would give me at least 2 days at current use. It sounds like my guesstimations were correct. On a normal day (IE the sun is out all day), would 800ah be sufficient to keep the AC's running at night? I know it's impossible to say, but gut instinct here...for a high efficiency mini split system set at a relatively high temp, would that battery bank last through the night until the sun was back out? If so, it seems like I could become almost grid independent (IE still grid-tied, but not actually using anything from them) with enough panels to ensure the batteries get charged up daily.

    I should have mentioned - Yes, I have been to pvwatts and at my location, with a 7.2kw array, my lowest month of production is 814kwh and my highest is 944kwh. Those numbers are FAR higher than what we currently use (Last month was 331).

    OK, understood on sizing the charge controllers. How do I determine my strings? Is it simply a matter of making the string large enough to keep the inverter running and small enough to cause it to not catch on fire?

    Good point on the big inverters. I hadn't thought of that. I know the Victron Quattros can be stacked to give 240 single phase, but I'll have to read up more on it - I feel like I should be able to have a Quattro for the grid tie + genset starting, and then a much simpler device for the other 120v leg. I will look into the power requirements there.

    Thanks again for the detailed reply. This is helping me figure things out
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    @mike95490 I am not 100% sure on the pump size nor the depth of the well. The previous owner of this house thinks it's a 1HP pump. Unfortunately, the motor plate is covered in cement so it's almost impossible to read. I'll try to go out there today and see if I can't find out for sure what the size is. It may be that it's only 1/2HP and that the well is shallow, I really don't know. Looking at your chart, I can see how a 1HP pump might pose a small problem. That's quite the draw it has...
  • littleharbor2
    littleharbor2 Solar Expert Posts: 2,039 ✭✭✭✭✭
    For 800Ah @ 48 volts you will need 16 of those 12 volt lithium batteries. Not sure about complications with series/parallel configurations with those batteries. With 2 volt FLA or AGM batteries you can configure a battery bank to fit your needs in a single string and for considerably less $$$$.

    2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old  but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric,  460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.

  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    @littleharbor2 What's the math on that? I thought that if I had 4 200ah batteries, no matter how they were wired, I have 800ah of capacity. Is that not accurate? Because that's what I was looking into was 4 200ah lifepo4 batteries.

    I am not opposed to FLA or AGM, I just like the life expectancy of the Lifepo4 batteries and the no maintenance thing...
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    4 x 200ah@12v batteries can be wired in parallel for 800ah@12v, or in series for 200ah@48v.  The total wattage stored is the same either way, but at 12v, current flow will be 4x vs 48v.  Running pumps etc, you'll want 48v.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    @Estragon That was my understanding already. @littleharbor2 says I'll need 16 12 volt batteries for 800ah, and I don't understand why I wouldn't just need 4 to get to 800ah stored. Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here...

    Is it this forum's opinion that the typical user like me would be better off going with a large bank of 2V FLA/AGM batteries over Lithium? I like the lithium for the long life and ease of installation (Fewer connections to make) but I also like saving money and getting more bang for my buck.
  • littleharbor2
    littleharbor2 Solar Expert Posts: 2,039 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The key here is that I'm referring to a 48 volt system which is what you will need for your large power requirements. 

    2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old  but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric,  460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.

  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Block construction can actually work in your favour in off-grid air conditiong.  The large thermal mass can be cooled while the sun shines, and will take longer to warm up than stick built.  

    I added 4" of rigid foam board insulation to the exterior of my stick built cabin in Canada, and it's made the difference between needing air conditioning at all or not.  Your climate is obviously different, but insulation and subsequent reduction in cooling load would likely be cheaper than the solar gear needed to run a bigger load in the long run.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In your application, you'd be better off wiring for 200ah@48v.  Wiring for 800ah@12v means 4x more charge controller capacity ( 150a pv to 48v bank becomes 600a to a 12v bank), and (eg) 10kw inverter output needs ~1000adc from a 12v bank, which is really unwieldy in terms of wire size etc.

    Watts is volts x amps.  At lower voltage for a given wattage, amperage is proportionately higher.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited July 2019 #13
    @littleharbor2 So I get that the ah changes depending on how the battery bank is wired, but Isn't the total Kwh stored the same, no matter what? So if I want to store 9.6Kwh of energy, would I not be able to use 4x200ah@12v wired in series OR parallel? It's clear I'm missing something important here, just trying to figure out what that is.

    @Estragon We actually were hoping that the thermal mass would work in our favor. We were thinking that by cooling it down and keeping it there, the energy requirements (For storage) might be less, vs running it only at night, after it has been baking all day. We have discussed insulating the outside of the house and then stuccoing it or something, but right now that's not a priority. Right now we need to get some sort of self-sustaining energy solution in place so that if another Maria hits, we'll be able to weather it.

    If we have to stay grid tied and only use our solar panels to offset our grid usage, that's completely fine. In the event that another disaster strikes, we won't be worrying about AC, so we really just need our battery bank to sustain our day to day, not including AC usage. If we can afford to make it bigger, then we will.
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Lithiums have advantages (somewhat lower weight, smaller size for a given amount of  storage, ability to survive partial state of charge for long periods, and more usable power for a given amp-hour rating).  Many claim long cycle life expectancy, but they're new enough that actual life in off-grid, field use conditions is a bit of an open question.  They also require cell-level battery management systems, which adds to cost and possible modes of failure.  Not really an issue for you, but they work best in room temperature conditions, and are unhappy if too hot or too cold.

    Shipping costs can be a big factor in landed cost, but when I've run numbers on lithium vs flooded lead acid, FLA ends up cheaper.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, kwh storage is the same either way.  With the higher amperage at 12v, higher wire losses might mean less usable power, but watts stored is the same.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • Raj174
    Raj174 Solar Expert Posts: 795 ✭✭✭✭
    @ZebraStripes

    I don't know much about the Victron system, however you might want to consider the Outback Skybox for your installation. It's 5000 watts,  flexible and relatively easy to install. Solar panels are added in 2 series strings, so for example you could start out with 2 strings of 9 panels and add more later if necessary. It can also use lithium batteries. I think for your needs, you'll need a minimum of 360 to 400AH (Lithium battery) at 48 volts nominal. That would probably carry you a couple of days through bad weather if not using A/C. Although bad weather probably won't be a problem since you already have a backup generator. Under normal conditions, I would say, that this system should produce enough power to keep you off grid most of the time including mini split A/C use, and could access the grid automatically for support if necessary.  

    I say this because my system is similar. It's a 4000 watt Outback Radian hybrid inverter with a 195AH Lithium battery bank. We use about 10 kWh per day and during winter and spring, while not using A/C, and we are off grid much of the time. We have also gone through a couple of hurricanes without power interruption.
     
    Rick

    The attached PDF describes the product.

     
    4480W PV, MNE175DR-TR, MN Classic 150, Outback Radian GS4048A, Mate3, 51.2V 360AH nominal LiFePO4, Kohler Pro 5.2E genset.
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    @Raj174 I just like that Victron has been around forever and is well regarded in the space. I also like that the components are individually replaceable in the event that something goes wrong. I have looked into the Outback, Sol-Ark, and other all in one solutions, and I just don't feel super comfortable with them. No particular reason, I just don't like the idea of not being able to replace an individual component that goes bad. Maybe I'm just being paranoid though.

    Thank you for your input and numbers. I do like the idea of starting small (Fewer panels, less storage) and adding to it (Assuming I went with lithium and not FLA/AGM)
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    FWIW, I field replaced component boards in one of my (off-grid) Outbacks a few years back, and it was a fairly straightforward process.  I don't know about the Radian, but I imagine it has field replaceable components as well.

    Victron would be among what I'd consider top tier vendors (which would also include Schneider, Outback, Magnum, Midnite, and Morningstar).  AFAIK, Victron does better in European and marine markets than some of the others.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • littleharbor2
    littleharbor2 Solar Expert Posts: 2,039 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2019 #19
    Yes ,watt hours doesn't change. The thing is we're talking about AMP HOURS. A 48 volt 800 amp hour battery has 38,400 watt hours a 48 volt 200 Ah battery has 9,600 watt hours. Considering your average use of over 10,000 watt hours a day I doubt you are going to want a 9.600 watt hour battery.

    2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old  but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric,  460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.

  • Raj174
    Raj174 Solar Expert Posts: 795 ✭✭✭✭
    @Raj174 I just like that Victron has been around forever and is well regarded in the space. I also like that the components are individually replaceable in the event that something goes wrong. I have looked into the Outback, Sol-Ark, and other all in one solutions, and I just don't feel super comfortable with them. No particular reason, I just don't like the idea of not being able to replace an individual component that goes bad. Maybe I'm just being paranoid though.

    Thank you for your input and numbers. I do like the idea of starting small (Fewer panels, less storage) and adding to it (Assuming I went with lithium and not FLA/AGM)
    That's fine, just try to make sure that the equipment you buy has the ability to achieve your objective. This is especially true of hybrid inverters and the way the various brands implement grid interactive modes of operation. One of the costliest mistakes often made is buying the wrong equipment for the intended project. 
    4480W PV, MNE175DR-TR, MN Classic 150, Outback Radian GS4048A, Mate3, 51.2V 360AH nominal LiFePO4, Kohler Pro 5.2E genset.
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    Does anyone have any knowledge of these Fortress power batteries? Per-kWh, they seem to be the cheapest lithium option around, and they come in a nice compact little package. I'm leaning strongly toward them as of now due to that reason.
  • Dave Angelini
    Dave Angelini Solar Expert Posts: 6,731 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Unless it has recently changed Victron is not UL listed for installation in NA.
    "we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
       htps://offgridsolar1.com/
    E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net

  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    @Dave Angelini there is a local company that only sells Victron equipment so I figured it was all good. I'm not stuck on Victron though and still exploring options
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    One plus to the battery is according to the Victron datasheet it can be used in banks of up to 10 in parallel.  IIRC, some can be much more limiting. 
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • Dave Angelini
    Dave Angelini Solar Expert Posts: 6,731 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    The UL listing is mostly only important if it will be inspected. If you had insurance and a fire, the insurance could be void withould the listing. This may or may not not be an issue in PR. Good to know and ask about! Most offgrid is not inspected but doing a quality installation often solves other issues. I have done a few down in PR and they were not inspected. Beautiful place!
    "we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
       htps://offgridsolar1.com/
    E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net

  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited July 2019 #26
    @Estragon The Fortress Power battery can connect up to 8 in parallel, which is definitely a plus for that one. I intend on expanding this solar setup in the future to power our (very) small casita, and being able to add another battery to power that new load PLUS give us extra capacity in our main house is a real selling point. I didn't look into the expandability of the Victron batteries - I just assumed they could be expanded to fill whatever need I had. I now see that they can be expanded to 10, which is definitely far more than we would ever hope to implement...

    @Dave Angelini Thanks for the insight on the UL listing. I actually have a "power shed" away from the house, and this is where the batteries, controllers, etc... will go, so not worried about any issues there affecting the house. And yeah, no inspections here. Even the couple of quotes I've received from actual registered solar companies here say there won't be any inspections (Which is part of the reason I want to do this myself - I'll take more care to do this properly than some company who only wants to get in and get out). Do you have a company/system you prefer to work with over Victron? Sounds like you've done quite a few installations.

    And yes, PR is beautiful. Part of the reason we decided to move here to raise our family :)
  • Dave Angelini
    Dave Angelini Solar Expert Posts: 6,731 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    So after more reading and price searching, I really think I'm going to go with the Fortress Power battery. It's cheap (Compared to other Lithium batteries), it's locally available, and it's extremely easy to expand in the future if needed.

    Now though I am seriously looking at Schneider for the electronics. It seems that I can get their stuff more easily than Victron, and they are highly regarded in this space.
  • ZebraStripes
    ZebraStripes Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭✭
    Ha @Dave Angelini you posted while I was writing that last message. Funny you mention them, as that's what I'm looking at now.

    What's the difference between the XW Pro and the XW+? The AltE store has the XW+ available right now on-island, but I'd have to wait on the XW Pro to be shipped to their warehouse here in order to use it.

    I'm actually researching their stuff now trying to piece it all together. If I have 24 x 300W panels, do I need their 60A or 80A charge controllers (Or more than one?) I'm having a hard time understanding their datasheet - Maybe because I've been researching solar for a week straight lol
  • Dave Angelini
    Dave Angelini Solar Expert Posts: 6,731 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    I just give general advice on the forum here. It is not hard to contact me and others may be of help here also. Schneider has a strong presence in PR so it is a good choice.  Getting close to happy hour, here that is.....Good Luck!
    "we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
       htps://offgridsolar1.com/
    E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net

  • paulcheung
    paulcheung Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭
    edited August 2019 #31
    You can't go wrong with Schneider products. Get the XW6848+ or the new XWPRO. with two of their 80 amps charge controllers. combox and the new gateway. you all set. As batteries, you can get the lithium or the Trojan industrial line 920 amps 20 hours rate FLA batteries. 

    You have grid right now. right? the XW6848+ have grid support that is very useful when there are overcast without sun. you can even use it to load shave with battery so you don't draw too much power from the battery.

    The new inverter type mini-split AC don't cycle. At least if it does I didn't know it. I have a 12000 BTU Windy brand. I have a master bed room 22ft X 28ft X 10ft high, it start with ~800 watts first and after the room cool down it start to draw ~400 watts. my AC use about 5 kwh in the night. 

    I use 28 to 31 Kwh each day, I have 32 225 watt to 250 watts mix panels total 7000+ watts, with XW6848+ and 2 outback charge controller. I use between 280 to 450 Kwh from the power company in the nights. 




    XW6848+ Magnum 4448PAE (Backup) 7800 watts total mixed Panels, 370 AH @48volts battery bank. Grid assist and soon be Tied.