In a 48 volt system, my guess is you will be fine with 10 gauge, In you are combining at the array and running a single set of wires to your charge controller, you will be around 70 volts 28 amps. Looks like 8 gauge will Bring you in for a 3 percent drop. The voltage from the panels will drop off in the heat but should keep you in the charging range for a PWM charge controller. This is where the advantage of an MPPT type charge controller can help, you typically want your incoming voltage to be around 2x the charging voltage. So your wires would typically carry around 120 volts (4 - 60 cell panels in series) That will carry 30 amps on 10 gauge wire with a 3% loss or output from a 4000 watt array. Though this might get you close to dangerous VOC numbers.
Mid Missouri here. Only problem I've had is I quit getting the batteries for my emergency radio for the Nuke plant down the road. They use the power companies address list!
Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.
Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.
You said, " ... I also have these 24 volt panels and that's what I was wondering if they were compatible if I wired the 24 volt panels in 48 ... "
As BB Bill, and believe Photowhit noted before, these PVs are NOT, NOT 24 V PVs. They ARE 60 Cell PVs, with a Vmp (the voltage rating that matters most for compatibility) of about 30 volts.
REAL 24 V PVs have a Vmp from about 35 - 37 volts. Those Sharp PVs have a Vmp of about 15% lower than any REAL 12 V PVs, wired in series, in your case, wired in strings of four 12 V PVs, compared to strings of two of the 230 Watt Sharp PVs.
Two of those Sharps will not have sufficient output voltage to contribute any real charging.
EDIT: Did search for a similar number to what you posted above, and even eliminating the space between the 2 and 3 (these are 230 watt PVs, would bet), still there are no hits on that number ... but almost all 230-ish watt PVs ARE 60 Cells, and that makes the Vmp between about 29.5 and 30.7 V. Generally the Poly PVs having Vmps in the lower part of that range ...
Not to try to be too assertive ... FWIW, Vic
Could you please confirm the model number of those tow Sharp PVs? There are a number of Sharp 230 watt PV model numbers, and it would really be good to be speaking about the exact PVs that you have ...
OR, could you please note what the label on the rear of each of these PVs says for the Vmp, and Imp, and good to confirm that each of these two PVs are identical ...
Thanks for the data on those Sharp 230 W PVs. Doing the calc, looks like with 230 W, and the noted Imp of 7.67A, that the Vmp is very close to 30.00 Volts (29.99 V). And in poking around on the net, looks like that the ap-130s have a surprisingly high Vmp of about 18.9 V. So two of those in series yields about 37.8 V string Vmp. This difference is quite large, more than 20 %, so these two types of PVs will probably not work at all well together.
Furthermore, the String Vmp of the two Sharp 230s will be 60 volts, which will mostly be insufficient to add much charge for a 48 volt battery, especially a Flooded battery..
This may not be worth the effort to try using the Sharps with the APs. We do not yet know what type of Charge Controller (CC) that you will wind up using, but even with a PWM CC, it seems that the contribution of the Sharp PVs will be fairly small, IMO.
FWIW, Thanks for the info, Vic
48volt can be dangerous, but just treat it all like it will kill you!
understand that there is no trouble working when the circuit is not complete. Run your panels in series to a breaker that is open, then close the breaker when you're ready to initiate your system. When I here about big arcs I cringe. I believe you will need a combiner box for the strings of panels as well.
So just the wiring of the battery Banks separate from the solar can also be a danger I guess?
You lost me sir on the Magnum inverter I don't have one... I'm confused?
18.9 Voc (voltage open circuit) is a bit "odd"... Nominally Voc would be >21 VDC and Vmp would be ~17.5-19.0 volts for a "12 volt" battery charging solar panel.Vmp falls as panels get hot... If you have cool batteries and very hot weather--Vmp-array of 70 volts is starting to skirt the edge of "efficient/proper" charging on hot days.Are you sure that Voc~18.9 VDC? (voltage open circuit)I would guess that Vmp~18.9 VDC is more likely (and much more standard for voltage maximum power).Using a voltage drop calculator:http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=2.061&voltage=48&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=55&distanceunit=feet&eres=27&x=70&y=10Voltage drop: 1.87Voltage drop percentage: 3.90%Voltage at the end: 46.13That is based on 48 volts... If your array was Vmp-array~18 volts or 72 volts for four panels in series:http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=2.061&voltage=72&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=55&distanceunit=feet&eres=27&x=63&y=4Voltage drop: 1.87Voltage drop percentage: 2.60%Voltage at the end: 70.13And 8 AWG wire would be OK. We recommend around 1% to 3% voltage drop--You are getting close to 3% drop.-Bill