Need Solar Regulator that is NOT PWM or MPPT and must be low emf

JDark

I am extremely electrosensitive!!! After several small strokes, I am having to move rural: no wifi, no cell towers, no smart meters. This means I must have a low emf solar system for my power or be in the dark. This kind of thing is very "outside the box" for most in the solar industry. I am in need of a charge regulator that is NOT MPPT or PWM. I also must avoid digital technologies in the controller. Pulsing current causes my heart to malfunction! I need something that is only an on/off switch: on when battery needs charging and off when battery is charged. I know that this is not considered optimal by today's solar standards, but it's what I medically require. I found what I thought was the perfect solution: http://www.wirthco.com/volt-solar-controller-23122-p-1161-l-en.html, but I am starting w/ 2 100watt mono panels into my bank. I was informed that this would not work and w/ this controller I would be able to have only one of the panels. Though this would be enough to run the ignite on my propane fridge and pump the water to my sinks, it will not run my evap. cooler, a must in AZ! Nor will it run simple needed items. I had someone recommend this: http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-60022-Solar-Charge-Controller/dp/B000FIUSA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439096741&sr=8-1&keywords=30+amp+sunforce+charge+regulator. In theory it's good but these sunforce controllers are utter complete garbage if they are that good. They fail every several weeks, but may last 4 months. That would mean a couple weeks w/ no water, no frige as it's elect. ignite-I would loose all the expensive food required for special diet and again no cooler. I would rather just not bother having power at all if I am going to use something that poor quality-some products are too cheaply made to use in these types of applications.
The wirthco company had a 30amp one, but it had a digital display and it may contain technologies I can NOT have, though it's not PWM or MPPT

There has to be some kind of regulator that is a simple switch that can protect my batteries that is 30 amp and not total junk that will be DOA or soon there after. I anyone can point me in the right way. I would appreciate it. Again it will not be helpful to me if you recommend any PWM or MPPT, even if it's supposed to be low transmission , as I can not have.

Also if anyone knows where I could get something built that will do the job, in the S.E. Arizona area that could do the trick too. I have checked around here in NM and there is no one competent or willing [too much effort does not fly here], so must go out of state for this stuff. When i say something built it would be like this: http://www.eiwellspring.org/offgrid/VoltageSwitchChargeControl.htm

Thank you

zoneblue

Prior to modern charge controllers this sort of thing used to exist. It was just basically a 'voltage controlled relay'. You can actually buy these, but youd need to find something with the right (adjustable) voltage range and current rating. It also wouldnt be heck of hard to build something with an arduino and good quality relay.

mike95490

Don't the 2 motors in the evap cooler play heck with your internal electronics ? You want a high tech lifestyle, get yourself an analog meter and a knife switch. When the batteries are low, use the switch to connect the panels to the battery, when full, turn it off.

waynefromnscanada

What of all the thousands of radio frequency radiation beamed down to us all over the world from satellites, some of them very powerful ground penetrating radar beams. What of the Police radar aimed right at your face as you drive down the street, and the high power short wave radio transmitters bouncing their signals all around the world, not to mention the incredibly powerful EMF pulses emitted by lighting storms? And that water pump will also emit EMF pulses as the brushes or electronics rapidly switch current from coil to coil as the rotor turns. And what of the health destroying waves emitted by the computer used to make your post and search for information? It's amazing what beliefs can do to a person.

Photowhit

I would look into an 'un controlled' system. This will require some attention by you!

They use to make panels that they claimed would not require a charge controller, typically a 32 cell panel that unregulated, would not reach very high voltage. but pretty much it shortens the life of the battery bank as the bank doesn't become completely charged, but near enough that if watched you could get reasonable service life, shortened but not trashing the batteries monthly. If you were clever you might even have some 36 cell panels and add them to the mix once a week or month to top off the batteries. This might give longer service life.

BB.

I replied to another post of yours--You may want to look at the MorningStar ProStar or TriStar (PWM) type charge controllers. Some (all?) of them have a "telecom com mode". This mode, as I understand, make the PWM frequency very low (low enough that it does not make audio noise on a telephone/audio system).

All solar charge controllers are PWM (pulse width modulation) systems. Even the "old models" that use relays. It is just the old style with relays turned on/off with seconds (or more) between cycles. Modern electronics (transistors) allow switching in the 100's to 1,000's of Hz (cycles per second). The "slow mode" of the PS or TS systems would (I think) better emulate the old relay style controllers.

Anyway--This all begs the question... What frequency and what power levels are you sensitive too.

Just turning a switch/relay on and off generates radio/electrical waves (listen on an AM radio next to a switch and turn it on/off--you will usually hear clicking).

And I wonder what it is that affects those that feel they are sensitive to modern electronics RF emissions... For sample, diodes (which were suggested in your link) are actually quite "electrically" noisy. Decades ago I designed a very simple networking repeater that used diodes and a 120 VAC transformer to rectify AC into DC for use by the electronics. The rectifier diodes were noisy enough that the unit barely passed FCC conducted noise tests.

As other have said, we are bathed in RF energy. I used to design and test computer equipment. I would set a spectrum analyser up with a 30 MHz to 1 GHz range and a set of antenna (generally needed at least two types of antenna to cover the RF band). In a parking lot in Silicon Valley (100's of feet from any building, used to have corn fields in the next door) with the antenna about 10 feet from the computer--The background RF energy was high enough that it would swamp any emissions from the computer. Except those frequencies that were going to "fail" (the electrical noise floor was about the same as the FCC Class A specs.).

If we wanted to actually test for the FCC, we had to drive several hundred miles out into the country side--Usually a valley with hardly any body around (a few farms, etc.). And even then, we still had strong signals from the occasional mountain top transmitters, local repeaters,etc.

I have asked before--And I really never got an answer to what frequency range/power levels people are sensitive to. Many folks use a hand held detector that is only sensitive to power line frequencies (50/60 Hz). While I would not like to live under high tension electrical lines--From a human body point of view, there is usually very little effect from low frequency RFI. We even had an office that backup against the main transformer for the office complex. It was enough to cause the old CRT type computer monitor to "swim" because it coupled to the desk size transformer behind the wall... But you get 10 feet away, the monitors where fine.

But people complain about, for example, Smart Meters--Which broad cast at relatively low power levels at ~1 GHz or above (near microwave oven frequencies)... A very different frequency range.

Are smart meters and WIFI as dangerous as Infra Red and Ultra Violet radiation from the sun? Obviously we can overheat (and even start fires) from IR and get very bad skin burns or even cancer from UV exposure--But at lower levels these electromagnetic emissions are healthy and needed for life.

-Bill

SolarPowered

The frequency that solar panels convert light to electricity emit dirty EMF, there is no way around it.

Solar panels emit EMF at roughly the same frequency of a 40watt~120watt florescent.

Standard PWM's are just limiting the incoming voltage for regulation to the bank, the EMF DC frequency starts from the panels.

SolarPowered

The largest concern for EMF transmission comes from sine wave inverters, and there is definitely no way around that problem.

Apples

I am extremely electrosensitive!!! After several small strokes, I am having to move rural: no wifi, no cell towers, no smart meters. This means I must have a low emf solar system for my power or be in the dark.

Chuck McGill used liquid-fuel-powered mantle lanterns.

JDark

Started out w/ greatly compromised health to begin with. Wifi, smart meters, cordless phones and anything else wireless cause me serious problems. I did not do well w/ a digital TV antenna, dimmers, or clock radios either. Powerlines as well. The computer bothers me when I use it a lot, but not to the degree of RF wireless devices. Anything that pulses is an issue.

I will be towing the trailer very rural, where there will be NO readings on my RF meter.

I was reading last night in a book about a system that had a sealed shallow cell battery and No controller. Battery could only be discharged 30% This was a design for a lighted marine itmem. Not good for home application

Had it mentioned again my best option is just to go w/ the one 100w panel and use a very high AH battery. Was unable to find out what AH they are talking. I would think if too high an AH battery, the 100 watt panel could not charge it fully. If that is not the case, there is a 100 AH battery there now and I was just going to add another of the same for use w/ the 200 watt system and then change the bank to something more substantial as soon as I can afford.

Also what about having 2 banks. One 100 watts hooked to one and 100 watts hooked to another. and a 10 amp wirthco controller on each. I could divide the loads in 2, maybe put the cooler [which I will not run more than I have to-it is S. Arizona] and a couple led lights on one and the rest on the other?

Will not be having any inverter 12v DC only system.

Panels have emf, hence they are going AWAY from the house!

Would like to build something as mentioned above. There is no one in my state NM that can do it or anything else for that matter. The trailer is in AZ having things done for that very reason. So I would have to find someone over there, but not sure how to go about doing it. for example "build something with an arduino and good quality relay", as zoneblue mentions above or something of the like.
How would I go about finding someone to build something like this. What type of business should I call for starters? Who would do this kind of work?

inetdog

SolarPowered wrote: »

The frequency that solar panels convert light to electricity emit dirty EMF, there is no way around it.

I find that very hard to believe unless you are including the CC or GTI in the measurement.
Any diode under load produces some very low amplitude thermal and quantum noise, but not as part of the photovoltaic conversion process.

inetdog

SolarPowered wrote: »

The largest concern for EMF transmission comes from sine wave inverters, and there is definitely no way around that problem.

A Modified Square Wave inverter would be even worse.
And there is a way around it, called shielding and filtering.

JDark

I found this when I googled the company that was mentioned in the eiwellspring link I put in this post: http://www.solarconverters.com/index.php/products/92-voltage-controlled-switch/126-vcs-1ah-or-vcs-1al Then all I would need would be the other items. Ie: diode and mounting box. I would think this would do the job and installer could put it together?

Also while looking for outlets that sell the above I found this by accident. http://www.kansaswindpower.net/charge_controls.htm The "Flexwave" about 2/3 way down the page just after the Xantrex. Pricy there. Don't have here but can shop around. Not sure if it's as claimed, I will call the mfg to make sure.

Wouldn't that do the job?

Johann

Why not put an electrical/electronic filter on the output/battery side of the charge controller and you can use the charge controller as is. Look at this video, instead using it on a inverter you just hook it up on the output/ battery terminals on the charge controller. This way you could use the charge controller as intended.
You could also put the charge controller and battery in a metal box to shield from emitting EMF and use metal conduit to run your wires in to lessen the EMF.

JDark

Opps I goofed I meant "[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica]Flexcharge" not flex wave.[/FONT]

Wouldn't it be hard to use metal conduit, if the system is portable.
If the Flexcharge is not workable then, the switch on the eiwellspring site has to be.?
I am still going to call Flexcharge, but not going to be open til Mon

BB.

It is a "low tech" controller (no float stage)--Probably not the best choice if you deep cycle your battery bank daily... Modern controllers have removed the mechanical relay and replaced it with transistors. But if you think this is the best for you, why not give it a try.

Regarding battery bank and solar array sizing--Really need to understand how many Watt*Hours or Amp*Hours (at 12 volts) per day you plan on using. 200 Watts of solar panels is not a lot of power... Guessing at 4 hours of sun per day (for at least 9 months of the year).:

• 100 watt panel / 17.5 volts Vmp = 5.71 amps Imp
• 2 * 100 Watt panels * 0.52 panel+controller derating * 4 hours of sun per day = ~416 Watt*Hours of 120 VAC power per day
• 2 panels * 5.71 amps Imp * 4 hours of sun per day = 45.7 Amp*Hours per day in nominal sun @ 12 VDC
• 2 * 5.71 amps Ipm * 1/0.10 rate of charge = ~114 AH @ 12 volt battery bank nominal ("balanced" at 10% rate of charge for full time off grid)

-Bill

PNjunction

We have a catch-22 here - nevermind solar.

What are you going to do when you need to visit a medical office or have a paramedic unit show up at your remote place full of "dirty" electricity alluded to in that article?

Their presence will trigger the problem you are trying to avoid! And of course any diagnosis is now contaminated with dirty electricity.

I know you can't be convinced of it now, but it saddens me to see you surrounding yourself in ever-closing middle-age prison.

mike95490

SolarPowered wrote: »

The frequency that solar panels convert light to electricity emit dirty EMF, there is no way around it.

Solar panels emit EMF at roughly the same frequency of a 40watt~120watt florescent.

Standard PWM's are just limiting the incoming voltage for regulation to the bank, the EMF DC frequency starts from the panels.

Actually. a solar panel produces very pure DC in sunlight.
If you bring it indoors and illuminate it with florescent light, it will produce DC with a 120hz ripple.
If you use a PWM controller and have it chop up the DC from the panels, it's possible the panels and wires will work as an antenna for the chopper frequency.
But you have apparently made up your own rules of physics to fit your own beliefs.

mike95490

SolarPowered wrote: »

The largest concern for EMF transmission comes from sine wave inverters, and there is definitely no way around that problem.

Likely because the cheap meters are designed to respond to 60 hz.... The purer the sine wave, the less emission. A photograph of a mod-square wave inverter would outright kill you !

waynefromnscanada

Actually DC powered florescent lamps as well as virtually all AC powered compact florescent lights and modern traditional long tube florescent lights have built in inverters to provide the high voltage needed to start electrical arc within the lamp, and these inverters often operate in the 20khz and much higher range, emitting so much E "radiation" that they will make an AM radio positively HOWL and will completely wipe out normal radio reception if the radio is too close to the light fixture. And many LED "light bulbs" also have internal electronics that can and do emit rather strong radiation from the "dirty electricity" created and used within the light. I have one LED "bulb" where I park my car, and when I drive under it, it will completely wipe out the FM radio in the car. Imagine the filth that thing is emitting! And some folk worry about "smart meters". The human mind is capable of amazing things.

dropkick

The Morningstar MPPT in one of our trailers wipes out the FM radio (we gladly accept the incoming radiation of XM satellite into both trailers tho!). The Morningstar SunSaver PWM in the other trailer does nothing. Their TriStar is supposed to be good and quiet too. However there are so many other sources of "evil", I don't know how you're doing to get away from anything. A computer and a TV?? Those are going to put out far more of 'whatever' than a lowly charge controller at the other side of the room! And the inverter. And the CF or LED light bulbs. And what's feeding the computer? WiFi? Cellular? The TV? DVD player? Netflix? About the only thing you can run is a 12VDC incadescent light bulb straight off the panel (assuming it will take the voltage!). There's still an electric field on the DC wires. Welcome to the Universe. You're designed to live here.

PNjunction

dropkick wrote: »

A computer and a TV??

EXCELLENT point - why is the op making a post about sensitivity to dirty-electricity in front of a computer that emanates dirty-electricity in the first place? It can't be a smartphone / tablet either because that implies being close enough to a tower to make a connection, which is also verboten.

Jdark - this isn't trying to make fun of you, but perhaps open your mind to the fact that you may be an unwilling target of those trying to convince you to buy into their agenda - financially or politically.

waynefromnscanada

PNjunction wrote: »

Jdark - this isn't trying to make fun of you, but perhaps open your mind to the fact that you may be an unwilling target of those trying to convince you to buy into their agenda - financially or politically.

EXACTLY! And putting "believers" in a terrible state of constant fear over these hoaxes, scams and scare stories being spread across the internet!

SolarPowered

mike95490 wrote: »

Actually. a solar panel produces very pure DC in sunlight.
If you bring it indoors and illuminate it with florescent light, it will produce DC with a 120hz ripple.
If you use a PWM controller and have it chop up the DC from the panels, it's possible the panels and wires will work as an antenna for the chopper frequency.

O.K keep telling yourself that to feel comfortable. PV does produce a low level EMF under load.

That low level grows as the expansion size of the system becomes larger, and the end result is what is produced and emitted at the point of CC. Then the frequency is chopped and the EMF increases via torroids and capacitors.

If you disconnect the panels from the load source EMF increases. We are talking about the exchange of Ultra Violet Radition spectrum and converting to electricity. Have you ever disconnected your panels from load, and let them sit in the sun? You can literally cook your breakfast lunch and dinner on your PV panels.

mike95490 wrote: »

Likely because the cheap meters are designed to respond to 60 hz.... The purer the sine wave, the less emission. A photograph of a mod-square wave inverter would outright kill you !

Yeah try explaining that to the Utility companies powering 20megawatts on pure sine wave induction motors. Induction motors deliver the purest of sine wave yet emit some of the highest EMF.

Sine wave does produce enough EMF that micro inverter manufacturers use that EMF as use for power line communications to monitor systems.


Almost EVERY electronic device on the planet emits EMF. Don't care what the nay sayers say. I'm surrounded by EMF right now typing away on my LED touch screen computer monitor.

waynefromnscanada

And with that post, I shake my head and walk away.

SolarPowered

PV panel DC string according to state of Oregons research, produces more Milligauss than the inverter they are using for that site.

The measurements are recorded with 3feet of the array.

It's not enough EMF to distort FM/AM UHF/VHF frequency bands. But it can wipe out Bluetooth/ WiFi within a range of 10feet.

http://www.oregon.gov/odot/hwy/oipp/docs/emfconcerns.pdf

JDark

I have ordered this switch. The same one that was in the article I first mentioned. http://www.solarconverters.com/index.php/products/92-voltage-controlled-switch/126-vcs-1ah-or-vcs-1al. I have ordered the blocking diode and heat fins and capacitor mentioned in the article from an electronics supplier. Our host carries the switch, but not the diode. Seems to be the cleanest option to do what I need and no PWM or MPPT.

I may very well want to turn it up a notch to equalize a couple hours every few months, though. Think this will do it.

JDark

I can not be around any wifi or wireless and NO towers. That is why this system is being built for a trailer to move remotely in. I use DSL and NO wireless. I do feel better when I have reduced screen time. I am going to sell the TV. I keep the computer at the distance and after I am done putting all this together to be off grid, I will have it on much less. We were made to live on earth w/ many kinds of frequencies, but much of what is being used today is not natural and we were not made to live with. I am electrosensitive and am choosing to have a few basic electronics in my home. Those need to be powered. Beyond that I neither need or want all the rest. I am fine w/ my old 70s landline and I do not have to put up w/ it dropping calls.

Solar does put out some EMF, and so does the power company. My goal here is to do it close to low EMF as I can. Something closer to what the best of the power company had to provide back in the 60s, 70s or 80s.

Oh I am not going to miss paying the power company every month either.

Photowhit

I don't know about the rest, just trying to learn and understand...

...but

JDark wrote: »

Oh I am not going to miss paying the power company every month either.

Off grid solar will be more expensive the your local utility! I don't think anyone has done it cheaper than I have to this point, so I'm confident on this, unless you have to run new lines or live in a very high cost area, think 30+ cents a Kwh.

mike95490

from your article:

Under controlled testingconditions, this parallel string configuration could theoretically generate
776 amperes of direct current and produce a static magnetic field of
approximately1,697 milligaussat a distance of three feet from the
largest solararray
This is less than one twentieth of one percent (<.05%) of the ICNIRP's exposure guidelines for static magnetic
fields.
Moreover, at a distance of ten feet, the field strength
would fall to approximately 509 milligauss and would
be largely indistinguishable from the Earth&#146;s natural static magnetic field of approximately 500 milligauss.


unless you are sleeping on the roof, in the daytime, with the panels, you will be OK. A 400watt PV array, at 12V produces about 33A. This is much less than the test system of several hundred volts @ 776 amps. At 10', a homeowner system would not be measurable, as it's going to be way less than the earth's natural field.

Same with the inverter or charge controller. Distance is your friend