Best Of
Re: 100 watts to 600 watts within a minute same sun
I did not know that, I bought mine at a frea market for $25 so I got my money's worth, The only manufacturers that I buy now is MidNite Solar in Arlington Washington, USA, I bought a used MagnaSine MS4024AE to tide me over until MidNite releases the new MidNite Rosie the Inverter.
Disclaimer....I am a retired electrical engineer and hate sloppy engineering....also a MidNite beta tester, so maybe I'm a bit biased
Re: Battery Monitor and/or Multiple temperature sensors
There's nothing to get over on my behalf, they are merely words, I'm not sensitive personally, but others may and have been offended by such comments. Perhaps your statements are misconstrued as personal attacks even though the intention was not, language is very articulate, a misplaced comma can change the whole meaning of a sentence.Dave Angelini said:Get over it, just because I say something in my way, I have just as much right to that as you have to be sensitive. Report me to Billmcgivor said:Dave strikes again with yet another vieled condescending comment, a common trait it seemsDave Angelini said:"when in doubt read the manual" It is in there to use only one sensor for a reason. If you think you are more in the know than the people who designed the system do it.
There has to be some sanity here, right?
You are doing the right thing Dicky!
The purpose of a discussion is to discuss, the manual was consulted, if it had said use one and only one remote temperature sensor, then that would be blatantly clear, perhaps my manual is different from others, this is what my manual states.
There are also problems over the 15 years of XW and hundreds of installations I have seen that are caused by multiple sensors.
Familiarization with a given product gives one an advantage, however complacency of said knowledge can often lead to closed mindedness. We are all here to learn from one another, manuals can often be fallacious, the interpretation of what is stated can often be interpreted differently, which opens the dialog of discussion. Schneider manuals are particularly vague in some areas, lacking definitive guidelines, case in point, if one, and only one, remote temperature sensor is required to prevent complications as you claim, why not say so.
This forum is, in my opinion, one of the most civil in cyber world, it's a pleasure to interact with members who may have a diminutive understanding of electrical theroy. Helping is one of the greatest gifts one can offer, especially for free, without intention to receive monetary gain in exchange for knowledge. Some may feel humiliation if not treated the way they expect, we're all strangers to on another after all, so never respond in prejudice, is the implication of what I'm attempting to convey.
mcgivor
1
Re: Split Phase vs Single Phase confusion
When I was designing large computer systems in another life--I looked around and found that there were few actual "hard limits" for "acceptable" utility voltage... And acceptable nominal line voltage has changed over time (generally increasing).
For example, when I was a kid, 110 VAC (220 VAC) was the nominal voltage... Slowly increased to 117 VAC (234) and now in the 120-125 nominal range. (Europe seemed to move from 220 to 230 VAC 50 Hz).
Now, I would call 105-127 VAC (210 to 254 VAC) to be, sort of, US/North American standard for single phase. And ~132/264 VAC to be the actual acceptable maximum (when you call the power company and complain, most GT inverters shutdown around 260-264 VAC). Years past, typically only saw ~264 VAC at more remote sites in Australia (end of utility distribution has "iffy" regulation almost anywhere).
Some places in Japan are ~100 VAC nominal...
Throw in that (for example) the USA has two major 3 phase standards... Delta and Wye connected transformers--Which give 120/208 VAC nominal (Wye) and 120/240 VAC (Delta)...
You see that many "appliances" (motors, ec.) are designed for world wide sales, so you may see name plate ratings that have different "acceptable" input voltage ranges.
When the major loads were filament lighting and refrigerators (induction motor compressors)--Voltage was a big issue between damaged refrigerator motors (below 100 VAC brownouts) to 105-132 VAC input for lights (dim/yellow light at 105 volts, bright white and short life at 132 VAC).
For us, our utilty (probably most utilities?) have learned to cut power rather than brownout (save motors from stalling/overheating). And with electronic power supplies for computers/electronics/LED lighting/ballasts for fluorescent lamps, etc.), many devices have very wide acceptable voltage ranges (i.e., dual voltage range 100-125/200-250 VAC) or wide range supplies (100-260 VAC for PFC power factor corrected power supplies/AC input) and actual specific line voltage is not as important (you can take your computer/cell phone charger to almost anywhere in the world these days).
Your Inverter system is programmable so you can decide what is acceptable for your needs... For example you may set AC1 (utilty power) to 110-126 VAC / 220-252 VAC at 60 Hz +/- 1 Hz and set AC2 to 105-130 VAC / 210-260 VAC 60 Hz +/- 10 Hz for a mechanically regulated (voltage/speed) genset (so that you can get AC power and Charging under any "useful" genset conditions.
My house typically runs ~122/244 to 124/248 VAC (near San Francisco CA) nominal (not that I have logged the voltage over time).
-Bill
For example, when I was a kid, 110 VAC (220 VAC) was the nominal voltage... Slowly increased to 117 VAC (234) and now in the 120-125 nominal range. (Europe seemed to move from 220 to 230 VAC 50 Hz).
Now, I would call 105-127 VAC (210 to 254 VAC) to be, sort of, US/North American standard for single phase. And ~132/264 VAC to be the actual acceptable maximum (when you call the power company and complain, most GT inverters shutdown around 260-264 VAC). Years past, typically only saw ~264 VAC at more remote sites in Australia (end of utility distribution has "iffy" regulation almost anywhere).
Some places in Japan are ~100 VAC nominal...
Throw in that (for example) the USA has two major 3 phase standards... Delta and Wye connected transformers--Which give 120/208 VAC nominal (Wye) and 120/240 VAC (Delta)...
You see that many "appliances" (motors, ec.) are designed for world wide sales, so you may see name plate ratings that have different "acceptable" input voltage ranges.
When the major loads were filament lighting and refrigerators (induction motor compressors)--Voltage was a big issue between damaged refrigerator motors (below 100 VAC brownouts) to 105-132 VAC input for lights (dim/yellow light at 105 volts, bright white and short life at 132 VAC).
For us, our utilty (probably most utilities?) have learned to cut power rather than brownout (save motors from stalling/overheating). And with electronic power supplies for computers/electronics/LED lighting/ballasts for fluorescent lamps, etc.), many devices have very wide acceptable voltage ranges (i.e., dual voltage range 100-125/200-250 VAC) or wide range supplies (100-260 VAC for PFC power factor corrected power supplies/AC input) and actual specific line voltage is not as important (you can take your computer/cell phone charger to almost anywhere in the world these days).
Your Inverter system is programmable so you can decide what is acceptable for your needs... For example you may set AC1 (utilty power) to 110-126 VAC / 220-252 VAC at 60 Hz +/- 1 Hz and set AC2 to 105-130 VAC / 210-260 VAC 60 Hz +/- 10 Hz for a mechanically regulated (voltage/speed) genset (so that you can get AC power and Charging under any "useful" genset conditions.
My house typically runs ~122/244 to 124/248 VAC (near San Francisco CA) nominal (not that I have logged the voltage over time).
-Bill
BB.
1
Re: Split Phase vs Single Phase confusion
I don't know Schneider stuff, but my guess is the first screen shows the point-in-time actual line to line voltage (240v +/-), and the second shows a line to neutral range (120v +/-) over time.
Estragon
1
Re: Split Phase vs Single Phase confusion
You answered your own question, if you ran a 240V circuit and have other 120V loads the service is a single phase 240/120V split, which is typical for a north American domestic installation.DickyDck said:Sure can, but not tonight, I've been out in the sun all day pouring a concrete slab for my patio, and I'm dead beat. tomorrow morning I can take off the cover and take a picture. If I recall though there were only 2, I was in there earlier this year running a 240 circuit for my welder.BB. said:120 VAC service--You should only have two wires coming into the home from the utility.
120/240 VAC service, you should have 3 wires coming into the home.
Can you post a picture of your main panel (fuses or breakers)?
-Bill
mcgivor
1
Re: Trump Tariffs Hurt American Workers
t00ls said:"
bob said that capacitors were on the tariff list ...so they had to raise the cost of their product to profit.....but what he doesnt realize is that more people can now afford a higher price because the job shift from overseas to avoid tariffs in manufacturing
"
We can but hope... But Americans can still buy Chinese charge controllers at NO extra tariff cost as it is now. That is NOT good or fair. Do you agree with that ? I hear from our Chinese connection that this is because of lobbyists.
boB
1
Re: make sky blue chinese mppt cc
@mountainman
I threw out my EPSolar Tracers for the same reason, equal paneling with correct voltages in a test of 3 EP Solar Tracers verses 3 Trace C-40 PWM The old trace units preformed much better. The EPTracers could not be set up to the correct voltage to properly top off my batteries. They would slowly sink in PV input volts until reset or maybe 20-30 minutes later would do a full sweep and come up to a decent input voltage. I bought a Classic.....problems gone
Re: Recovering fork lift battery
Estragon,
the battery has never been at this low of state of charge before, the forklift slows down by computer control when it gets low. It lets you know that it needs attention. Caterpilar pays attention to details like that. I started with only the shop charger, an automated 2 amp, 10 amp , 40 amp boost, 200 amp cranking charger, it took a long time to get it out of the 2.2 amp desulfate mode., I had to add as much non regulated current to get the big charger to output 40 amps, unfortunately it times out after some unknown hours because it's a car charger, I have no idea how many amp hours I have put in. It looks better every time I look. I'll probably have the 36 volt charger by Tuesday, it's totally manual with only a timer to control charging, no smarts. What concerns me the most is unbalancing the cells. Charging them 6 at a time.
Dave,
Im retired, don't need a lot of income, everything is paid off and I like to tinker, this customer has been mine exclusively for 20 years and I am paid well there, with lots of extra privileges. I was just gifted a 20 foot shipping containers from them. They make it worth my while to be persistent . They are a used shipping container dealer, repurposing them and building anything you want out of them. Offices, shops, solar stations, etc., just built a solar shed for an Dual Outback Radian system with huge AGM battery set as specified by a local contractor, it's at Felton in the Santa Cruz Mountains, built to code, it had double doors in the side with panic hardware as specified by building dept, fully insulated with finished walls inside, climate controlled, didn't ask the price, it was built to specs from a 20 foot hi cube shipping container to house huge solar system way off the grid. My own solar system is on/in a 40 foot hi cube shipping container that also is my main tinker shop bought from them for $1200, it's worth a quick 5400 here as a bare container.
My main battery set are Rolls Surette S-530 L-16's salvaged on the way to recyclers. They were at 0.05 volts for the set. They now test as new. Shipped out the door at Rolls June 26, 2005, verified by Steve Higging at Rolls. That recovery took 30 days of slow tickling to get them to 24 volts, been using them for 7 years now. Bought the whole failed solar system for $800 with a Trace SW4024, 26 Sharp NE-170 panels as new,and Trace C-40 and C-60 controllers with burnt FET's, and other misselany, all the panels are in use and the SW was sold in a moment of weakness for $1950...
the battery has never been at this low of state of charge before, the forklift slows down by computer control when it gets low. It lets you know that it needs attention. Caterpilar pays attention to details like that. I started with only the shop charger, an automated 2 amp, 10 amp , 40 amp boost, 200 amp cranking charger, it took a long time to get it out of the 2.2 amp desulfate mode., I had to add as much non regulated current to get the big charger to output 40 amps, unfortunately it times out after some unknown hours because it's a car charger, I have no idea how many amp hours I have put in. It looks better every time I look. I'll probably have the 36 volt charger by Tuesday, it's totally manual with only a timer to control charging, no smarts. What concerns me the most is unbalancing the cells. Charging them 6 at a time.
Dave,
Im retired, don't need a lot of income, everything is paid off and I like to tinker, this customer has been mine exclusively for 20 years and I am paid well there, with lots of extra privileges. I was just gifted a 20 foot shipping containers from them. They make it worth my while to be persistent . They are a used shipping container dealer, repurposing them and building anything you want out of them. Offices, shops, solar stations, etc., just built a solar shed for an Dual Outback Radian system with huge AGM battery set as specified by a local contractor, it's at Felton in the Santa Cruz Mountains, built to code, it had double doors in the side with panic hardware as specified by building dept, fully insulated with finished walls inside, climate controlled, didn't ask the price, it was built to specs from a 20 foot hi cube shipping container to house huge solar system way off the grid. My own solar system is on/in a 40 foot hi cube shipping container that also is my main tinker shop bought from them for $1200, it's worth a quick 5400 here as a bare container.
My main battery set are Rolls Surette S-530 L-16's salvaged on the way to recyclers. They were at 0.05 volts for the set. They now test as new. Shipped out the door at Rolls June 26, 2005, verified by Steve Higging at Rolls. That recovery took 30 days of slow tickling to get them to 24 volts, been using them for 7 years now. Bought the whole failed solar system for $800 with a Trace SW4024, 26 Sharp NE-170 panels as new,and Trace C-40 and C-60 controllers with burnt FET's, and other misselany, all the panels are in use and the SW was sold in a moment of weakness for $1950...
Re: Learning curve
I think you're doing it right. Assuming adequate EQ voltage, when your weakest cell(s) stop rising, that's about as good as it gets. No point stressing the stronger cells if you aren't improving the weak ones
Estragon
1
Re: Split Phase vs Single Phase confusion
They did not set-up anything except wire AC1, AC2, and Gen wiring. That compartment is protected. The section where Schneider would wire for 3 phase is to be opened and wired by Schneider or a qualified technician.DickyDck said:I just wanted to see how they have it setup. Since I am seeing the voltages in one place in the 120v range but in another in the 240v range, and there is a question about how qualified the installers are/were. The electric cooperatives told me my house is single phase coming in, but I don’t know if that makes any difference in the a/c settings I showed up earlier.
Saying this nicely, you are overthinking this!
