Using PU truck to charge batteries.

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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #32
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    the manual would be nice to view. 14.5v is high for my sunxtender, but i would suppose that i could introduce a voltage drop to get it more inline with it.
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  • packdaddy
    packdaddy Solar Expert Posts: 27 ✭
    #33
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    http://s3.amazonaws.com/pdf.hammerwall.com/manuals/L0805603.pdf?AWSAccessKeyId=074VWHYYTBPY0XZAK482&Expires=1266892084&Signature=Phav4WGN%2BgVuNgKJQqnemQPlfEc%3D

    Try this link to look at the Manual.
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  • Kamala
    Kamala Solar Expert Posts: 452 ✭✭
    #34
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    Bad link. Just shows XML code.
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  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #35
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    Unless your truck has a 150A alternator, I would not bother. 60A alternators, produce 60A when the engine is at 3,000 RPM. At idle, it's about 5 amps. The big alternators will produce s20A or so at idle. Use jumper cables, and connect to the ALTERNATOR stud, if you can get to it. That will have a better connection, than the battery cable, and any "fuseable links" in the cable. Engine connections, start up, and then connect to the low batteries. Half hour should pump some life into them, disconnect and let your truck idle a few more minutes to top off the internal battery, in case it was pulled pretty low.
    Leave the hood open for better cooling, the little fans in the alternators are not very good - feed it the coolest air you have!
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

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  • packdaddy
    packdaddy Solar Expert Posts: 27 ✭
    #36
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    I couldn't get find another link.
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  • myocardia
    myocardia Solar Expert Posts: 118 ✭✭✭
    #37
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    packdaddy, what you need to buy is called a battery isolator. All RV supply places sell them, and so do some automotive supply stores. I bought mine @ Pep Boy's. They are a small box and you send the output from your alternator directly to it.

    It gives all of the amperage to your primary (starting) battery that it needs, keeping it completely charged. Anytime that the primary battery is completely charged, your alternator's left over power goes to the secondary battery. It keeps both batteries completely separated electrically, but allows one alternator to charge two batteries.

    Having one would allow you to drive down the highway, putting 50-75A into the secondary battery. They're pretty cheap (I think I paid $30-35 for mine), but they aren't extremely easy to install. You need to be able to cut wires, strip wires, splice wires, crimp on connectors, etc. Nearly all car audio shops sell and install them, if you don't have the tools or the know how to install one yourself.
    DoD= depth of discharge= amount removed from that battery   SoC= state of charge= amount remaining in that battery
    So, 0% DoD= 100% SoC, 25% DoD= 75% SoC, 50% DoD= 50% SoC, 75% DoD= 25% SoC, 100% DoD= 0% SoC
    A/C= air conditioning AC= alternating current (what comes from the outlets in your home) DC= direct current (what batteries & solar panels use)
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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #38
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    Re: Using PU truck to charge batteries.

    isolators aren't all of what you think they are. first of all it is made up of diodes so that reversal of the current does not happen, which is all well and good except that this introduces a voltage drop of around 1/2v or so. doesn't sound like much of a big deal except that even the alternator without the isolator will not fully charge the battery as many batteries need over 14.4v to fully charge and alternators don't usually go that high. i think gm likes 14.1v, but add to that the fact that you need to subtract another 1/2v from that and that battery is soon to be sulfated for sure.
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