Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

SystemSystem Posts: 2,511 admin
I live near Tampa, Florida and am a quadriplegic = I need an installer & a battery back-up. (Paralyzed from mid-chest down.):blush:

Company A: Sunpower panels, 22 panels, model 225 watt, total of 4.95kw, plus hot water tankless, and 5 circuit battery backup and solar invertor.

Company B: SolarWorld panels, 30 solarworld 175 watt PV, Sunny Boy inverter, battery system two SI4248U 6banks of 4 batteries, PT50 Solar Water heating.

I can NOT help in any manner with an install.

Any recommendations, suggestions, comments will GLADLY be appreciated.

BTW, roof if extremely free East, west, and South. Florida has a lot of incentives.

Lastly, I do need the battery system; I don't perspire & if in really hot weather too long you'd visit me in the hospital.

Comments

  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 29,717 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Stan,

    What exactly are you looking for--it sounds like you need power 24x7 for a reasonably safe life. So, you are looking for backup power--and, you would like it to be "cost effective"--i.e., don't want to waste money.

    So, knowing how much power you need (by season because of A/C requirements?), and what you are trying to protect against (2-4 weeks worst case without power from a hurricane?). And any special issues with your location (trees, neighbor structures and such).

    Solar Grid Tie power is not cheap (~$0.20-$0.30 per kWhrs over 25 year life), and Off Grid solar power and emergency power is even much more expensive ($1.00 per kWhr or more). It is very difficult to compete with utility power (reliability or price). And towards that realization, that means that you need to ensure that you have done virtually everything you can to conserve power (insulation, double pane windows, CFL lighting, fans, energy star appliances, possibly zones for high power items--perhaps one bedroom in your case with "emergency" powered A/C, etc.). If you don't consume a watt, then you don't need to collect/store/invert/generate the watt in the first place--so your power system costs are much less.

    So, since you need cost effective emergency power and want to qualify for the Grid Tied rebates--your system will need:

    • Solar panels to support your average load (need utility bill, month by month).
    • Batteries for three day of off-grid power reserves (really 2x so you don't discharge batteries below 50%).
    • Hybrid Grid Tie/Off-Grid capable inverters which are able to support your power demands (A/C, lighting, cooking, etc.).
    • Good quality charge controller with a remote battery temperature sensor (you need to know the battery temperature for proper charging).

    I don't know too much about the two systems you listed (probably need model numbers too)--but you can look at the Xantrex website for a good explanation of how this all plays together (look their "XW" system).

    And, you will probably need a backup generator of some sort too--Depending on if you need A/C or other electrical equipment and have over three days of clouds that reduce your solar panel output.

    In general, the solar Grid Tie system is pretty much maintenance free--however, when you add batteries, the amount of service (and danger.

    There are flooded (or wet) cell batteries (just like you typical car battery). They are reasonably rugged and forgiving. However, they probably require almost monthly servicing--checking electrolyte levels, cleaning the tops and cable ends to prevent corrosion and such.

    AGM batteries, are sealed, much less maintenance (no water, little cleaning required), but they probably cost 2x as much.

    Read the Battery FAQ for some more information (in fact, look around Wind-Sun's web store--they have a bunch FAQ's scattered around the various categories).'

    Lastly, you need something to watch the state of charge of your battery bank--under or over charge them--and you will kill them in months (or less). So--I would highly push a battery monitor (look at the XBM for a good model--there are some new Xantrex Battery Monitors just coming out that will replace the XBM and other current models--you can check the Xantrex website for more information). Short of using a Hydrometer for a flooded cell battery--there is no good way of knowing the charge of your battery bank while under load (or charging). And with AGM batteries--because they are sealed, you cannot even use a hydrometer to check charge.

    If your power is reliable, and not too expensive--and given that the current Florida rebates may currently be exhausted for now--you might just look at a good emergency generator for now. They are expensive to run (especially with the increase in fuel prices)--but much less costly to install if power failures are a rare event where you live...

    Good Luck,
    -Bill

    PS: I should add that solar hot water is probably your best investment (for return on your money). However, there is a fair amount of maintenance associated with this system (pumps, leaks, air locks, etc.). You will need to trust your solar technician / plumber to do a proper install and not ruin you with maintenance costs.
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • System2System2 Posts: 6,290 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor
    BB. wrote: »
    Stan,

    What exactly are you looking for--it sounds like you need power 24x7 for a reasonably safe life. So, you are looking for backup power--and, you would like it to be "cost effective"--i.e., don't want to waste money.

    So, knowing how much power you need (by season because of A/C requirements?), and what you are trying to protect against (2-4 weeks worst case without power from a hurricane?). And any special issues with your location (trees, neighbor structures and such).

    Solar Grid Tie power is not cheap (~$0.20-$0.30 per kWhrs over 25 year life), and Off Grid solar power and emergency power is even much more expensive ($1.00 per kWhr or more). It is very difficult to compete with utility power (reliability or price). And towards that realization, that means that you need to ensure that you have done virtually everything you can to conserve power (insulation, double pane windows, CFL lighting, fans, energy star appliances, possibly zones for high power items--perhaps one bedroom in your case with "emergency" powered A/C, etc.). If you don't consume a watt, then you don't need to collect/store/invert/generate the watt in the first place--so your power system costs are much less.

    So, since you need cost effective emergency power and want to qualify for the Grid Tied rebates--your system will need:

    • Solar panels to support your average load (need utility bill, month by month).
    • Batteries for three day of off-grid power reserves (really 2x so you don't discharge batteries below 50%).
    • Hybrid Grid Tie/Off-Grid capable inverters which are able to support your power demands (A/C, lighting, cooking, etc.).
    • Good quality charge controller with a remote battery temperature sensor (you need to know the battery temperature for proper charging).

    I don't know too much about the two systems you listed (probably need model numbers too)--but you can look at the Xantrex website for a good explanation of how this all plays together (look their "XW" system).

    And, you will probably need a backup generator of some sort too--Depending on if you need A/C or other electrical equipment and have over three days of clouds that reduce your solar panel output.

    In general, the solar Grid Tie system is pretty much maintenance free--however, when you add batteries, the amount of service (and danger.

    There are flooded (or wet) cell batteries (just like you typical car battery). They are reasonably rugged and forgiving. However, they probably require almost monthly servicing--checking electrolyte levels, cleaning the tops and cable ends to prevent corrosion and such.

    AGM batteries, are sealed, much less maintenance (no water, little cleaning required), but they probably cost 2x as much.

    Read the Battery FAQ for some more information (in fact, look around Wind-Sun's web store--they have a bunch FAQ's scattered around the various categories).'

    Lastly, you need something to watch the state of charge of your battery bank--under or over charge them--and you will kill them in months (or less). So--I would highly push a battery monitor (look at the XBM for a good model--there are some new Xantrex Battery Monitors just coming out that will replace the XBM and other current models--you can check the Xantrex website for more information). Short of using a Hydrometer for a flooded cell battery--there is no good way of knowing the charge of your battery bank while under load (or charging). And with AGM batteries--because they are sealed, you cannot even use a hydrometer to check charge.

    If your power is reliable, and not too expensive--and given that the current Florida rebates may currently be exhausted for now--you might just look at a good emergency generator for now. They are expensive to run (especially with the increase in fuel prices)--but much less costly to install if power failures are a rare event where you live...

    Good Luck,
    -Bill

    PS: I should add that solar hot water is probably your best investment (for return on your money). However, there is a fair amount of maintenance associated with this system (pumps, leaks, air locks, etc.). You will need to trust your solar technician / plumber to do a proper install and not ruin you with maintenance costs.
    Yes, backup power, 24x7 for 2-3 days. If longer I can go to a special shelter if a storm hits us. One has not hit me since I moved here from Buffalo in 1977!
    I have 1 room that, according to both companies, can be battery powered 3-4 days w/extremely high efficient Mitsubishi slim tiny split AC and other necessities. My wheelchair can go 180, flat, so I can sleep in it. Have done and it's pretty good.
    New roof & new siding with massive insulation. (I'm half a mile from the emergency shelter.) DOUBLE-pane windows I have (Buffalo experience!)

    Looked at generators w/cheapest being 17k. Ouch.
    My electric bills are between $275 - $325 throughout the year. Increase coming our way in July. Water bill averages $60-$70 per month.

    Solar World model is 175w PV with 30 panels with Sunny Boy SB500 inverter. The solar water heater is a progressive tube.

    Sunpower model is SPR-215, 22 panels.

    Why the difference in the number of panels?
    BTW, reasoning is to save $s in a state w/energy bills, insurance, etc. going sky high.

    Stan
  • nielniel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    maybe solar guppy, as a florida resident, may know of some installers and what's a good deal down there. solar is a good backup, but it is not foolproof. this being for a/c (air conditioning) will encompass a large battery bank to be primarilly charged by the utility ac. the numbers of pvs you can afford or have room for will be a factor when no utility ac power is available to charge the batteries, as to how well it will work and for how long. maybe an automatic generator would also help, but during long term outages you may be in trouble.
    seeing as how this is for a/c then if you own the place you're in it would be highly desirable to place lots of insulation in the walls and ceiling along with good doors and windows. it's easier said than done sometimes to do all of this stuff, i know. i'm not in the same boat you are in physically, but i'm highly restricted in what i can do too and little $ to pay for it so i can understand what you're up against. your life may depend on the a/c so maybe there's a way to make ss pick up the tab if it is prescribed? worth a shot?
    let me know at least in a pm if you don't wish to post it here as to what you find out or have already found out.
    hmm, bradenton. that's where the pirates are during winter. too bad i'm not a sports nut.:p
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 29,717 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Stan,

    Regarding your power--We really need your kWhr per month (summer/winter) from your bill. I don't know your rate plan ($ per kWhr pricing)--so I cannot really give you any energy usage estimate... But it sounds like around 1,000 to 3,000 kWhrs per month or so...

    That is a huge amount of power. Just as a comparison (of course, I don't have A/C)--I am around 200-250 kWhrs per month for my home. And off set the power with a 3kW grid tied system.

    We have tiered rates out here--the more power you use, the more you pay... With my Time Of Use plan, I start out at $0.09 per kWhr (night, 300 kWhrs per month or less), but if I use a lot of power during a summer afternoon, it can get up to $0.53 per kWhr...

    I am not claiming to be an expert on your inverter/system... But, as I understand the SunnyBoy SB500 is a Grid Tie unit only and will not provide you with emergency power (if your utility power goes out, so does your solar GT inverter).

    It is possible to use the SB500 in an off-grid capable system, but there will have to be quite a bit more hardware required to make it all work...

    A grid tie 5kW system (roughly the size of your system) would cost around $40,000+... And an off-grid capable system would cost, very roughly, probably more than $60,000 installed.

    A grid tied 5kW system (with ~5.8 kW of solar panels) would, in Tampa generate approximately 550-700+ kWhrs per month (depending on season) or 7,910 kWhrs per year (roughly $800 of power per year at $0.10 per kWhr).

    An off grid system with 5.8 kW of solar panels, would generate about 350-500 kWhrs per month (5,212 kWhrs per year)--so on those without utility power, because of battery and inverter inefficiencies, you will get some 1/3 less power than during grid tied operation.

    I am making a lot of guesses here--so I could be very wrong on what has been quoted for you--however, I do want to warn you that solar electric power is not cheap, and off-grid capable power costs even more. And some solar power vendors are not very clear or, sometimes, very honest, about the capabilities and costs of solar power.

    For somebody that needs a little backup power--a smallish generator (perhaps with a backup for somebody with your needs) may be a more cost effective solution...

    Normally, I would suggest a room A/C unit and a Honda eu2000i generator (or even two, one for backup). The only use a few gallons of gas per day (depending on load) and are very quiet. ~$900 each. Store 20 gallons of fuel with stabilizer and replace it once per year (dump into car and refill).

    But, because these are manual start--you would want a electric start--the Honda eu3000i is electric start (don't know price)--but because it is larger, not quite as fuel efficient.

    Or--have a friend that installed an RV generator in his home... Still relatively small, and can use propane or natural gas. Quiet and pretty efficient too.

    The $17,000 generator (should include an automatic transfer switch) starts to look pretty good in comparison... The major drawback is that the fuel costs can be pretty expensive...

    A 12kW LP home backup generator with automatic start and transfer switch will use around 1-2 gallons of LP per hour--$4-$10 per hour.. And you need to store around 75-100 gallons for 3-4 days of backup power. But the thing will cost you less than $6,000 (plus installation).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Solar GuppySolar Guppy Solar Expert Posts: 1,962 ✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    In Tampa I would use http://solarsource.net/content/view/11/33/, I personally know the owner. He has been in the business longer than anyone is a very honest and knowledgeable person ( Wayne Wallace )

    The only thing I would like to see is for him to start using using the Xantrex XW series hybird charger/inverters ( They use the Beacon units ), for your application, a single XW-6048 would allow full backup AND gridtie in a single unit.

    Give him a call, you won't find a better installer in the State.

    As for rebates, all the money is gone for the upcomming year for the Florida 4.00watt/20k maximum, so if you install, it would be July 2009 before you could get rebate dollars for solar, but if you wanted even a chance of getting the rebate, you would have to install this year, if you wait others will get this funds as it first come first serve with no reservations.
  • System2System2 Posts: 6,290 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Here is my June bill for electricity (about $20 more than usual):

    Customer charge = $5.34

    Kwh used: 2814
    Kwh per day: 88
    1st 1000kwh @ $0.05227
    Over 1000kwh @ $0.6227
    Total c ost above $165.23

    non-fuel
    1st 1000 kwh @ $0.04134
    Over 1000kwh @ $0.05166
    Total cost above $135.05

    Grand total: $313.0-8 (I had a $350 credit)

    Sunpower Model is kinda new: SPR-225
    Pmax = 225w
    Cec/PTC = 207.1

    Stan
  • BrockBrock Solar Expert Posts: 633 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Stan this can't be for one room? That is more power then we use in an all electric house, then again maybe everything you have is electric.

    I can say I have heard good things about the split Mitsubishi slim's. Just don't oversize it for the space, they tend to do that, not that it will hurt but the larger unit you get the larger inverter you need to start it. You better off with a smaller unit run 12 of 24 then one that runs 6 of 24. Also if you can get it running mostly when the sun is shining that is better.
    3kw solar PV, 8 L16's, xw 5548, Honda eu2000i, iota DLS-54-13, Leaf EV, 4 ton horizontal geothermal, grid tied - Green Bay, WI
  • System2System2 Posts: 6,290 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    This is whole house electric bill.
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 29,717 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Stan,

    I don't live in your area--so I can't imagine how that much power is used other than as a pure electric home with lots of A/C requirements...

    Many times, utilities will offer energy audits (sometimes without any charges)... Perhaps, that would be your first stop.

    And, just for comparison, a 3,000 kWhr monthly bill in Northern California would be something like $940 or so per month (I have natural gas--so there is some break for those without natural gas--and live in inland areas--peak rate is around $0.35 per kWhr for heavy users)...

    I only mention this as an incentive to looking at conservation. Seems that those of us on the left and right coasts are getting really hit with progressive rates for heavy energy usage from our utility companies (legacy of the late 1970's energy crises).

    You may not be paying these rates now--but, I would guess, there are those out there that are trying to figure out how to roll those in everywhere. So--it would be in your best interest to figure out how to cut your electrical usage a lot (1/2 to 1/10th of current usage?).

    If you have electric hot water--certainly solar hot water is a good idea.

    But, to build a system that can run 3,000 kwatts*hours [fix-BB] a month (assuming Grid Tied) in Tampa would be a 26 kW system--probably north of $200,000 worth of equipment to "zero out" your electrical usage for 1 year (assuming you have 3,000 kWhrs per month * 12 months).

    I would guess that Solar Electric (grid tied--or off-grid capable in an emergency) would be cost prohibitive for most people (off-grid would cost almost 2x as much--including the scheduled battery replacements).

    A reasonable sized 5kW Grid Tied system will only generate an average of 500-600 kWhrs per month (approximate over 1 year)... And that would still cost you ~$40,000 or so...

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Solar GuppySolar Guppy Solar Expert Posts: 1,962 ✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Stan, As BB points out, your kW usage is high, even for Florida.

    My home uses about 1800 kWh, its 2500 sf built in 1996. Friends bill have been close to your usage, those were 1970's sytle home that had next to no insulation, one was a 1100sf home that used 2200 kWh, just this week they had a local company come in and spray in 12" of fiberglass into the attic, I would expect to see a 500-700kHr reduction in there usage, cost was 650.00

    AC units are the big users of electric and older systems are half as efficient as new ones. You can cut your Electric demand 40-50% buy installing a new system. if you choose the route, make sure the SEER rating is 16 or better

    So listed in order for our climate of things to do BEFORE solar

    1) Insulate the attic, minimum R40 ( 14" deep )
    2) Upgrade you AC to a SEER 16 minimum ( I'm guessing your AC VERY old and SEER 8 or less, this alone will cut your bill in half )
    3) Install Solar Thermal Hotwater, costs 1/10th the cost of PV

    And finally, if you looking into solar because of rebates, its offical, the State Rebate money is ALL GONE. last years applications have used all of the 5 million appropriated for the 2008-2009 budget. So if rebates were what got your attention, that path is not available using the Florida rebates anyways.
  • BrockBrock Solar Expert Posts: 633 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    If you’re going to spend a bunch of money and you have the room you may want to consider geothermal or even a good air source heat pump. It can heat your hot water and cool your home; they run in the 25+seer range, even higher when heating water while cooling. If you’re going to replace you’re A/C I would ask about them. They can also heat in winter to about 10F, but that shouldn’t be a problem for you.
    3kw solar PV, 8 L16's, xw 5548, Honda eu2000i, iota DLS-54-13, Leaf EV, 4 ton horizontal geothermal, grid tied - Green Bay, WI
  • Solar GuppySolar Guppy Solar Expert Posts: 1,962 ✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Geothermal is pretty much unheard of here in central Florida. I like the technology, but there aren't any local installers that I'm aware of in the area, also costs wise, its more than 2-3x more than a SEER 16 system
  • BrockBrock Solar Expert Posts: 633 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Yes, it is quite a bit more then traditional HVAC as you said about 2 to 3 times as much.

    Are heat pumps common? Basically the same as a traditional A/C unit, but can heat domestic water and switch from cooling to heating the space via forced air as well. I suppose they are not as common since you don't have to heat much, but since you air condition more I would think the added hot water would be a big advantage. Basically when cooling the space the hot water is free, instead of dumping that heat outside it heats up your domestic hot water.
    3kw solar PV, 8 L16's, xw 5548, Honda eu2000i, iota DLS-54-13, Leaf EV, 4 ton horizontal geothermal, grid tied - Green Bay, WI
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 29,717 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    I would check closely (search Internet, check references, and such) to see if the heat pump/alternative hot water/ground sourced system have a good, long term reputation...

    A couple years ago when I looked around, many of the systems were not "major brands" and seem to have teething pains (hot water heating, rust/corrosion issues, parts).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • System2System2 Posts: 6,290 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Man,

    After reading all these post's, I am retiring to my observatory tonight.
    I can enjoy astronomy and have less zero's to comtemplate. :)
  • System2System2 Posts: 6,290 admin
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    I took the advice offered here and have done the following to lower my kws:

    1) had installed a Progressive Tube Solar Hot Water Heater,
    2) Installed new hot water tank by same company that did solar,

    3) took time & attorney - had Mitsubishi Mr. Slim's installed to replace 3 in-wall AC units. 2of 3 Mr. Slim's did not work properly. After 1 year of trying to work w/local reps I went directly to Mitsubishi. We are in the process of replacing the 2 defective units (Aug. 9). This should dractically reduce kws per day.

    4) trying to get attic fan installed but company can't guarantee work because of my rubberized roof. I'm trying to put roof company in touch w/attic fan company to install attic fan.

    OK guys, I've put off PV solar panels because the banks are leary to give a home improvement loan and I'm waiting for PV to become more efficient.

    Get this from banks:
    My credit score is 743
    I'm been teaching full-time in the same system for 26 years
    No mortgage
    No car payments
    1 credit card with 1 year @ ZERO % INTEREST with me owing $6500
    No student loans

    I asked for $50k loan for home improvement for PV solar panels & they knew about Florida's rebate of $20k that I said goes directly towards paying the loan. My liquid funds exceed $15k.

    I was declined at 2 banks Could be economy. Could be Florida.
    My decision is to wait for better efficiency in PV panels.

    Any other way to decrease kws guys?
    Stan (near Tampa)

    P.S. SOLAR GUPY, I WENT TO THE COMPANY YOU RECOMMENDED, GREAT ADVICE!!!!!!!


    Stan, As BB points out, your kW usage is high, even for Florida.

    My home uses about 1800 kWh, its 2500 sf built in 1996. Friends bill have been close to your usage, those were 1970's sytle home that had next to no insulation, one was a 1100sf home that used 2200 kWh, just this week they had a local company come in and spray in 12" of fiberglass into the attic, I would expect to see a 500-700kHr reduction in there usage, cost was 650.00

    AC units are the big users of electric and older systems are half as efficient as new ones. You can cut your Electric demand 40-50% buy installing a new system. if you choose the route, make sure the SEER rating is 16 or better

    So listed in order for our climate of things to do BEFORE solar

    1) Insulate the attic, minimum R40 ( 14" deep )
    2) Upgrade you AC to a SEER 16 minimum ( I'm guessing your AC VERY old and SEER 8 or less, this alone will cut your bill in half )
    3) Install Solar Thermal Hotwater, costs 1/10th the cost of PV

    And finally, if you looking into solar because of rebates, its offical, the State Rebate money is ALL GONE. last years applications have used all of the 5 million appropriated for the 2008-2009 budget. So if rebates were what got your attention, that path is not available using the Florida rebates anyways.
  • mike95490mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 8,470 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    > 4) trying to get attic fan installed but company can't guarantee work
    > because of my rubberized roof. I'm trying to put roof company in
    > touch w/attic fan company to install attic fan.

    And so, how will you mount the PV panels ? on a yard pole or rubber roof ?
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • nielniel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    though advancements in efficiency have been coming, they are slow in coming and are not big jumps. you may never get them holding out until some big advancement takes place and i'm sure the price will be much higher on such an efficient pv. you may do well to try to make it another type of a loan or do it the old fashioned way and save your $ until you get enough to do it. i also doubt the banks will be banking on the state giving the rebate money as that may be counting chickens before they hatch.
  • Solar GuppySolar Guppy Solar Expert Posts: 1,962 ✭✭✭
    Re: Pre-Rookie Here 4 Solor

    Having wall units, best case is about SEER 9 maybe SEER 10. You should have CENTRAL AC and get a system of SEER 16 or better. Those wall AC's just suck up the kWh's and in return might give you a little cooling, absolutely the worst possible AC you can have here in Florida

    Also, make sure you do insulation, have the attic blown in fiberglass, minimum R40 ( 14 "), a friend did this last month and drop there AC bill 100 bucks from the month before ... Here in Lakeland, Combee Installation is excellent, one phone call, and they do everything for less than just buying the supplies at Home Depot or Lowes.

    You wall AC's combined with probably little or no insulation is where your electric is going, no question.

    As for loans, NO BANK will be give home equity loans for the near future, in case you have missed it, all loans are defaulting in record amounts and nearly taking the entire banking system with it.
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