schematic
FreeBrrd
Solar Expert Posts: 116 ✭✭✭✭
I drew up my schematic so if anyone would like to check my plans. I tried to make it as self explanitory as possible. Couldn't find symbols for some things so put in pictures.
This is the schematic for my solar system for my little camper on my truck. Just powering a few little fans, lights, and maybe a water (fountain) pump once in a while.
I'm ordering all the goodies in about a week so let me know of any mistakes
Thank you all.
This is the schematic for my solar system for my little camper on my truck. Just powering a few little fans, lights, and maybe a water (fountain) pump once in a while.
I'm ordering all the goodies in about a week so let me know of any mistakes
Thank you all.
Comments
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Re: schematic
I don't think you really need the 10A fuses on the PV's. You have to judge the corrosion of the extra connections against the remote possibility that something will blow a 10 A fuse on a 3 A panelPowerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Re: schematic
I got a really nice waterproof fuse holder. Solder & heatshrink all non plugging connections. Fuse could be on inside of roof instead of outside, only a few inches difference, still accessible. I was thinking, besides it protecting, it can be a shutoff switch by removing fuse. Same at battery. -
Re: schematic
Mikes right, you only put fuses on the panels when you have three or more in parrallel. There is NO reason to fuse a single solar panel, you can short them out and it does nothing to them ( they run at max current at near zero volts which is almost no power ) -
Re: schematic
okey dokey, I knew there was a reason to post the schematic. So now I have a spare fuse holder.
Mike's answer sure made me think more about how the wires are going into the roof with no leaks. Waterproofing is one area that I don't have any experience in. At least my wires are all small and few. -
Re: schematic
fixed that (wish it was that easy in real life) -
Re: schematic
for running your wires - you have a small panel, and with some 18 Ga wires, you won't see much loss - consider running them downhill all the way under the bed, and then come up thru the bed - you may already have access ports there or something to get a cable in. Don't let it pinch. The less holes you NEED to drill in your roof, the less leaks.
How do you plan to anchor your PV panel ?Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Re: schematic
Wires just go from on top of camper in bed to controller in camper to battery box, also in camper so nothing through any metal or into cab.
My GPS antenna I ran thru my courtesy light - it has a light inside the cab & one on the back. If I needed to, I could run another little wire there.
I do have wiring from the bed to underneath thru a grommet for my winch (in the bed of the truck to load the bike in case I'm injured, etc.).
PV panel is getting RV mounts, will be bolted to roof. I'm making the roof 1/2inch plywood over 2x2 cedar studs. I'm going to curve the roof a bit so that it is never flat. I can use on solid piece of plywood for the roof so no seams (one nice thing about small).
I'm also getting a slider to replace my back window unless I run out of money. Otherwise, I'll just remove the window so I can get into the cab from the camper for safety reasons. I may not want to get out of the camper & walk around to the door to drive away. So things can go thru there temporarily - if I want to plug into the lighter, etc. -
Re: schematic
Your Kidding wrigth!!! (Bypass diod mean anything to you?? -
Re: schematic
Will that Sun-saver charge controller take the voltage and or amps from the addition of the extra collector?...Make sure before hand..Just my 2 cents.:D -
Re: schematicWires just go from on top of camper in bed to controller in camper to battery box, also in camper so nothing through any metal or into cab.
My GPS antenna I ran thru my courtesy light - it has a light inside the cab & one on the back. If I needed to, I could run another little wire there.
I do have wiring from the bed to underneath thru a grommet for my winch (in the bed of the truck to load the bike in case I'm injured, etc.).
PV panel is getting RV mounts, will be bolted to roof. I'm making the roof 1/2inch plywood over 2x2 cedar studs. I'm going to curve the roof a bit so that it is never flat. I can use on solid piece of plywood for the roof so no seams (one nice thing about small).
I'm also getting a slider to replace my back window unless I run out of money. Otherwise, I'll just remove the window so I can get into the cab from the camper for safety reasons. I may not want to get out of the camper & walk around to the door to drive away. So things can go thru there temporarily - if I want to plug into the lighter, etc.okey dokey, I knew there was a reason to post the schematic. So now I have a spare fuse holder.
Mike's answer sure made me think more about how the wires are going into the roof with no leaks. Waterproofing is one area that I don't have any experience in. At least my wires are all small and few.
Simple Fix,. Use a 3/4 " weather tight coupler and drill a single hole through the roof,or AC head; make sure to use rhw 2 or use 2 wire ,....:cool: works very well for RV's -
Re: schematic
Solarinstaller,
The post is almost a year old, and the last visit of the original poster was 4+ months ago...
Not sure why you are asking about a by-pass diode--Not needed when paralleling panels, and by-pass diodes are normally included inside the solar panels themselves.
The MorningStar MPPT 15 amp charge controller is good for ~200+a bit watt solar panel with a 12 volt battery and 400+ watts for a 24 volt system.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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