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Chris11
Chris11 Registered Users Posts: 130 ✭✭
in Solar Beginners Corner #1
I bought new Costco GC2 bats today.  The last 4 lasted 6 years despite me treating them hard.  I'm also going to increase the 1200 watt array to 2000 to make my Prius Plug-In happy.  My simple question .... what do I use over the pole connections to stop the insidious gross ugly probably resistant crap that forms over them?  I've tried grease...but what's the best.  Thankee.  Chrsi
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  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    #2
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    On car batteries, I have used:

    Permatex Battery Protector And Sealer

    And I have used the little red/green fabric washers that contain an anti-corrosive of some sort:

    Super Start Terminal Protectors

    And try to prevent the batteries from spilling over when... Filling to the "split rings" when cold/not charging--As batteries charge and gas, plus electrolyte gets warm/hot (expands)--Tends to cause electrolyte to spill out on the top of the batteries.

    Ensuring plates are covered before charging, filling to 1/2 full when cold, and only filling when warm/gassing (sill avoid 100% fill--Leave a bit of space).

    Other possibility is to get Water Miser battery caps (have something like small plastic(?) balls inside to help capture electrolyte mist when gassing)--Assuming you can find the correct type to fit your Costco batteries (threaded vs bayonet/etc.). There are different sizes too (taller, better mist recycling?).

    https://www.solar-electric.com/batwatmiscap.html

    Otherwise, just using old rags to clean the top of the batteries. Perhaps a little baking soda on the wetted rags (avoid getting in cells--obviously).

    The issue with flooded cell lead acid batteries--They are not the cleanest type... AGM/Sealed types are much nicer (cost more, may not last as long as "same quality" FLA batteries).

    Watch water usage... Typically need to refill cells every 1-6 months (some batteries use less water by design). Using too much water, check charging voltage setting (possibly too much Equalizing charging). If you hardly ever need to add water, possibly undercharging battery bank.

    And the old monthly/yearly maintenance. Cleaning batteries, cleaning/re-torquing electrical connections, checking battery/cell voltages to be "close" to other cells/batteries in bank, use a DC Current Clamp meter to ensure that all parallel strings are roughly sharing charging/discharging currents, etc.).

    And using metal tools that have been wrapped with electrical tape to avoid shorting the bank with the handles. Using some sort of eye protection. Wearing old clothes to avoid acid bleaching/burns.

    Anyway--My 2 cents worth of advise.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #3
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    I've heard warmed petroleum jelly (vaseline) is good, brush on a thin coat, then connect cables.  I used that method on my bank. Only takes a little bit, dont glop it all over the place
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

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  • Chris11
    Chris11 Registered Users Posts: 130 ✭✭
    #4
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    Thanks Bill and Mike.  I went to Napa and bought some sealer.  They didn't have the Permatex .... another brand which I bought.  Mike, it was Vasoline I was using which I referred to as grease.  It doesn't seem to last.  Dunno why, perhaps the summer heat melts it and opens a space for the corrosion to sneak through.
    Now for another question.  Some years back I came across a car site that had a heated argument going ... whether or not to apply the sealant or vaseline before attaching the cable to the post, or apply it after.  Those who suggested after said the Vaseline was dielectric and would interfere with a positive connection, and the other school of thought was that the Vaseline would be squeezed out.
    My thoughts right now are to attach all cables then use the sealant.  What are your thoughts?  Thanks again.
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  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    #5
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    With very active metals, like aluminum, cleaning to "bare metal" will form insulating oxides within minutes. So keeping the surface free from contact with oxygen even during assembly, is a big help.

    For less reactive metals (lead, copper, etc.), protecting surfaces during assembly is not needed.

    Some folks here have used Lithium based greases, which may be better for in-joint use.

    In general, tightening the bolts should squeeze grease out and get good metal to metal contact. And should extrude the greases from the contact area and not reduce the electrical resistance (vs dry assembly).

    I have used grease on connections (including electrical plugs), and not have any problem. So--If I was pressed, I would suggest that grease in the joints is not an issue and may help reduce wicking of fluids into the joint through any small channels in the metal faces.

    No-Ox is a well known electrical contact grease:

    https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html

    And I have used silicon dielectric grease (such as in the bases of light bulbs for brakes, turn signals and such) to keep out water/corrosion... Worked well.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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  • Dave Angelini
    Dave Angelini Solar Expert Posts: 6,746 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    #6
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    I do not use anything but water on my customers batteries. Maybe some vodka the first time after abrading the metal with a 3M scotch-bright. Wipe tops off once every month or so with water and a cloth. Use a quality charger that will charge and then float. Program the set-points correctly per manufacture spec. Learned this about 40 years ago and not knocking other opinions. o:)

     I think most of the problems people have with corrosion is poor equipment or overcharging. They probably top the battery off and then do an EQ which is the wrong order. I use Schneider and Outback because they make power systems that can be networked.
    "we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
       htps://offgridsolar1.com/
    E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net

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  • Chris11
    Chris11 Registered Users Posts: 130 ✭✭
    #7
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    I read your link Bill...then tried to buy that stuff at Napa.  Nope, no hadum it.  So I bought some stuff called Anti-Ox.  I'll spread that on the connection points then once all cable are attached I'll spray that sealant on.

    Dave, I agree, nothing quite like a bottle of Vodka to help the install.....hahahahaha.  Except I use the anti Corona virus stuff called Corona beer.  

    I have the Outback Flexmax 80.  I had phoned Interstate for their advice on setpoints when I was first setting up my lil ol system.


    Thank you.   
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  • Dave Angelini
    Dave Angelini Solar Expert Posts: 6,746 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    #8
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    Corona is fine with a lime.
     My point was to use the scotch brite on the mating surfaces, wipe with vodka or clean household alcohol (no soap or additives) torque and never disconnect until you need new batteries.

    You would be asking the battery manufacturer for set-points not Outback BTW.
    "we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
       htps://offgridsolar1.com/
    E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net

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