Off-grid cabin, large system, starting from scratch

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  • Bluedog225
    Bluedog225 Registered Users Posts: 27 ✭✭
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    Thanks everyone.  This has been hugely helpful.

    I am realistically 5 years from living there full time (if ever).  Until then, it can remain a get-away for the cooler 8 months.  I wonder if there is a smart middle ground.

    I was thinking of a “make hay while the sun shines” approach.  Specifically, enough solar to power a 12,000 btu mini-split ac/heat pump set up in a virtual tracking manner.  And enough LiFePO4 to make it work smoothy.  

    The purpose of the solar would be to extend the season and supplement wood heat in the winter.  We have 9-10 hours of daylight in the summer months to work with.  I can scope down the cooled area to make it work (i.e. just the loft).  The rest of the necessities would be ice chests and propane.

    I’d like to verify a couple of assumptions.

    1.  Can I add panels later (mix old and new) in 5 years as long as I balance the strings in terms of watts?  And use a MPPT controller.
    2.  Can I add new battery capacity later if I go with the Battle Born?  My understanding is that the internal charge controller will allow this.
    3. Is there any smart move regarding the controller?  I will need more capacity if I expand later.  It may be that I just replace it.

    Thanks again

    Tom


  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    This is a difficult question to answer... Don't know the size (from 1,000 WH per day or 3,300 WH, or 10,000 WH). But some general suggestions...Theses are all my opinion and can be "wrong" if somebody makes other assumptions, and/or there are changes in what is available 5-10 years from now...
    • My suggestion is that you can up or down size a system by 2x or 1/2x.... More than that, (3-10x or more up sizing), really a new system design and hardware.
    • Specifically, AC inverters and DC loads (lights, radio/electronics, etc.) are usually fixed input voltages (12/24/48 volts typical for home solar). If you change battery bank voltage, these loads generally need to be changed out too.
    • PWM solar charge controllers can be operated at 12/24 or 12/24/48 volts. This will require rewiring the solar array (Vmp~18/36/72 volts) as the battery voltage changes (you can rewire what you have... I.e., 12 in parallel or 2x 6 in series parallel or 4x 3 in series parallel). Or, you may choose to add more panels in series (or series parallel) to increase the array wattage (with matched panels).
    • MPPT solar charge controllers... Also typically available in 12/24 or 12/24/48 volt ranges (roughly). You can run (for example) a 80-100 volt Vmp array, and (no rewiring of the array) simply switch out/rewire your battery bank voltage.
    • Adding Batteries... Lead Acid batteries can be more of a pain to add new batteries to an old bank. Li Ion batteries with integrated BMS, may be perfectly OK to add more new batteries to an old bank (need to check with vendor).
    • And there is the issue of changes in technology... Solar panels (Vmp/Imp/Pmp) have been changing evey 2-4 years. Trying to find a few panels to "match" (Vmp and/or Imp within 10% or better) can be very difficult. There is no "standard" anymore that makes mixing/matching panels "easy" (depends on what you have, your controllers, and what is in the market 5+ years from now).
    • There is also changes in technology for charge controller--Communications buses, capacity, voltage ratings, etc. can also change. And trying to match a "small" Controller with a new "large" controller--You may not be able to bus them together (unified computer control, centralized data harvest, etc.). Almost always, you can parallel two or more controllers on a single battery bank--And there is no real issues with doing this (each controller makes its own charging decisions--mode changes will not be synchronized between controllers--No big deal).
    • If you increase system current (larger inverter, more batteries, larger charge controllers, etc.), you will either increase wire AWG and/or increase battery bank voltage (P=V*I ... twice the current equals twice the power, OR twice the voltage equals twice the power).
    We can give you rules of thumb:
    • 12 volt battery bank--Roughly 1,200-1,800 Watts maximum inverter and solar array power
    • 24 volt battery bank--Roughly 2,400-3,600 Watts maximum DC bus power
    • 48 volt battery bank--Roughly 2,400-3,600 Watts to 10,000 - 20,000 Watts DC bus power
    I use a 3,300 WH per day system as a "near normal" electrical existence for a very conservation minded home/family (full size refrigerator/freezer, LED lighting, Laptop Computer, LED TV, clothes washer, "solar friendly" well pump.

    A 3x larger system or 10,000 WH per day (10 kWH per day or 300 kWH per month) is not much power in Air Conditioning land...

    Next post, I will give you the basic math for making a calculation... Starting with a 3.3 kWH per day system:

    -Bill

    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    edited November 2019 #34
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    First sizing the battery bank... I will start with Lead Acid just so you can see what a "basic system" will entail/cost. A LiFePO4 battery bank may be 1/2 the AH capacity vs a FLA bank (at least to start the discussion).

    For FLA battery bank, 2 days of stored energy, 50% maximum discharge for longer battery life (you can do 80% discharge, but battery bank should be quickly recharged to have a good battery life). Will pick a 24 volt battery bank--But for this size system and larger, starting with 48 volts may be better for you if you plan on expanding the system:
    • 3,300 WH per day * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/24 volt battery bank * 2 days storage * 1/0.50 maximum discharge = 647 AH @ 24 volts
    • 647 AH @ 24 volts = 323 AH @ 48 volts (same stored energy--Just a higher voltage / lower AH capacity
    And then there are two calculations for recharging the battery bank... One based on 5% to 13-20% rate of charge (5% for weekend cabin, 10% or more for full time off grid). The other is based on hours of sun per day and your loads...

    Sizing array based on battery bank capacity:
    • 647 AH * 29.0 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.05 rate of charge = 1,218 Watt array minimum
    • 647 AH * 29.0 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.10 rate of charge = 2,437 Watt array nominal
    • 647 AH * 29.0 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.13 rate of charge = 3,168 Watt array "typical cost effective maximum"
    • 647 AH * 29.0 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.20 rate of charge = 4,874 Watt array not to exceed
    The above numbers are based on FLA battery capabilities. But are a good place to start with Li Ion and other battery designs.

    And sizing the array based on loads and hours of sun per day. Austin Texas, fixed array, facing south, average tilt:
    http://www.solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.html

    Austin
    Average Solar Insolation figures

    Measured in kWh/m2/day onto a solar panel set at a 60° angle from vertical (30 degrees from Horizontal):
    (For best year-round performance)

    JanFebMarAprMayJun
    3.82
     
    4.18
     
    4.86
     
    5.27
     
    5.19
     
    5.65
     
    JulAugSepOctNovDec
    5.90
     
    5.72
     
    5.31
     
    4.87
     
    4.07
     
    3.67
     

    This is a very sunny region during winter (cloudy/hazy days in summer?). Let's use the December hours of sun as "break even" month.
    • 3,300 WH per day * 1/0.52 off grid AC FLA battery eff * 1/3.67 hours of sun per day (Dec) = 1,729 Watt December Break Even array
    So 1,729 Watt array + a little "winter" genset usage--Nice home/cabin, but no A/C... Let us look at a 3,168 Watt array. And assume no A/C needed during November through January... That gives us Feb at 4.18 Hours of sun per day (long term average sun) with the larger array:
    • 3,168 Watt array * 0.52 off grid system eff * 4.18 hours of sun = 6,886 WH per day nominal
    • 6,886 WH per day harvest - 3,300 WH base home loads = 3,586 WH = 3.6 kWH per day of "A/C energy available" during non-winter
    Anyway--Just some relatively simple math to show how to model the system and loads. Fairly conservative... A 647 AH @ 24 volt battery bank could start with 4x 6 volt @ 220 AH "golf cart" batteries in series * 3 parallel strings for 660 AH. Or 12 Golf Cart Batteries total.

    While Li Ion batteries are certainly very interesting (and expensive), starting a system with "golf cart" batteries as your "beginner system" is not bad. GC batteries are fairly cheap and forgiving. And if you "murder" your first bank (many of us do)--You are not out a huge amount of money. And after 3-5 years, if you want to completely reconfigure the system, the old battery bank has done its job for not too much money.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Bluedog225
    Bluedog225 Registered Users Posts: 27 ✭✭
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    Wow....thanks Bill!

    That’s a lot to digest.  I’ll need a little time to work through it.

    I’d forgotten about the rate of charge limitations.
  • Bluedog225
    Bluedog225 Registered Users Posts: 27 ✭✭
    edited November 2019 #36
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    One more question.

    In an AC only scenario, I was under the impression that if I had, say 2000-ish watts of solar panel, I could run a 1200 watt mini split (soft start), with a smallish battery to handle an occasional cloud or hiccup.  

    Just run it when I had enough sun (which could be a significant part of the day).

    My thinking on battle born was that it would take care of itself in this scenario.  Auto shut off, overcharge protection, deep discharge.  Not sure how I would kill it.

    Basically, running the AC off the solar.  Is this possible in real life?  Put another way, can I run the AC off the solar without worrying about the charge limitations?

    Thanks

    Tom
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    Hi Tom,

    Take your time and ask questions... I try to write the math like an English sentence. And use "your numbers" (or my guesses) rather than using variables A, B, C, or AC_Watts, Panel_Eff, etc.

    This way you can see where my fudge factors are (solar array efficiency, inverter efficiency, battery losses, etc.) are all entered.

    Lithium are much more efficient (probably close ot 99%, where FLA batteries are closer to 80-90% efficient. Some of the efficiency numbers are dependent on exactly how you operate the system (day/night, 10% of rating, 50% of rating, etc.). Much of this stuff would drive you nuts to take everything to the 4 digit accuracy.

    So, instead, I try for +/- 10% accuracy for guesstimates. Going for "more accurate or more precise" just is not worth it. The amount sun can vary from 10% to >100% of average harvest (weather, bird droppings on panels, etc.). And for normal folks, who knows their daily or hourly loads within 10% accuracy. If you are within a factor of 2 or 1/2... The is just how things work out. Some days you will use more power (fresh food in fridge, making ice, doing the wash), and other days you will use less energy... You can look estimate how much sun/battery storage and decide to turn on the "optional loads", start the genset, or wait for the next sunny day.

    I suggest that the system should work for what you need without having to manage loads except for gross issues (been cloudy last two days--Conserve power or startup the genset). And if you have spouse, kids, visitors--More than likely they will not do 5% of the power management that you would do (and if you are not there, they can drain and kill your battery bank--leaving loads/tv on, nobody home).

    Can you run a mini-split system on a solar power system with a "small/LiFePO4" battery bank--Yes... But what about the rest of your power needs (Lights, refrigerator, laptop, washing machine, well pump, TV/Radio/Cell phone).

    Designing a power system optimized to run just a mini-split (and you have modulate the power consumption of the mini-split)--It can be done, and folks are out there that are integrating Solar+Mini-Split systems with Arduino or Raspberry Pi single board computers.

    If you are into to these type of projects... They are very powerful and a great education.

    If you want the system just to work... You would want to find somebody that has already done the hardware of integration (perhaps some folks here can suggest sources).

    Or you can also find (don't know how many are out there) HVAC systems designed to run from solar only (and can use Grid or Battery backup power):

    pberrypi.org/documentation/raspbian/updating.md

    I don't know anything about the above website--Just a starting point for your research.

    You can get DC refrigeration compressors that run from solar power, or even complete refrigerators that run from solar/DC power directly. They are not cheap, and tend to be smaller systems. Danfoss DC refer compressors are well known.

    https://sundanzer.com/product-category/household/

    They tend to be on the expensive side... Make sense if this is your only electrical load...

    If you are planning on a larger Solar power system (lights, refrigerator, well pump, washing machine, laptop/TV/phone charging/etc.), generally it ends up being less expensive to simply add up all your AC loads and design an off grid solar power system to run it (suggest 9+ months out of a year occupation). Just pick very efficient AC appliances and don't waste power.

    If you are looking at a Weekend/seasonal place--A large AC solar power system (fridge, etc.) usually just does not make economic sense... Design a small (500-1,000 WH per day system) for lights/laptop/tablet/phone charging/12 volt water pump... And use propane for fridge/hot water/heating/cooking.

    There are so many battery types/designs/etc. out there... The above numbers are suggested starting points. As always, need to confirm the battery mfg/manuals need to be reviewed... There are some MPPT Solar Charge controllers that can limit battery charging current and yet deliver "excess power" to other loads on the DC bus (and AC loads on the inverters).

    In engineering you cannot really say "something cannot be done"... With the electronics and computer/system controllers that are available today--Much of what we dream can be done. But has somebody already turned that into a product, or does the user have enough knowledge to design and integrate their controllers into existing products...

    What end of the spectrum are you (hard core DIY, or you want the stuff to "just work" without daily interactions)... Everyone is different. No right answer.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • mcgivor
    mcgivor Solar Expert Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
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    One more question.

    In an AC only scenario, I was under the impression that if I had, say 2000-ish watts of solar panel, I could run a 1200 watt mini split (soft start), with a smallish battery to handle an occasional cloud or hiccup.  

    Just run it when I had enough sun (which could be a significant part of the day).

    My thinking on battle born was that it would take care of itself in this scenario.  Auto shut off, overcharge protection, deep discharge.  Not sure how I would kill it.

    Basically, running the AC off the solar.  Is this possible in real life?  Put another way, can I run the AC off the solar without worrying about the charge limitations?

    Thanks

    Tom

    This is the evolution of my system as it somewhat resembles what you have discussed thus far.

    When I became full-time off grid I built a system primarily to support a refrigerator, water pump, washing machine, lights and other minor charging loads. This consisted of 1500W PV, 400Ah golf cart batteries, a 2000W inverter, this system was used for a year before building a new house about 100' away, the new house was to be more complete with greater loads including A/C. Rather than expand thre existing system I decided to build a complete new one and integrate the two.

    The new system was sized approximately the same as the first but the battery would be 400Ah LiFePo4, knowing that it has  greater discharge tollerance meant it has more usable capacity, but the primary reason for switching to LFP was temperature, most days are above 34°C (93°F) with 2-3 months often up to 45°C (113°F) sometimes higher, not ideal for lead acid but fine with LFP.

    My use of air conditioning consists of two seperate 9000 BTU inverter split units, one Samsung efficient the other Diakin very efficient, the first used during the day for general space the second for bedroom useage overnight. During the day the Samsung is set to 30°C (86°F) to make the space somewhat comfortable especially when humidity is ~100%, for bedroom 26°c (79°F) is used. The Samsung uses ~450W in economic mode most of the time during the day, the Diakin runs intermittently between 150 to 250W once the setpoint is reached.

    To use both solar systems, the new house, or main inverter, is programed to stop inverting between  ~ 10 pm - 9am, season dependent, both inverters feed an auto transfer switch, this allows the old system, which has lower idle consumption, to take over when demand is relitivly low. This results in relitivly shallow discharge of both batteries, the LFP bank is able to charge in a much shorter time usually before temperatures rises enough to warrant A/C, the lead acid system has the whole day to charge and pump water as needed.

    It really takes time to achieve a ballance, I used a whole house energy monitor to log consumption which made things easier, mathematical calculation is helpful but there is difficulty  calculating  variable loads common to inverter driven appliances. Perhaps using a generator and power logging device to set a benchmark during times of high temperature would be helpful.

    To answer the question if a 2000W array could support a 1200W inverter air conditioning until, the answer is more complicated than a simple yes or no. The demand depends on many factors, the initial cooling requires the most energy, once the setpoint is met the demand is reduced, the higher the efficiency the lower the current, so it would be a ballance between battery capacity and PV capacity. Lithium batteries are made to deal with dynamic charging and dischargeing, able to recover themselves very rapidly, hense their use in EV applications.

    My guestimate would be somewhere around 3000W PV would be needed but it is really dependant on many factors, as temperature increases PV output decreases and load  demand increases. Naturally insulation will be a factor as well, it's such a complex equation it's virtually impossible to definitively come to a conclusion, which is why I suggested doing a generator and logging device to trial run and establish a baseline.

    Forgive the long post.
    1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS 
    Second system 1890W  3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.  
    5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.
  • Bluedog225
    Bluedog225 Registered Users Posts: 27 ✭✭
    edited November 2019 #39
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    Great post.  Thanks for all the detail!  It’s good to hear about systems that are actually in operation.

    I “don’t mind” more panels.  Since they have such a long life (maybe more than me).  And I think I can insulate the loft area pretty well.  A 1200 watt AC would turn the place into a deep freeze and that would go a long way towards carrying me through the evening and night.  And while it is true we have some 90F+ mornings, the heat load is substantially reduced when the sun is down.

    I’m working on a system diagram.  I’d like go find a controller/inverter with the following:

    -MPPT to help with virtual tracking
    -low voltage disconnect and restore to stop and start the AC system only at something like 80% battery voltage.
    -the ability to accept generator supplementation. 

    The balance of the available amps could be used as needed and this would routinely keep the battery use low.

    I’m hoping with something like 400ah of LiFePo4 I would have a pretty “live-able” solution.   And if I understand correctly, they have the self protection electronics built in.

    Thanks again.