Troubleshooting a linear current booster

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MostlyHarmless
MostlyHarmless Registered Users Posts: 4
Good day, all;

I have a Dankoff DL-8 linear current booster my brother removed from his solar water pumping system (removed because it was not working right).  With my basic electronics knowledge, I am trying to troubleshoot and repair it, but am not sure exactly what behavior I should see from it regarding input and output voltage (and current).

From what I understand, the output voltage should remain roughly equal to the input voltage when the input is below the motor voltage.  As the input increases, the output voltage should increase, as well, until the motor voltage is reached.  After this point, the output voltage should remain relatively steady (12 volts in my case), with the available current increasing.

Is this a correct assumption?

However, I see a one-to-one match between input and output voltages -- when the input voltage is up to 17-18 volts, the output is exactly the same.  

Inspecting the board, it appears as if some components (the MOSFET, power transistor, and power rectifier) have overheated at some point.  Also, a 15 Amp fuse is used, when the specs call for a max of 10 A (came this way from the installer, according to my brother).  Since it appears that an out-of-spec fuse could have cause these components to overheat and fail, I've ordered parts to replace them.

Once I have the components replaced, can anyone provide thoughts as to what testing I can do to check if I've fixed the problem?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers!

Comments

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    Mostly Harmless,

    Did you flag your post to be deleted--Or was it an accident?

    -Bill "moderator" B.
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • NANOcontrol
    NANOcontrol Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭✭
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    Generally, it is just a modified buck converter.  It outputs as much voltage as it can until it draws as much current from the panel till the panel voltage drops to a fixed voltage.  Some limit the upper voltage. A diode has to be across the motor and it has to be a high speed type. Look for a possible short. Check the FET for resistance between the two outside pins.  This is gate to source and usually when the FET is bad it will be low ohms, less than 100. These sound impressive and expensive, but are pretty simple.
  • jonr
    jonr Solar Expert Posts: 1,386 ✭✭✭✭
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    For testing, you could use a 12V power supply current limited to 1A as the input and a 2 ohm power resistor on the output.  You should see the input voltage remain at 12V and output voltage drop to 4 point something.

    I am available for custom hardware/firmware development

  • MostlyHarmless
    MostlyHarmless Registered Users Posts: 4
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    Nope, I didn't do any flagging...  must have clicked on something wrong.

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    edited September 2019 #6
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    No problem... The discussion (thread) is up and running.
    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • MostlyHarmless
    MostlyHarmless Registered Users Posts: 4
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    Thanks for the inputs, folks!  Good stuff, here.