Induction cooktop with proper powe levels vs pulsating high power levels.

I am wondering if any of the common induction cooktops have actual graduated power levels.
Like on low say a 200w setting. Actually having a consistent 200w load. Rather than most that seem to be full power, just not on all the time.
May run full power for 5 seconds then off for 20 or something like that. To get average power usage down.
While actual cooking is probably pretty close either way, running off an inverter would be nice to have consistent power levels vs pulsating.
Hope that made sense.
I am particularly interested in consumer grade stuff. But any info would be useful.
Thanks
Like on low say a 200w setting. Actually having a consistent 200w load. Rather than most that seem to be full power, just not on all the time.
May run full power for 5 seconds then off for 20 or something like that. To get average power usage down.
While actual cooking is probably pretty close either way, running off an inverter would be nice to have consistent power levels vs pulsating.
Hope that made sense.
I am particularly interested in consumer grade stuff. But any info would be useful.
Thanks
Comments
Both will use the same energy amounts to produce the same temperature outputs.
Either will work as well as the other on an inverter.
Kind of like having a pressure pump short cycle every 30 seconds. Steady state is much more friendly.
I imagine most are pulsated as I imagine a programmed timer is all that is needed to simulate a certain output. Would imagine slight cheaper. And the cookware is a buffer anyway that smooths out power levels.
Obviously in the above I am talking about plug in/ above counter units.
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
there are a lot of these videos. I had one shoot out flames in my hallway light, luckily, it didn't catch anything else on fire.
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
First I demonstrated on a small system a constant draw at 50% vs
100% power for 50 percent of the time
Constant draw would be vastly more benificial.
As in the pulsating situation could usher the whole thing useless.
And your analysis of running cooler is a bunch of nonsense.
We can examine the situation above.
10 amp at 50% duty cycle.
And
5amp at 100 duty cycle.
I^2R losses would be 50R for the 10 amp load. 50 percent duty cycle
I^2R losses would be 25Rfor the 5 amp load 100 percent duty cycle.
At 50 percent average load pulsating power has DOUBLE I^2R losses.
At
10 amp 20% duty cycle. 20R. I^2R LOSSES
Vs
2 amp 100 duty cycle. 4R I^2R LOSSES.
5X THE DIFFERNECE in I2R loses .
You should be able to see a pattern.
The difference in I2R losses ends up being 1/duty cycle.
10 percent duty cycle 1/.1= 10x I2R losses for pulsating
The heat has to go somewhere. That is into the inverter to deal with. The inverter running cooler is a bunch of baloney.
My breakdown to very simplistic as it does not include many things, like where inverter is most efficient etc. I am open to more detailed analysis if you care to provide it.
And there could be a myriad of other usages. Only thing I can see in favor of pulsating power is cheaper implementation.
My understanding constant loads are winners in most situations. Much less stressful on things.
Curious which cooktop you have that has accurate power levels rather than average power levels?
Matthew
Rick
Best 2017 Induction Cooktops
http://inductioncooktopreviews.net/
The mfr can verify whether their cook top pulses ON-OFF or has continuously variable power.
On setting 3.0 out of 10 (settings are 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0 ), power cycles evenly from 0 up to 625 watts every 15 seconds. So, watts are 7, 7, 100, 150, 200, 260, 320, 380, 440, 500, 580, 640, 200, 7, 7 in ~ 1 sec steps (edited 7/22)) as reported by the killa watt. 3.0 is good for cooking onions, grilled cheese, and similar--turn down to 2.5 about halfway through. Not trying to provide a cooking lesson, just some comparative info. Today, a grilled cheese took 7 minutes and used 40 watt hours. Call it 300 watts continuous. Rarely go over 5.0 and that is briefly to get a sauce going before turning right back. Yes, a better power meter would be nice, some graphs, yes, yes.
We also have a Max Burton 6000. As I recall, the Max just cycles on and off full power. Both these units were bought to try out induction prior to purchasing a real top.
EDIT 7/23. The above is for an 10" fry pan. With a 12" pan the power use was higher. The 9100 MC is on "heat" and again set to 3.0. I am guessing that more magnetic stainless in the induction field accepts more power with the larger pan. 12" pan used 300 watt hours over 40 minutes, and the peak watts was ~ 740 watts. Interesting.
It was around $100 with a pan.
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