The outback fm80 can hold 1,380W at 24v system?

giovi
giovi Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
Hello, I have 6 solar panels of 260W connected in parallel series, 2 groups of 3 plates each connected to an Outback fm80. The 6 panels must produce 1,560W. Now buy 3 more panels of 260W, it is possible that the controller can support the 9 panels of 260W = 1.380W??
The system is at 24 volts.

Comments

  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So you want to run 9 - 260 watt panels or 9x260=2340 watts on the FM80?

    2340 watts ÷ 29 amps(charging voltage for a 24 volt system) =  just over 80 amps output.

    In general panels put out closer to their NOCT value (Normal Operating Cell Temperature) which runs 75% of it's panel rating. 

    I understand that Outback recommends 2000 watt max for the FM80, I do wonder if the people there have ever used a charge controller in the real world...lol. It's rare for a charge controller to ever be maxed out, perhaps a couple times a year with a properly setup system. If you are 'over paneled' the charge controller is rarely asked to deliver a full capacity charge because the sun rarely jumps out of the sky and hits the panels all at once. Rather the sun rises and the panels start the charging. On most days they charge enough before solar noon to the point that the batteries are already excepting less current from the charge controller.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • giovi
    giovi Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
    Yes I want to run nine 260w panels.
  • Estragon
    Estragon Registered Users Posts: 4,496 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Climate and location are also factors IMHO.  For example, a cold, breezy, high altitude spot probably shouldn't be overpanelled to the same extent as a hot, steamy, seaside location.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    I would guess that Giovi is located in Puerto Rico...

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • giovi
    giovi Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
    I'm in Puerto and here it's summer all year. In fact, already install the 3 new panels. the 9 panels are generating 2,144 Watts.
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
    giovi said:
    I'm in Puerto and here it's summer all year. In fact, already install the 3 new panels. the 9 panels are generating 2,144 Watts.
    What's your output? Are you running an air conditioner or other heavy load so that your batteries aren't fully charged?

    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • giovi
    giovi Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
    It was just a test, the batteries were already on float, and my outback registered max Watts of 2,144W. The whole house is connected. The refrigerator, a small freezer, the microwave, the pool pump , the fish tank, the garage door, all house.
  • Tecnodave
    Tecnodave Registered Users Posts: 437 ✭✭✭✭
    Giovi,

    You can over panel charge controllers to a point but there is a trade off.......the controller will run hotter ...and be less efficient because the voltage in will rise as all that power is not needed. If you have good performance with 6 panels and the batteries are receiving full charge then the only thing you will accomplish is the batteries will be charged earlier in the day but at the expense of rising input voltages due to not needing that extra power. The extra power is wasted and the controller will run hotter.....heat is the arch enemy of electronics gear.  A stereo power amplifier will not last long long with the volume turned all thy way up........same,same for the solar controller.....life will be reduced.
    david...
    2 Classic 150, 2 Kid, 5 arrays 7.5 kw total  2ea.  2S6P Sharp NE-170/NE-165, 1ea. 12P Sanyo HIT 200,  2ea. 4/6P Sanyo HIT 200, MagnaSine MS4024AE, Exeltech XP-1100,  2 Banks L-16 battery, Rolls-Surette S-530 and Interstate Traction, Shunts with whizbangJr and Bogart Tri-Metric, iCharger i208B  dc-dc buck/boost converter with BMS for small form lithium 8S 16650 or LiFePO4,
  • giovi
    giovi Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
    Yes, it is very true Tecnodave. The only problem I had was that when I connected certain loads, I lowered the voltage of the batteries and came out of the floating stage.
    I was considering leaving the last panels aside and using them only on cloudy days or installing another controller.
  • Tecnodave
    Tecnodave Registered Users Posts: 437 ✭✭✭✭
    I would consider that to be normal to drop back to absorb occasionally.  But if you are not keeping up with your daily loads then expanding is the next step.  I have multiple arrays which are switchable due to the fact that I am on the left edge (Left Coast a few miles from that big pond...the Pacific Ocean).  and expereince rapidly changing weather. We have a winter storm coming in with 200% of the average monthly rainfall for the month of May. I will be using a whopping 150% overloading of my Classic's to get enough power to run the next ten days.......3600 watts in to classic rated nominally rated for 2400 watts @ 24 volt battery. But I will be aware of the weather and ready to switch out arrays if the sun pokes through the clouds.  I'm very hands on, haven't run the generator in years to charge batteries, just big welding and power hungry things
    2 Classic 150, 2 Kid, 5 arrays 7.5 kw total  2ea.  2S6P Sharp NE-170/NE-165, 1ea. 12P Sanyo HIT 200,  2ea. 4/6P Sanyo HIT 200, MagnaSine MS4024AE, Exeltech XP-1100,  2 Banks L-16 battery, Rolls-Surette S-530 and Interstate Traction, Shunts with whizbangJr and Bogart Tri-Metric, iCharger i208B  dc-dc buck/boost converter with BMS for small form lithium 8S 16650 or LiFePO4,
  • petertearai
    petertearai Solar Expert Posts: 471 ✭✭✭✭
    I have 2200 watts on an fm80  24 volts .. and as previously said very rarely will it go over max .  
    The specs for the fm80 seem to have been reduced by outback .  When i bought mine it was 1250 watts at 12 volts and 2500 watts at 24.
    2225 wattts pv . Outback 2kw  fxr pure sine inverter . fm80 charge controller . Mate 3. victron battery monitor . 24 volts  in 2 volt Shoto lead carbon extreme batterys. off grid  holiday home 
  • giovi
    giovi Registered Users Posts: 20 ✭✭
    Peter, you had problems with the charger? Is not it overheated or lying down?
  • petertearai
    petertearai Solar Expert Posts: 471 ✭✭✭✭
    its had  2200 watts on it for  3 years now , no issues . It is  maybe 8 years old now. 
    2225 wattts pv . Outback 2kw  fxr pure sine inverter . fm80 charge controller . Mate 3. victron battery monitor . 24 volts  in 2 volt Shoto lead carbon extreme batterys. off grid  holiday home