More filters?

rp3703 · July 2018

So we finally got our lake water system set up this season but were only able to use it for a few weeks before we had to shut everything down and evacuate due to an approaching forest fire. The system consists of a 1 HP submersible water pump that directly fills a 32 gallon pressure tank. From there it goes through a 50 micron sediment filter, a 1 micron paper filter and then through a charcoal filter. After that, the water runs up through a 3' long UV sterilizer and into the cabin. The only plumbing fixtures are a shower, bathroom sink and kitchen sink. We still use outhouses and everybody's fine with that. The system worked fine. Water pressure was good and the taste and smell of the water was decent.

When we removed the filters to shut the cabin down for the season and get the hell out of there, the 1 micron filter was completely brown after three weeks of use with 7 people staying in the cabin. I'm sure this is to be expected sucking in lake water but I am just a bit concerned that maybe we need to add a stage or two more, prior to the pressure tank to both do a better job of filtering as well as make the filters last longer. I'm fine with replacing them every season but this filter needed to be replaced now and we were planning to stay another week had we not been evacuated. Just wondering what others do to filter their lake water.

BB. · July 2018

Perhaps the shower and bathroom sink {and kitchen sink+water heater?) water can bypass the1 micron filter?

Kitchen sink have second faucet for cooking and rinse water?

Bill

peakbaggger · July 2018

On industrial applications I use an auto backflush filter, Unfortunately I dont know if anyone makes a similar house hold unit.

There are couple of companies but this is one I see fairly often http://www.orival.com/

westbranch · July 2018

yikes, those must use kWh's every minute.... but they do mention screen filters in the Irrigation Section/ Source Water.... near the end of the section

mike95490 · July 2018

I use several filters,

a disk filter after the pond pump

water goes into an aeration tank (3,000 gal)

through a gravel roughing filter

a slow sand filter @ 7gph (now it's potable)

into a 1500 gal holding tank with a triple O ozone filter

water in that tank is pretty much crystal clear

Beware the UV sterilizer. The tube takes 60-90 sec to come to full output, so the first slug of water through it may not be potable

rp3703 · July 2018

The first filter stage in our system has a valve at the bottom for flushing. Maybe I just need to add one or two more before the water hits the paper filter and flush them every week or so.

Just filtering the kitchen sink would be fine but we brush our teeth at the bathroom sink. After that you’re only left with the shower. Plus, we need to gravity drain the water lines every time we close shop for the season. Right now they are all plumbed to run down hill. Don’t want to refigure that out.

I like the gravel and sand filter idea but I need water faster than 7GPH.

The UV light stays on the entire time we are there, so water should be good as soon as it passes through.

rp3703 · July 2018

In case anyone comes to this thread looking for the same info as I was. Russo makes a flushable 30 micron filter. I think I will place this after the 50 micron spin down I already have. I would think installing a valve on the inlet, shutting it off and opening the flush valve would force clean pressurized water already in the water lines backwards through the filter and out through the clean out. I think I’ll also throw a 50 micron before the pressure tank.

Estragon · July 2018

It seems to me that in planning a water remediation system, one should start by identifying exactly what it is that needs remediation. The local health authority may know of issues generally affecting the area, and may be able to facilitate testing of your specific location.

rp3703 · July 2018

We planned to test the water as well but ran out of time. Many other cottage dwellers on the same lake are drinking the water after running it through the same two stage filter and UV, so I'm not too worried about water quality. My concern is increasing filter life to at least a full season.

Estragon · July 2018

FWIW, my smallest micron paper filter, used only on a drinking/dish rinsing tap often needs changing at least once over the summer. I also have a ceramic downsteam of it which generally needs to be cleaned a couple times to keep good flow.

There's a larger, whole-house size with a 50 micron on the main line (everything except toilet) that I normally only have to change once per season. It's been getting clogged faster recently though, so my to-do list for today includes diving the submersible to see if it's moved or something to cause it to suck mud. Maybe you have a similar issue?

I think you can get smaller micron filters for the bigger whole house type housings. A bigger filter should last longer?

rp3703 · July 2018

Unfortunately, our only option this year, since the water was so low was to place the pump about 75' off shore in about 7' of water. What's the flow rate on your ceramic?

Estragon · July 2018

My guess is the ceramic + paper + carbon flow to the little drinking tap starts out at ~ 1-2gpm, then gradually drops. Good for a drinking water tap, but probably not enough for a decent shower. When it takes ~1 min to fill my 750ml water bottle, I know I've put off cleaning the ceramic too long

mike95490 · July 2018

rp3703 said:

......I like the gravel and sand filter idea but I need water faster than 7GPH......

That's why it feeds a 1500 gal storage tank.

More filters?

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