Flexible vs Non-Flexible Panels?

In times past... Flex panels were about 1/2 as efficient at glass+crystalline silicon solar panels--So you would need 2x the surface area of flex for the same amount of power. For ground mounted arrays with "unlimited" area, that is not a problem (other than 2x more money for racking and wiring a 2x larger array). For RV applications with little roof space, collection efficiency would usually win out.

Renology panel 39.5"x 39" / 150 W = 10.3 sq inch per Watt
Cynergy panel 46.5" x 21.3" / 120 W 8.3 sq inch per Watt
SolarWorld SW-275 Mono 4.0 65.95" x 39.4" / 275 Watt = 9.4sq inches per Watt

The Cynergy is not the traditional "thin film" panel (low efficiency) but is a mono-crystalline panel with very thin crystalline solar cells that are "flexible" because the are sliced so think (my guess).

So, from an efficiency point of view--The Cynergy are the most efficient. And only has a 1 year warranty (at least the Ebay site I found). Also, these panels are probably much more susceptible to damage from sharp objects (thin plastic vs 1/8" tempered glass). A typical glass panel will have 20+ year warranty (other flex panels seem to have 5-10 year warranties). Of course, at $1 per Watt, you may be doing your own warranty costs (who knows if any solar company will be around 20+ years these days).

I don't know if the panels you are looking at are "frameless" or not... The frameless flex panels are (I think) supposed to be mounted on a solid surface (boat deck/roof, etc.). So, that would make mounting a bit more of a problem.

Also note, it is not really the weight of the two panels that you should worry about for your racking--Both are similar square inches--And it is wind loading that you need to design for. You should be designing for 40 to >100 lbs per square foot (snow/wind loading). Your panels are around 7 sq feet, meaning that 280 to >700 lbs from environmental loading per panel.

Light weight plastic pipe racking may blow over in a major wind storm (unless you are looking a much heavier PCV pipes). Again, a guess on my part--I do not know your specific plans.

-Bill

The large Solar World panel was just a handy/relatively efficient panel that I figure out the sq inch per Watt for a relative figure of merit.

I agree that glass and framed solar panels are a real pain to move around. And, unless you mount them to the roof of your RV and/or make a folding "roof porch/awning" that is fixed to your RV (and in hot locations, you probably want to park under shade/trees) the lighter weight panels may be the better/only option.

You can go with the frameless versions--But those run the risk of folding/creasing on you--So you made need to make a frame/carrying/racking to hold them safely anyway--Which may end up just being as much trouble as framed units anyway.

When moving solar panels daily/weekly for trips--If they last a few years without something happening (blown down in wind, dropped, dragged behind RV as you drive away, stolen, etc.)--You should probably count yourself lucky and more careful than I.

-Bill

For the wiring--I would suggest that you tape/bundle tie the cables on the side pieces next to where they enter the panel. The run from the panel to the end piece is pretty long--Easy to snag when moving around.

Does your inverter have a fan? If there is no fan, I would suggest that inverter be mounted "vertically on a wall" for convection to help move air (hot air rising). If the inverter has a fan, then would be less of a need to worry about mounting (always make sure you have good air circulation--Don't mount in a small cabinet. It will overheat).

Are you thinking of putting in a that plastic box? If so, that will restrict airflow and run the the risk of overheating and fire (setting the plastic box on fire). For electrical installations, you should always look at what is under your system components. You do not want them mounted over flammable materials (cardboard boxes, carpet, etc.). A metal shelf underneath and sheet rock behind is not a bad idea for a cabin/home.

-Bill