Help design my solar system for living fulltime in a travel trailer
Comments
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vtMaps
Thanks for the info on the 120vac bathroom fans. I never paid much attention to them even though I have replaced more than I can remember.
I was thinking of just using a small 24v to 12v converter to power the two fans I can only find in 12v. Which would give me some flexibility.
Good idea about the power supplies too.
Thanks for the comments. I was beginning to think BB was the only one reading my posts -
I would not use a Classic in a RV, if I was going to occupy it in the daytime, the cooling fanS are loud little screamers. If you can use the KID (lower amps , no fan) or the Morningstar MPPT 60 (it has webserver built in for easy monitoring) I would use that.
Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Mike95490
I see you own both midnite & mormingstar controllers. I appreciate the warning on the noisy midnite fan. After more thinking & research I will probably stick with the Morningstar. I think it will last longer under rough rv conditions & be silent in operation. -
How is this project going?
Did you solve the vent fan?
24v or 12v
I am in the same boat(camper) you are in and may copy you set up. -
Capt_Kirk
I'm going to use the Ventline Northern Breeze vent fan. Its 12v and draws 1amp (factory specs). So I'm just going to use a small 24vdc to 12vdc converter. Almost forgot about the bathroom fan, its also 12v and draws 1.5amps. I chose these fans because I want something that is easy to find when time comes to replace/repair them.
Hope that helps your decision -
It turns out, I can put together a 24v system slightly cheaper than a 12v system. So now I'm thinking about this:
• 4- trojan t-105 batteries wired in series for 225AH @ 24v
• 4- solarworld 275watt sunmodules (1,100w total) wired 2 strings of 2
Specs are: voc 39.4 isc 9.58
• Morningstar ts-mppt 60A controller
• Morningstar ts-rm-2 remote meter
• cotek 1500w 24vdc to 120vac inverter
What do you guys think?
Am I on the right track here?
Anyone have an opinion on the morningstar vs trimetric meters? -
Any opinions on solar panel frames? Are black frames ok? I'm afraid they will get hotter than panels with raw aluminum frames. I might paint them white if it will make a difference.
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kevin85 said:Any opinions on solar panel frames? Are black frames ok? I'm afraid they will get hotter than panels with raw aluminum frames. I might paint them white if it will make a difference.
4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
That's kind of what I figured. I will probably paint them white if I can't get them in plain aluminum
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Remember to check the warranty... I don't remember for sure, but I thought that may violate the warranty.
I am not sure I would pay "extra money" for clear anodized aluminum frames (not sure if you would "notice" or could measure the power losses from black frames. There is very little frame exposed to sun in the middle of the day--The side of the frames (larger surface area) get more sun in morning/evening times with the sun at a low angle.
Most large installations for residential use black frames (at least in our area).
-Bill
Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
BB
You're probably right about the warranty. And I'm probably just over thinking it as usual. I agree I would not pay more for the clear frames.
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