Charging a 120V DC battery bank

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I know, it's a quite unpopular topic and so much has been written on it. This however is my version.

So a friend approaches me to help with his own inverter system. He's got one of those funny 120V DC inverters looking like a safe powered by a 120V 200Ah bank (pun intended). He wants to go green and opted for solar. I have been trying to use a single CC but seems I might fail in that quest as I can't lay my hands on a capable CC of repute. I have considered using two Midnites and the "follow-me" feature. I can't import Midnites in time to meet the project deadline. My options are restricted to the EP Solar iTracer 60A, MorningStar 60A and (reluctantly), the Outback FM 80. I won't use more than two CC and would rather avoid the FM 80. I did see a Fangpuson 80 (FM 80 clone) too.
Semi off-grid

255W Canadian Solar × 12, 200AH 48V US 185 XC2 bank, Victron Bluesolar MPPT 150/85, Victron CCGX, Victron MultiPlus 48V/5kVA/70A inverter (primary system) Victron Phoenix 48V/375VA inverter (backup for critical loads)

300W Yingli × 2, Midnite Brat, 200AH 24V bank (powers DC LED security lights)

Comments

  • Saipro
    Saipro Solar Expert Posts: 74 ✭✭
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    I'm yet to solve the problem and I haven't been able to lay my hands on a Midnite Classic 250 KS. Prpject has been suspended but might be reviewed at any time. I want a simple solution, that's all.

    Semi off-grid

    255W Canadian Solar × 12, 200AH 48V US 185 XC2 bank, Victron Bluesolar MPPT 150/85, Victron CCGX, Victron MultiPlus 48V/5kVA/70A inverter (primary system) Victron Phoenix 48V/375VA inverter (backup for critical loads)

    300W Yingli × 2, Midnite Brat, 200AH 24V bank (powers DC LED security lights)

  • Raj174
    Raj174 Solar Expert Posts: 795 ✭✭✭✭
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    Midnite Solar may have one available, here's the contact email address. garagesale@midnitesolar.com
    4480W PV, MNE175DR-TR, MN Classic 150, Outback Radian GS4048A, Mate3, 51.2V 360AH nominal LiFePO4, Kohler Pro 5.2E genset.
  • MarkC
    MarkC Solar Expert Posts: 212 ✭✭✭
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    Saipro said:
    I know, it's a quite unpopular topic and so much has been written on it. This however is my version.

    So a friend approaches me to help with his own inverter system. He's got one of those funny 120V DC inverters looking like a safe powered by a 120V 200Ah bank (pun intended). He wants to go green and opted for solar. I have been trying to use a single CC but seems I might fail in that quest as I can't lay my hands on a capable CC of repute. I have considered using two Midnites and the "follow-me" feature. I can't import Midnites in time to meet the project deadline. My options are restricted to the EP Solar iTracer 60A, MorningStar 60A and (reluctantly), the Outback FM 80. I won't use more than two CC and would rather avoid the FM 80. I did see a Fangpuson 80 (FM 80 clone) too.
    Similar quest with similar results - could not find a Midnite KS250, which is likely OK as apparently they were not reliable.  I'm not about to stack MPPT CC's either.  Moving on.
    3850 watts - 14 - 275SW SolarWorld Panels, 4000 TL-US SMA Sunny Boy Grid tied inverter.  2760 Watts - 8 - 345XL Solar World Panels, 3000 TL-US SMA Sunny Boy GT inverter.   3000 watts SMA/SPS power.  PV "switchable" to MidNite Classic 250ks based charging of Golf cart + spare battery array of 8 - 155 AH 12V Trojans with an  APC SMT3000 - 48 volt DC=>120 Volt AC inverter for emergency off-grid.   Also, "PriUPS" backup generator with APC SURT6000/SURT003  => 192 volt DC/240 volt split phase AC inverter.  
  • boB
    boB Solar Expert Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭✭
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    Midnite 250KS's aren't  available anymore  and I would advise against it.  Actually there are still a lot of them working just fine, but...

    Using two (2) MPPT charge controllers, one on each 1/2 or 60V part of the 120V battery bank does work nicely though.  HOWEVER, you  can't tie the two negatives together.  The top half, 60V to 120V CC will have to be separate.  Also, you won't need any Follow-Me connection because the two battery halves are independent and will not necessarily be the same state of charge to go from Absorb to Float together.  This 2 CC method should actually be much better for your batteries anyway because they will stand a much better chance at not becoming unbalanced.

    Common negative RS232 communications is not as easy for the two halves of the CC's either unless you had an isolator for that BUT if you  were to use Classic CC's, they have an Ethernet connection which is already isolated via internal transformers in the RJ45 jacks.

    Each controller would need its own PV array as well.  IT would be advisable also to disconnect the internal MOV surge protectors from the top controller.  This would be true for not only the Classic controller but the Outback and probably others as well.  This is because the MOV can conduct from PV+ to chassis ground on the top controller and usually the castings/chassis of both controllers might be connected together.  Also, the internal ground fault protection will not be usable on the  top controller.

    BUT, two CC's can do a good job of handling a 120V battery bank.  I have seen it done many times, usually with the  Outback controller, many  years ago.  A lower voltage charge controller will usually  be rated for more current than a single CC like the KS that worked at 120V battery.

    boB
  • Saipro
    Saipro Solar Expert Posts: 74 ✭✭
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    Thanks Bob. Sounds like a headache. I love challenges but ..... Just like MarkC, I think I'll pass on this one - until sucha time as I encounter a scenario I can't evade.
    Semi off-grid

    255W Canadian Solar × 12, 200AH 48V US 185 XC2 bank, Victron Bluesolar MPPT 150/85, Victron CCGX, Victron MultiPlus 48V/5kVA/70A inverter (primary system) Victron Phoenix 48V/375VA inverter (backup for critical loads)

    300W Yingli × 2, Midnite Brat, 200AH 24V bank (powers DC LED security lights)