Basic advise on fuses
raymate
Registered Users Posts: 15 ✭
Hi,
New here.
Just setting up a basic system for my shed, nothing fancy 2 x 25w 12v panels going into a morning star charge controller. Going out to a very small sealed lead acid battery 9-18 amp (not got that yet) then my load will be LED lights and a 5v USB charger.
My question is about fuses, I would assume fast blow glass fuses are best but again I'm not sure. I plan on using 10 awg cable and was going to put in 3 or 5 amp inline fuses on every positive cable in the system.
Do the fuses needed to be rated for 12v system or can I use any 3 amp fast fuse, I seen people use car blade fuses are they OK, should I use a circuit breaker in a system this small.
Many thanks
New here.
Just setting up a basic system for my shed, nothing fancy 2 x 25w 12v panels going into a morning star charge controller. Going out to a very small sealed lead acid battery 9-18 amp (not got that yet) then my load will be LED lights and a 5v USB charger.
My question is about fuses, I would assume fast blow glass fuses are best but again I'm not sure. I plan on using 10 awg cable and was going to put in 3 or 5 amp inline fuses on every positive cable in the system.
Do the fuses needed to be rated for 12v system or can I use any 3 amp fast fuse, I seen people use car blade fuses are they OK, should I use a circuit breaker in a system this small.
Many thanks
Comments
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car blade fuses are rated for 32V I think, but on a 12V system, they should be OK. 10 ga wire can use a 30A fuse, if the wire is 90C rated.Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Normally, you fuse/breaker to protect the wiring... 10 AWG wiring can easily carry ~30 amps (using NEC tables).
If you have a 12 volt 9-18 AH battery--Realistically, you would expect it to support around 1-2 amps of continuous load (~8 hour discharge rate) maximum--Unless you need high amounts of current for short periods of time (like running a small pump, electric drill, etc.).
It is very good to use heavy gauge copper wiring, espeicailly if you are going to be sending 12 volts (low voltage) DC power around. On average, you can have about 0.5 volts of drop in your DC wiring and still have things work relatively well. Sending current longer distance at 12 volts becomes difficult (need very heavy copper cable to keep voltage drop low).
For a small system you are looking at--Glass fuses or even automotive fuses can work fine (I am not real thrilled with automotive fuse holders, they are not really built well and have been known to over heat even when operated well below rated current).
You may want to go with circuit breakers--Many can be use as an on/off switch--And save you the need of wiring in another switch.
A lot of times, you can find surplus breakers in local surplus electrical/electronic stores or even online:
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/circuit-protection/circuit-breaker
But, with your smallish battery--A single fuse and some on/off switches is probably good enough for your needs.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
thank you for all the replies, some great info.
Still not fully understanding the fuses, I will probably use some fast blow glass type fuses either 3 amp or 5 amp, only as I have seen some nice inline holders for them. That will be plenty for my application.
But I can only find ones rated at 250v does that matter or are they not going to work.
Forgot to say my charge controller is a 15amp ProStar so I would think it will shut things down before my 10 wag gets into a problem.
I'm also using the load out feature on the ProStar I'm not running any 12v accessories direct from the battery.
Should I ground this system, is it as easy as putting a long copper rod into the ground? -
Fuses have all sorts of ratings, Maximum interrupt voltage, AC or DC, Maximum Amps Interrupted, trip time, etc.The basic requirement is that the fuse is rated over your working voltage (in this case DC).
AC current is "easier to break" for a fuse/breaker, and the AC working voltages/interrupt current is usually higher than the DC ratings.
Your 50 Watts of solar panels have a working current of (roughly):- 50 watts / 17.5 volts Vmp = 2.85 amps
- 2.85 amps Imp * ~1.25 = 3.57 amps Isc (short circuit current)
- 1.25 * 3.57 Amps Isc = 4.64 Amps rating or ~5 Amps fuse/breaker/branch circuit wiring minimum for your 50 Watt panels.
Fuses/breaker are not really there to protect your loads, they are there to protect your wiring (not devices)... If you wired everything on the load side with a minimum of 14 AWG copper wire (good for ~15 amp rated current), you really only need the one fuse to the battery bank (and you could use use a 20 amp fuse on your Prostar--if you ever decided to add more solar panels/larger battery bank).
If you have small wiring (such as going to an LED fixture, radio, etc.), then you fuse fuse for the size wire going to that specific load.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
.....Fuses/breaker are not really there to protect your loads, they are there to protect your devices.....
I disagree, solid state devices are used to protect the fuses. Ask anyone of hundreds of users that open up their inverters to replace a "fuse" and the fuses are fine, and all the FET's are blown.
Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Oops... Intended to type fuses/breakers protect your wiring.
And as Mike typed--The silicon devices pop much faster than any fuse/breaker can. And over voltage failures for silicon are not even protected by breakers--You need surge protectors in front of your loads for that--Which do not always do a great job either.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
So in the OP's situation...should the breaker/fuse be put as close to the battery as possible to protect the 10 g wire?Off-Grid in Terlingua, TX
5,000 watt array - 14 CS 370 watt modules. HZLA horizontal tracker. Schneider: XW6048NA+, Mini PDP, MPPT 80-600, SCP. 390ah LiFeP04 battery bank - 3 Discover AES 42-48-6650 48 volt 130ah LiFePO4 batteries -
Yes, that is the "standard"--But the fuses/breakers as close as practical to the source of high current (I think I have seen 18 inches as being a marine standard).
The idea is to have as little "unprotected wiring" as possible.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
I disagree, solid state devices are used to protect the fuses. Ask anyone of hundreds of users that open up their inverters to replace a "fuse" and the fuses are fine, and all the FET's are blown.
I am not counting lightning and even with SPD's and great grounding it is not something you can reason with. Prayer is best."we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
htps://offgridsolar1.com/
E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net -
Thanks for all your replies, I just ordered a midnite baby box and 4 breakers from wind & sun 5,7,10 amps and small blade fuse box from amazon with assorted blade fuses.
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