Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

706jim
706jim Solar Expert Posts: 518 ✭✭✭✭
My system uses an 18 year old Trace C40 pwm controller.

I have my panels set up for 24 volts and these feed the charge controller via 65' of doubled up 8 guage copper wire. Nominal panel rating is 430 watts.

Would I be gaining a significant amount of power with a newer mppt controller or should the money be better spent on larger batteries?

Planning on replacing 12 GC's with 8 L16's.

(This is an off grid system with no possibility of grid hookup in the future)
Island cottage solar system with appriximately 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing due south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 31st year.

Comments

  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Well you certainly would benefit by using an MPPT CC as you could reduce line losses by changing the array to 'nominal 48V' setup and the MPPT would down convert for you
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Spend the money on Solar panels + Charge Controller first.

    Second, (really first), what are your daily loads. How is the present battery bank behaving? Are you discharging the battery bank? 25% in a day/10%/50% or what?

    12 GC batteries is not a small bank:

    3 parallel strings * ~220 AH per string = 660 AH battery bank ~ 24 VDC

    That is a good size battery bank--Not too large or too small. Would run roughly a ~3,300 Watt AC inverter (maximum) nicely.

    Solar panel wise, 5% to 13% rate of charge (20 Hour rate for battery AH capacity rules of thumbs), with 10%+ for a full time off grid system (5% can work, but with panels being so "cheap" these days, I would go 10% for a full time off grid system minimum):
    • 660 AH * 29 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.05 rate of charge = 1,243 Watt array minimum
    • 660 AH * 29 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.10 rate of charge = 2,486 Watt array nominal
    • 660 AH * 29 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.13 rate of charge = 3,231 Watt array "cost effective" maximum
    Is your present array 430 Watts? That is more on the range of a float charging array. Do you use a genset a lot?
    • 430 Watt * 0.52 AC end to end system eff * 4 hours nominal spring/fall sun = 894 Watt*Hours per day from solar
    If you went with a 2,486 Watt array:
    • 2,486 Watt * 0.52 AC sys eff * 4 hours of sun = 5,171 Watt*Hours per day from "appropriate" solar array
    Either you are way over batter'ed, or way under solar array'ed. It would seem (in my humble opinion).

    Do you monitor/log the battery specific gravity, cell/battery voltage/etc.?

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Some of this depends on exactly what the panel specifications are.

    We can predict that 430 Watts on an MPPT controller to a 24 Volt system will yield approximately 13 Amps peak current under 'typical' conditions. But we don't know the Imp of the panels so how that compares to what the PWM passes is moot.

    I can also tell you it is not sufficient current to charge a set of even the smallest L16's @ 24 Volts. They tend to start around 300 Amp hours, and 13 Amps just is not enough for those big batteries. You'd need to double the array size.
  • 706jim
    706jim Solar Expert Posts: 518 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    According to the C40 display, the most Ah I have seen would be about 80 during June and July.

    Most of the time, my electrical loads are such that 30-50 Ah would bring the 12 GC's to float.

    These batteries have lasted since 1996 but have pretty much given up the ghost as of this season. 19 seasons (6 months per year) is nothing to sneeze at.

    So, in answer to one question, I'm guessing I would normally have kept discharge to about 10% of nominal capacity give or take.

    Probably what saves the batteries is my propane fridge which I figure takes a lot of the load off of the system.

    I suppose 4 L16's could be another option but I'm aware that adding a second bank of four at a later date is not recommended.

    As to generator use, never until this year when the batteries started gassing and losing capacity. Last year, the hot tub pump was left on overnight and that probably ran them down to nothing, otherwise they may well have lasted another season or two.
    Island cottage solar system with appriximately 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing due south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 31st year.
  • CDN_VT
    CDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?
    706jim wrote: »
    Last year, the hot tub pump was left on overnight and that probably ran them down to nothing, otherwise they may well have lasted another season or two.

    HOT TUB ?? How is that heated ? ,, And your saying that the Fridge on propane is a saving power , do you also have the Hot Tub heat on propane ?

    Bush's makes a natural HT pump :-)

    VT
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Changin out the GC batteries for L16s is going to be a very expensive mistake unless you upgrade your charge regimen. The biggest mistakes folks tend to make is installing bigger batteries because thier currrent set won't supply enough load, when often the culprit is that they are chronically undercharge, so a bigg batter bank is usually a bad idea.

    Tony
  • 706jim
    706jim Solar Expert Posts: 518 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?
    CDN_VT wrote: »
    HOT TUB ?? How is that heated ? ,, And your saying that the Fridge on propane is a saving power , do you also have the Hot Tub heat on propane ?

    Bush's makes a natural HT pump :-)

    VT

    Hot tub is heated with wood.

    Replacing the fridge with an electric one will be a future option. Propane tanks for the fridge have to be carried on a boat which is becoming a PITA.

    After reading through this forum, I am now considering adding more panels to feed the 8 L16's.

    Somewhere around 1000 watts total which sounds like the minimum recommended here.

    And I DID get 19 seasons out of my 12 GC's, so must be doing something right....
    Island cottage solar system with appriximately 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing due south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 31st year.
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?
    706jim wrote: »
    Most of the time, my electrical loads are such that 30-50 Ah would bring the 12 GC's to float.

    These batteries have lasted since 1996 but have pretty much given up the ghost as of this season. 19 seasons (6 months per year) is nothing to sneeze at.

    So to get this straight: you have a 24v/ 660Ah bank of GC2s, and your daily load/demand is something like 1000Wh/day. You have 430Wp of solar.

    430Wp solar, assuming 4 sun hours, would give 3* 430 * 0.52 = 900Wh/day. So your using in the ballpark of your entire production. However the battery is as others commented on the larger side for a modern installation, but not atypical for its era, when PV was expensive.

    So, 1000Wh/d on a 16000Wh bank is a daily DOD of 6%. This would be considered virtually float service, however, given that your production is tight for your demand, you do need the extra storage to get through weather events. Even though this system doesnt adhere to our current rules of thumb, it has clearly worked and the batterys have undeniably thrived in this shallow cycling environment.

    Can you comment on how often the bank was bulk /absorb charged to float? Are we talking every few days, sort of thing? What are your charge setpoints? EQ regime? How much water have they taken at what intervals. We are always interested in understanding how banks last like yours did.

    Just so you know, now that PV is cheaper than batterys, thats why we use the model explained by Bill above. I recomend you give this some thought before you go buying anything. We now tend to use just enough battery to get through the night, and give us one extra days margin. And let the PV do the work.

    You have a few choices, but to continue with 1kWh/day loads, reducing the battery and increasing the pv will achieve the same result as have now, and be on average cheaper to implement. However things will depend somewhat on how healthy your other older exisiting gear remains, how much new BOS stuff is needed etc. If you keep the same bank size, then bills suggestion of increasing the PV to meet a 0.1C charge rate will increase the overall size of your system, to the point that it will be capable of supporting bigger loads. This might be a good time to convert to electrical refridgeration and save yourself some monew (and agravation) on the gas refilling.
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • CDN_VT
    CDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    18 year old trace & the questions are float time ? etc.

    Can't see it .

    Panels are as cheep as they can be till a correction A coming .

    Plus You want to add a huge LOAD that also will say you live or be poisoned !!! Fridge !!

    Coming off propane , (always have a BACK-UP) just 2 make sure.

    Wood heater HT , Kewl

    So measure your loads as all say here , pick a HIGH Kwh fridge & move forward . Up the voltage & add a bigger MPPT cc ( a classic over a Kid ) because you need to grow, + we / you / weather all underestimated harvest time ..

    VT


    Edit add , my best fridge is .55 KWH / day 24 hrs , my worst is 1.9 kwh /24 so there is a huge range .JFI
  • 706jim
    706jim Solar Expert Posts: 518 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Answers to some of the questions from posts # 9 and 10:

    My C40 is set to charge to 28.0 volts and float at 27.0.

    When I initially had an AMPS on/off controller, some water had to be added monthly. With the C40, water needed to be added only once a year; probably 2oz/cell.

    The batteries are now pretty much shot (cases starting to bulge, lots of corrosion on the connections that never happened before, lower capacity large voltage swings) and will need replacement.

    "Bulk" charging never really existed with a maximum sustained charging current of 13-15 amps, but the batteries typically would reach float (two hours at 28 volts at the C40) by days end at which point the Trace would limit the charge current to between 0 and 1.0 amps.

    When I originally set up the system, I purchased 7 fried Arco's from some decomissioned solar farm (in Arizona I was told) each of which generated Voc of about 5.5 volts. These 7 are in series (generate around 42 volts open circuit) and paralleled with 4-65 watt Astropowers in series parallel configuration.

    Obviously, this worked for many years but makes me reluctant to go MPPT in that in a series string, I can't imagine this collection to have similar ampere outputs. With PWM I don't think this matters as much.

    I checked out recent solar panel prices and am simply amazed at how cheap they have become compared to what I had to pay in the 90's.

    So, as suggested, I could add another two panels and get up to 1.0kw or so and maybe go with less battery. I m reluctant to have less capacity as before (660ah) and hence the thought of getting 740 Ah of L16's.

    Just this evening, I compared the energy consumption of a recently purchased Samsung french door fridge and found it to be only about 30% more than a 19 cubic foot Sunfrost. If so, it should be possible to run a newer electric fridge from my system to get away from the problems with propane.

    But after reading several times that new batteries shouldn't be added to older batteries, my biggest decision is whether or not to get 4 L16's or 8 to provide cloudy day capacity.

    While the panels are cheap, there is only so much free space on the roof.

    And one last question: Scrap the existing array described earlier or just add to it?

    (As for the hot tub, it is cedar, 6' diameter and is heated by an external stainless steel boiler similar to a Chofu, but far better quality. Could post a photo if deemed of interest)
    Island cottage solar system with appriximately 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing due south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 31st year.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Personally, I would be recommending new solar panels and a MPPT type charge controller--But, it is not my money.

    The new ~250 Watt panels compared to ~6x 40 Watt panels (or whatever), address a whole bunch of mounting and wiring improvements over those older panels.

    It can also be difficult/expensive to mix old and new panels together on older charge PWM charge controllers (Vmp+Imp need to be matched "correctly" if sharing a single controller). And the new 200+ Watt panels rarely place nice on a PWM charge controller--You really need a MPPT (expensive) type charge controller to get those large wattage panels to operate efficiently.

    You can mix old panel+PWM controller and new panels+MPPT controllers on a single battery bank just fine. But, many times is is not worth the effort to keep the old stuff working.

    Best I can say--Do several paper designs and see what will meet your needs (and bank account). It is tempting to try and go cheap on solar--But as the system grows and your power needs expand, you end up with a choice of biting the bullet now (new hardware and battery bank) or limping along on the existing system... Only you can make those choices.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    God blessed you Jim....

    Kinda wondering if you have the array size correct? 430 watts would mean a mismatched set of panels (at least 18 years ago)

    The question about batteries is a none starter, no reason to increase your battery bank size, and some reason to reduce it, as most have pointed out the array to bank size is very out of balance, but it has been working!

    I'm beginning to wonder if the 6 month system has some rejuvenating quality on batteries! Your extraordinary long life, and 'Coot's long life, I think he's going strong after 9 years. I often though his longevity might be due to the batteries chemical life being naturally slowed down over the cold winter, but perhaps there is something else at work...

    In general I expect 3-5 years from GC batteries, any thing over 5 years is a gift... 18 is a blessing!

    Guessing you could have 10-43watt panels...
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • CDN_VT
    CDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?
    706jim wrote: »
    And one last question: Scrap the existing array described earlier or just add to it?

    (As for the hot tub, it is cedar, 6' diameter and is heated by an external stainless steel boiler similar to a Chofu, but far better quality. Could post a photo if deemed of interest)


    Im with BB on this because of a battery exchange , adding of a fridge to the system , and your looking at improving / growing / adding . Time to re-address the roof , figure out how many Canadian Solar winter load panels you can mount , You don't need to to do them all at once , but is nicer , less roof time. I removed my first panels that kept the walk in cold storage lit & bilge system dry , pulling off 2 120 W panels that one 305w CS was more power for less roof area that the two 120W were. Those panels will find another use or be sold off . I started with a KID but after seeing full sun I was maxing the 30 amps out so I could harvest more in the summer , but winter grey mode here is normal on the wet coast , I changed out the kid into a classic , for the summer time . It's going to run the Pool here , (I had a HT but only the dog & myself used it, wife likes cool water to swim [NOT ME] ;) )

    I bought my panels in bulk & crated pallets , when I need to expand , I have matching spares & im sure you'll never broker a bargain at under a dollar less per watt .
    Since being close to 10 golf course's , these clubs buy new battery's every year for there carts , the 2014 battey's just pulled cost me core value & I do find a dud some times , this is due to NO water because they really don't do maintenance . I fill them over the plates , & then let my chargers have at them for a week , recheck the level & then do a hard load test on them , recharge with a fancy charger & then run tests . I have 2 duds out of LOTS & there still worth core ! JFYI & where to find deals , white ball wackers go crackers if their rented cart makes them walk on the BIG green & blue ball.

    Take an extension cord & a Kill-a-watt in & check appliances / tvs etc. If they don't allow ,buy elsewhere as I have ..

    You still use propane for cooking ?

    VT
  • 706jim
    706jim Solar Expert Posts: 518 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Wow, sure learned lots in the last few days! I never heard of Canadian Solar panels, but now can see how much cheaper panels have become. From what I can see, I should be able to replace what I have with somewhere between 1000 and 1500 watts for around $1000-$1200 plus shipping and still have space on the roof. Groups of two or three panels would still be in a liftable weight range as compared to a monster single array.
    My existing pwm controller would still work with an Outback mppt for a future upgrade. I should still be able to get maybe 75% efficient battery charging due to my 24 volt battery configuration (not as much loss as those trying to charge 12 volt banks with ppm).
    One definite advantage I can see with the mppt would be the supply voltage from the panels. In future, I could put the two array groups in series to boost Voc to around 60 and drop this down to 24 volts at the batteries. This would reduce losses in my supply line which is doubled up 8 gauge (giving me 6 guage equivlent) but about 65' to the batteries from the panels.
    In any case (I'm still leaning towards 8 L16's) I can't see any damage occurring to the batteries even with my exisitng array so long as I can keep them charged to float.
    As always, it comes down to buying what I can afford, bit by bit.

    Thanks all to your suggestions and advice!
    Island cottage solar system with appriximately 2500 watts of panels, 1kw facing southeast 1.3kw facing southwest 170watt ancient Arco's facing due south. All panels in parallel for a 24 volt system. Trace DR1524 MSW inverter which has performed flawlessly since 1994. Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT charge controller four 467A-h AGM batteries. Insignia 11.5 cubic foot electric fridge 1/4hp GSW piston pump. My 31st year.
  • CDN_VT
    CDN_VT Solar Expert Posts: 492 ✭✭✭
    Re: Charge contoller replacement needed or a luxury?

    Look here : http://www.midnitesolar.com/
    Shop price here : http://www.solar-electric.com/inverters-controllers-accessories/chco/misoclchco.html

    Use the sizing tool from midnight , & here is Canuk panels made in China , from Taiwan cells , Canadian aluminum , Dow Corning silicone :http://www.canadiansolar.com/product_pro_detail.aspx?id=42

    Less duty . I used a CC # that Canadian solar will issue .

    I had better vibes from the midnight bunch of the outback bunch on meeting them .

    YMMV
    VT