Thoughts on my 48v Off-Grid Setup

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  • Alaska Man
    Alaska Man Solar Expert Posts: 252 ✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup

    *Reminder*

    If you are going to be off-grid, you will need a generator too........ especially if you are building.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    googdot wrote: »
    I understand what you mean about wasting battery dollars, but what happens if the peak charge rate is greater than 15% on the smaller batteries? Couldn't this happen on a nice bright day in the middle of summer when efficiency could be more than 77%? And is 9.5% on the CR-350 really too low? And what, on the odd occasion, I go over 50% DOD?

    I guess the ultimate question here is do you want an average DOD of around 25%? Or is closer to a 50% average the DOD price 'sweetspot'? (as noted on the battery FAQ's)

    If the charge rate is over 15% you're basically using PV to heat the batteries; charge acceptance will be much lower the higher you go (actual performance depends on the particular batteries of course). But a good charge controller like the Classic can limit the maximum current, so the 'extra' is only used on days when the sun is being uncooperative.

    <10% peak rate is okay unless the concurrent loads bring the total down to where you can't recharge in enough time. This usually isn't a problem. We target 10% but don't demand it.

    An occasional dip to 50% SOC (or even lower) won't kill the batteries right away. Habitual deeper discharged reduces the cycle life. On average around 25% DOD works out to the best value for the batteries; less discharge is almost identical life but without as much realized power. (Note this applies to basic lead-acid batteries and not AGM's or forklift types.)
    Another thing to note: When I use the PVWatts Calculator for my area and the four 260W panels, during the lowest month the solar radiation is still 2.69kWh/m²/day or 69kWh AC, which is really good considering my usage is well below 50% of the potential harvest even in the winter months. So maybe I don't need to worry too much autonomy?

    PV Watts is really for GT systems but it does give you an indication of what insolation you may expect and properly interpreted will tell you how likely your off-grid system is to work. The thing is an off-grid system has to have at least some of the power stored in and taken from the batteries, which reduces efficiency. So the numbers may be good for a GT system but if the loads are heavy at night (no sun hours, as is often the case) then it's not so good.

    I don't think you meant "69 kW hours AC". Six point nine maybe. That would indicate a lot of daylight, like 8 hours. Normally you'd plan for a worst-case scenario like this: 1040 Watts of array * hours of equivalent good sun (usually 4) * 52% over-all efficiency. So those numbers come out around 2.1 kW hours AC per day which is just about what you need. If your daylight is longer, all the better. If your system efficiency is greater (as in load use after batteries are charged but panels still producing), all the better.

    On the whole it looks like your system is going to work fine. :D
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    googdot wrote: »
    I'm still going with the Classic 150 as it allows me room for adding panels in the future if need be.

    If your sure about upgrading then that works. But its not usually a good idea to run mmpt controllers under half their rated capacity because of the tare losses.
    If my calculations are correct, at 24V the 50% DOD capacities would be: CR-225 2700Wh, US2200 2784Wh, and the CR-350 4200Wh. So as you said, the CR-350 would have 1.5kWh greater capacity than the CR-225.

    If my usage is 2kWh/day on average, then I would looking at be these numbers: CR-225 37% DOD, US2200 36% DOD, CR-350 24% DOD.

    With the four 260 Watt panels at 77% efficiency, the peak charge rate would be about 14-15% on the CR-225 and US2200, and about 9.5% on the CR-350.

    I understand what you mean about wasting battery dollars, but what happens if the peak charge rate is greater than 15% on the smaller batteries? Couldn't this happen on a nice bright day in the middle of summer when efficiency could be more than 77%? And is 9.5% on the CR-350 really too low? And what, on the odd occasion, I go over 50% DOD?

    9.5% is close enough for government work mate. 0.15C for flooded is a little high. Remember these are rules of thumb, that yeild balanced systems. The lower the C rate the less pv you have the longer they charge, the deeper they cycle, the less chance fo a recharge in a weather clearing. Everything is connected. 77% is just another rule of thumb. Generally youd account 90% controller efficiency, maybe 5% BOS losses, so i guess the remaining 8% is airmass/angle of incidence/hot panels. Sure on a nice breezy day, bang on the equinox, those 8% will go away. Sure, max charge current only occurs for a briefish period prior to entering absorb. Sure, depending on your design, that might not even occur at noon. All of that can be modelled using daily weather data. But the 77% nominal charge effciency / 0.1C charge rate / 25% DOD rules takes care of most of all that for you, and still contains a bunch of fudge factors that give you some leeway.
    I guess the ultimate question here is do you want an average DOD of around 25%? Or is closer to a 50% average the DOD price 'sweetspot'? (as noted on the battery FAQ's)

    The idea of the 25% DOD rule, is that a typical day with better than "average" insolation, and a typcial nights loads yeilds 25% DOD. That allows for a worst case single day of zero insolation, or two or three days of marginal insolation, either of which gets you to 50%. We also assume that all your loads come from the battery, even though day time loads come from solar direct, thats one of the fudge factors.
    Another thing to note: When I use the PVWatts Calculator for my area and the four 260W panels, during the lowest month the solar radiation is still 2.69kWh/m²/day or 69kWh AC, which is really good considering my usage is well below 50% of the potential harvest even in the winter months. So maybe I don't need to worry too much autonomy?

    Those figures are averages. So 2.7 sun hours in the winteryest month, just means thats the average for that month. Thus there will be higher and lower days. How low depends on the climate there. If you download a daily insolation dataset, you can then start to get an idea about the spread/std dev if you want. But as i said the rules generally work out ok.

    Heres my daily insolation at 40 degs latitude.
    Attachment not found.

    Means and std devs aside, there are always outlier events. And it should be mentioned that the 25% rule generally means you need a genset to cover the outlier events. In milder climates say within 35 degrees of the equator and going with more like 80-90% SOC you can avoid gensets altogether, at the cost of faster battery aging from grid corosion. Age kills the battery either way, so we figure you may as well use them.
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • googdot
    googdot Registered Users Posts: 18
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    Alaska Man wrote: »
    *Reminder*

    If you are going to be off-grid, you will need a generator too........ especially if you are building.

    Yes, agreed. And we'll have one as backup. But of course we'd all like our systems to run generator free if possible.
    If the charge rate is over 15% you're basically using PV to heat the batteries; charge acceptance will be much lower the higher you go (actual performance depends on the particular batteries of course). But a good charge controller like the Classic can limit the maximum current, so the 'extra' is only used on days when the sun is being uncooperative.

    <10% peak rate is okay unless the concurrent loads bring the total down to where you can't recharge in enough time. This usually isn't a problem. We target 10% but don't demand it.

    An occasional dip to 50% SOC (or even lower) won't kill the batteries right away. Habitual deeper discharged reduces the cycle life. On average around 25% DOD works out to the best value for the batteries; less discharge is almost identical life but without as much realized power. (Note this applies to basic lead-acid batteries and not AGM's or forklift types.)



    PV Watts is really for GT systems but it does give you an indication of what insolation you may expect and properly interpreted will tell you how likely your off-grid system is to work. The thing is an off-grid system has to have at least some of the power stored in and taken from the batteries, which reduces efficiency. So the numbers may be good for a GT system but if the loads are heavy at night (no sun hours, as is often the case) then it's not so good.

    I don't think you meant "69 kW hours AC". Six point nine maybe. That would indicate a lot of daylight, like 8 hours. Normally you'd plan for a worst-case scenario like this: 1040 Watts of array * hours of equivalent good sun (usually 4) * 52% over-all efficiency. So those numbers come out around 2.1 kW hours AC per day which is just about what you need. If your daylight is longer, all the better. If your system efficiency is greater (as in load use after batteries are charged but panels still producing), all the better.

    On the whole it looks like your system is going to work fine. :D

    Thanks for the reply and info. I think I'll stick with the US2200's for my first go until I can start to measure actual inputs and outputs. Those should be fine, at least for the first couple of years.
    zoneblue wrote: »
    If your sure about upgrading then that works. But its not usually a good idea to run mmpt controllers under half their rated capacity because of the tare losses.

    I researched the Classic and it's nighttime draw is somewhere around 4-6W from what I read. I can live with that given the system will likely have a couple of panels added in two years time. If I go with the KID, I would have to add another one once I add the extra panels, so I figured getting the Classic from the start is the right way to go. Out of curiosity, have you measured your Classic? What does it draw at idle?
    9.5% is close enough for government work mate. 0.15C for flooded is a little high. Remember these are rules of thumb, that yeild balanced systems. The lower the C rate the less pv you have the longer they charge, the deeper they cycle, the less chance fo a recharge in a weather clearing. Everything is connected. 77% is just another rule of thumb. Generally youd account 90% controller efficiency, maybe 5% BOS losses, so i guess the remaining 8% is airmass/angle of incidence/hot panels. Sure on a nice breezy day, bang on the equinox, those 8% will go away. Sure, max charge current only occurs for a briefish period prior to entering absorb. Sure, depending on your design, that might not even occur at noon. All of that can be modelled using daily weather data. But the 77% nominal charge effciency / 0.1C charge rate / 25% DOD rules takes care of most of all that for you, and still contains a bunch of fudge factors that give you some leeway.



    The idea of the 25% DOD rule, is that a typical day with better than "average" insolation, and a typcial nights loads yeilds 25% DOD. That allows for a worst case single day of zero insolation, or two or three days of marginal insolation, either of which gets you to 50%. We also assume that all your loads come from the battery, even though day time loads come from solar direct, thats one of the fudge factors.



    Those figures are averages. So 2.7 sun hours in the winteryest month, just means thats the average for that month. Thus there will be higher and lower days. How low depends on the climate there. If you download a daily insolation dataset, you can then start to get an idea about the spread/std dev if you want. But as i said the rules generally work out ok.

    Heres my daily insolation at 40 degs latitude.
    Attachment not found.

    Means and std devs aside, there are always outlier events. And it should be mentioned that the 25% rule generally means you need a genset to cover the outlier events. In milder climates say within 35 degrees of the equator and going with more like 80-90% SOC you can avoid gensets altogether, at the cost of faster battery aging from grid corosion. Age kills the battery either way, so we figure you may as well use them.

    Thanks for all the useful info. I'll be 35 degs latitude, and your comment regarding 'Age kills the battery either way, so we figure you may as well use them" makes lots of sense. So you think I'm on the right track going with the smaller-sized battery bank to start, and see how it goes?
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    zoneblue wrote: »
    . Remember these are rules of thumb, that yeild balanced systems. The lower the C rate the less pv you have the longer they charge, the deeper they cycle, the less chance fo a recharge in a weather clearing. Everything is connected. 77% is just another rule of thumb.

    Actually it's more an 'off the top' sort of thing, a 100 watt panel will have a 'normal' production of roughly 77% (NOCT - Normal Operating Cell Temperature) Panels are uniformly 'flash tested' but when left in the sun the heat up and the amount of power available is reduced. It has always been in the panels information as a percent reduction for a degree above a set point (25 degrees C?) So normally, in the Spring Fall and winter they produce less than the panel rating. How much less? It runs about 77% on average for mono and poly panels, I think actually a bit higher for amorphous(?) panels.

    More and more often these days the NOCT value, here is an example were they spell it out clearly giving a panel rating in wattage at NOCT.

    So you purchase a 190 watt panel but at temperature it produces 139 watts or about 73% in this case. In the cold, clear days of winter they can produce their panel rating and even more, but usually that is more than offset by shorter days.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    googdot wrote: »
    I researched the Classic and it's nighttime draw is somewhere around 4-6W from what I read. I can live with that given the system will likely have a couple of panels added in two years time. If I go with the KID, I would have to add another one once I add the extra panels, so I figured getting the Classic from the start is the right way to go. Out of curiosity, have you measured your Classic? What does it draw at idle?

    I have, it is exactly 3W. Thats for the lite with ethernet connected. It will be slightly less without the live LAN link, however a full classic has two additional processors, one for the MNGP, and one for arc fault.
    Thanks for all the useful info. I'll be 35 degs latitude, and your comment regarding 'Age kills the battery either way, so we figure you may as well use them" makes lots of sense. So you think I'm on the right track going with the smaller-sized battery bank to start, and see how it goes?

    Learner banks are great. When youre done with them, if things have gone well, sell them, give away to a newbie, or use them in an outdoor pizza oven area or something! Use your imagination...
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • googdot
    googdot Registered Users Posts: 18
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    On the whole it looks like your system is going to work fine. :D

    I had some further thoughts on the system last night after reading through a number of posts and thinking through Coot's previous comments, and want to see what you guys think. What if I started things out a bit smaller, but still left room for expansion later?

    Starting with something like this at 24V:

    - 3x 260W panels in a 3x1 setup (Vmp 30.7, Imp 8.5, Voc 37.8, Isc 9.01)

    - Midnite KID Controller

    - 4x US2200 6v 232ah

    - Outback FX2024ET or VFX3024E

    This would lower my peak charge rate to around 11% which is more ideal, and effectively max out the KID's capabilities. In the future when my usage needs increase, I could then look at adding another 2-3 panels and an additional KID to control them (and this way the panels could be different make/model as well). I would also re-evaluate my battery bank capacity at that time after going through the first starter set.

    Thoughts on this setup vs. the four panel & Classic?
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup

    You run into an immediate problem: three of the panels would have to be all in parallel, and that means the array Vmp would be 30.7 which is too low to properly charge a 24 Volt system. It simply won't work.
  • googdot
    googdot Registered Users Posts: 18
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    You run into an immediate problem: three of the panels would have to be all in parallel, and that means the array Vmp would be 30.7 which is too low to properly charge a 24 Volt system. It simply won't work.

    I came up with that in the middle of night (solar dreams) and knew I was missing something - thanks. So I need to have four panels to run at 24V, which is too much for the KID to handle, hence the need to upgrade to the Classic. And if I reduce the number of panels to only two to start with and a KID, I'm only going to have a peak charge rate of about 7%, which I assume is a bit too low.

    So I guess it's better to stick with the four panels, Classic, US2200's and the 14% charge rate for the first go.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup

    If the plan is to expand you don't want to build limitations in at the start! :D
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup

    Growing a system is often fraught with difficulty. With PV thats usually about trying to find matching panels. With batterys, while theres a better chance of gettting identical units, you dont want to mix batterys of differing ages. Inverter and charge controller replacement is generally not without cost too. SO unless you have a project in mind for the parts that get upgraded, sometimes a better way to build a staged system is to start with genset, then add batterys and inverter, then add pv and charge controller last. But you wouldnt want toooooo much time to pass otherwise running the gen will get tiresome.

    Other than budget, the other common impetus for staging, is when your expected demand is uncertain. I dont think theres really a way around that but making the best estimate you can. Gettign it wrong will incur a cost penalty no matter how you look at it.

    As for two kids, v one classic well. Thats:

    - us$610 v $570, a draw
    - 94Amps v 60Amps, classic wins
    - 5W v 1W tare, the kid wins there.
    - classic has better monitoring v none at present, partial later in the kid
    - no real advantage either way with mixed pv strings, unless the second array is dramatically different.

    Go with a lite and the divide opens up more substantially. Wins on price, capacity, monitoring and the tare is then 3W v 1W.

    I dont think anyone regrets buying too much pv. Too much inverter yes, too much battery yes.

    BTW that last plan of yours doenst have enough battery to support the big inverter. For flooded youll want 200Ah of battery per kW of inverter. Other than surge /sag etc, you have to account for the inverter tare.

    Remeber, loads are the anchor.
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    zoneblue wrote: »
    For flooded cell battery bank, you'll want 200Ah of battery per kW of inverter.

    Note, that rule is for a 24 volt battery bank (other rules of thumbs are: 100 AH @ 48 volt per 1 kWatt of inverter minimum; or ~400 AH @ 12 volt per 1 kWatt of inverter minimum).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup

    Quite. What we really mean is 4800Wh of battery per 1kW of inverter. Thus 0.2C (0.25C taking into account the inverter efficeincy) discharge rate. It isnt that that the bank cant deliver more than that, obviously it can, but at the cost of reduced capacity and lower cycle life. You also get a nasty, voltage sag leads to current increase spiral. AGM you can about double it. Lithium double again.
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • inetdog
    inetdog Solar Expert Posts: 3,123 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    BB. wrote: »
    Note, that rule is for a 24 volt battery bank (other rules of thumbs are: 100 AH @ 48 volt per 1 kWatt of inverter minimum; or ~400 AH @ 12 volt per 1 kWatt of inverter minimum).

    -Bill
    Which all comes back to the fact that if you calculate your battery bank capacity in watt-hours instead of amp-hours, the relationship to inverter and panel wattage stays exactly the same (just with an adjustment factor of 1/12 in the rule because you are now using battery watt-hours.)
    SMA SB 3000, old BP panels.
  • inetdog
    inetdog Solar Expert Posts: 3,123 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Thoughts on my Off-Grid Setup
    zoneblue wrote: »
    AGM you can about double it. Lithium double again.
    A reasonable rule of thumb, but with the usual caveats that some AGMs have even lower internal resistance and can handle even higher current. And, more importantly, that for Lithium there will be a big difference between using high rate cylindrical cells, such as those in the Tesla battery pack, high performance flashlights and jump start packs and the rectangular prismatic cells that cannot handle high rates as gracefully. The latter may not be any better than a good AGM.
    SMA SB 3000, old BP panels.