What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
ILFE
Solar Expert Posts: 364 ✭✭
I have 2 - 12vdc, 120AH batteries. I just checked the specific gravity of each one. I know very little about equalization and when it may be time to do that and for how long. Anyway, here are my findings:
Battery #1
Cell 1: 1.250
Cell 2: 1.250
Cell 3: 1.250
Cell 4: 1.255
Cell 5: 1.250
Cell 6: 1.230
Battery #2
Cell 1: 1.255
Cell 2: 1.250
Cell 3: 1.250
Cell 4: 1.245
Cell 5: 1.235
Cell 6: 1.250
Should I equalize them? Current equalization on the controller is set at 15.5v.
Should I absorb longer? Current absorb on the controller is set at 14.4v.
I thought the SG should be higher if they are fully charged?
Please keep in mind that these are batteries that I have NO information, regarding charging, SG, etc.
Both battery volt readings by multimeter and controller, are between 12.5v and 12.6v.
Battery #1
Cell 1: 1.250
Cell 2: 1.250
Cell 3: 1.250
Cell 4: 1.255
Cell 5: 1.250
Cell 6: 1.230
Battery #2
Cell 1: 1.255
Cell 2: 1.250
Cell 3: 1.250
Cell 4: 1.245
Cell 5: 1.235
Cell 6: 1.250
Should I equalize them? Current equalization on the controller is set at 15.5v.
Should I absorb longer? Current absorb on the controller is set at 14.4v.
I thought the SG should be higher if they are fully charged?
Please keep in mind that these are batteries that I have NO information, regarding charging, SG, etc.
Both battery volt readings by multimeter and controller, are between 12.5v and 12.6v.
Paul
Comments
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Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
Hi Paul,
Generally, would expect the target SG of many general purpose batteries would have SGs around 1.265-ish.
Does your CC (and all charge sources) use Battery Temperature Sensors? You should be using them.
Would recommend that you try increasing Absorption time first. It this does not increase the SG, then try increasing the Absorption voltage to about 14.8 V.
Personally would try to fully charge the batteries, and then EQ. Would think that 15.5 is about the minimum temperature compensated voltage for EQ
IMO, an EQ every three months would not hurt.
If you have a way of measuring the charge current into the batteries -- a battery monitor, or Shunt and millivoltmetr -- you can determine about when batteries are fully charged.
Opinions. YMMV. Good Luck. VicOff Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes. 25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel, Honda Eu6500isa, Eu3000is-es, Eu2000, Eu1000 gensets. Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
You're right: if there's nothing skewing your SG readings 1.250 is too low. Ought to be 1.265.
Absorb Voltage may need to go up: 14.4 is a tad low for FLA's. As for time, how long is it now? Using End Amps to discontinue or fixed time?
And you've got variations of 0.020 so an Equalization is in order (after a full charge). What you want to do run it for an hour and check the low cells. If it has improved but is not up to the others, do it again. Repeat until all cells are equal or there is no improvement.
But you need to get a better full charge first. Don't rely on Voltage readings when you have a hydrometer. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Generally, would expect the target SG of many general purpose batteries would have SGs around 1.265-ish.
Does your CC (and all charge sources) use Battery Temperature Sensors? You should be using them.
Would recommend that you try increasing Absorption time first. It this does not increase the SG, then try increasing the Absorption voltage to about 14.8 V.
Personally would try to fully charge the batteries, and then EQ. Would think that 15.5 is about the minimum temperature compensated voltage for EQ
IMO, an EQ every three months would not hurt.
If you have a way of measuring the charge current into the batteries -- a battery monitor, or Shunt and millivoltmetr -- you can determine about when batteries are fully charged.
I have a temp sensor but have not been using it. Living in Cambodia, with the temperatures here, I figured I probably didn't need it? I thought it would be more for "four season" climates? (Solar is my only source to charge the batteries.)
I am glad you suggested increasing Absorption time. That was the first thing I did after testing SG. I increased Absorption time by 30 minutes. Not sure if that will be long enough? Previously, it was at 120 minutes. So, now it is 2.5 hours.
I do have a WBjr, but have not connected it yet. I wanted to get my batteries up to snuff before doing so, in hopes of having the SOC, etc., more accurate.Cariboocoot wrote: »You're right: if there's nothing skewing your SG readings 1.250 is too low. Ought to be 1.265.
Absorb Voltage may need to go up: 14.4 is a tad low for FLA's. As for time, how long is it now? Using End Amps to discontinue or fixed time?
And you've got variations of 0.020 so an Equalization is in order (after a full charge). What you want to do run it for an hour and check the low cells. If it has improved but is not up to the others, do it again. Repeat until all cells are equal or there is no improvement.
But you need to get a better full charge first. Don't rely on Voltage readings when you have a hydrometer.
As I stated in my reply to Vic, Absorption will run today, for the first time, for 2.5 hours. That is, unless you folks think I should increase that length of time?
I am not sure how to set "end amps". So, I left Absorption at 2 hours, which was default time on the controller, when I set it up. If 14.4 is too low, what should I set it at, in your opinion? The controller will be in Absorption in another hour. It's 7:48am here, currently.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
Is Absorption more about the voltage, or about amperes?
I mean, it goes into Absorption pretty early, usually. But, the amperes are not high, due to the early morning hour.
And, I was wrong. I had it set at 14.5v for Absorb. I just noticed it.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)I have a temp sensor but have not been using it. Living in Cambodia, with the temperatures here, I figured I probably didn't need it? I thought it would be more for "four season" climates? (Solar is my only source to charge the batteries.)
Oh no. RTS turns Voltage down when batteries are hot in addition to turning it up when they are cold. If you lived somewhere they could be kept at 75F all the time you might not need one.I am glad you suggested increasing Absorption time. That was the first thing I did. I increased it by 30 minutes. Not sure if that will be long enough? Previously, it was at 120 minutes. So, now 2.5 hours.
I do have a WBjr, but have not connected it yet, either. I wanted to get my batteries up to snuff before doing so, in hopes of having the SOC, etc., more accurate.
Good plan. Battery monitors of any type have to start out with "known good" batteries or else they are wrong forever in their readings.As I stated in my reply to Vic, Absorption will run today, for the first time, for 2.5 hours. That is, unless you folks think I should increase that length of time?
I am not sure how to set "end amps". So, I left Absorption at 2 hours, which was default time on the controller, when I set it up. If 14.4 is too low, what should I set it at, in your opinion? It will be in absorption in another hour. It's 7:48am here, currently.
What are the Amps at when Absorb ends? It needs to be down around 1-2% of the battery capacity (without any loads on) or else the time is not long enough. The Classic has an End Amps setting somewhere in the manual. It will also use the WB Jr. for SOC control once you've got things ironed out. Absorb time depends not only on current but also DOD; the deeper the discharge the longer Absorb will take.
Should have asked what batteries you are using, but they may not be anything we're familiar with over here. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Is Absorption more about the voltage, or about amperes?
I mean, it goes into Absorption pretty early, usually. But, the amperes are not high, due to the early morning hour.
And, I was wrong. I had it set at 14.5v for Absorb. I just noticed it.
Absorb is a fixed Voltage stage during which current steadily declines. If the batteries come up in Voltage too quickly you may not be getting enough Absorb time too. I wish they hadn't taken the Bulk clock out of the MidNite Classic! -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Cariboocoot wrote: »Oh no. RTS turns Voltage down when batteries are hot in addition to turning it up when they are cold. If you lived somewhere they could be kept at 75F all the time you might not need one.
It's a bit warmer than that here, for sure. 31 to 33 during the day.Cariboocoot wrote: »What are the Amps at when Absorb ends? It needs to be down around 1-2% of the battery capacity (without any loads on) or else the time is not long enough. The Classic has an End Amps setting somewhere in the manual. It will also use the WB Jr. for SOC control once you've got things ironed out. Absorb time depends not only on current but also DOD; the deeper the discharge the longer Absorb will take.
Both of these are in the same menu, and are at default settings:
End Amps: currently, .1a
Rebulk: currently .1v
So, if I have 120ah, I should go with 1.2a-2.4a?
I am currently not using the batteries until I get them sorted - or replaced. I am also waiting for another panel to come in, to add to the array.Cariboocoot wrote: »Should have asked what batteries you are using, but they may not be anything we're familiar with over here.
Some off-the-wall batteries I bought off a guy here. He had just bought them and ended up having to go back to England. So, I got them for $40 USD / each. Too good of a deal to pass up. I have had them about 1 to 1.5 years.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Cariboocoot wrote: »I wish they hadn't taken the Bulk clock out of the MidNite Classic!
It's not in the Kid either. I have no control, that I know of anyway, over any "bulk MPPT" settings. From what I understand, it just "bulk charges" until time to go into Absorb?Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)It's not in the Kid either. I have no control, that I know of anyway, over any "bulk MPPT" settings. From what I understand, it just "bulk charges" until time to go into Absorb?
Yes, but in the good old days while Bulk was running the charge clock was counting up. The length of time it took to complete Bulk was then the length it would stay in Absorb (with minimum and maximum time overrides).
Yes you should increase the End Amps. 0.1 is practically nil which means that function isn't doing anything.
It must be nice to have all that sunshine. The days are already getting shorter here, heading back down to 6 hours. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Cariboocoot wrote: »Yes you should increase the End Amps. 0.1 is practically nil which means that function isn't doing anything.
Okay. Will do that.Cariboocoot wrote: »It must be nice to have all that sunshine. The days are already getting shorter here, heading back down to 6 hours.
We are only having all this sunshine, because I just finished a small (3,600 liters) rainwater harvesting project here at the house. It rained up to the day we finished. Now, it won't rain for a month I bet, although we are in rainy season here. I need rain to test my system for leaks and such.
But, yes, it is nice. Bulk charging by 7am.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
I am using FTC-21P cells .
I'LL upload my specs for the cells . MY SG is 1.215
So knowing the cell structure before committing to a 12.65 whatever , might just do damage. As the previous owner of these cells did.
Source out your cells , Not all SG are 12.65 with the Temp compensation factor .
Here is a C&P of the sheet :
SPECIFICATIONS
• PLATE THICKNESS:
Positive: 0.32 in/8.1 mm
Negative: 0.24 in/6.1 mm
• PLATE DIMENSIONS:
Height Width
Pos: 14.4 in/366 mm 12.1 in/307 mm
Neg: 14.4 in/366 mm 12.1 in/307 mm
• SEDIMENT SPACE:
1.0 in/25.4 mm
• ELECTROLYTE OVER PLATES:
2.9 in/73.7 mm
• CONTAINER:
Container made from Flame Retardant
PVC (UL94-VO/L.O.I. 28%)
• COVER:
Cover made from Flame Retardant
PVC (UL94-VO/L.O.I. 28%)
• SEPARATORS:
Microporous rubber
• RETAINERS:
“Vitrex”- glass fiber
• POST TYPE:
Double Posts
• POST SEAL TYPE:
Slide-Lock™
• PLATE SUSPENSION TYPE:
Positive: Bridge hung
Negative: Bottom supported
• ELECTROLYTE WITHDRAWAL TUBE:
One per cell
• VENT TYPE:
Flame Arrestor, Fused Alumina
• FLOAT VOLTAGE SETTING:
Acceptable min/max: 2.17/2.26Vpc
Recommended: 2.25Vpc
• SPECIFIC GRAVITY:
1.215
• BOLT CONNECTORS:
Stainless steel, standard English
measure, hex-head
• INTERCELL CONNECTOR
If I find a link from a few years ago I'll post it & clean up the C&P
VT -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
A recommended SG of 1.215 is a deviation from normal flooded cells.
1.265 is normal for the vast majority of them.
There are even "tropical" batteries with higher than normal SG. If the batteries Paul has are some of those then his problem is even worse than it appears.
But with the SG hovering around 1.250 on the best cells it is most likely that it is supposed to be 1.265. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
Hi Paul,
Good that you have increased your Absorb time.
Installing the WBjr now would be a good idea. As you know, you may need a Shunt, unless it is included with any e-panel that you might have.
Even without playing around with SOC parameters, the WBjr will allow you to see the charge current going into the batteries. This is very important to know when tring to set Shunt EA values in the Classic or the KID (I do not use the WB on the KID, yet, but believe that the Shunt EA has been implemented in the latest Firmware).
IMO, it would be a very good idea to cycle the batteries as soon as you can -- taking them down to about 50 -60% State Of Charge. This is good for them, and may help. You may need that additional PV input before you do this cycling, unless you have an Inverter/Charger and AC power available.
If you are not really cycling the batteries, then Bulk and Absorption stages of charge will be short.
Sorry forget your exact setup at this time ... thought that you might have a KID, but perhaps it was a Classic.
Opinions differ on the ability to have Bulk time equal Absorb time. Personally, since we usually have wall-to-wall sun in the Summer, Bulk starts shortly after sunrise, and takes a long time for the Sun to come around and really produce significant power. Bulk might take 4.5 -5 hours, and Avsorb 1.5 - 3 hours, depending on the DOD the battery experienced.
And if you could use the BTS, it will only have the potential of making charging batteries more accurate, without you need to worry, or ditz around with settings.
Opinions. You have a very handsome cabin, Paul. Have Fun, VicOff Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes. 25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel, Honda Eu6500isa, Eu3000is-es, Eu2000, Eu1000 gensets. Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)I am using FTC-21P cells .
I'LL upload my specs for the cells . MY SG is 1.215
So knowing the cell structure before committing to a 12.65 whatever , might just do damage. As the previous owner of these cells did.
Source out your cells , Not all SG are 12.65 with the Temp compensation factor .
Here is a C&P of the sheet :
SPECIFICATIONS
• PLATE THICKNESS:
Positive: 0.32 in/8.1 mm
Negative: 0.24 in/6.1 mm
• PLATE DIMENSIONS:
Height Width
Pos: 14.4 in/366 mm 12.1 in/307 mm
Neg: 14.4 in/366 mm 12.1 in/307 mm
VT
VT, nice that you have some data on YOUR batteries.
Paul's batteries appear to be significantly smaller in size and capacity that those that you note.
It is almost impossible to imagine that batteries filled with 1.215 SG electrolyte could be charged to such an extent that the SG would be raised to 1.250, nominal, and not have much of the water in the electrolyte "boiled" off, IMO.
1.215 SG batteries are quite uncommon around here. They are probably a specialty battery, probably designed for long Float life. The lowest SG batteries that I have seen are 1.250 SG -- Locomotive batteries. Loco batts spend most of their time in Float.
But, at this point, we all are guessing, without data from the manufacturer regarding the exact specs for Paul's batteries. FWIW, VicOff Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes. 25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel, Honda Eu6500isa, Eu3000is-es, Eu2000, Eu1000 gensets. Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
Agree Vic .
But were answering questions with point numbers without knowing his cells or battery. Plus he's not even close to North America. Cambodia can source from russia -central asia . I did time /work in China , buying a battery was a two day affair to get the correct one , with the correct SG acid. Not all is as it seems after the fact you have left your money with what was sold.
Rule of Hydrometer 12.65 yes, but best to know battery sizing & model in my view.
Mine are BC hydro / DEW / Comm repeater site battery.
Going off memory cell weight is 400# per. ( I use a kubota to move them when needed. )
VT -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Rule of Hydrometer 12.65 yes, but best to know battery sizing & model in my view.
I'll have to go along with this, I've heard of lower SG's for prolonged battery life. Even Trojan did this for a while... So regional variances are likely.
It sounds like he's taken the system off line/no loads? So likely you'll reach full charge in a day or 2, Check the SG then and spend the next day in Equalizing mode once the sun is hitting the panels well, checking SG every hour, once you have 2 hours with no change your likely topped out. If you had a way to recharge other than solar, you might try a capacity test of some sort after this. A load about 1/20th of your battery banks capacity four 6-10 hours or so then check SG again and see where it fell in relation to chart for SG as a % of charge.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
First, thanks for all the replies. It's great that this forum has so many helpful folks. That is one thing I have loved about it since before I first joined.
CDN_VT: The batteries have had no load on them, other than what the controller draws, for the past two days. I wanted to make sure they had plenty of time to charge fully, prior to testing them with the hydrometer this morning. Before sunrise, I took the panels off line and began testing each cell. I am pretty sure 1.215 is way out of range for these batteries.Cariboocoot wrote: »But with the SG hovering around 1.250 on the best cells it is most likely that it is supposed to be 1.265.
How far off, exactly, would 1.250 be from 1.265? Are we talking 80% charge? 90%?Hi Paul,
Good that you have increased your Absorb time.
Installing the WBjr now would be a good idea. As you know, you may need a Shunt, unless it is included with any e-panel that you might have.
Even without playing around with SOC parameters, the WBjr will allow you to see the charge current going into the batteries. This is very important to know when tring to set Shunt EA values in the Classic or the KID (I do not use the WB on the KID, yet, but believe that the Shunt EA has been implemented in the latest Firmware).
I went ahead and increased it to 3 hours, just after it started Absorption this morning. I don't think it would hurt, at least until I know what is going on with the batteries.
I have a shut. It's a Beta Kid, Vic. I got the Whizbang at the FREE (wbjr) / 40% off (shunt) deal for the beta testers. It also has the most recent firmware.But, at this point, we all are guessing, without data from the manufacturer regarding the exact specs for Paul's batteries. FWIW, Vic
Unfortunately, what I am working with is it, as I have been unable to get any information on them, from anywhere.Not all is as it seems after the fact you have left your money with what was sold.
Yep, exactly! Unfortunately, in the west, we take customer service after the sale, for granted.It sounds like he's taken the system off line/no loads? So likely you'll reach full charge in a day or 2, Check the SG then and spend the next day in Equalizing mode once the sun is hitting the panels well, checking SG every hour, once you have 2 hours with no change your likely topped out.
Yes. Nothing has been drawn, with the exception of what power the controller needed. They sat all last night and I tested them before first light this morning.If you had a way to recharge other than solar, you might try a capacity test of some sort after this. A load about 1/20th of your battery banks capacity four 6-10 hours or so then check SG again and see where it fell in relation to chart for SG as a % of charge.
Solar is the only way for me to charge anything here, at the moment. Solar, or nothing.
Thanks, guys, for all the assistance. I will see if I can get them sorted. Here, the cost of replacing the batteries with new ones, is even much higher than in the states. That's why I want to put it off as long as I can. And, none of my loads are actually critical. At the farm, it is mostly for lighting and convenience loads, just in the middle of nowhere.
At my home, the solar covers me during power cuts.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Cariboocoot wrote: »A recommended SG of 1.215 is a deviation from normal flooded cells.
1.265 is normal for the vast majority of them.
There are even "tropical" batteries with higher than normal SG. If the batteries Paul has are some of those then his problem is even worse than it appears.
But with the SG hovering around 1.250 on the best cells it is most likely that it is supposed to be 1.265.
I think it's the other way around... tropical batteries usually have lower SG. Perhaps Paul's batteries are fully charged at 1.250.
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Perhaps Paul's batteries are fully charged at 1.250.
If that holds true, I sure would feel a lot better about this equalization thing.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)If that holds true, I sure would feel a lot better about this equalization thing.
But since you don't know, you should do the EQ. If for no other reason than to get all the batteries equal. If the SG rises above 1.250 in the process, you will know what your actual SG should be.
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
ILFE, what did you do to maintain those batteries after purchase till now ? Were they on a trickle charge or?
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)westbranch wrote: »ILFE, what did you do to maintain those batteries after purchase till now ? Were they on a trickle charge or?
When I first got them, they came with a (vietnamese made cheapo) inverter / charger. I used them during power outages when I lived near the ocean.
After moving here and setting up the solar array at the farm, they were used there, along with two other (almost) identical batteries. I had four originally. I then separated the four, and moved two to our home in town, and left two on the array at the farm.
They have been kept fully charged since I have had them, though.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)But since you don't know, you should do the EQ. If for no other reason than to get all the batteries equal. If the SG rises above 1.250 in the process, you will know what your actual SG should be.
I will do an EQ as soon as possible, then, for sure.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
That is good to know, as sitting for even a month with no trickle charge, at least, could start them on the sulphation pathway...not good...
btw what is the SG on the others? that would be a good reference point.
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
All I was trying to get across Paul , that without knowing your battery type or temperature build , We don't know for sure that 12.65 SG would be obtainable , or trying to reach that , Damage could be done. Mine are an unusual yes , but trying to get mine to 12.65 , boiling would happen & causing damage & a mess plus a good chance of an explosion .
Yesterday evening a charging battery exploded in a boat in Vancouver Bc Canada . all survived but the boat.
Westbank question is good also.
What CC are you using ? etc .. ""System update coming soon."" could help also.
Some CC you can do minor adjustments and then you can see how the cells are taking "MINOR Tweaks" .
Just my type of thinking , not always correct , but safer.
VT -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)All I was trying to get across Paul , that without knowing your battery type or temperature build , We don't know for sure that 12.65 SG would be obtainable , or trying to reach that , Damage could be done. Mine are an unusual yes , but trying to get mine to 12.65 , boiling would happen & causing damage & a mess plus a good chance of an explosion .
VT -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)westbranch wrote: »That is good to know, as sitting for even a month with no trickle charge, at least, could start them on the sulphation pathway...not good...
btw what is the SG on the others? that would be a good reference point.
If you are referring to the other two batteries, I do not know at the moment. They are 30 km from here, at the farm. I will have to go out there and check them to see.All I was trying to get across Paul , that without knowing your battery type or temperature build , We don't know for sure that 12.65 SG would be obtainable , or trying to reach that , Damage could be done. Mine are an unusual yes , but trying to get mine to 12.65 , boiling would happen & causing damage & a mess plus a good chance of an explosion .
Yesterday evening a charging battery exploded in a boat in Vancouver Bc Canada . all survived but the boat.
Westbank question is good also.
What CC are you using ? etc .. ""System update coming soon."" could help also.
Some CC you can do minor adjustments and then you can see how the cells are taking "MINOR Tweaks" .
Just my type of thinking , not always correct , but safer.
I understand, man. I was just hoping that, due to so many cells being in the 1.250 "neighborhood", that is where the batteries should be.
If these batteries explode, they only thing they can burn down is a steel set of stairs and concrete walls. I'm pretty strange about safety too. I do not believe in taking short cuts to solve any issue - especially when lives could very well depend upon those decisions.
On the system I am referring to, I am using a Midnite Kid Controller. (If you don't have one, I suggest buying one. They are great!)
I know I need to update my signature. I'm not always as fast as I should be, regarding sorting things out.Paul -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)Blackcherry04 wrote: »Why would there be a danger ?? A EQ is stopped after a hour without a rise in the SG level. Anyone trying to use a timed EQ probably shouldn't be doing a EQ to start with. You are also controlling the temperatures below a danger level ( 110-115 F ).
There are 2 different types of equalizing, though they are rarely described as such, one is a maintenance equalizing, done regardless of SG readings many/most flooded battery companies suggest a regular equalizing like this, largely to prevent stratification. Only a couple manufactures don't want you to do this Trojan and Deka(?). A timed equalizing is fine for this 1-2 hours.
Then there is a corrective equalizing, when you have cells out of balance in SG readings by .2 or more. This should be done while monitoring the SG reading and quit after they don't show improvement after 1 or 2 hourly checkings of SG.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)
Paul , Good we understand . I also have a few Midnight kids (As In Solar CC's)
And what Photowhit posted was what I was referring to .
Get a temp gauge on them for you to read , and follow checking SG every 15 mins or so . You might have lots of gas off so wear eye protection & have water for you to wash off any drops. after an hour or so You'll know if you you are gaining SG or it's reached it's max and it's just bubbling gas off.
Many times at the marina I have seen folks charge there battery's to the boil point & fill the boats hull / bilge with gasses.Same would happen if you were to force a unregulated timed high voltage (14.7 or some high numb ) thinking it might help , but in fact you have boiled & damaged.
Adding of the WBJ : http://www.midnitesolar.com/video/videoPlay.php?video_ID=92&videoCat_ID=21
Your line paul :" I do have a WBjr, but have not connected it yet. I wanted to get my batteries up to snuff before doing so, in hopes of having the SOC, etc., more accurate." after you have figured that the SOC is 100% , you may start the WBJ & all timed settings by starting the Kid again. Learned /programmed in settings stay , but the rest start from scratch. (pull fuses & PV power at night or in resting off)
Bulk clock needs the WBJ (hooked up ) for it to judge timing. after a using period of a few weeks .
Would help plus the battery temp sensor. Without knowing your true battery build specs , there will be guessing , comparing since you have another pair but aged differently. home set is charged from Grid ? if they show a different SG then you know something is up .
One thing I do (because of age, left brain forgets) is before I change any setting in the Kid Or classics , I have a strip of paper in the owner's manual where they walk me through each menu setting , there I write in the setting it started with in pen & then what i moved it to in pencil red.. That way I can remember a few days later what i had forgot .
Are you still on the factory settings of firmware version 17.22
New firmware out 1742 that I will update on next service maintenance of the system
VT -
Re: What should I do regarding my batteries? (Specific Gravity Query)There are 2 different types of equalizing, though they are rarely described as such, one is a maintenance equalizing, done regardless of SG readings many/most flooded battery companies suggest a regular equalizing like this, largely to prevent stratification. Only a couple manufactures don't want you to do this Trojan and Deka(?). A timed equalizing is fine for this 1-2 hours.
Then there is a corrective equalizing, when you have cells out of balance in SG readings by .2 or more. This should be done while monitoring the SG reading and quit after they don't show improvement after 1 or 2 hourly checkings of SG.
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