New user
Comments
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Re: New userReason for not going with 600volt MPPT controller:
1. Cost
2. wanted to avoid high voltage
3. wanted redudancy
4. The cost of a single morningstar 600volt mppt controller that outputs 48v is about $1200. Although, the string's Voc is 600 vDC, the max input PV power is still 3200 watts. I would still need 3 of these controllers for my 10KW array. Below are the reasons I went with my decision:
a) three 600 volt controllers is $3600 versus cost of same three conrollers but in 150 Voc @ $400/piece = $1200. Even including additional wiring , its much much cheaper!
b) parallel wiring allows me easier trouble shooting and or eliminitaing in groups of 3 panels at a time.
c) if I used the 600 volt system, I would have 1 string of 12 panels. A break in the line or panel affects all of them.so, where is the reliability issue?As far as the batteries, all batteries are protected by breakers as are all equipment loads.
As far as the system not having run at full load, that is absolutely not true. The system was designed to be run with atmost 1 string of batteries with 100% load and full PV production. It has been tested and confirmed with ammeters.I don't mind the criticism, but it most of us here at my work are wondering how others are doing their calculations.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New user
Photowhit,
I certainly understand that the rating on the battery is a 20 hour discharge rating and has been accounted for in the design. The battery capacity was actually calculated at 1 hour rate as we wanted to be able to run for no more than 1 hour on batteries.
I had posted originally that my city does not allow tieng to the grid. Since I looked at grid tie inverter and realized that I needed basically a grid tie inverter with battery bank and sell mode off, it turned out Grid tie inverters were far too expensive compared to stand alone inverters.
The batteries soul purpose is to act as a buffer to supply sufficient cranking power for capacitive or inductive loads such as motors (micro wave, Air conditioner, furnace motor, washing machine, garage door opener etc.).
This design allows me to use PV and cut my bill in half and get back on the grid automatically at a low cost. A radian inverter setup for grid zero and running with batteries would be a similar system to mine. That too would have 4 parallel MPPT controllers (600 volt or 150 volt morningstar controllers) -
Re: New user
I can tell you where you run into a issue with multiple charging sources paralleled. Let's use 12 V for the example, they all start to bulk up to 14.7V. The first one to reach 14.7V will go into absorb it will start to cut it's current, at that point the other (s ) will have to increase theirs to maintain the voltage level. When the voltage is stabilized at 14.7V and they are all in absorb they will start to fight as each one reduces current and the others will raise to keep the voltage up. If you have a timed absorb they will stop charging at erratic times and amps, one may go to float and then start a total recharge. Some will spike their voltage up as it all works against the logic of their algorithms. Can it be done, yes, but the results may not be as expected. If you use a RTS it can cause some more issues as the all go in their own direction.
Try a Distributed Charging System (DCS), I could see 8 controllers and panel sets on 8 different batteries for 48V
http://www.evhelp.com/Distributed_charging_system_generic.htm -
Re: New user
if all the controllers are looking at the same voltage and temperature sensor is that still a problem. What about just limiting the max charging current accross all 4 controllers to say 12 amps using their MSView software, this way, the max current ever going out to the batteries would never exceed 48 amps. Wouldn't it just take longer to charge the batteries? Its probably a dumb question, i know -
Re: New userif all the controllers are looking at the same voltage and temperature sensor is that still a problem. What about just limiting the max charging current accross all 4 controllers to say 12 amps using their MSView software, this way, the max current ever going out to the batteries would never exceed 48 amps. Wouldn't it just take longer to charge the batteries? Its probably a dumb question, i know
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Re: New user
I got a response from Morningstar tech support as shown below regarding limiting the charge current of the 4 MPPT controllers. Currently, each MPPT controller has a remote battery sensor going to the same battery so that they all read the same temperature. Also, each MPPT controller has a remote battery voltage sensor going to the battery bank so they can get an accurate battery voltage. So, all controllers have the same battery voltage and temperature readings. Here is what morningstar replied this morning.
Hello Ravi,
Yes. Max charge current of the TS-MPPT controller can be limited using MSView to create a custom configuration file.
Best Regards
Steve V.
MS Technical Support
ref:_00D30onEa._500a0lDCTT:ref -
Re: New user
I know you want what you've done to work, and it does...
...but I'd leave it the way it is, problem is the Morningstar are basically a dumb charge controller, they can remote sense the battery voltage, but they can't tell you how much current is going into the battery or being used by the inverter. if you reduce the output current you will have less current available to run loads via the inverter.
The Midnite classic's could be setup to limit the about of current going into the batteries while allowing the rest of the current to run loads since it measures the current going into the batteries via a shunt just ahead of the battery bank rather than at the charge controller.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New user
Photowhit, I understand you completely, but the problem is that I am being told that i should have used 600V MPPT's over the 150 MPPT because that is better. I think, I have already proved that is absolutely wrong for me. I do understand the issue that Midnite is a better controller but I cannot change that now. -
Re: New userPhotowhit, I understand you completely, but the problem is that I am being told that i should have used 600V MPPT's over the 150 MPPT because that is better. I think, I have already proved that is absolutely wrong for me. I do understand the issue that Midnite is a better controller but I cannot change that now.
I don't know if your responding to my last post or an earlier one. what is making your system economical is the output from your array, if you reduce the charge controllers output your system will not support the daytime loads.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New user
Again, since you asked--My two cents worth:Reason for not going with 600volt MPPT controller:
1. Cost2. wanted to avoid high voltage3. wanted redundancy4. The cost of a single morningstar 600volt mppt controller that outputs 48v is about $1200. Although, the string's Voc is 600 vDC, the max input PV power is still 3200 watts. I would still need 3 of these controllers for my 10KW array. Below are the reasons I went with my decision:
a) three 600 volt controllers is $3600 versus cost of same three conrollers but in 150 Voc @ $400/piece = $1200. Even including additional wiring , its much much cheaper!
b) parallel wiring allows me easier trouble shooting and or eliminating in groups of 3 panels at a time.
c) if I used the 600 volt system, I would have 1 string of 12 panels. A break in the line or panel affects all of them.so, where is the reliability issue?
Parallel solar panels are "different" because they are current sources. They are a "natural" to parallel load sharing.
Batteries (voltage sources) have problems because they do not share current "very well".As far as the batteries, all batteries are protected by breakers as are all equipment loads.
Sounds good... As a check, look at each hot wire (usually +) that leaves the battery bank and goes to a load/source. Pretend (in your mind) that you short to the -/return load. How much current from all power sources (battery, battery chargers, etc.) can feed current down that wire to the short (note, you have have 50 amps from one side of the wire and 10 amps from the other--Evaluate each "side" of the short circuit--I.e., 50 amps from left and 10 amps from right--You don't need to sum the current to 60 amps total and review wire gauge).
With multiple power systems (battery strings, multiple chargers, etc.)--You can sometimes get surprised how it all can add up and exceed the wire rating.As far as the system not having run at full load, that is absolutely not true. The system was designed to be run with atmost 1 string of batteries with 100% load and full PV production. It has been tested and confirmed with ammeters.
You don't have your system in your Signature Line--What is a string of batteries (AH and voltage of string and/or bank). What type of battery (flooded cell, AGM, etc.)? And what do you consider "full power" (charging and discharging)?
It sounds like (as I recall) you really only pull "full power" in the middle of the day--So your available current for loads is Bank+Solar Charge controllers. And if that works well for you--That is great. You could have some "micro cycling" issues with the battery bank (single phase AC inverters do not draw "DC" flat rate current... They actually draw a Sine Squared 120 HZ (if 60 Hz inverter, or 100 Hz if 50 Hz inverter) current wave form. Basically, for a part of the cycle, the inverter draws near zero current and part of the cycle the inverter draws sqrt(2)*RMS-Wattage. So, the battery bank needs to behave both as a battery and like a "capacitor" during this current profile. You don't really want the battery to drop below ~12.7 volts (12 volt bank) to ensure that you are not "charging/discharging" the battery 100-120 per second. And obviously, the battery has to be able to accept all the charging current from the array when the inverter is at the zero current part of the cycle.I don't mind the criticism, but it most of us here at my work are wondering how others are doing their calculations.
For most people--They want power on demand. So the power system (batteries+inverter+charger+panels) needs to not only charge when the sun is up, but supply "needed power" when the sun is down and when the storm clouds roll in.
That is the most conservative way to design the system... But it may not be the most cost effective for you.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: New user
each battery string is protected by a 100 amp breaker. each string uses a 0 AWG wire which is rated for 195A. each connector was pressed using a hydraulic crimper and connector (not the cheap 22 cent connectors) -
Re: New user'Coot knows I strongly disagree with this statement, In my experience and looking at the specs of different flooded lead acid batteries, only Trojan doesn't recommend a regular 'maintenance'(my wording) equalizing. It should be done as a regular part of the maintenance. I think I've posted battery maintenance sheets in the past from other manufacturers, perhaps I'll find it or regenerate it so I can post it when this comes up.
There is also a corrective equalizing that 'Coot alludes to...
Yes but you run a forklift battery; that's a different animal.
In five years I have not had to EQ the East Penn batteries even once. You read that right. -
Re: New userCariboocoot wrote: »Yes but you run a forklift battery; that's a different animal.
In five years I have not had to EQ the East Penn batteries even once. You read that right.
Okay, it's NOT JUST FORKLIFT BATTERIES!!!
SO I checked your East Penn and they too don't recommend a maintenance Equalizing;
After the batteries are fully charged, they may need an equalizing
charge to bring the battery voltages closer together. Only
equalize golf car batteries when they have a low specific
gravity (below 1.250) or a wide-ranging specific gravity
between batteries (0.030) after being fully charged. Only perform
an equalize charge on batteries that are flooded/wet.
But;
Rolls Surette;
Equalization - Preventative
Individual cells will vary slightly in specific gravity after a charging cycle. Equalization
or a “controlled overcharge” is required to bring each battery plate to a fully charged
condition. This will reduce stratification and sulfating, two circumstances that shorten
battery life. Equalization of the battery bank is recommended every 30 to 180 days,
Crown; Batteries used in RE systems should be equalized every 30 days at a minimum...
Exide; Periodic equalization may improve battery life. Equalizing // helps to reduce the effects of
electrolyte stratification.
US Batteries; Actively used batteries should be equalized once per month.
US Battery new for RE; Constant voltage (2.55+/-0.05 vpc) extended for 1-3 hours after normal charge cycle (repeat every 30 days)
Though Trojan doesn't generally recommend equalizing, the do state; Trojan recommends any automated system should be set to equalize Industrial batteries at least
every 30 nominal charge throughputs. // An equalizing charge prevents battery stratification and reduces sulfation, the leading causes, of
battery failure.
And even East Penn/ Deka says; Based on PV applications, unpredictable recharge availability, periodic equalize may be required.
..and your giving me Forklift batteries and I'll assume HUP...Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New userOkay, it's NOT JUST FORKLIFT BATTERIES!!!
I think the reason so many manufacturers recommend ROUTINE equalization is because they assume the operator of the batteries will not know when to do a CORRECTIVE equalization.
The only way that you know that your batteries do NOT need a corrective equalization is to check the SG of every cell. How many operators check the SG of EVERY cell in their batteries EVERY month?
It's a lot easier to just press that EQ button every month than it is to check the SG of every cell every month. The battery manufacturers know that... that's why they recommend routine EQ.
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: New userI think the reason so many manufacturers recommend ROUTINE equalization is because they assume the operator of the batteries will not know when to do a CORRECTIVE equalization.
The only way that you know that your batteries do NOT need a corrective equalization is to check the SG of every cell. How many operators check the SG of EVERY cell in their batteries EVERY month?
It's a lot easier to just press that EQ button every month than it is to check the SG of every cell every month. The battery manufacturers know that... that's why they recommend routine EQ.
--vtMaps
Bingo!
Of course these same people won't even check electrolyte level much less SG so their batteries are doomed.
Then I get to sell them for scrap. -
Re: New user
One word, though there are other reasons, stratification. In low cycling systems or tall case batteries like L16's.
I also suspect this is the reason Trojans have such a high absorption voltage, but don't require regular equalizing.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New user
Hey guys, I was out on vacation and now that I am back, my brother inlaw wants me to get his PV system started. From everything I read on this forum, it appears that I have finally managed to have talked down the design regarding too many charge controllers and or wrong type (600 volt). I agree, there are better brands with more features, but I started with Morningstar and stayed with it because they had been around for a longer time. I have taken your advise and would appreciate any input.
I would like to know if it is possible to have a grid tied inverter with SELL turned off so I can avoid having a battery bank for this office installation. If you know of a good and large inverter, please advise, otherwise, this is what I am looking at below:
His office runs 6 days a week for 10 hours a day. As I mentioned earlier, his needs are about 3 times larger than mine. So, I planned on a 30KW system using the hardware below:
250W PV modules for approx 30KW system
2- Outback Radian 8K hybrid inverter setup in grid zero mode
8- Midnite solar 150 classic (6 strings of 3 panels per string)
1 string of 2 or 6 volt batteries (minimal size) for a 48 volt system
snapnrack railing system
midnite solar combiner boxes
Load Description Voltage (VAC) Power Consumption (W) Qty hrs/day Total WH/day AH/day at 48VDC
Lighting: Incandescent (60W) 120 60 0.00 0.00
Flood Light 120 500 0.00 0.00
Compact Fluorescent (CFL) (100W equivalent) 120 23 0.00 0.00
Fluorescent, 4ft tube 120 40 160 10 64000.00 1481.48
Electronics: TV (20" LCD) 120 200 3 10 6000.00 138.89
VCR 120 50 0.00 0.00
DVD player 120 40 0.00 0.00
Computer (laptop) 120 50 20 10 10000.00 231.48
Printer 120 100 10 10 10000.00 231.48
Network router 120 50 5 10 2500.00 57.87
Radio (Sound System) 120 30 0.00 0.00
Alarm clock 120 8 0.00 0.00
Refrigerator/ 16 cuft frig/freezer 120 50 0.00 0.00
Freezer: 20 cuft frig/freezer 120 60 0.00 0.00
15 cuft chest freezer 120 40 0.00 0.00
Kitchen Microwave 120 1100 1 3 3300.00 76.39
Appliances: Coffee maker 120 500 1 3 1500.00 34.72
Toaster 120 1200 0.00 0.00
Dish Washer 120 1500 0.00 0.00
Waste Disposal 120 375 0.00 0.00
Appliances: Washing Machine 120 500 1 3 1500.00 34.72
Dryer (electric) 220 4000 0.00 0.00
Dryer (gas) 120 300 0.00 0.00
Vaccum cleaner 120 1200 0.00 0.00
HVAC: Portable Heater 120 1500 0.00 0.00
Furnace Blower 120 750 0.00 0.00
Air Conditioner (window unit) 120 1000 0.00 0.00
Air Conditioner (central) 220 5000 2 8 80000.00 1851.85
Fan (ceiling or portable) 120 30 10 10 3000.00 69.44
Misc: Garage door opener 120 375 0.00 0.00
Well pump (1 hp) 220 750 0.00 0.00
Hair Dryer 120 1200 0.00 0.00
Power Tools 120 1000 0.00 0.00
Other 0.00 0.00
Other 0.00 0.00
Other 0.00 0.00
Other 0.00 0.00
Other 0.00 0.00
Total WH/Day= 181800.00 Total AH/day = 4208.33 -
Re: New userFrom everything I read on this forum, it appears that I have finally managed to have talked down the design regarding too many charge controllers and or wrong type (600 volt). I agree, there are better brands with more features, but I started with Morningstar and stayed with it because they had been around for a longer time. I have taken your advise and would appreciate any input.
No. Go back and reread my solution. Two classic 150s would have been sufficient for your array. I also proposed a cheapish solution to most of your ratio problems, but i get the sense that while you asked for our feedback, you really arent that interested in what your hearing.
On the inverter side my thought was that having an inverter with gen support/ grid zero and such functionality will allow you to mix partial grid and inverter to supply day time loads where the solar might provide usuable contribution but where you might ordinariy go back to grid. However theres a major cost jump between your current inverter and these more robust products. Your whole economic propostion hinges on budget, borderline unsuitable gear.
Thus reinvestigating your grid tie options, andsorting out your excess load issues are still your best solutions.1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar -
Re: New user
This isnt for my system, this is for the other system. I am not planning on changing my system. It has been working just fine for the last 2 years and would be too costly to start switching components. I took the advice of this forum and using my layout and your components. So, why are you saying that I am not interested in what your hearing.
The new system is indeed using Midnite classic 150's for the 250 watt panels. The sole purpose of this system is to reduce monthly electric bills. The office only runs during the day and the city does not allow selling back to the grid.
This is for a medical office building and doctor wants to take a business expense and tax credit while available. -
Re: New userglad to hear it. I will contact city of farmington missouri and see what they have to say. Thank you soooo much
Am running a bit behind here ...
So, recall that you had checked a few years ago, and your city did not have provisions for GT or a hybrid GT system ...
Have you had a chance to determine what is available now?
And, is the new system that you are now thinking about, in an area that permits GT systems?
This Thread has gone along for about three weeks. Have read every post, but some of the details have faded.
In addition, some have asked for photos of your monitoring equipment -- Trimetric (?) -- when you are producing peak power IIRC, have not seen those. Others have wondered about the implementation details of your system, especially when thinking that you may be doing a new system for another person. There will probably be inspections of this new system ... and so on, and perhaps some liability issues ...
Have felt that you were primarily looking for affirmation on your system. This is a bit difficult to give, with the present level of detail known, and would require a good bit of study of exactly what was done and how it was done.
Often, some level of affirmation can come from the AHJ on a given project.
Almost every system is at least a bit different than the most others. We all take our own cut at things. And as long as things are reasonably within the applicable Codes, things are generally good, especially if the user of the system is happy, and it meets the needs of those involved.
Way to go, getravi! (my affirmation). FWIW, VicOff Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes. 25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel, Honda Eu6500isa, Eu3000is-es, Eu2000, Eu1000 gensets. Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum. -
Re: New user
No, the city does not allow selling back to the grid. So, I was wondering if it is possible to avoid batteries all together by using a grid tie inverter to do the DC to AC conversion for the PV side and on demand purchase of remaining power as needed. This is not for myself, but for the other installation.
Regarding photo's of monitoring equipment, I did post a picture of my Morningstar Remote meter showing an average day's production. All other monitoring equipment is home made as are all other components of this system.
I tried to upload some very small photos (GIF, JPG) on this site but have had no success. What is largest file size allowed on this site for uploading? -
Re: New user
No the design of grid tied inverters only allow for use when current is present to sync with, so current isn't back fed into a dead grid, so with out the grid they don't function.
I don't know the file size, but if you reduce the image to 6-800px max side and save as a jpg you should be fine, Irfanview is an easy free program to resize and do basic photo editing.
Once again, I will encourage you to check with the insurance company and mortgage holder for an okay to do such an installation. Also even towns that don't have electrical inspection for homes often do have inspection for businesses, worth checking out!Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New user
photowhit,
thats ok if they dont function without the grid, what i was wondering is if it is possible to use a grid tie inverter, turn off the sell feature so excess power does not go back onto the grid -- this avoids the problem with his city saying dont put power onto our system. This way, my brother inlaw avoids batteries and charge controllers. When there is not enough power from the sun, the difference would automatically be made up from the grid. I have heard that a lot of grid tie inverters allow you to do that. I have in fact read that the outback radian hybrid inverter does indeed allow you to setup as grid tie with battery backup and turn off sell feature. The only thing here is that I wish to avoid the battery backup for him because then, I need charge controllers. Also, this radian inverter requires charge controllers and will only work with a battery based system. I was wondering if there are other grid tie inverters that also have the ability to turn off the sell feature like the radian does, but will work without batteries and thus without charge controllers.
The net effect would be, he would still lower his electric bill most of the day, take a 30% tax credit on the panels, take a business write off on the solar project and no maintainance. -
Re: New userphotowhit,
thats ok if they dont function without the grid, what i was wondering is if it is possible to use a grid tie inverter, turn off the sell feature so excess power does not go back onto the grid -- this avoids the problem with his city saying dont put power onto our system. This way, my brother inlaw avoids batteries and charge controllers. When there is not enough power from the sun, the difference would automatically be made up from the grid. I have heard that a lot of grid tie inverters allow you to do that. I have in fact read that the outback radian hybrid inverter does indeed allow you to setup as grid tie with battery backup and turn off sell feature. The only thing here is that I wish to avoid the battery backup for him because then, I need charge controllers. Also, this radian inverter requires charge controllers and will only work with a battery based system. I was wondering if there are other grid tie inverters that also have the ability to turn off the sell feature like the radian does, but will work without batteries and thus without charge controllers.
The net effect would be, he would still lower his electric bill most of the day, take a 30% tax credit on the panels, take a business write off on the solar project and no maintainance. -
Re: New user
A GT inverter is a) designed to output 100% of available solar panel power (more sun, more power) and b) does not have any ability to measure the power flow back into the utility line.
There are some GT inverters that have the ability to adjust their output current/power based on "other factors" such as line frequency (SMA GT Inverters paired with Sunnyboy hybrid inverters) and some that can change their output based on a signal from the power company (too much solar RE power in network, power company can signal GT inverter to limit its output power--Not sure if radio or AC line frequency or what).
Could it be done--Yes. But at this point, I don't know of any other options in the US.
There is one device out of the UK that may support what you are asking for, and SMA has (or had--not sure, link is broken) a device:
How to vary power to a resistance heater?
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: New user
photowhit,
you are right, i am a beginner. So, if i understand you, a grid interactive inverter requires batteries and will interact with the grid and supplement from the grid as needed. The grid interactive inverter can have its sell feature turned off so as to not put power back onto the grid. The grid interactive inverter such as the radian, will require batteries and charge controllers such as midnite classics.
However, a grid tie inverter (although will not require separate charge controller such as midnite classic) cannot have its sell feature turned off? -
Re: New user
What your looking at is a Mini Grid, The GT Inverter output is controlled by a hybrid that is AC coupled and will shift it's reference frequency so the GT shuts off. You really need someone with experience in designing them, it's not something you can mix up in the back room and expect a good outcome. You'v moved past the free advise a forum can offer. Spend some $$$. -
Re: New user
Its not about $$$. This project is over $50K in parts alone. I have read already on this forum as well as numerous others how many professionals have failed with their technical experience when it came to engineering the entire project. I want to try to get as many questions answered here before I sit down with an installer once I find one (if I can find one).
Here is a rough cost thus far and does not even include railing or installation:
Qty Unit Price Total
250W PV Module 120x $180 =$21600
8K outback Radian hybrid inverter 2 4500 9000
MPPT controller (Midnite classic 150 - 6 strings of 3 pv each) 7 850 5950
3R pre-wired MNPV6-MC4-LV combiner 7 285 1995
Wires (PV 10 gauge) & grounding 16 136 2176
2 volt batteries Batteries 24 450 10800
0
Total 51521
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