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Re: New user
That is about the going price around here. If you go online and check homedepot for example, you will find that a 10Kw system is about $25K after taxes and does not include racking and batteries.
So, the system Home depot is selling is in line with others out there and what I put together myself -- raw cost.
If you tack on the labor cost, and racking. It quickly gets out of control. I was hoping to eventually build a site and show all my documents, designs, how to, etc about my system since it was done from scratch entirely and I documented everything from the very beginning. -
Re: New userThat is about the going price around here. If you go online and check homedepot for example, you will find that a 10Kw system is about $25K after taxes and does not include racking and batteries.
So, the system Home depot is selling is in line with others out there and what I put together myself -- raw cost.
If you tack on the labor cost, and racking. It quickly gets out of control. I was hoping to eventually build a site and show all my documents, designs, how to, etc about my system since it was done from scratch entirely and I documented everything from the very beginning.
Oh I wouldn't look at HD as a good cost base; I just noticed they are selling Grape 135 Watt panels here for the same price I bought Conergy 260's for: $300. That puts them on the high end of the price spectrum for solar equipment. -
Re: New userCariboocoot wrote: »I bet most installers would love to be making that kind of money: $7.50 per Watt installed!
Next thing I did was asked for help from you guys :cool: No consultation fee -
Re: New user
Yup, thats why for the next install (the one for my brother inlaw that is about 3 times larger than mine), I want to make sure I have asked all the right questions. I had nothing but manufacturers documentation and manufactuers tech support to go with earlier. I will take pictures of my tristar meter showing todays production on when I get home. Since we hardly go into float mode, you should see atleast 40KWh produced with my 9KW panels (I still have not had time to install my initial 800 watts in panels I originally started with -- the ones shown to the far right in my diagram; i used the 800 system to do my initial design and testing).
Attachment not found.
As u can see, I produced and consumed over 50Wh today over my 11 hour period (very hot day) and I still have an hour left before I shut down the inverter for the day. -
Re: New userYup, thats why for the next install (the one for my brother inlaw that is about 3 times larger than mine), I want to make sure I have asked all the right questions. I had nothing but manufacturers documentation and manufactuers tech support to go with earlier. I will take pictures of my tristar meter showing todays production on when I get home. Since we hardly go into float mode, you should see atleast 40KWh produced with my 9KW panels (I still have not had time to install my initial 800 watts in panels I originally started with -- the ones shown to the far right in my diagram; i used the 800 system to do my initial design and testing).
Attachment not found.
As u can see, I produced and consumed over 50Wh today over my 11 hour period (very hot day) and I still have an hour left before I shut down the inverter for the day. -
Re: New user
That is a bit harder to show as I have a KWh meter at the output of my inverter on the AC side as it feeds the whole house. The meter cannot be reset. However, you must realize, that the solar production will cease once the batteries are charged. I start my day daily at about 51 volts and end at about 51 volts. The Air conditioner itself pretty much ran constantly yesterday as it was very hot. Seeing that the AC uses about 5000 watts, its quick to see how you can use about 50kwh over 11 hrs.
Here is my typical usage below:
Load Description Voltage(VAC) Power Consumption(W) Qty hrs/day Total WH/day AH/day at 48VDC
TV (20" LCD) 120 200 1 3 600.00 13.89
Computer (laptop) 120 50 1 10 500.00 11.57
Printer 120 100 1 1 100.00 2.31
Network router 120 50 1 10 500.00 11.57
Radio (Sound System) 120 30 1 10 300.00 6.94
Alarm clock 120 8 1 10 80.00 1.85
20 cuft frig/freezer 120 60 3 10 1800.00 41.67
Microwave 120 1100 1 1 1100.00 25.46
Coffee maker 120 500 1 0.5 250.00 5.79
Toaster 120 1200 1 0.5 600.00 13.89
Dish Washer 120 1500 1 2 3000.00 69.44
Washing Machine 120 500 1 2 1000.00 23.15
Vaccum cleaner 120 1200 1 1 1200.00 27.78
Furnace Blower 120 750 1 10 7500.00 173.61
Air Conditioner 120 5000 1 4 20000.00 462.96
Ceiling Fan 120 30 5 10 1500.00 34.72
Total WH/Day= 40030.00 Total AH/day = 926.62 -
Re: New userThat is a bit harder to show as I have a KWh meter at the output of my inverter on the AC side as it feeds the whole house. The meter cannot be reset. However, you must realize, that the solar production will cease once the batteries are charged. I start my day daily at about 51 volts and end at about 51 volts. The Air conditioner itself pretty much ran constantly yesterday as it was very hot. Seeing that the AC uses about 5000 watts, its quick to see how you can use about 50kwh over 11 hrs.
Here is my typical usage below:
Load Description Voltage(VAC) Power Consumption(W) Qty hrs/day Total WH/day AH/day at 48VDC
TV (20" LCD) 120 200 1 3 600.00 13.89
Computer (laptop) 120 50 1 10 500.00 11.57
Printer 120 100 1 1 100.00 2.31
Network router 120 50 1 10 500.00 11.57
Radio (Sound System) 120 30 1 10 300.00 6.94
Alarm clock 120 8 1 10 80.00 1.85
20 cuft frig/freezer 120 60 3 10 1800.00 41.67
Microwave 120 1100 1 1 1100.00 25.46
Coffee maker 120 500 1 0.5 250.00 5.79
Toaster 120 1200 1 0.5 600.00 13.89
Dish Washer 120 1500 1 2 3000.00 69.44
Washing Machine 120 500 1 2 1000.00 23.15
Vaccum cleaner 120 1200 1 1 1200.00 27.78
Furnace Blower 120 750 1 10 7500.00 173.61
Air Conditioner 120 5000 1 4 20000.00 462.96
Ceiling Fan 120 30 5 10 1500.00 34.72
Total WH/Day= 40030.00 Total AH/day = 926.62 -
Re: New user
Very well, I will do that tomorrow -- it seems like, you don't believe the numbers. -
Re: New userVery well, I will do that tomorrow -- it seems like, you don't believe the numbers.
I have the same problem as you have. In Pakistan, we can't sell to grid at this point in time. There is no Feed in tariff program for residential user.
Instead we do have 3 On-grid Government owned solar systems in the country, one is a commercial installation in Quaid e Azam Solar Park in Bahawalpur.
Second one is 175KWp in Islamabad.
Third is 5MW in Agriculture University Faisalabad.
So, residential system have to be designed as either as off-grid or Grid-tied with battery backup and Sell-off. -
Re: New user
oh. sorry. I will take a picture of the tristar at the start of the day along with my KWh meter and then at the end of the day so you can see that I do indeed use everything I produce. This is how I designed my system and is why I have such a small battery bank. I calculated my battery bank such that it should only act as a buffer for about 4 hours. This allows me to run off the batteries each morning from 6am to about 10am when the sun is low and my batteries have started at about 51 volts. By the time it is about 10am, there is sufficient sunlight to start charging and keep the whole house running (excess going to the batteries). The batteries continue charging for about 4 hours while I use the excess to power the house.
The entire system was designed to use everything produced to run the house and excess to charge the batteries. The batteries are charged and discharged daily and have been doing so for the last year and half. I fill the batteries every 2 months and have them in a cool environment where the temperature is pretty much constant 75 degrees F year around (i have a vented battery room in the basement).
Every 2 months when I go to fill the batteries, I check the amperage of each battery string to see if any single string is drawing more current than any other to make sure that a battery is not going bad. Thus far all is ok.
I have not adjusted any charging parameters on any of my batteries. I used the default parameters from morningstar for the lead acid batteries. The volt meter display panels I made (i will take a snapshot of these and post it tomorrow as well) quickly show me voltage of each battery all the time. I quickly shut off the battery string breakers and MPPT breakers going to the battery bus bar so I can get an accurate reading.
I am still wanting to know if my design is the way everyone else designs their system or not as I was all alone in this. I work for an electric company, but these guys design stuff for the electric grid, not for individuals like me. They have certainly looked over my design and approved it, but I still want to know what the regular folks like you and me out there do. -
Re: New userbut I still want to know what the regular folks like you and me out there do.
Regular folks hire installers... they don't design and build their own systems
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: New user
I meant regular guys like us (tech savy folks). By hiring it out, you end up paying twice the cost. So, I still want to know if my design is fine as it has been working out for me and in agreement with my expected values. Is this how you tech savy guys design your systems -- I have another one 3 times larger to implement for my brother inlaws office who has identical needs (10 hours a day monday-saturday daytime only)? Ofcourse, I will not use AIMS inverter, I will switch to outback Radian series and switch to Midnite classic 150 charge controllers instead of morningstar and instead of making my own combiner boxes, i will just buy the boxes since he can afford it. I will also buy 2 volt batteries and cables etc since he can offord them. There would be no need to make any monitoring equipment as I have made since I would outright buy them for him. -
Re: New user
It doesn't sound like Rocket science, but if it works for you, it's all good. One would assume you tested the theory on the 800 watt system extrapolated from the data you acquired and built a system around it, that's smart. What do you do between sundown and 6:00 am with 4 hours of capacity ??
As far as " hiring it out " goes, well someone has to earn a profit or we'd all starve to death. If you have the skills to do the job yourself, most would go for it. All that one has left is to find a undertaker to help you depart. -
Re: New user
I agree, it's not rocket science and that's why I did this myself, but I hadn't done any real electronics for over 20 years. Now a days, I just write software.
So, I don't understand the comment by 'vtmaps' -- "Regular folks hire installers... they don't design and build their own system")
The answer to your question; I turn off the inverter and the system automatically switches to grid. Yes, I took my data from the 800 watt system, extrapolated it to what I currently have. I just needed to make sure I wasnt doing anything abnormal since the other system I need to do is quite far away and the user is not experienced and will not be able to diagnose any problems.
The 4 hours of battery capacity are used up during the first 12 hours of the day since either air conditioning is running and the sun has already dwindled down by evening, or in winter, the kids have their electric fire places running in their rooms to make it more cozy. Either way, I end up using the same amount of energy year around during the day with solar and during the night back on the grid. The battery is just for temporary storage for cloudy moments, which can occur many times, and high inductive loads (example: when the furnace or sumb pump or garrage door opener or washing machine etc. kick in) -
Re: New user
The one thing we cannot control is Mother Nature, until last winter I never had 12 days in a row that I had so little output it wasn't even looking at the monitor, there were days I didn't even produce 1 KWH. Last year as a whole was off almost 10% over the last 5 years average.
The ones of us that have the Grid as a backup should be thankful. -
Re: New userI am still wanting to know if my design is the way everyone else designs their system or not as I was all alone in this. I work for an electric company, but these guys design stuff for the electric grid, not for individuals like me. They have certainly looked over my design and approved it, but I still want to know what the regular folks like you and me out there do.
If we put the economics aside, then the main focus is on good installation practice. If you would like to take some photos of your install, we can soon give confirmation that you have done it well, this might be helpful seeing as you are contemplating building another bigger system as well.
Around here installers charge 1 to 2 dollars a watt for labour. Thats something you might want to factor.1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar -
Re: New user
ok. i will take a photo of everything this weekend and post them. i did not place any of pv wires on the roof thru conduites since they are rated for outdoor use and cosmetics was not a concern for me. Also, the city has no permit/inspection/regulations regarding solar so i have been in the dark. But I certainly did ground the entire array and framing structure with a continous grounding wire. I used snapnrack rails and weebs for grounding and weeb straps for grounding joining sections. Thanks for your suggestion!
But, that is still not an answer to the question about design, it simply answers implementation of the design. I guess what I am asking is -- did I put the stuff together correctly. -
Re: New user
I suggest you go back and reread the thread, its all been said. Heres a summary from the first 3 pages:
-conservation issues
-battery too small for pv
-battery too small for inverter
-parrallel batterys
-incorrect assumption about battery life
-inverter too small for pv
-inverter with known reliability issues
-inverter with no grid interactivity, all or nothing
-too many charge controllers
-desulphation, forget it
Other than that, from your diagram the required elements appear to all be present. The implementation is important though.1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar -
Re: New user
Thanks for summing it up -
Re: New user
Take a look at this inverter that can run off the grid, presumably with or without batteries.
They were showing it running a fridge and other large loads at Intersolar this year.
http://www.cyboenergy.com/technologies/invertertechnology.html -
Re: New userTake a look at this inverter that can run off the grid, presumably with or without batteries.
They were showing it running a fridge and other large loads at Intersolar this year.
http://www.cyboenergy.com/technologies/invertertechnology.html
I see an inverter with may separate MPPT inputs (advantage is dubious).
I do not see where it can run off grid without batteries, only that they have both types "in the same product line".
An interesting idea, but judging by the large number of GT systems reported on here the loss claims from panel variations are not really so significant as to warrant the multiple inputs. I wonder how much the multiple inputs adds to the cost? Still this could be a solution in some cases. -
Re: New user
I can see the example of a DHW tank being powered but the surge load of a fridge???
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada -
Re: New userTake a look at this inverter that can run off the grid, presumably with or without batteries.
They were showing it running a fridge and other large loads at Intersolar this year.
http://www.cyboenergy.com/technologies/invertertechnology.html
On the web page you linked to the first diagram (with the string inverter) is wrong. Note that the solar panel on the right (nearest the inverter) has four DC connections while all the other panels have only two connections.
I am a bit confused about how these things work... some claim to have a LVD for the battery, but I don't see anywhere to connect a battery to the unit.
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: New user
One thing I still dont understand is why on this forum, you guys are telling me there are so many issues with my system, yet my system has been working flawlessly all this time. I am still reading about new systems just coming to market that are running 2 refrigerators and a microwave on solar, yet here I am, running 3 refrigerators, microwaves, dishwashers, washing machines, furnaces, air conditioners.... the whole house on my design!
I agree i do not know the battery life, but my assumption is solely based on manufacters specifactions as are all other attributes of the design. For that reason, for the last 2 years, the system has been running the entire house 12 hours a day at full load charging and discharging the batteries daily.
Regarding the issues that were summed up:
1. battery too small for pv - the system was not designed to to an off grid system, but be a grid zero system. It is supposed to used solar power as much as possible, then switch to battery until depleted, then automatically switch to the grid. This is exactly what it does. This is the reason the bank is small and the battery investment minimal.
2. battery too small for inverter - The battery bank was designed for a peek of about 19.2KW, the inverter has a peek of 18KW, each string can handle approx. 4.8KW. The system was designed to be able run with up to 3 battery string failures and has been tested as such. The constant load is approx 4 KW. The inverter is 6KW. The batteries are only used as a buffer!
3. parallel batteries - if implemented properly, there are no issues. I have monitored my system regularly and found no issues thus far. I monitor the current thru each parallel cable to see if there are significant differences using a DC clamp ammmeter.
4. inverter with no grid interactivity, all or nothing - i have an automatic transfer switch. when inverter detects battery low condition, it switches to the grid automatically without disruption of power. The inverter also has its own automatic transfer switch built in but I do not use it. I use my own.
5. too many charge controllers - i can show you other morningstar implementation where there are 15 parallel charge controllers MPPT60 installed - this right from the manufacturer.
6. desulfation , forget it - my system automatically desulfates every 60 days. The inverter also has the ability to desulfate the batteries if I so desire. I do have this wired but do not currently use it.
So when you say that all the required elements appear to be all present, did I put them together correctly? -
Re: New user
Do you know you can run a system with no fuses, no circuit breakers, no grounding, and no surge protection and it will work flawlessly for years?
Until something goes wrong.
Everything that has been said about the flaws in your system is correct. The problem is you refuse to accept them as flaws because you have been getting away with it.
1). The battery bank is too small for the PV because the PV has the potential for dumping far more current into them than they can take. It hasn't happened (yet) so it works.
2). The battery is too small for the inverter because if it was ever called upon to supply the full output demand it would go flat quickly. It hasn't happened (yet) so it works.
3). Parallel batteries are not an automatic failure, they just increase the potential for problems. It hasn't happened (yet) so it works.
4). Grid interactivity with a properly design system has zero transfer delay and does not need an external switch to do this.
5). More small charge controllers that do not truly co-ordinate will not function as well as fewer large controllers that do. The differences between them for Voltage and stage can cause problems, not absolutely will. It hasn't happened (yet) so it works.
6). There's no such thing as "automatic desulphation". An EQ charge will reduce the effects somewhat, but should be done on an as-needed basis not a regular basis as the extra Voltage involved stresses the batteries and so is best avoided. Desulphators are snake oil, by the way.
Your system hasn't been working "flawlessly" it's just been working "good enough": the flaws are built-in.
If you don't want to hear people's evaluations of your system, don't ask for them. The explanations of what is wrong or could be done better and why/how have been quite clear. -
Re: New user
Why is morningstar tech support sending me pictures of installations showing 15 MPPT 60 charge controllers connected in parallel when this forum is saying "More small charge controllers that do not truly co-ordinate will not function as well as fewer large controllers that do. The differences between them for Voltage and stage can cause problems, not absolutely will. It hasn't happened (yet) so it works." I designed everything based on manufacturers specs and included all proper protection.
Yes, I know you can run without any protection, I included all the protection. The problem I am having is there is a discrepency between this forum and what I am hearing among the power engineers here at work. These guys are designing this stuff daily, have this stuff in the industry world wide, and have expertise way beyond what I have. -
Re: New user
More small controllers tend to cost more than one large controller.
The small Morning Star has a maximum of ~70-75 VDC input, the larger ones have ~150 to 600 volt maximum input voltage (depending on model).
The fact that the controllers are not "coordinated" (end bulk, enter float) at exactly the same time) is not going to cause much in the way of problems. More or less, it just bugs the owner that the charging phases are not in synchronization.
The engineering issues with multiple parallel devices (whether controllers, battery strings, etc.)... Is that, typically, the more devices you have, the less reliable the system.
Yes, you do have redundancy (N+1 redundancy is a very common engineering solution for reliability). But, on the other hand, you have to design it to both have the ability to detect masked failures (a battery bank with 4+ parallel strings of batteries and a single open cell or cable connection is virtually undetectable in normal operation with standard hardware). So--If you have a "simple" N+1 installation and hidden failures, the system quickly become non-redundant.
Also, you have to protect against failures in redundant systems that you would not normally have if the system was not redundant. If you have a parallel battery bank and a shorted cell in a battery--That shorted cell will start drawing current from the rest of the parallel strings--Which can cause the rest of the bank to "go dead" unexpectedly, or even start a fire in the shorted cell/battery string (shorted cell overheating, or over charging other cells in the string).
And then there are the maintenance issues--If flooded cell batteries, each string is just that many more cells to check SG in and water.
As Marc mentions--Paralleled hardware/batteries need more fuses/breakers/wiring. More costs and chances for failures. If you don't do the design correctly, a short circuit can become that much more dangerous. If you have ever had a battery bank short of some sort (glowing red hot cables, all hard bolted to battery terminals and no switch/fusible link)--You would know the helpless of trying to find a large pair of cutters, fire ax or something to try and stop the current--Or just stand by and hope that a cable eventually burns out.
None of us are trying predict that bad things will happen to your system. We are just using good design guidelines to reduce the chances of failures and provide a reasonably safe system. Reasonable can be different for different people/installations. If the battery system is in a metal shed 20 feet from the home--Perhaps you can just let a (rare but possible) fire/short burn itself out. If the system is built in the middle of your home/cabin and a fire will take out the cabin and put your family in danger--Then different design guidelines may be a good idea.
We try to paper design systems that will not only work well 1-2 years in, but will still meet the operational requirements 7-10-20 year in the future.
Nobody here is looking to argue or slag somebody's system. However, if asked and we see safety or possible long term design issues--We will comment. We try to error on the side of safety and reliability--But the owner that will take suggestions here with a grain of salt. Hopefully we are helpful--But we do try to be educational.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: New userCariboocoot wrote: »...An EQ charge will reduce the effects somewhat, but should be done on an as-needed basis not a regular basis as the extra Voltage involved stresses the batteries and so is best avoided. ....
'Coot knows I strongly disagree with this statement, In my experience and looking at the specs of different flooded lead acid batteries, only Trojan doesn't recommend a regular 'maintenance'(my wording) equalizing. It should be done as a regular part of the maintenance. I think I've posted battery maintenance sheets in the past from other manufacturers, perhaps I'll find it or regenerate it so I can post it when this comes up.
There is also a corrective equalizing that 'Coot alludes to...Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: New user
Reason for not going with 600volt MPPT controller:
1. Cost
2. wanted to avoid high voltage
3. wanted redudancy
4. The cost of a single morningstar 600volt mppt controller that outputs 48v is about $1200. Although, the string's Voc is 600 vDC, the max input PV power is still 3200 watts. I would still need 3 of these controllers for my 10KW array. Below are the reasons I went with my decision:
a) three 600 volt controllers is $3600 versus cost of same three conrollers but in 150 Voc @ $400/piece = $1200. Even including additional wiring , its much much cheaper!
b) parallel wiring allows me easier trouble shooting and or eliminitaing in groups of 3 panels at a time.
c) if I used the 600 volt system, I would have 1 string of 12 panels. A break in the line or panel affects all of them.
so, where is the reliability issue?
As far as the batteries, all batteries are protected by breakers as are all equipment loads.
As far as the system not having run at full load, that is absolutely not true. The system was designed to be run with atmost 1 string of batteries with 100% load and full PV production. It has been tested and confirmed with ammeters.
I don't mind the criticism, but it most of us here at my work are wondering how others are doing their calculations. -
Re: New userOne thing I still dont understand is why on this forum, you guys are telling me there are so many issues with my system, yet my system has been working flawlessly all this time. I am still reading about new systems just coming to market that are running 2 refrigerators and a microwave on solar, yet here I am, running 3 refrigerators, microwaves, dishwashers, washing machines, furnaces, air conditioners.... the whole house on my design!
I agree i do not know the battery life, but my assumption is solely based on manufactures specifactions as are all other attributes of the design. For that reason, for the last 2 years, the system has been running the entire house 12 hours a day at full load charging and discharging the batteries daily.
Regarding the issues that were summed up:
1. battery too small for pv - the system was not designed to to an off grid system, but be a grid zero system. It is supposed to used solar power as much as possible, then switch to battery until depleted, then automatically switch to the grid. This is exactly what it does. This is the reason the bank is small and the battery investment minimal.
2. battery too small for inverter - The battery bank was designed for a peek of about 19.2KW, the inverter has a peek of 18KW, each string can handle approx. 4.8KW. The system was designed to be able run with up to 3 battery string failures and has been tested as such. The constant load is approx 4 KW. The inverter is 6KW. The batteries are only used as a buffer!
3. parallel batteries - if implemented properly, there are no issues. I have monitored my system regularly and found no issues thus far. I monitor the current thru each parallel cable to see if there are significant differences using a DC clamp ammmeter.
4. inverter with no grid interactivity, all or nothing - i have an automatic transfer switch. when inverter detects battery low condition, it switches to the grid automatically without disruption of power. The inverter also has its own automatic transfer switch built in but I do not use it. I use my own.
5. too many charge controllers - i can show you other morningstar implementation where there are 15 parallel charge controllers MPPT60 installed - this right from the manufacturer.
6. desulfation , forget it - my system automatically desulfates every 60 days. The inverter also has the ability to desulfate the batteries if I so desire. I do have this wired but do not currently use it.
So when you say that all the required elements appear to be all present, did I put them together correctly?Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
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