Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
767mrN#13
Solar Expert Posts: 35 ✭
Is there a need for a fuse or breaker between the panel/controller, controller/battery, battery/inverter, inverter/item plugged in? Or are there fuses/breakers in the controllers and inverters?
MY BAD: I did a poor job of asking the question. These panels will be on a stand. They will be moved out in the morning and taken in at night. When they are inside, they will not be connected to the battery. How does this affect the answer?
MY BAD: I did a poor job of asking the question. These panels will be on a stand. They will be moved out in the morning and taken in at night. When they are inside, they will not be connected to the battery. How does this affect the answer?
Comments
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Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
Some form of over-current protection is required on each circuit. A few (very few) units, particularly inverters, may have built-in protection, but don't count on it.
Panels will require a fuse or breaker each if there are more than two in parallel. Additional protection on the array as a whole is not necessary electrically but may be needed to meet local inspection or a breaker can be used as a convenient array disconnect.
Charge controller output to battery must have fuse or breaker on it, rated according to wiring & expected current.
Battery to each and every load (including inverter) must have appropriate protection as well. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
So I'm old and have been around for a long time...
It use to be rare to have fuses or breakers between panels and the controller, There is minimal chance of fire even if back fed. You have glass, aluminum and silicon, even the tedar backing isn't very combustible. If they aren't on your roof, your insurance company sure would like you to have protection if they are!
That said it's pretty cheap to be safe if not code compliant. You can mount the same DC rated midget fuses in some power distribution blocks (made for car audio), There is no need or danger with 2 panels. You can likely do the same between the charge controller and the battery. My code compliant(circa 2000) PowerCenter250 (made by Pulse, then Trace/Xantrex) had no breaker or fuse between the charge controller and the battery though the connections were housed in the same box as array breakers, and the breaker for the inverter.
Even with a fuse in my inverter, I do like having a breaker ahead of my inverter. You can certainly run a small system with out one, understand though, your dealing with minimal setup, I say this in reference to your 2 panel @300watt array and a 150 watt inverter...Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
The reason for having fuses between the panels and the controller is to protect the wiring if one of the say paralelled panel wires shorts, and all the others dump their load into that short instead of going to the controller. That way, your panel wires don't become fusible links. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersPNjunction wrote: »The reason for having fuses between the panels and the controller is to protect the wiring if one of the say paralelled panel wires shorts, and all the others dump their load into that short instead of going to the controller. That way, your panel wires don't become fusible links.
So, as long as panels are in series, and the wire is sized above what the panels are capable of producing (amperes), the main thing a breaker serves as is a switch.Paul -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersPNjunction wrote: »The reason for having fuses between the panels and the controller is to protect the wiring if one of the say paralelled panel wires shorts, and all the others dump their load into that short instead of going to the controller. That way, your panel wires don't become fusible links.
Nope.
Fuse/breaker between panels and controller does nothing. All that wiring should be sized for the Isc of the entire array. Thus there is no way an over-current condition can exist here, even if the controller input becomes a dead short.
The fuses/breakers on individual panel strings is to protect against a panel short where it goes from being a power source to being a conductor. Thus the other panels can put their full Isc into it, which may exceed the maximum current it was meant to handle as a conductor (maximum series fuse rating). -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersCariboocoot wrote: »Charge controller output to battery must have fuse or breaker on it, rated according to wiring & expected current.
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Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersI'm not clear on the reason for this. If the CC short circuits, wouldn't a fuse on/near the battery terminal be preferable?
For function the placement of the over-current protection within the circuit is not relevant. It can even be on the negative wiring. Wiring convention places it on the positive lead, and it is safest to have it as close as possible to the power source (reduces the amount of 'live' wire if something happens) but it is not always practical.
The circuit in question is described as "charge controller output to battery" but that does not mean the fuse or breaker needs to be at the controller. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersCariboocoot wrote: »For function the placement of the over-current protection within the circuit is not relevant. It can even be on the negative wiring. Wiring convention places it on the positive lead, and it is safest to have it as close as possible to the power source (reduces the amount of 'live' wire if something happens) but it is not always practical.
The circuit in question is described as "charge controller output to battery" but that does not mean the fuse or breaker needs to be at the controller.
Maybe my understanding of short circuits is wrong (very possible), but I thought that the current will travel from the battery to the shorted CC. The closer the fuse/breaker is to the battery, the less chance you have of burning up your wires and having a fire on your hands.
With that understanding (maybe wrong) I put a 40-amp circuit breaker as close to the positive terminal as possible (2-3")---this is connected to my bus bar, to which my CC is connected. I have no fuse on the wire between the CC and batteries. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersMaybe my understanding of short circuits is wrong (very possible), but I thought that the current will travel from the battery to the shorted CC. The closer the fuse/breaker is to the battery, the less chance you have of burning up your wires and having a fire on your hands.
Correct. That is what I said.With that understanding (maybe wrong) I put a 40-amp circuit breaker as close to the positive terminal as possible (2-3")---this is connected to my bus bar, to which my CC is connected. I have no fuse on the wire between the CC and batteries.
Incorrect, because you have bus bars. That means the charge controller and inverter (as well as any other DC loads) connect to the bus bars. The breaker on the battery will protect output to everything, but not to the individual circuits that branch off from the bus bars. The correct sizing here is that the breaker on the battery should be able to handle the maximum current draw of all DC loads combined. Since an inverter typically draws much more current than a charge controller puts out, if you have it sized for that the controller circuit is not protected.
With this arrangement there are in fact three circuits that need protection: battery to bus bar, bus bar to inverter, charge controller to bus bar.
An example of correct wiring:
BATTERY --00 AWG--> BUS BAR (200 Amp circuit, requires appropriate fuse/breaker)
BUS BAR --00 AWG--> INVERTER (200 Amp circuit, requires appropriate fuse/breaker)
BUS BAR --10 AWG--> CHARGE CONTROLLER (30 Amp circuit, requires appropriate fuse/breaker) -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
How does all this change due to my temporary setup? I did a poor job of asking the question. These panels will be on a stand. They will be moved out in the morning and taken in at night. When they are inside, they will not be connected to the battery. How does this affect the answer? -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersHow does all this change due to my temporary setup? I did a poor job of asking the question. These panels will be on a stand. They will be moved out in the morning and taken in at night. When they are inside, they will not be connected to the battery. How does this affect the answer?
It doesn't.
When the system is active if something goes wrong you want fuses to blow or breakers to trip. Problems do not occur on systems that are shut down anyway. So whether it is a permanent installation or a mobile one there needs to be protection against faults. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
767mrN#13,
This is only my opinion. But, whether the system is on a permanently mounted structure, or if it is on a portable structure, I would still wire it properly, with appropriate sized fuses - if that is your question?
I am having a guy come over today and set a pole mount for my solar array. This will be semi-permanent, as I rent this home. But, I am going to make sure I have proper sized breakers installed, where required, to protect my investment.Paul -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersThese panels will be on a stand. They will be moved out in the morning and taken in at night. When they are inside, they will not be connected to the battery.
It's killing me to know. If I may ask, why would you want / have to move them out during the day and bring them in every night?Paul -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
Cariboocoot, sorry if I'm just dense. I'm just trying to understand the theory behind putting an additional fuse/breaker between the CC and bus bar. Where would the current come from if not the batteries? Wouldn't a battery breaker be sufficient to protect the wires in the CC-bus bar circuit?
My 40-amp breaker is between the batteries and positive bus bar, using roughly 2 inches of 4 gauge wire.
I have a 45-amp charge controller. I plan on getting a total of four panels, after which my max current in unusual conditions will be ~40 amps (rated Imp is 8.47 per panel, but I've seen as high as 10 from one of them). Wire from combiner box to CC to battery bus bar will be 8 gauge, more than enough for 40 amps.
I do plan on putting an easily replaced fuse in the battery bus bar to inverter circuit. Both of my inverters have built-in fuses, but one of them is a real PITA to replace (soldered in).
Circuit protection has been one of the more challenging things to wrap my head around while building my system, there's a lot of divergent information out there, not to mention a bewildering array of fuses and breakers. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers767mrN#13,
This is only my opinion. But, whether the system is on a permanently mounted structure, or if it is on a portable structure, I would still wire it properly, with appropriate sized fuses - if that is your question?
Agree with this. Main problem is determining what "properly" is. LOL -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersIt's killing me to know. If I may ask, why would you want / have to move them out during the day and bring them in every night?
This is only going to be used if there is a short/medium/long term power outage. I'm probably being overly cautions, and I might just leave them there, but it is to secure the system. If the panels are up on the house, someone will have a hard time crawling up there and removing them with you sleeping inside. Our panels will be on stand on the ground. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersCariboocoot, sorry if I'm just dense. I'm just trying to understand the theory behind putting an additional fuse/breaker between the CC and bus bar. Where would the current come from if not the batteries? Wouldn't a battery breaker be sufficient to protect the wires in the CC-bus bar circuit?
My 40-amp breaker is between the batteries and positive bus bar, using roughly 2 inches of 4 gauge wire.
I have a 45-amp charge controller. I plan on getting a total of four panels, after which my max current in unusual conditions will be ~40 amps (rated Imp is 8.47 per panel, but I've seen as high as 10 from one of them). Wire from combiner box to CC to battery bus bar will be 8 gauge, more than enough for 40 amps.
I do plan on putting an easily replaced fuse in the battery bus bar to inverter circuit. Both of my inverters have built-in fuses, but one of them is a real PITA to replace (soldered in).
Circuit protection has been one of the more challenging things to wrap my head around while building my system, there's a lot of divergent information out there, not to mention a bewildering array of fuses and breakers.
Wouldn't the manufacturer put fuses in the converter and invertor? -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersWouldn't the manufacturer put fuses in the converter and invertor?
You should always fuse your inverter. As I have learned on this forum, line protection is just that, to protect the wires from overheating and burning. Fuses or breakers are to make sure the circuit is broken prior to the wires becoming a fire hazard and burning down your home.
Look at the attached PDF. It is for a Midnite Kid controller. I have one of these units. As you can see, it has three internal fuses on the unit, for the input (solar array) and the battery bank. Both are 30 ampere fuses. However, the diagram still shows to add inline protection on the circuits. Personally, my life and the lives of my family are worth a heck of a lot more than the cost of a fuse or breaker.
For the record, I run breakers (and wire) large enough to handle more than the array could send to the controller. I also have a breaker in between the controller and the battery bank. That way, no matter what happens, the wires will not burn, because there will never be more amperes sent through either leg (array -> controller and controller -> battery bank) than they can manage.Paul -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
Some inverters have built-in fuses. Most do not. The reason makers 'leave them out' is because every system is different; they can't know in advance exactly how their unit will be used. They do, however, supply a set of instructions with recommendations.Cariboocoot, sorry if I'm just dense. I'm just trying to understand the theory behind putting an additional fuse/breaker between the CC and bus bar. Where would the current come from if not the batteries? Wouldn't a battery breaker be sufficient to protect the wires in the CC-bus bar circuit?
Here's the thing: you have one breaker protecting two circuits.
Let's say they are identical in current potential (which is highly unlikely). Charge controller shorts, breaker trips, invert goes down as well. Now that may be interpreted as a good thing because you've just been alerted that something is wrong by the sudden outage. You won't know what, though, and resetting the breaker will only cause it to trip again. Now suppose it is the inverter that shorts and kills all power. Again you don't know where, but this time you have the added disadvantage that the charge controller is no longer working either; the batteries that just got hit with a massive current demand that cause the breaker to trip are depleted and not getting better.
Now most of the time the inverter current will be much higher than the controller current, with different size wires. With one breaker if the controller shorts the wires to it can heat up and burn before the breaker trips because the breaker has to supply full inverter current; it is much larger than the current on the controller circuit. Again if the inverter shorts the breaker trips and everything goes down. This problem is exacerbated with additional DC loads.
We view the bus bars as an extension of the battery posts, and every circuit connected to them has its own proper sized wiring and circuit protection. But this leaves the wire from the battery to the bus bars unprotected, so an additional fuse/breaker is installed as close to the battery as possible in case the short occurs at the bus bars for example. This will be of a large enough capacity to handle all loads on the battery. Disconnecting said fuse/breaker kills all power to everything, which makes it safer for diagnosis and repair.
Things do get confusing when circuits branch off. Think of it like this: your household outlet has a breaker on it at the main box. You plug multiple items into that outlet. Each of those may have circuit protection within them. Why? Because the current demand for that particular item is <15 Amps and the wire to it reflects this. If something goes wrong you only want that one device disconnected, you don't want it taking out the whole circuit and you certainly don't want it setting its wires alight. This is in fact the #1 cause of household fires; overloaded extension cords that go up in flames before the circuit breaker is strained (because the cords are 18 AWG and people put >10 Amps of load on them; no problem for the breaker but a real problem for the small wire). -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
Thanks Coot, I think the theory is slowing sinking into my thick head.
Looks like I have more modifications to make on my system. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersWouldn't the manufacturer put fuses in the converter and invertor?
Where would I go to find appropriate breakers or fuses? Should I get breakers or should I get fuses? -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersWhere would I go to find appropriate breakers or fuses? Should I get breakers or should I get fuses?
Depends on the system, of course.
In cases where you probably won't have to shut things down often fuses can be cheaper, but you may still need a disconnect. Breakers are nice because they can do both at once, unless you have a moron for an electrical inspector who wants a disconnect as well as a breaker.
So ... Here we go back to our host's site to look at the range of over-current protection devices:
http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1.html
As I said the system will make a difference in what you choose: Voltage as well as current plays a part in the selection. Some items are only listed to 48 Volts, and that does not mean they will work on a 48 Volt system (which runs at 60+ Volts and can have array Voc over 100). -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
This is going to be a mobile system like the one you'd take camping. There won't be any inspectors. Once I figure out what to get and where to get them, I'll just plug them into the system.
This will be a 12 volt system with a pair of 6 volt batteries. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakers
Lots of fuses and breakers available for 12V systems.
I used standard blade fuses at first, using a fuse holder like this, but folks here warned me off them. I still use one on a small, separate battery circuit. Maybe not perfect, but these are widely used in RVs, automobiles, boats, etc. Good up to 30 amps.
On my battery I use a 40-amp Bussmann breaker like this. It doesn't have a manual switch, so thinking about switching to a Midnite breaker. I plan on putting these breakers on all of my circuits (CC-batt, batt-inverter, batt-DC loads).
I also have a Blue Sea marine switch between the panels and charge controller for easy disconnect. Since I only have two panels at the moment, they are not fused. When I get four, I'll put a Midnite breaker on each one in the combiner box.
I've also looked at these breakers, more expensive than Midnite breakers but easier to install. I believe ANL fuses are also considered OK for solar power systems. You can get ANL fuse holders at a lot of car audio places or online.
Avoid AC breakers, which are what you'll find in big box stores. Square D are an exception, they're DC rated. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersOn my battery I use a 40-amp Bussmann breaker like this. It doesn't have a manual switch, so thinking about switching to a Midnite breaker.
Those breakers can be ordered from electrical supply companies as Type I, Type II, or Type III breakers. (Not sure what NAWS specifically offers though.)
Type I - The breaker automatically resets itself, as frequently as necessary.
Type II - The breaker will only reset once power has been removed from it and reapplied.
Type III - Manual reset only, by pressing a small button on the breaker.
I prefer Type III for most applications.Paul -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersThere won't be any inspectors.
Just always please keep in mind, safety first.Paul -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersLots of fuses and breakers available for 12V systems.
I used standard blade fuses at first, using a fuse holder like this, but folks here warned me off them. I still use one on a small, separate battery circuit. Maybe not perfect, but these are widely used in RVs, automobiles, boats, etc. Good up to 30 amps.
On my battery I use a 40-amp Bussmann breaker like this. It doesn't have a manual switch, so thinking about switching to a Midnite breaker. I plan on putting these breakers on all of my circuits (CC-batt, batt-inverter, batt-DC loads).
I also have a Blue Sea marine switch between the panels and charge controller for easy disconnect. Since I only have two panels at the moment, they are not fused. When I get four, I'll put a Midnite breaker on each one in the combiner box.
I've also looked at these breakers, more expensive than Midnite breakers but easier to install. I believe ANL fuses are also considered OK for solar power systems. You can get ANL fuse holders at a lot of car audio places or online.
Avoid AC breakers, which are what you'll find in big box stores. Square D are an exception, they're DC rated.
Many thanks. Showing me what you have is very much appreciated as I can actually see what one looks like. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersCariboocoot wrote: »Depends on the system, of course.
In cases where you probably won't have to shut things down often fuses can be cheaper, but you may still need a disconnect. Breakers are nice because they can do both at once, unless you have a moron for an electrical inspector who wants a disconnect as well as a breaker.
So ... Here we go back to our host's site to look at the range of over-current protection devices:
http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1.html
As I said the system will make a difference in what you choose: Voltage as well as current plays a part in the selection. Some items are only listed to 48 Volts, and that does not mean they will work on a 48 Volt system (which runs at 60+ Volts and can have array Voc over 100).
So if I've got it, I'll be one between the panels and controller and between the controller and invertor. And, yes, I'll be checking with the hosts of this site as their sponsorship needs to be supported! -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersSo if I've got it, I'll be one between the panels and controller and between the controller and invertor. And, yes, I'll be checking with the hosts of this site as their sponsorship needs to be supported!
It should be one between the controller and battery, then one between battery and inverter.
Panels to controller is the circuit least likely to need any kind of over-current protection. -
Re: Do solar panel setups need fuses or breakersThose breakers can be ordered from electrical supply companies as Type I, Type II, or Type III breakers. (Not sure what NAWS specifically offers though.)
Type I - The breaker automatically resets itself, as frequently as necessary.
Type II - The breaker will only reset once power has been removed from it and reapplied.
Type III - Manual reset only, by pressing a small button on the breaker.
I prefer Type III for most applications.
These breakers are a very reasonably priced solution to circuit protection, one that I rarely see mentioned. I think I paid ~$5 locally for mine. They do require ring terminals to attach wire to them, though. I prefer compression screw terminals, just makes things easier, especially with thick wire.
My understanding is the Midnite breakers have compression screw terminals. If I'm wrong, hopefully someone will correct me.
I have an in-line ANL fuse holder like this, though I'm not currently using it. It uses compression screw terminals, mine accepts up to 4 ga I think.
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